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Old 11-16-2009, 08:40 PM   #17851
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Originally Posted by balistic View Post
I have run mine several times and took it to WCRCR last week and after a few min I grazed the outside wall and lost steering, veered across the straight and grazed the inside wall. from the stand I couldn't see the front wheel? I walked down and had snapped both front arms outside of the shock and both front wheels were inside the wind shield. most damage I have done to it and the softest hits, the irony of hidden damage.
that's funny.. the same thing happened to me.. same track... last Wednesday

I was coming too hot down the back straight with my RCGT TC and grazed the sweeper... broke the front arm on the left side... of course WCRCR was out of TC front arms.... had to use a Cyclone S front arm... meh
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Old 11-16-2009, 08:58 PM   #17852
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that's funny.. the same thing happened to me.. same track... last Wednesday

I was coming too hot down the back straight with my RCGT TC and grazed the sweeper... broke the front arm on the left side... of course WCRCR was out of TC front arms.... had to use a Cyclone S front arm... meh
You may need to get creative.. i ended up making a front Kydex bumper from another manufacture, and left it a little wider than the stock foam bumper. This helped alot!!

As for arms breaking, try using softer arms... we have found using the HPI pro4 arms with lots of plastic/nylon rather than the harder newer graphite arms held up better...plus it should create more traction with softer arms..

And if you are breaking steering knuckles, try the optional aluminum HB ones... nice finish to the front end... Although i would stay away from the 3racing options, because the metal is weaker, and the geometry isn't exactly like the stock ones.....

Good Luck!!!
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Old 11-16-2009, 09:48 PM   #17853
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If you're running the #2 position on the TC front arms, you simply have to keep it off the boards.
The #1 position keeps less pressure off the point where they snap off... but if you're doing that, do as suggested above: run the Pro4 / original cyclone front arms. The outside position on those is the same as the TC #1. If you like the feel of the #2 hole, you'll have to run 5W softer damping and one rate softer spring with the #1 hole... it's not exactly the same in the end, but it gets you close.

Having said that, on carpet, I run the #2 position on smooth high bite tracks and #1 on lower traction or rougher tracks... TC arms only and I've only gone through 3 front arms (well deserved hits too) over the last 4 major races and 20-odd club races.
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Old 11-16-2009, 11:48 PM   #17854
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Has anyone tried the exotekracing lipo chassis for Cyclone?

Some feedback please.

http://www.exotekracing.com/EXOTEK_N.../9/30_HBX.html
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Old 11-17-2009, 12:17 AM   #17855
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I've watched them run in pro classes and the car looked great. Very capable. I haven't drove one though.
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Old 11-17-2009, 01:16 AM   #17856
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Originally Posted by vadersing View Post
Has anyone tried the exotekracing lipo chassis for Cyclone?

Some feedback please.

http://www.exotekracing.com/EXOTEK_N.../9/30_HBX.html
Yep, put one on my outside car, as the chassis needed replacing from the out door season, and popped the running gear straight on the lipo chassis to use indoors. The one difference was that you can make the front of the car 0.75mm longer, and I also run the bat strap, coz I hate the tape idea and always have.
Used it for the first time in anger on a Sunday indoor series in the UK, and put it 4th in the A, and took the win in the first final, and second on in the second final, which gave me the win on the day
The car seems to be more responsive, and transition is better than the standard chassis with cell slots in it.
The chassis is also 11m narrower and is 2mm thick instead of the 2.5mm standard one.
Overal very impressed with with it, I may buy one for my newer car

Cheers Malc
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Old 11-17-2009, 05:50 AM   #17857
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Wow awesome post.
Thanks for sharing with us
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Old 11-17-2009, 06:29 AM   #17858
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Hi,

(1) Has any tried the following product in the TC Rear Diff ??

-- Ceramic Grooved Thrust Bearing 2x6x3mm with 8 x 1.5mm balls
by RC Hobby and available at RC MARKET.

http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....q2egblvj97um82

(2) The kit TC Rear Diff is a slightly different configuration.

Cheers
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Old 11-17-2009, 08:55 AM   #17859
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Hey guys

I broke my cyclone hara's upper deck the other day (ouch). Is there a point replacing it by a TC's (I still have the stock lower deck) or shall I stick to the stock one? Do they have the same mounting specs anyway?

Thanks!

Paul
er... anyone? Is it that stupid a question???

Thanks!

Paul
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Old 11-17-2009, 09:21 AM   #17860
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Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
er... anyone? Is it that stupid a question???

Thanks!

Paul
Hi Paul, the TC top deck has same mounting holes on it and I think it's a slightly stiffer than the Hara's top deck and it's little cheaper too.
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Old 11-17-2009, 10:10 AM   #17861
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I have been eying this chassis myself - thanks so much for the helpful reply..! I have heard through the grapevine that HB is coming out with its own lipo chassis as well..?


Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCoolCanFanMan View Post
Yep, put one on my outside car, as the chassis needed replacing from the out door season, and popped the running gear straight on the lipo chassis to use indoors. The one difference was that you can make the front of the car 0.75mm longer, and I also run the bat strap, coz I hate the tape idea and always have.
Used it for the first time in anger on a Sunday indoor series in the UK, and put it 4th in the A, and took the win in the first final, and second on in the second final, which gave me the win on the day
The car seems to be more responsive, and transition is better than the standard chassis with cell slots in it.
The chassis is also 11m narrower and is 2mm thick instead of the 2.5mm standard one.
Overal very impressed with with it, I may buy one for my newer car

Cheers Malc
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Old 11-17-2009, 10:26 AM   #17862
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Originally Posted by EJ20 View Post
Hi Paul, the TC top deck has same mounting holes on it and I think it's a slightly stiffer than the Hara's top deck and it's little cheaper too.
Yup! TC top deck drops right on. Its made from a slightly different carbon fiber product. I think I remember the resin being a little different, so it's a tick stiffer.

-Korey
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Old 11-17-2009, 12:52 PM   #17863
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmo1974 View Post
Hi,

(1) Has any tried the following product in the TC Rear Diff ??

-- Ceramic Grooved Thrust Bearing 2x6x3mm with 8 x 1.5mm balls
by RC Hobby and available at RC MARKET.

http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....q2egblvj97um82

(2) The kit TC Rear Diff is a slightly different configuration.

Cheers
This Thrust ball bearing 2x6x3 is for old ver. Cyclone ball diff.
New ver. Cyclone TC ball diff isn't fit.

Thanks !
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Old 11-18-2009, 03:36 PM   #17864
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I'm trying foams on my Surikarn and looking for an outdoor asphalt set-up to start with. I used them the other weekend and had a real loose rear and coned foams, so am keen to go back to scratch rather than try and tweak my set-up.
The track is a very large outdoor asphalt track (1/8 nitro international spec), and down here the temperature is fairly consistent, not that that is a big deal for foams as far as I know.
I'm running in a 13.5 class, currently with NiMh, but will be going to Lipo soon.
The foams I have been running are 30sh rear and 32sh front, is that too soft for a start?
Lots of questions, need lots of answers
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Old 11-18-2009, 04:56 PM   #17865
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Originally Posted by RC MARKET View Post
This Thrust ball bearing 2x6x3 is for old ver. Cyclone ball diff.
New ver. Cyclone TC ball diff isn't fit.

Thanks !
Thanks for the information
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