Hi Korey,
I am suitably confused, and need some more of your expert education.
(1) A ways back in this thread there was the following dialog with yourself.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------- Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow
I think the cut middle deck also works great on "Super" high bite to free up the rear.
May be we should have tried?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------- Originally Posted by jag88
Would you suggest that this be tried with rubber on carpet ? I've been running the car all summer on mid to high grip carpet ( Jaco blues, Jack, 13.5, spool ). What's happening to me is that the car has no corner speed. It basically stops mid corner. I just switched to the lipo top deck and the overall chassis seems to have too much flex. I thought that the chassis was giving up in the corners and that's why it was stopping mid corner. If I cut the middle deck wouldn't that make the problem worse ?
I realize that you guys run mostly on asphault but maybe you may have a thought.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------- I would leave it uncut... and run ATC posts up front if you have them (using 2mm shims instead of the orings). If you are running the chassis that came in the TC kit, it tends to:
-- flex a little too much in the front just under the diff, and
-- just about right in the rear.
You might even want to try a normal graphite rear plate as well if you can find them.
I would also suggest raising the roll center by adding shims under the suspension and toe blocks. If grip is good enough, you might be able to run as much as 2-3 mm under the suspension blocks. Just be careful though, I've noticed if you're not careful and raise the roll center too much on carpet, it can traction roll really easy when the grip gets high. I think it just makes the car transfer weight too fast side to side and makes the car grab really weird. You'll have to play with it to find a happy medium.
-Korey
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
(2) I need some of your expert guidance on when to use (and *not* to use) the:
-- ATC posts
-- cut rear (middle) deck
-- cut top deck
(3) I am particularly confused about the bolded text above ("flex a little too much in the front just under the diff"), and the fact that your are running a cut top deck. Doesn't this make the front end way too flexible ??
Thanks in advance
I believe the bolded statement refers to the fact that the Cyclone TC chassis has larger cut outs below the diff than the Moore or earlier editions.
hi fellow hotbodies racer how would you gear a 17.5 rubber on carpet where to start out at im planning on going to the snowbird never ran rubber since their no 17.5 foam and a better understanding on gearing like when some one say go dwn on gearing or go up could some one explain like for example 100/50 plse help thxs reggie
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hotbodies cyclone, hotbodies tc, speedpassion gt pro2, lrp and run john tag express motors
I believe the bolded statement refers to the fact that the Cyclone TC chassis has larger cut outs below the diff than the Moore or earlier editions.
Thanks for the background info.
I'm not all that surprised about the front flex (because of the cut-out); What I was alluding to was the fact that the front flex AND the cut top deck would give a lot of extra flex up front, and wasn't sure why the HB team drivers would want to do this ??
(1) Since I posted the previous item, I have cut the top deck and placed in my TC. What I have noticed is that the cut is in line with the servo position (a couple of inches back from the front spool).
(2) So I'm guessing that I could run the ATC posts to firm up the front, and the cut top deck will provide some flex just forward of the middle of the car. Does this sound plausible ??
Cheers
Hi,
(1) At present, there is a practice day at the new outdoor asphalt track only once every two weeks; fortunately today was a practice day. Ambient temperatures were high at 37 degs C, with a track temp of 60 degs C.
(2) I'm glad to report that the TC behaved like a new car.
I was running the following setup:
-- Hara Thailand TITC 2009 setup
......(almost; no wheel spacer on rear, -1 toe, 5.5mm ride height F+R, R(hub)=2.0_0.5)
-- ATC posts on front (actually some metal PCB mounts + shims)
-- Cut top deck
-- Solid rear (middle) deck
-- Sorex 36 A-Firm inserts on Speedmind rims
hey guys I have a cyclone tc and my servo mounts seem like they are too far away from the servo mount holes on the chassis
or it looks like the servo is too long and the servo mount holes are too close together.
check out the servo mounts......they aren't straight
what brand of servo are you running? if you're running a KO Propo, then you'd need to get the aluminum servo mounts which have the mounting holes offset. hths
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what brand of servo are you running? if you're running a KO Propo, then you'd need to get the aluminum servo mounts which have the mounting holes offset. hths
its a futaba servo so idk why its like that
u think the aluminum servo mounts will fix the prob?
I would imagine you could enlarge the holes on the servo mounts. The aluminum servo mounts have the holes off center, so you can accomodate wider servos.
I would imagine you could enlarge the holes on the servo mounts. The aluminum servo mounts have the holes off center, so you can accomodate wider servos.
IC Ill just wait for my aluminum servo mounts to come in
Big improvement 
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