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Old 12-18-2009, 03:10 AM   #18031
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Originally Posted by vassago View Post
I have just received my "#67695 - Li-Po Battery Upper Deck Conversion Set" and put it on my car.
However a small alu strip with 2 holes comes with it and I am stumped on where to put it.
Can someone enlighten me?
It depends on which version of the cyclone you have to if you need it. it was mentioned a couple of pages back but i don't run it so can't remember off hand!!
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Old 12-18-2009, 03:21 AM   #18032
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It depends on which version of the cyclone you have to if you need it. it was mentioned a couple of pages back but i don't run it so can't remember off hand!!
You are right, quote from Artwork:

"Someone posted about this earlier...I think it is for one of the older cyclones and is not needed for the TC. You do however need the 2mm round shim that comes with the kit. As long as it looks level you should be good to go. "

Can't believe I missed it, thanks.
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Old 12-18-2009, 03:29 AM   #18033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vassago View Post
I have just received my "#67695 - Li-Po Battery Upper Deck Conversion Set" and put it on my car.
However a small alu strip with 2 holes comes with it and I am stumped on where to put it.
Can someone enlighten me?
Is used in case you have the engine mount for brushless with the pivot pulleys raised with the standard does not serve
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Old 12-19-2009, 08:22 AM   #18034
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
Hi Ali,

The difference between using the 2.0 deg blocks for FF/FR and the stock block is that the hinge pin width. With using 2.0 deg block for both FF/FR, we can widen the hinge pin width to 44.8mm. (Stock one is 42mm)

The benefit on using wider block is that we will be able to go softer overall but still not much roll. I can also say the front end will have more stability that will eventually generates more crispier turn in.

We have been trying this for long time and getting very good result with it.
To do this, you will have to make another two holes on the chassis to put the block on, and you will have to dremel the block due to the interference with both steering linkage and front drive belt.

You can also choose the width 43mm by using 1.5 deg block.

Let me know if you need further info.
Thank you.


How does this mod work on carpet (rubber) ?
Thanks.
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Old 12-19-2009, 05:28 PM   #18035
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Can someone post a pic of the cut top deck mod that I am hearing about? Thanks
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Old 12-19-2009, 06:32 PM   #18036
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Sorry it's not the best picture. You cut straight thru the belt tensioner mount screw hole.
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Old 12-19-2009, 08:23 PM   #18037
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ok. do you just cut it thin enough that the screw hole for the tensioner still works, or do you have to relocate the tensioner? also, under what circumstances is the cut plate best used? Thanks.
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Old 12-19-2009, 09:16 PM   #18038
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You take the tensioner out. You don't need it for 17.5 or 13.5. I've even seen guys running in mod without the belt tensioner.

You can run the cut deck to gain more grip at low-bite tracks or even at high-bite tracks to help calm the car down a bit. It made my car feel much smoother and easier to drive because it wasn't quite as responsive. I like a more neutral feeling car. I can't drive a car that's on the edge and super responsive.
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Old 12-19-2009, 09:30 PM   #18039
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG RE View Post
Can someone post a pic of the cut top deck mod that I am hearing about? Thanks
(1) Here's the photo originally posted by Phil Chambers.

(2) With a bit of "effort" I mounted the belt tensioner (flipped 180 degs) forward of the Steering Crank screw (there is an unused hole on my TC's top deck).

Cheers
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Old 12-20-2009, 03:03 AM   #18040
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Mr.Hiro...

I have a Hara Cyclone. Do i need anything different to put Barry's 13.5 setup from the KO race on my cyclone? Like arms, shock towers, etc. Thanks.
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Old 12-20-2009, 09:17 AM   #18041
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Syber Serulean View Post
Mr.Hiro...

I have a Hara Cyclone. Do i need anything different to put Barry's 13.5 setup from the KO race on my cyclone? Like arms, shock towers, etc. Thanks.
Hi Syber Serulean,
You can put Barry's 13.5 setup on your Hara edition but there is one thing you need to check as following.

Arm spacing (Front):
If your car doesn't have the new "TC" a-arms, you need to shim a-arms differently. Barry's car has 2.75mm in front of the a-arms and 1.0mm in the back, but with the older a-arms it needs 0.75mm in front and 3.0mm in the back.

The shock positions on arms:
Front- Out side
Rear- Middle
(Those are the same location as the #2 on front arms, #3 on rear arms)

Hope it helps.
Thank you!
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Old 12-20-2009, 11:12 AM   #18042
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thank you, Hiro!
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Old 12-20-2009, 11:50 AM   #18043
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
Hi Syber Serulean,
...
Arm spacing (Front):
Barry's car has 2.75mm in front of the a-arms and 1.0mm in the back,
...
I'm a bit confused on the shim values quoted above, which come to a total of 3.75mm. For my HB Cyclone TC (unmodified), the total shim value allowed is 2.75mm. Therefore, if the aft shim is 1.0mm, the forward shim should be 1.75mm. I actually use a total of 2.50mm to get smooth arm movement (I found 2.75mm to be too tight). What am I missing here ??

Cheers
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Old 12-20-2009, 12:05 PM   #18044
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Originally Posted by cosmo1974 View Post
I'm a bit confused on the shim values quoted above, which come to a total of 3.75mm. For my HB Cyclone TC (unmodified), the total shim value allowed is 2.75mm. Therefore, if the aft shim is 1.0mm, the forward shim should be 1.75mm. I actually use a total of 2.50mm to get smooth arm movement (I found 2.75mm to be too tight). What am I missing here ??

Cheers
Yes you are right cosmo,
Basically the TC (all cyclone series) needs total of 2.75mm shims. However, when you use 2.0deg block (1.0deg,1.5deg whatever all these kind of blocks) in "FR", you will have to add another 1.0mm so the total shims will be 3.75mm instead regular 2.75mm.

As long as you have regular "FR" block on your car, you are fine with 2.75mm total.

Please let me know if you need further info.
Thank you.
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Old 12-20-2009, 12:28 PM   #18045
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
Yes you are right cosmo,
Basically the TC (all cyclone series) needs total of 2.75mm shims. However, when you use 2.0deg block (1.0deg,1.5deg whatever all these kind of blocks) in "FR", you will have to add another 1.0mm so the total shims will be 3.75mm instead regular 2.75mm.

As long as you have regular "FR" block on your car, you are fine with 2.75mm total.

Please let me know if you need further info.
Thank you.
(1) I'm using a 1.5 deg pivot block in front, instead of the kit 2.5 deg pivot block. I'm assuming you mean something else with the statement above?

(2) Is this related to the physical modification mentioned earlier in the thread where (I think?) it talked about drilling new holes (I think to get the sus arm hinge pins slightly further apart) ??

Cheers
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