Hot Bodies Cyclone
use less compund on your front tires, try that one first.
I put a new picture where I hope it is clearer fitting supports TOP.
http://yfrog.com/dzimmag047uj
Memory that must be practiced three new holes for fixing.
I hope I have been of help.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
When you take shims out, it lowers the roll center. This makes the car feel very smooth initially, but it will have more grip through the middle and exit of the corner.
-Korey
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
If you notice the front inside wheel is lifting in the corner, I would try and stiffen up the rear a bit, or stand up the rear shock. If the rear inside tire is lifting, I would stiffen the front of soften the rear a bit. That will make the roll of the car more balanced front to rear.
If the front and rear inside tires seem to lift at the same time, maybe try thicker shock oil in the front, and more shims under the camber links all around. Those have always seemed to help me smooth out the car in general and take away a little grip on carpet.
-Korey
Hi guys Im new to the cyclone and am looking at several setups. Im confused about the roll center and squat settings. Im trying out Barry Bakers setup and it says use 1.5 mm shims under the suspension toe-blocks. Does that mean I keep the stock 2mm shims under the pivot blocks also? Or is it 1.5mm all around.
Thank you for all your help guys.
Unfortunately i don't think any will work with the current stick packs i'm using as:
1/ They are fairly thick (high)
2/ The edges are rounded.
I do have some LiPo's on the way though, so once these arrive i will see if any of the solutions offered work better with those.
I find it strange though the HB offer no stick pack securing solution as standard.
Every event i've entered so far has had a restriction either on using NiMh batteries or a certain brand of batteries, as it's extremely difficult to find side by sie battery configurations these days i'd have thought a stick pack securing solution would be standard.
I suppose another alternative would be to split my current stick packs and resolder/configure them as side by side packs.
Problem then is they won't fit in all my cars.
Again though thank you to everyone for their suggestions, even if they didn't help much with the stick packs hey might well be a great solution for the LiPo's.
If anyone else is using stick packs though, it'd be great to hear how you solved the mounting solution.
Cheers
Mark
Unfortunately i don't think any will work with the current stick packs i'm using as:
1/ They are fairly thick (high)
2/ The edges are rounded.
I do have some LiPo's on the way though, so once these arrive i will see if any of the solutions offered work better with those.
I find it strange though the HB offer no stick pack securing solution as standard.
Every event i've entered so far has had a restriction either on using NiMh batteries or a certain brand of batteries, as it's extremely difficult to find side by sie battery configurations these days i'd have thought a stick pack securing solution would be standard.
I suppose another alternative would be to split my current stick packs and resolder/configure them as side by side packs.
Problem then is they won't fit in all my cars.
Again though thank you to everyone for their suggestions, even if they didn't help much with the stick packs hey might well be a great solution for the LiPo's.
If anyone else is using stick packs though, it'd be great to hear how you solved the mounting solution.
Cheers
Mark
Agno, whoa...that's a huge pinion. Your FDR must be around 4.1-4.5...
Hi guys Im new to the cyclone and am looking at several setups. Im confused about the roll center and squat settings. Im trying out Barry Bakers setup and it says use 1.5 mm shims under the suspension toe-blocks. Does that mean I keep the stock 2mm shims under the pivot blocks also? Or is it 1.5mm all around.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
Hi guys Im new to the cyclone and am looking at several setups. Im confused about the roll center and squat settings. Im trying out Barry Bakers setup and it says use 1.5 mm shims under the suspension toe-blocks. Does that mean I keep the stock 2mm shims under the pivot blocks also? Or is it 1.5mm all around.
Hope that makes sense.
-Korey
Tech Adept
Hey,
Thanks for the explanation Korey. The grip roll usually happens through the mid section of the sweeper. I run 1mm all round under the hingpin blocks and 4mm under the camber links.
Some peope say that lowering the roll center creates more roll in the car therefore using the tyre less and stopping traction roll
Some people say that raising the roll center creates less roll which prevents the car rolling too far and grip rolling
any ideas?
Thanks for the explanation Korey. The grip roll usually happens through the mid section of the sweeper. I run 1mm all round under the hingpin blocks and 4mm under the camber links.
Some peope say that lowering the roll center creates more roll in the car therefore using the tyre less and stopping traction roll
Some people say that raising the roll center creates less roll which prevents the car rolling too far and grip rolling
any ideas?
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
Hey,
Thanks for the explanation Korey. The grip roll usually happens through the mid section of the sweeper. I run 1mm all round under the hingpin blocks and 4mm under the camber links.
Some peope say that lowering the roll center creates more roll in the car therefore using the tyre less and stopping traction roll
Some people say that raising the roll center creates less roll which prevents the car rolling too far and grip rolling
any ideas?
Thanks for the explanation Korey. The grip roll usually happens through the mid section of the sweeper. I run 1mm all round under the hingpin blocks and 4mm under the camber links.
Some peope say that lowering the roll center creates more roll in the car therefore using the tyre less and stopping traction roll
Some people say that raising the roll center creates less roll which prevents the car rolling too far and grip rolling
any ideas?
Lower roll centers have peak grip later in the corner (kind of like what you have going on), especially when combined with too soft of a spring.
Maybe go back to 1.5mm suspension mount shims up front? You can also widen you car too. Maybe add a spacer or something on the wheel hex hub? That should help the car be more stable and less tippy.
-Korey
Thanks guys. So would there be any reason to play with squat settings? Just curious to know what it does
anyone knows the thickness of 3racing chassis? is it to flexy?
Sure thing!
Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Losi 37.5 wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Camber: 2.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 1.5mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5deg FF and FR
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 6mm on a droop gauge, measured at the arm right under the outer hinge pin
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm, with 2mm gap on TC swaybar link
Front Drive: Ver 3 spool, steel drive cups, DCJ's
Wheelbase: 2.7 in front of arm, .7mm behind (this is needed when using the different suspension block modification).
Wheel Hex: thin
Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Losi 37.5 wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Long on bulkhead, short on hub (standard setup)
Shims under camber link: 3mm
Rear Toe Block: 3 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 5mm on gauge
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.2mm with 4mm gap on TC swaybar link
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard
Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck (not cut)
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: Jaco Blue
Body: Protoform Mazdaspeed 6 with HB Subaru Wing
Notes:
If you don't want to do the suspension block modification, I've found running the shock in hole #1 on the front suspension arm with the standard suspension blocks works really good too. It gives a somewhat similar feeling and is worth a try. Just combine it with a 0 deg toe block to take out the arm sweep, and use a standard wheel hex.
This setup is for a med-high grip carpet track.
Happy Racing!
-Korey
Front:
Spring: HPI White
Oil: Losi 37.5 wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower, 2 on arm
Camber: 2.0 deg
Camber Link position: long
Shims under camber link: 1.5mm
Caster: 4 deg
Suspension blocks: 1.5deg FF and FR
Shims under suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 6mm on a droop gauge, measured at the arm right under the outer hinge pin
Ride height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.4mm, with 2mm gap on TC swaybar link
Front Drive: Ver 3 spool, steel drive cups, DCJ's
Wheelbase: 2.7 in front of arm, .7mm behind (this is needed when using the different suspension block modification).
Wheel Hex: thin
Rear:
Spring: HPI Silver
Oil: Losi 37.5 wt
Piston: HB 1.1mm 3 hole
Shock position: 3 on tower and 3 on arm
Camber: 1.5 deg
Camber Link Position: Long on bulkhead, short on hub (standard setup)
Shims under camber link: 3mm
Rear Toe Block: 3 deg
Shims under toe/suspension blocks: 1.5mm
Droop: 5mm on gauge
Ride Height: 5mm
Swaybar: 1.2mm with 4mm gap on TC swaybar link
Wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7 behind. 2mm in front of hub carrier, .7 behind.
Wheel hex: standard
Other:
Cut top deck
FRP Mid deck (not cut)
Steering bellcrank shim: 4mm
Tires: Jaco Blue
Body: Protoform Mazdaspeed 6 with HB Subaru Wing
Notes:
If you don't want to do the suspension block modification, I've found running the shock in hole #1 on the front suspension arm with the standard suspension blocks works really good too. It gives a somewhat similar feeling and is worth a try. Just combine it with a 0 deg toe block to take out the arm sweep, and use a standard wheel hex.
This setup is for a med-high grip carpet track.
Happy Racing!
-Korey
Im gona start with your set up at the Birds.
1) but where do you get that suspension block mod, will i be able to get one there?
2) You say you run 37.5 oil, I guess thats losi oil, but what is the eaquivalant of MM oil please, or do you suggest I use Losi oils?
3) Do you use the black foams in the top of the shock bladder?
4) And how much rebound do you have in your shock please?
Cheers Malc
Tech Champion
iTrader: (13)
Hi Korey
Im gona start with your set up at the Birds.
1) but where do you get that suspension block mod, will i be able to get one there?
2) You say you run 37.5 oil, I guess thats losi oil, but what is the eaquivalant of MM oil please, or do you suggest I use Losi oils?
3) Do you use the black foams in the top of the shock bladder?
4) And how much rebound do you have in your shock please?
Cheers Malc
Im gona start with your set up at the Birds.
1) but where do you get that suspension block mod, will i be able to get one there?
2) You say you run 37.5 oil, I guess thats losi oil, but what is the eaquivalant of MM oil please, or do you suggest I use Losi oils?
3) Do you use the black foams in the top of the shock bladder?
4) And how much rebound do you have in your shock please?
Cheers Malc
By doing this you can adjust the width of the car from the hinge pins. If you go back a page or two, Hiro and I go more in depth on what this does for the car itself.
I use Losi oil, Hara says it's the best! I have no clue what it is equivalent to in much more oil. I've only ever used AE or Losi.
I'm running 100% rebound on that setup, and yes I do use the foams. If the car seems really edgy and such, go thicker on oil or use less rebound.
-Korey