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Old 01-10-2010, 03:15 AM   #18211
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Originally Posted by cherry2blost View Post
Good that's just as well because I truly believe that the 'S' is the ideal platform for newbies to start out on, less fragile than a Tamiya and perfectly adequate for racing as well as bashing. Add the hop ups as and when and you got a fully fledged race car on your hands.
hi cherry2blost you got PM
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Old 01-10-2010, 03:30 AM   #18212
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Not yet I ain't lol
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:07 AM   #18213
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hi all friend

is it the higher ratio number give more torque than lower ratio number?

can anyone clarify this?

thanks
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:09 AM   #18214
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new to HPI and hotbodies products.

how do u guys differentiate the spring rate of hpi springs ?
- i see them label in coils. so does that means more coils is much more stiffer ?
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:20 AM   #18215
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Originally Posted by speedzer View Post
new to HPI and hotbodies products.

how do u guys differentiate the spring rate of hpi springs ?
- i see them label in coils. so does that means more coils is much more stiffer ?

Hope this helps, it is done on 'weight' of springs.

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www.racersinexile.org.uk | 'Official Certified' UK/Euro Importer for the Hobbywing XERUN Series Equipment We ship the world !!!| Quote code 'cherry' for 10% discount on our Web Store.
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:22 AM   #18216
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Originally Posted by padillo View Post
hi all friend

is it the higher ratio number give more torque than lower ratio number?

can anyone clarify this?

thanks
Are we talking about gearing, or motor wind?
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www.racersinexile.org.uk | 'Official Certified' UK/Euro Importer for the Hobbywing XERUN Series Equipment We ship the world !!!| Quote code 'cherry' for 10% discount on our Web Store.
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:36 AM   #18217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedzer View Post
new to HPI and hotbodies products.

how do u guys differentiate the spring rate of hpi springs ?
- i see them label in coils. so does that means more coils is much more stiffer ?
also use White Gold Pink Silver Blue only !
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:54 AM   #18218
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also use White Gold Pink Silver Blue only !

Now that's interesting because I use #6753 on the Front with the medium 3Racing sway bar and #6751 on the rear with no sway bar on high grip carpet.
With 55 weight AE oil and 3 hole 3Racing pistons.

Handles like a dream very stable.
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www.racersinexile.org.uk | 'Official Certified' UK/Euro Importer for the Hobbywing XERUN Series Equipment We ship the world !!!| Quote code 'cherry' for 10% discount on our Web Store.
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Old 01-10-2010, 05:22 AM   #18219
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Rc Market is wright. In the team over here inthe uk anyway we always run the pro 4 springs (come with the kit) White being the hardest we'd run and blue being the softest. Also on carpet most of the team run muchmore 450 and sometimes 500 at the front. Kit roll bars are fine.

So generally on carpet we run, hpi gold/silver or hpi pink/silver. With 450 oil. 1.4 front roll bar. 1.2 rear roll bar. Always with 3 hole 1.1 pistons.

Any questions anyone has I'll answer them for you the best I can.

Jonny
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Old 01-10-2010, 05:33 AM   #18220
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Rc Market is wright. In the team over here inthe uk anyway we always run the pro 4 springs (come with the kit) White being the hardest we'd run and blue being the softest. Also on carpet most of the team run muchmore 450 and sometimes 500 at the front. Kit roll bars are fine.

So generally on carpet we run, hpi gold/silver or hpi pink/silver. With 450 oil. 1.4 front roll bar. 1.2 rear roll bar. Always with 3 hole 1.1 pistons.

Any questions anyone has I'll answer them for you the best I can.

Jonny
Isn't it amazing that everyone has a particular preference in setting up a car, I for one have never been able to get a rear roll bar to work on any car and have always run springs that are more akin to nails. Think my problem tends to be I am a little to 'trigger happy' with the throttle and love a car that turns in very early.

OK for the sake of experimentation (and my curiosity) would one of the UK drivers post their ideal setup for Carpet Wars and I will replicate it and see if I can improve my driving. There's a gold star for the one who comes up with the best one lol.
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Old 01-10-2010, 06:26 AM   #18221
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Originally Posted by cherry2blost View Post
Are we talking about gearing, or motor wind?
sorry i mean gearing
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Old 01-10-2010, 06:48 AM   #18222
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Originally Posted by padillo View Post
sorry i mean gearing
Maybe someone with a little more 'knowlege' of these things may like to correct me but I will give my own understandings.

Each brushless motor has a certain amount of power to hand as well as a certain KV (revolutions per Volt).

This can be adjusted slightly by amending the timing, more = more revs but less torque (power) less supposedly the opposite.

Brushless motors have oodles more available power than brushed motors.

Gearing...more gearing generally means higher top speed (not so certain these days with Adv Timing ESC's). If you have a wide open track with fast corners then you can either time the motor or gear it up. Gearing up on a complex track begins to use the Torque of the motor more and each has a sweet spot before there is no return from additional gearing, you will begin to feel the car become sluggish coming out of corners. If this occurs it is time to back off to the spot where you have maximum top speed on the straight while not losing anything in the corners.

So yes, gearing up will USE the torque of the motor but as stated only to a point, this is where most of us buy a cheap IR temp gun (10 on fleabay), we tend to gear the car toward a preferred temperature after a 5 minute run, I personally head for 130 degrees Fahrenheit on my Phantom ION 10.5, well within its design spec, and probably not using ALL the available gearing but as I can't afford new motors I prefer to err on the side of caution. Also if you 'undergear' a brushless there have been occurances of the motor blowing as they do like to be pushed quite hard and should not be 'revving out' for long periods.

I believe that it is a case of suck it and see and that the best way is to get onto your local track on practice days and just run and run until you hit the sweet spot, make a note of it and come back to that for that particular layout.

A lot of this changed with the ADV Timing ESC's as these are designed to allow the use of lower gearing in the corners (punch) while giving good overall top end speed.

Hope it helps flames welcome lol.
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www.racersinexile.org.uk | 'Official Certified' UK/Euro Importer for the Hobbywing XERUN Series Equipment We ship the world !!!| Quote code 'cherry' for 10% discount on our Web Store.
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Old 01-10-2010, 07:17 AM   #18223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cherry2blost View Post
Maybe someone with a little more 'knowlege' of these things may like to correct me but I will give my own understandings.

Each brushless motor has a certain amount of power to hand as well as a certain KV (revolutions per Volt).

This can be adjusted slightly by amending the timing, more = more revs but less torque (power) less supposedly the opposite.

Brushless motors have oodles more available power than brushed motors.

Gearing...more gearing generally means higher top speed (not so certain these days with Adv Timing ESC's). If you have a wide open track with fast corners then you can either time the motor or gear it up. Gearing up on a complex track begins to use the Torque of the motor more and each has a sweet spot before there is no return from additional gearing, you will begin to feel the car become sluggish coming out of corners. If this occurs it is time to back off to the spot where you have maximum top speed on the straight while not losing anything in the corners.

So yes, gearing up will USE the torque of the motor but as stated only to a point, this is where most of us buy a cheap IR temp gun (10 on fleabay), we tend to gear the car toward a preferred temperature after a 5 minute run, I personally head for 130 degrees Fahrenheit on my Phantom ION 10.5, well within its design spec, and probably not using ALL the available gearing but as I can't afford new motors I prefer to err on the side of caution. Also if you 'undergear' a brushless there have been occurances of the motor blowing as they do like to be pushed quite hard and should not be 'revving out' for long periods.

I believe that it is a case of suck it and see and that the best way is to get onto your local track on practice days and just run and run until you hit the sweet spot, make a note of it and come back to that for that particular layout.

A lot of this changed with the ADV Timing ESC's as these are designed to allow the use of lower gearing in the corners (punch) while giving good overall top end speed.

Hope it helps flames welcome lol.
very informative..thanks friend
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Old 01-10-2010, 12:45 PM   #18224
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Hi guys,
I'm after a starting point for an outdoor foam setup. I have the old Surikarn, and run 13.5 with Lipo.
I currently also run a diff in the rear and a spool in the front, as I was running rubber until a month ago. I read somewhere that spools aren't so good on foam. I have a sway bar in the front, but not the rear. Is it common to run one in the rear?
I have a fair supply of foams in 30, 32, 35, 37, and 40 shore. Not quite sure where to begin there, at present I use 32 front and 30 rear. We aren't allowed to use tyre additive.
I can't get to the track often for practice, and there is a big event coming up, so i'm keen to get a starting point to work with.
Thanks for your help
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:53 PM   #18225
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Hara confirms there's a new touring car in the works:

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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