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Old 01-19-2010, 04:27 PM   #18301
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Originally Posted by Luppi Stefano View Post
Hi guys!
Exotek conversion, requires special set-ups to make better?
Requires a set-up more different from the original TC?
thanks
Not really, I suggest the A.Moore IIC set up for rubber tires. This works pretty well. Adjust as needed
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Old 01-19-2010, 04:50 PM   #18302
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Not really, I suggest the A.Moore IIC set up for rubber tires. This works pretty well. Adjust as needed
Thanks
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Old 01-20-2010, 02:41 AM   #18303
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Thanks very much, Korey






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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
I think I posted this a LONG time ago, but I'll be happy to post again.

Front: inside to outside holes

#4 on TC arms = #2 on old arms
#3 on TC arms
#2 on TC arms = #1 on old arms
#1 on TC arms

Rear: inside to outside holes

#5 on TC arms = #3 on old arms
#4 on TC arms
#3 on TC arms = #2 on old arms
#2 on TC arms
#1 on TC arms = #1 on old arms

The positions without an equivalent position on the older arms are "inbetweeners" Hope that helps!

-Korey
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Old 01-20-2010, 02:53 AM   #18304
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Originally Posted by billythekid View Post
Thanks very much, Korey
Anytime
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Old 01-20-2010, 03:04 AM   #18305
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Originally Posted by decibels View Post
I really like this setup whenever i change it sometimes the car feels better but it is slow. I also run slightly lower roll centres only .5mm to 1mm under toe blocks all round.
0.5mm or 1mm under toe blocks really kill your corner speed. Better stick to 1.5mm.
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Old 01-20-2010, 04:05 AM   #18306
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Originally Posted by jarkkom View Post
0.5mm or 1mm under toe blocks really kill your corner speed. Better stick to 1.5mm.
No not really because the alloy rear deck is extremely stiff giving corner speed and the 3mm top deck is also very stiff giving alot of corner speed!! but when i can run 1.5mm then the car is really good to but it depends on the grip and conditions.
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Old 01-20-2010, 08:48 AM   #18307
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
If you take the upper bulkheads and the shock towers together, and put them on the cyclone TC they work fine. The Cyclone TC upper bulkheads were beefed up, but when they added material, they had to move the shock tower mounting location 2mm higher. To counteract that, we use the shock towers that are 2mm lower so the overall height is the same as the moorespeed edition.

So... just for ease of reference:

Moorespeed upper bulkheads + moorsespeed shock towers (and older cyclone shock towers) = stock geometry

Cyclone TC upper bullheads + Cyclone TC shock towers = Stock geometry

Moorespeed upper bulkheads + cyclone TC towers = 2mm lower than stock geometry.

Note: I have heard this can have some benefits in super high traction conditions, but I have never tried it personally. It would also allow you to lower your body more for foam tire carpet racing, but even the stock stuff is pretty low as it is.

As far as everything else, everything else can transfer over. The diff from the moorespeec can go into the TC, but it isn't anywhere near as good as the prospec diff that comes in the cyclone TC. You can't mix parts between the differentials though.

Arms, knuckles, caster blocks, rear hubs, hinge pins, chassis, upper deck, ect... all transfer over.

Hope that helps some

-Korey
thanks korey
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Old 01-20-2010, 09:26 AM   #18308
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thanks korey
That is awesome explanation as usual Korey!!
Thank you for your great help.
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Old 01-20-2010, 01:32 PM   #18309
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Can someone please post some pics of the front end mod of using a ff toeblock as a fr (would like to see how trimming is needed for the belt to clear). I have a moorespeed car running it in 17.5 rubber tire carpet on a high bite suface and I have done everthing possible to calm the streering down and make the car less twitchy and nothing has worked ecept putting on a dna body, so I thought I would try the front end mod but would like to see it first. Thanks, Greg.
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Old 01-20-2010, 01:36 PM   #18310
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I'm wanting to know what effect the front toe block has on handling. Obviously you can set your actual toe independent of this, so the block changes the sweep of the arms.
The reason I ask is that I currently only have a 2.0 or 2.5 degree block available, and almost ALL of the set-up's I have seen are either 1.0 or 1.5 degrees.
Also, for the spacers under the toe blocks, does everyone just use normal spacers (i.e. washer) or plates?
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Old 01-20-2010, 02:00 PM   #18311
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The front toe block adjusts front arm sweep. Larger amounts of sweep (like 2.0 or 2.5 deg) will give the car less initial steering, but more through the middle and exit. Generally it makes the car feel a little softer on the track. Smaller amounts of sweep (0.0-1.5 deg) will generally give more initial turn in, but less steering through the middle and exit of the corner. Basically feels a little stiffer on the track.
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Old 01-20-2010, 04:54 PM   #18312
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Fantastic. Thaks for that Korey.
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Old 01-20-2010, 05:44 PM   #18313
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anyone have any extra pro spec ball diffs they wanna get rid of?

lmk im looking for one thanks
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Old 01-20-2010, 06:00 PM   #18314
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Originally Posted by kriiiss View Post
anyone have any extra pro spec ball diffs they wanna get rid of?

lmk im looking for one thanks
I found that the Yokomo BD4 diffs work exceedingly well (and are fairly indestructible). they are a 40 tooth pulley in place of the 39 for the Cyclone, but by using the 17 tooth pulley from the 3Racing kit along with the amended belts for the 39/18 arrangement you get a nice smooth drivetrain with just the right amount of tension but with a easy 2.353:1 ratio.

This is what I use and works a treat (fed up with HB diffs melting)
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Old 01-20-2010, 06:39 PM   #18315
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Bit of a long shot here guys, but i've found i am using my Cyclone more for drifting than racing.

I have fitted softer springs and obviously drift tyres, the car feels great but would prefer the rear to be a little more stable through transitions.


I've read as many drift setup guides that i can find, tried more and less camber in various degrees (both on the front and rear), but still i would prefer slightly more stability from the rear.

I am under the impression that if i increase the caster this will give more camber the more the springs are compressed.
Is this correct?


I realise that this is probably the opposite to what 99% of Cyclone users want to achieve, but any other thoughts, ideas or advice on what you think would be a good drift setup for this chassis would be greatly appreciated.



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