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Old 12-22-2009, 02:29 PM   #18076
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
Speed passion motor?
So does Jilles car, and I believe he run's all Orion now as of recently. So the Orion boy's got Speed Passions...
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Old 12-22-2009, 06:47 PM   #18077
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Hi guys,

I've just bought a HB Cyclone the Moore-Speed version (#66450).
Can anyone tell me how this differs from the new TC please?

Are any of the difference better, if so will they fit on the MS version?
I've checked on the HB site, but other than going through every single component in the kit there's no comparison i can see between the other Cyclone chassis's.
I have read up about the new TC and it talks about the new TC having adjustable chassis flex.

What exactly is this?
Worth having?
Is the MS chassis upgradable to this?

Any other tips, tricks or advice on this chassis also much appreciated.
It's not arrived yet, but i'm hoping it knock my Penguin chassis's Pro3 into next week


Cheers
Mark
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Old 12-22-2009, 07:09 PM   #18078
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if you got a moorespeed car, the only thing i would upgrade is to the new ball diff from TC kit.
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Old 12-22-2009, 07:14 PM   #18079
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Thanks Joe.

Do you mean #67720?
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Old 12-22-2009, 07:23 PM   #18080
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If I was handed a Moore-Speed car here's what I'd buy to go with it:
-Pro-Spec Diff (beefier, longer lasting between rebuilds)
-FRP Rear Plate (more flex than the heatsink plate, more grip)
-18T pulley and belt assemblies (easier to gear BL, smoother, less drag than the 16T ones)
-1.0, 1.5, 2.0 degree pivot blocks for more tuning options. (arm sweep, rear toe)

These items aren't needed, but do have their advantages.

Adjustable chassis flex on the TC is achieved by adding stand-offs between the topdeck and the chassis. I haven't seen this used very often and not having it as a tuning aid isn't going to leave you out to dry. You could buy the TC top deck and ATC stand-offs and mount them on your car. You would need to drill mounting holes on the chassis. But I would save your money and stick with the standard top deck that comes with the Moore Speed with no stand-offs.
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Old 12-22-2009, 09:38 PM   #18081
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Originally Posted by Scott B View Post
Looks like a stock TC chassis too me!!
Agreed. It has the large cell cut outs and large holes under the differentials. Looks like a stock TC chassis to me.
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Old 12-22-2009, 10:11 PM   #18082
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Originally Posted by Owen RaCing View Post
So does Jilles car, and I believe he run's all Orion now as of recently. So the Orion boy's got Speed Passions...
That was from the Futaba cup last weekend in Thailand, it was a control SP V3 11.5t stock race.
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Old 12-22-2009, 11:00 PM   #18083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott B View Post
Looks like a stock TC chassis too me!!
Looks like my eyes were playing tricks on me last night.
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Old 12-23-2009, 10:57 AM   #18084
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is there an aluminum 6 degree castor block that you can buy for the cyclone, or would any other work, e.g. xray etc.
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Old 12-23-2009, 11:28 AM   #18085
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Agreed. It has the large cell cut outs and large holes under the differentials. Looks like a stock TC chassis to me.

Hi Korey,

Finally installing new DCJ's and noticed they are assembled dry. What lube are you guys running? Do you recommend shrink wrap over the pins?

Thx,

Mike
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Old 12-23-2009, 11:52 AM   #18086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShaunMac View Post
If I was handed a Moore-Speed car here's what I'd buy to go with it:
-Pro-Spec Diff (beefier, longer lasting between rebuilds)
-FRP Rear Plate (more flex than the heatsink plate, more grip)
-18T pulley and belt assemblies (easier to gear BL, smoother, less drag than the 16T ones)
-1.0, 1.5, 2.0 degree pivot blocks for more tuning options. (arm sweep, rear toe)

These items aren't needed, but do have their advantages.

Adjustable chassis flex on the TC is achieved by adding stand-offs between the topdeck and the chassis. I haven't seen this used very often and not having it as a tuning aid isn't going to leave you out to dry. You could buy the TC top deck and ATC stand-offs and mount them on your car. You would need to drill mounting holes on the chassis. But I would save your money and stick with the standard top deck that comes with the Moore Speed with no stand-offs.
Thats great Shaun thank you
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Old 12-23-2009, 04:18 PM   #18087
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Agreed. It has the large cell cut outs and large holes under the differentials. Looks like a stock TC chassis to me.
Yes, Hara used standard TC chassis. I was there, I finished 4th behind Surikan, Hara and Jilles Groskamp.
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Old 12-23-2009, 11:48 PM   #18088
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Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
Hi Korey,

Finally installing new DCJ's and noticed they are assembled dry. What lube are you guys running? Do you recommend shrink wrap over the pins?

Thx,

Mike
Hiro uses AE Black grease. I like to use a drop or two of that much more V-made joint lube. I use bearing oil as well. I think it works better if you make sure to put a drop or two in every run. I haven't put shrink wrap around mine, and I haven't had any problems, but it wouldn't hurt I guess.

-Korey
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Old 12-23-2009, 11:48 PM   #18089
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Originally Posted by andrew188 View Post
Yes, Hara used standard TC chassis. I was there, I finished 4th behind Surikan, Hara and Jilles Groskamp.
Thanks for the info

-Korey
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Old 12-24-2009, 08:56 AM   #18090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Hiro uses AE Black grease. I like to use a drop or two of that much more V-made joint lube. I use bearing oil as well. I think it works better if you make sure to put a drop or two in every run. I haven't put shrink wrap around mine, and I haven't had any problems, but it wouldn't hurt I guess.

-Korey
Thanks Sir!
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