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Old 11-02-2009, 11:07 AM   #17791
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Originally Posted by Grindog001 View Post
I have been having a nightmare with driveshfts in this car. I dont run alot of lock but i am going through them fast! Do the tamiya 44mm steel bones fit as i am hoping these will be stronger

thanks, john
John, i had the same problem, although my local track had pretty harsh boards.. i actually found out the steel ones from the cyclone S was a drop in..didnt car about the BLING FACTOR.. and they were 2 bones in package, instead of one purple item in package.
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Old 11-02-2009, 12:10 PM   #17792
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Originally Posted by rc pete View Post
Korey, do you run the Orca sensored speedo? If so, what settings do you run for 13.5? Love the Orca motors, haven't tried the speedo yet. My local Orca pusher might put one in my ride, but I want to have it setup right.

Thanks.
I sure do! Here is my 13.5 setup with the Orca 13.5:

Throttle Range: manual
Neutral range: 6%
Throttle response: 1x
Running mode: Stock I
Timing mode: 30 deg
Punch: 10
PWM Mode: 8K
Drag brake: 6%
Brake force 100%

I geared it at a 5.22 final drive on a small carpet track... but I think I might gear down another tooth and see how that goes next time out.

Hope that helps

-Korey
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Old 11-02-2009, 01:29 PM   #17793
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Originally Posted by dizzy1 View Post
xchange, the standard knuckles on the car or flawed. Have been for years. Everyone who races the cyclone in my area, same issue, cracked perfectly down the mold seam towards the front. Fix is to buy the aluminum ones. You will find this also helps anything else break, doesn't transfer the break point some place else, the caster blocks snap because your steering blocks twisted from breaking and of course twisting the caster block. As for the hinge pins, I've been driving the pro4 since day one and the cyclone and NEVER bent a pin so either your track is rough on cars or you might need to work on staying off the boards.

Some have used the hard bumpter from the T2 and some slight enlargements of the holes, fits on perfect and will help protect that front end.
Would you have the part number for these?
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Old 11-02-2009, 01:36 PM   #17794
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Would you have the part number for these?
Part# 67698

http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/products/en/67698.html
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Old 11-02-2009, 03:44 PM   #17795
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Would you have the part number for these?
no please don't.

get the hard version type. they hardly ever break, I have not broken one for months (no joke). And when they do break, they simply break unlike aluminum which could bend and screw up your setup and you may never know what it is.
/rant

on a better note, I tired the Exotek chassis; PURE AWESOMENESS.
My car has never handled better, it has much harder turn in characteristics (i dialed a little out but I like the fact it has the capability to give you that much turn in if you need it). It also has amazing transitioning from left to right turns vice versa, I really notice it in the chicanes and s's, I was overtaking absolutely everyone in those sections. In short, it feels like I am driving a foam car. Only without the twitchiness. The only criticism I have is the method of taping the battery in, it is a total pain in the ass. But it is worth it.
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Old 11-02-2009, 04:26 PM   #17796
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Originally Posted by dizzy1 View Post
xchange, the standard knuckles on the car or flawed. Have been for years. Everyone who races the cyclone in my area, same issue, cracked perfectly down the mold seam towards the front. Fix is to buy the aluminum ones. You will find this also helps anything else break, doesn't transfer the break point some place else, the caster blocks snap because your steering blocks twisted from breaking and of course twisting the caster block. As for the hinge pins, I've been driving the pro4 since day one and the cyclone and NEVER bent a pin so either your track is rough on cars or you might need to work on staying off the boards.

Some have used the hard bumpter from the T2 and some slight enlargements of the holes, fits on perfect and will help protect that front end.

Thanks, so i do not have any issue to fix the breaking problem ... if i change the standard knuckle for aluminum, is the C-Hub are breaking

But i think the C hub are more resistant than the knuckle...

I dont understand because i stay away from the board but if i made one mistake, i broke parts ! Is frustrating!

Strange
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Old 11-02-2009, 06:03 PM   #17797
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how many mm's are the titanium turnbuckles.....im gonna get a new turnbuckle wrench and idk what size to get

maybe a 3mm turnbuckle wrench but idk
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Old 11-02-2009, 06:26 PM   #17798
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how many mm's are the titanium turnbuckles.....im gonna get a new turnbuckle wrench and idk what size to get

maybe a 3mm turnbuckle wrench but idk
I didn't measure the turnbuckles but HB has a wrench for it.

http://hotbodiesonline.com/products/en/66898.html
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Old 11-02-2009, 06:29 PM   #17799
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I didn't measure the turnbuckles but HB has a wrench for it.

http://hotbodiesonline.com/products/en/66898.html
yea i found it on amain right after I posted

thanks!
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Old 11-02-2009, 07:48 PM   #17800
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Originally Posted by Little_Mike View Post
no please don't.

get the hard version type. they hardly ever break, I have not broken one for months (no joke). And when they do break, they simply break unlike aluminum which could bend and screw up your setup and you may never know what it is.
/rant

on a better note, I tired the Exotek chassis; PURE AWESOMENESS.
My car has never handled better, it has much harder turn in characteristics (i dialed a little out but I like the fact it has the capability to give you that much turn in if you need it). It also has amazing transitioning from left to right turns vice versa, I really notice it in the chicanes and s's, I was overtaking absolutely everyone in those sections. In short, it feels like I am driving a foam car. Only without the twitchiness. The only criticism I have is the method of taping the battery in, it is a total pain in the ass. But it is worth it.
Thanks for the report! I might have to get one of these soon. Also, they do make a battery hold down bar, if you don't like taping in batteries. Not sure if its out yet, but they do make one.
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Old 11-02-2009, 09:13 PM   #17801
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battery bars are no longer used due to when u tighten the thumb screws it pulls the chassis apart and in tern tweaks it
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Old 11-02-2009, 09:33 PM   #17802
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
I sure do! Here is my 13.5 setup with the Orca 13.5:

Throttle Range: manual
Neutral range: 6%
Throttle response: 1x
Running mode: Stock I
Timing mode: 30 deg
Punch: 10
PWM Mode: 8K
Drag brake: 6%
Brake force 100%

I geared it at a 5.22 final drive on a small carpet track... but I think I might gear down another tooth and see how that goes next time out.

Hope that helps

-Korey
Thanks, Korey. You must get more top end with that setup. I'm normally at 4.7FDR with the Orca 13.5 as a standard Carpet setup, with the LRP sphere TC cranked at profile 8.
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Old 11-03-2009, 01:26 AM   #17803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
I sure do! Here is my 13.5 setup with the Orca 13.5:

Throttle Range: manual
Neutral range: 6%
Throttle response: 1x
Running mode: Stock I
Timing mode: 30 deg
Punch: 10
PWM Mode: 8K
Drag brake: 6%
Brake force 100%

I geared it at a 5.22 final drive on a small carpet track... but I think I might gear down another tooth and see how that goes next time out.

Hope that helps

-Korey
Hi Korey,

Are you able to provide some background on the specific model Orca ESC you are using ??

How does it compare to the LRP SPX (mode 7) when used for Super Stock (say 10.5 or 13.5 brushless) ??

Thanks in advance
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Old 11-03-2009, 02:32 AM   #17804
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Default Exotek Chassis

on a better note, I tired the Exotek chassis; PURE AWESOMENESS.

Hi Little_Mike.

Would you mind showing the link where to purchase the new Exotek Chassis thanks.

Cheers Daz
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Old 11-03-2009, 02:37 AM   #17805
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Originally Posted by Jazza View Post
on a better note, I tired the Exotek chassis; PURE AWESOMENESS.

Hi Little_Mike.

Would you mind showing the link where to purchase the new Exotek Chassis thanks.

Cheers Daz
http://www.exotekracing.com/EXOTEK_N.../9/30_HBX.html
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