Hot Bodies Cyclone
You take the tensioner out. You don't need it for 17.5 or 13.5. I've even seen guys running in mod without the belt tensioner.
You can run the cut deck to gain more grip at low-bite tracks or even at high-bite tracks to help calm the car down a bit. It made my car feel much smoother and easier to drive because it wasn't quite as responsive. I like a more neutral feeling car. I can't drive a car that's on the edge and super responsive.
You can run the cut deck to gain more grip at low-bite tracks or even at high-bite tracks to help calm the car down a bit. It made my car feel much smoother and easier to drive because it wasn't quite as responsive. I like a more neutral feeling car. I can't drive a car that's on the edge and super responsive.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
(2) With a bit of "effort" I mounted the belt tensioner (flipped 180 degs) forward of the Steering Crank screw (there is an unused hole on my TC's top deck).
Cheers
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
Mr.Hiro...
I have a Hara Cyclone. Do i need anything different to put Barry's 13.5 setup from the KO race on my cyclone? Like arms, shock towers, etc. Thanks.
I have a Hara Cyclone. Do i need anything different to put Barry's 13.5 setup from the KO race on my cyclone? Like arms, shock towers, etc. Thanks.
You can put Barry's 13.5 setup on your Hara edition but there is one thing you need to check as following.
Arm spacing (Front):
If your car doesn't have the new "TC" a-arms, you need to shim a-arms differently. Barry's car has 2.75mm in front of the a-arms and 1.0mm in the back, but with the older a-arms it needs 0.75mm in front and 3.0mm in the back.
The shock positions on arms:
Front- Out side
Rear- Middle
(Those are the same location as the #2 on front arms, #3 on rear arms)
Hope it helps.
Thank you!
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
thank you, Hiro!
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Cheers
I'm a bit confused on the shim values quoted above, which come to a total of 3.75mm. For my HB Cyclone TC (unmodified), the total shim value allowed is 2.75mm. Therefore, if the aft shim is 1.0mm, the forward shim should be 1.75mm. I actually use a total of 2.50mm to get smooth arm movement (I found 2.75mm to be too tight). What am I missing here ??
Cheers
Cheers
Basically the TC (all cyclone series) needs total of 2.75mm shims. However, when you use 2.0deg block (1.0deg,1.5deg whatever all these kind of blocks) in "FR", you will have to add another 1.0mm so the total shims will be 3.75mm instead regular 2.75mm.
As long as you have regular "FR" block on your car, you are fine with 2.75mm total.
Please let me know if you need further info.
Thank you.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Yes you are right cosmo,
Basically the TC (all cyclone series) needs total of 2.75mm shims. However, when you use 2.0deg block (1.0deg,1.5deg whatever all these kind of blocks) in "FR", you will have to add another 1.0mm so the total shims will be 3.75mm instead regular 2.75mm.
As long as you have regular "FR" block on your car, you are fine with 2.75mm total.
Please let me know if you need further info.
Thank you.
Basically the TC (all cyclone series) needs total of 2.75mm shims. However, when you use 2.0deg block (1.0deg,1.5deg whatever all these kind of blocks) in "FR", you will have to add another 1.0mm so the total shims will be 3.75mm instead regular 2.75mm.
As long as you have regular "FR" block on your car, you are fine with 2.75mm total.
Please let me know if you need further info.
Thank you.
(2) Is this related to the physical modification mentioned earlier in the thread where (I think?) it talked about drilling new holes (I think to get the sus arm hinge pins slightly further apart) ??
Cheers
(1) I'm using a 1.5 deg pivot block in front, instead of the kit 2.5 deg pivot block. I'm assuming you mean something else with the statement above?
"FR" block i mentioned was "Front Rear" block. The 1.5 deg block you have on your car would be "FF" (Front Front) but with the modification, we use 2.0 deg block in "FR" (Front Rear) position.
(2) Is this related to the physical modification mentioned earlier in the thread where (I think?) it talked about drilling new holes (I think to get the sus arm hinge pins slightly further apart) ??
Yes, drill two holes to use the toe-in block in "FR" position and add another 1.0mm shim on the hinge pin as there will be 1.0mm gap when you use toe-in block for both "FF" and "FR".
Hope you could understand this.
"FR" block i mentioned was "Front Rear" block. The 1.5 deg block you have on your car would be "FF" (Front Front) but with the modification, we use 2.0 deg block in "FR" (Front Rear) position.
(2) Is this related to the physical modification mentioned earlier in the thread where (I think?) it talked about drilling new holes (I think to get the sus arm hinge pins slightly further apart) ??
Yes, drill two holes to use the toe-in block in "FR" position and add another 1.0mm shim on the hinge pin as there will be 1.0mm gap when you use toe-in block for both "FF" and "FR".
Hope you could understand this.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
(1) I'm using a 1.5 deg pivot block in front, instead of the kit 2.5 deg pivot block. I'm assuming you mean something else with the statement above?
"FR" block i mentioned was "Front Rear" block. The 1.5 deg block you have on your car would be "FF" (Front Front) but with the modification, we use 2.0 deg block in "FR" (Front Rear) position.
(2) Is this related to the physical modification mentioned earlier in the thread where (I think?) it talked about drilling new holes (I think to get the sus arm hinge pins slightly further apart) ??
Yes, drill two holes to use the toe-in block in "FR" position and add another 1.0mm shim on the hinge pin as there will be 1.0mm gap when you use toe-in block for both "FF" and "FR".
Hope you could understand this.
"FR" block i mentioned was "Front Rear" block. The 1.5 deg block you have on your car would be "FF" (Front Front) but with the modification, we use 2.0 deg block in "FR" (Front Rear) position.
(2) Is this related to the physical modification mentioned earlier in the thread where (I think?) it talked about drilling new holes (I think to get the sus arm hinge pins slightly further apart) ??
Yes, drill two holes to use the toe-in block in "FR" position and add another 1.0mm shim on the hinge pin as there will be 1.0mm gap when you use toe-in block for both "FF" and "FR".
Hope you could understand this.
Tech Master
iTrader: (113)
(1) I'm using a 1.5 deg pivot block in front, instead of the kit 2.5 deg pivot block. I'm assuming you mean something else with the statement above?
"FR" block i mentioned was "Front Rear" block. The 1.5 deg block you have on your car would be "FF" (Front Front) but with the modification, we use 2.0 deg block in "FR" (Front Rear) position.
(2) Is this related to the physical modification mentioned earlier in the thread where (I think?) it talked about drilling new holes (I think to get the sus arm hinge pins slightly further apart) ??
Yes, drill two holes to use the toe-in block in "FR" position and add another 1.0mm shim on the hinge pin as there will be 1.0mm gap when you use toe-in block for both "FF" and "FR".
Hope you could understand this.
"FR" block i mentioned was "Front Rear" block. The 1.5 deg block you have on your car would be "FF" (Front Front) but with the modification, we use 2.0 deg block in "FR" (Front Rear) position.
(2) Is this related to the physical modification mentioned earlier in the thread where (I think?) it talked about drilling new holes (I think to get the sus arm hinge pins slightly further apart) ??
Yes, drill two holes to use the toe-in block in "FR" position and add another 1.0mm shim on the hinge pin as there will be 1.0mm gap when you use toe-in block for both "FF" and "FR".
Hope you could understand this.
Now I see it but I don't understand why? what is the difference between running the stock stuff and 2* in ff and fr? Is it adding to front wheel track?
Track width is widened, but the narrow hexes help to bring it back in a bit.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
(2) I have tried solid ATC posts to firm up the front, and the change is quite noticeable. However, I am still experimenting. Noting that I have included a cut top deck as a permanent change to my TC.
Cheers
Tech Master
iTrader: (113)
How does it stiffen the car? I would think it would lay the shock down a small degree and soften it.
I don't think we can say just stiffen or lighten the suspension that easy.