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Old 01-07-2010, 01:23 PM   #18181
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Originally Posted by goots View Post
Hi guys Im new to the cyclone and am looking at several setups. Im confused about the roll center and squat settings. Im trying out Barry Bakers setup and it says use 1.5 mm shims under the suspension toe-blocks. Does that mean I keep the stock 2mm shims under the pivot blocks also? Or is it 1.5mm all around.
He used 1.5mm under all the blocks. Sometimes we will designate the blocks as FF, FR, RF, and RR. FF being the front toe block, FR being the "pivot block". RF being the Rear pivot block, and RR the rear toe block.

Hope that makes sense.

-Korey
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Old 01-07-2010, 01:51 PM   #18182
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Hey,

Thanks for the explanation Korey. The grip roll usually happens through the mid section of the sweeper. I run 1mm all round under the hingpin blocks and 4mm under the camber links.

Some peope say that lowering the roll center creates more roll in the car therefore using the tyre less and stopping traction roll

Some people say that raising the roll center creates less roll which prevents the car rolling too far and grip rolling

any ideas?
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Old 01-07-2010, 02:41 PM   #18183
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Hey,

Thanks for the explanation Korey. The grip roll usually happens through the mid section of the sweeper. I run 1mm all round under the hingpin blocks and 4mm under the camber links.

Some peope say that lowering the roll center creates more roll in the car therefore using the tyre less and stopping traction roll

Some people say that raising the roll center creates less roll which prevents the car rolling too far and grip rolling

any ideas?
It depends. Typically when you use a higher roll center it can make the car traction roll if using too stiff of a spring. That usually happens at the beginning of the corner of if you change direction really fast.

Lower roll centers have peak grip later in the corner (kind of like what you have going on), especially when combined with too soft of a spring.

Maybe go back to 1.5mm suspension mount shims up front? You can also widen you car too. Maybe add a spacer or something on the wheel hex hub? That should help the car be more stable and less tippy.

-Korey
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Old 01-07-2010, 03:08 PM   #18184
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Thanks guys. So would there be any reason to play with squat settings? Just curious to know what it does
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Old 01-07-2010, 03:46 PM   #18185
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anyone knows the thickness of 3racing chassis? is it to flexy?
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Old 01-07-2010, 04:07 PM   #18186
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Sure thing!

Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Losi 37.5 wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Camber: 2.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 1.5mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5deg FF and FR
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 6mm on a droop gauge, measured at the arm right under the outer hinge pin
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm, with 2mm gap on TC swaybar link
Front Drive: Ver 3 spool, steel drive cups, DCJ's
Wheelbase: 2.7 in front of arm, .7mm behind (this is needed when using the different suspension block modification).
Wheel Hex: thin

Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Losi 37.5 wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Long on bulkhead, short on hub (standard setup)
Shims under camber link: 3mm
Rear Toe Block: 3 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 5mm on gauge
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.2mm with 4mm gap on TC swaybar link
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard

Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck (not cut)
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: Jaco Blue
Body: Protoform Mazdaspeed 6 with HB Subaru Wing


Notes:
If you don't want to do the suspension block modification, I've found running the shock in hole #1 on the front suspension arm with the standard suspension blocks works really good too. It gives a somewhat similar feeling and is worth a try. Just combine it with a 0 deg toe block to take out the arm sweep, and use a standard wheel hex.

This setup is for a med-high grip carpet track.

Happy Racing!

-Korey
Hi Korey
Im gona start with your set up at the Birds.
1) but where do you get that suspension block mod, will i be able to get one there?
2) You say you run 37.5 oil, I guess thats losi oil, but what is the eaquivalant of MM oil please, or do you suggest I use Losi oils?
3) Do you use the black foams in the top of the shock bladder?
4) And how much rebound do you have in your shock please?

Cheers Malc
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Old 01-07-2010, 04:15 PM   #18187
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Originally Posted by TheCoolCanFanMan View Post
Hi Korey
Im gona start with your set up at the Birds.
1) but where do you get that suspension block mod, will i be able to get one there?
2) You say you run 37.5 oil, I guess thats losi oil, but what is the eaquivalant of MM oil please, or do you suggest I use Losi oils?
3) Do you use the black foams in the top of the shock bladder?
4) And how much rebound do you have in your shock please?

Cheers Malc
It's a hand modification a few of us have been doing. You have to drill 2 new holes for a standard toe block, so go in place of the pivot block. You also need to grind the toe block that you are using to allow clearance for the belt, and for the steering links.

By doing this you can adjust the width of the car from the hinge pins. If you go back a page or two, Hiro and I go more in depth on what this does for the car itself.

I use Losi oil, Hara says it's the best! I have no clue what it is equivalent to in much more oil. I've only ever used AE or Losi.

I'm running 100% rebound on that setup, and yes I do use the foams. If the car seems really edgy and such, go thicker on oil or use less rebound.

-Korey
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Old 01-07-2010, 04:17 PM   #18188
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Originally Posted by cheehtae View Post
anyone knows the thickness of 3racing chassis? is it to flexy?

2.6mm according to my vernier, to be honest I have had people at my club rubbishing my car saying I need washers under the top deck screws because my car is too stiff. Make of that what you will but I don't see it as being to Flexy?

Hope it helps

C2B

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Old 01-07-2010, 04:23 PM   #18189
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Originally Posted by cherry2blost View Post
2.6mm according to my vernier, to be honest I have had people at my club rubbishing my car saying I need washers under the top deck screws because my car is too stiff. Make of that what you will but I don't see it as being to Flexy?

Hope it helps

C2B

ur car looks good. are ur bulkheads the most current ones same with the shock mount.
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Old 01-07-2010, 04:31 PM   #18190
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ur car looks good. are ur bulkheads the most current ones same with the shock mount.
This picture may help more, you must remember that this was based on the Cyclone-S, so has all the 3Racing hop ups for the 'S' version, mine does not have the camber links on the bulkheads mine are on the shock towers, gives you less scope for adjustment, but likewise less chance to screw something up lol.
Also if you look closely we have used some 13mm Heatshrink placed over the outputs on the diffs, if you put this OVER the purple alloy rings it makes the plastic diff outputs almost unbreakable. Also keeps out the dirt from the bearing.

Also using the Yokomo (40T) ball diffs front and rear stops the 'melting' diff as was happening to us on a regular basis as the stock 'S' diffs undid themselves and then slipped to death in a pool of molten plastic. Yokomo ones are bullet proof, mixed with Ceramic 2.4mm balls they are ideal and pretty much maintenance free.

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Old 01-07-2010, 04:32 PM   #18191
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
It's a hand modification a few of us have been doing. You have to drill 2 new holes for a standard toe block, so go in place of the pivot block. You also need to grind the toe block that you are using to allow clearance for the belt, and for the steering links. -Korey
Sorry to ask, but what degree toe in block is it plz

You also mentioon you use White springs in your set up, are these standard white ones, or the Hara springs

Cheers Malc
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Old 01-07-2010, 06:15 PM   #18192
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On this setup I'm using the 1.5 deg block FF, and FR. So no arm sweep, just a little wider.

The white springs are just the normal HPI Pro 4 springs. I think the Hara springs are designated as grey, could be wrong on that though.

-Korey
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Old 01-08-2010, 01:47 AM   #18193
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Hi Guys,

Loads of interesting stuff as always.. keep it up.

Okay, I ve got a problem with a tweaked chassis , the front seems to be twisted any ideas what I can do? I ve tried loosening the screws then pressing down but there is still some twist. I ve checked all the screws but not the bulk head yet.


cheers
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Old 01-08-2010, 01:57 AM   #18194
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Hi Guys,

Loads of interesting stuff as always.. keep it up.

Okay, I ve got a problem with a tweaked chassis , the front seems to be twisted any ideas what I can do? I ve tried loosening the screws then pressing down but there is still some twist. I ve checked all the screws but not the bulk head yet.


cheers

Loosen ALL the screws that go into METAL (on topdeck AND underside of car) just 1/2 a turn or so then grab the front and rear, give it a bloody good twist left to right and then right to left, fixes most of my problems except bent alloy parts (change em).
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Old 01-08-2010, 07:50 AM   #18195
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
On this setup I'm using the 1.5 deg block FF, and FR. So no arm sweep, just a little wider.


-Korey

Just wondering what the difference is between the 1.5 and the 2.0 deg. mod is ?
I know the 2.0 blocks give a wider thread so would the 1.5 deg blocks give a little more turn in ?

Thanks.
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