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Hot Bodies Cyclone

Old 01-07-2010, 04:17 PM
  #18181  
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Originally Posted by cheehtae
anyone knows the thickness of 3racing chassis? is it to flexy?

2.6mm according to my vernier, to be honest I have had people at my club rubbishing my car saying I need washers under the top deck screws because my car is too stiff. Make of that what you will but I don't see it as being to Flexy?

Hope it helps

C2B

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Old 01-07-2010, 04:23 PM
  #18182  
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Originally Posted by cherry2blost
2.6mm according to my vernier, to be honest I have had people at my club rubbishing my car saying I need washers under the top deck screws because my car is too stiff. Make of that what you will but I don't see it as being to Flexy?

Hope it helps

C2B

ur car looks good. are ur bulkheads the most current ones same with the shock mount.
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Old 01-07-2010, 04:31 PM
  #18183  
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Originally Posted by GCT69
ur car looks good. are ur bulkheads the most current ones same with the shock mount.
This picture may help more, you must remember that this was based on the Cyclone-S, so has all the 3Racing hop ups for the 'S' version, mine does not have the camber links on the bulkheads mine are on the shock towers, gives you less scope for adjustment, but likewise less chance to screw something up lol.
Also if you look closely we have used some 13mm Heatshrink placed over the outputs on the diffs, if you put this OVER the purple alloy rings it makes the plastic diff outputs almost unbreakable. Also keeps out the dirt from the bearing.

Also using the Yokomo (40T) ball diffs front and rear stops the 'melting' diff as was happening to us on a regular basis as the stock 'S' diffs undid themselves and then slipped to death in a pool of molten plastic. Yokomo ones are bullet proof, mixed with Ceramic 2.4mm balls they are ideal and pretty much maintenance free.

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Old 01-07-2010, 04:32 PM
  #18184  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
It's a hand modification a few of us have been doing. You have to drill 2 new holes for a standard toe block, so go in place of the pivot block. You also need to grind the toe block that you are using to allow clearance for the belt, and for the steering links. -Korey
Sorry to ask, but what degree toe in block is it plz

You also mentioon you use White springs in your set up, are these standard white ones, or the Hara springs

Cheers Malc
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Old 01-07-2010, 06:15 PM
  #18185  
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On this setup I'm using the 1.5 deg block FF, and FR. So no arm sweep, just a little wider.

The white springs are just the normal HPI Pro 4 springs. I think the Hara springs are designated as grey, could be wrong on that though.

-Korey
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Old 01-08-2010, 01:47 AM
  #18186  
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Default Tweak:

Hi Guys,

Loads of interesting stuff as always.. keep it up.

Okay, I ve got a problem with a tweaked chassis , the front seems to be twisted any ideas what I can do? I ve tried loosening the screws then pressing down but there is still some twist. I ve checked all the screws but not the bulk head yet.


cheers
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Old 01-08-2010, 01:57 AM
  #18187  
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Originally Posted by michael.branth
Hi Guys,

Loads of interesting stuff as always.. keep it up.

Okay, I ve got a problem with a tweaked chassis , the front seems to be twisted any ideas what I can do? I ve tried loosening the screws then pressing down but there is still some twist. I ve checked all the screws but not the bulk head yet.


cheers

Loosen ALL the screws that go into METAL (on topdeck AND underside of car) just 1/2 a turn or so then grab the front and rear, give it a bloody good twist left to right and then right to left, fixes most of my problems except bent alloy parts (change em).
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Old 01-08-2010, 07:50 AM
  #18188  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
On this setup I'm using the 1.5 deg block FF, and FR. So no arm sweep, just a little wider.


-Korey

Just wondering what the difference is between the 1.5 and the 2.0 deg. mod is ?
I know the 2.0 blocks give a wider thread so would the 1.5 deg blocks give a little more turn in ?

Thanks.
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Old 01-08-2010, 08:26 AM
  #18189  
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Default TC Topdeck

Hey,

Does anyone know if the main topdeck for the cyclone tc is stiffer than the wce's cos i thought i heard someone say u would hav to cut the tc's to hav the same flex?

Is it mainly for outdoor racing that you cut the topdeck to get more flex or would it also help for indoor racing when the grip is high,

any ideas?
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Old 01-08-2010, 08:26 AM
  #18190  
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Default Cyclone Sport

TowerHobbies now set the Sport version Kit or RTR, as discontinued.
Anyone knows if HB will remove car from sales or just Tower won't offer it anymore. (TC is still available though).
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Old 01-08-2010, 08:38 AM
  #18191  
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Originally Posted by thejo3
TowerHobbies now set the Sport version Kit or RTR, as discontinued.
Anyone knows if HB will remove car from sales or just Tower won't offer it anymore. (TC is still available though).
Maybe there's something else in the pipeline, it is becoming increasingly harder to source 'S' specific parts from 3Racing too these days.

It's a shame too because the 'S' is an awesome car for a newbie to cut their teeth on.
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Old 01-08-2010, 01:34 PM
  #18192  
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Originally Posted by jag88
Just wondering what the difference is between the 1.5 and the 2.0 deg. mod is ?
I know the 2.0 blocks give a wider thread so would the 1.5 deg blocks give a little more turn in ?

Thanks.
The suspension blocks change a bunch of stuff actually. Pivot point geometry, shock position, camber link length, steering link length, and overall width. Generally when we use the standard blocks, this makes the front roll more and a lot faster producing more steering. Wider blocks will make the car smoother in general and roll a little less, giving less overall steering.

Now thats a pretty general description. Usually with the 1.5 and 2.0 deg blocks I use a thin hex up front to try and maintain the same overall width, but change the overall geometry.

-Korey
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Old 01-08-2010, 02:25 PM
  #18193  
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Can anyone tell me the largest 48dp spur I can get on the TC with the BL motor mount please.
Cheers Malc
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Old 01-08-2010, 03:58 PM
  #18194  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
The suspension blocks change a bunch of stuff actually. Pivot point geometry, shock position, camber link length, steering link length, and overall width. Generally when we use the standard blocks, this makes the front roll more and a lot faster producing more steering. Wider blocks will make the car smoother in general and roll a little less, giving less overall steering.

Now thats a pretty general description. Usually with the 1.5 and 2.0 deg blocks I use a thin hex up front to try and maintain the same overall width, but change the overall geometry.

-Korey

I'm running the 2 deg mod in the front and found that it helped with keeping the rear under the car. I guess that it took just enough out of the front so that rear could hook up. We're running Jaco blues, so that doesn't help. I haven't tried the thinner hex, sounds like that could be used for some fine tuning.
As always, thanks for your time. I think you and Hiro are the only reason I'm still running this car.
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Old 01-09-2010, 04:45 AM
  #18195  
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Hi cyclone friend

i have few question

1. what suitable ratio range for my cyclone (2.4375 FDR) if i use 3.5T motor (for use in asphalt large track)?

2. for one way 18t centre pulley, which side i have to put?..both one way?

thanks
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