Hot Bodies Cyclone
10-31-2009, 06:12 PM
11-01-2009, 03:26 PM
Korey, can you post some pics of your car? I like to see how you balance your cyclone. Thanks.
11-02-2009, 12:12 AM
Considering my car is in a bazzilion pieces right now.... I can't post a picture right now. I can tell you where I put them though 
I use a PPD billet lipo weight plate under the battery pack. Any additional weight I add towards the outside of the battery, but only towards the rear of the battery pack. This basically just seems to balance out the motor a little better. I think before I ripped my weight off in my weekly teardown of my car... I had 1/4 once in front of the battery on the chassis, 1/4 once behind, and 1/2 once the outside of the battery with the 3 ox plate under the battery. I think I can get away with running just the 1/2 on the outside of the pack, and the 3 oz plate under it though.
Also, for those of you that have been waiting on my report of DCJ's, I have finally run them!!!! I ran a battery pack on MIP CVD's up front at first, then slapped the DCJs in. The DCJs had less initial steering right off the bat, but I noticed an increase in corner speed through the middle of the corner. It didn't really have any more steering in the middle, but it sure as heck rolled through the corner faster. So far I like them, I definitely had to make some setup changes when I put them in my car though. I like to have a lot of initial steering going into the corner, so I changed my ackerman setting and took some arm sweep out of the car.
-Korey
I use a PPD billet lipo weight plate under the battery pack. Any additional weight I add towards the outside of the battery, but only towards the rear of the battery pack. This basically just seems to balance out the motor a little better. I think before I ripped my weight off in my weekly teardown of my car... I had 1/4 once in front of the battery on the chassis, 1/4 once behind, and 1/2 once the outside of the battery with the 3 ox plate under the battery. I think I can get away with running just the 1/2 on the outside of the pack, and the 3 oz plate under it though.
Also, for those of you that have been waiting on my report of DCJ's, I have finally run them!!!! I ran a battery pack on MIP CVD's up front at first, then slapped the DCJs in. The DCJs had less initial steering right off the bat, but I noticed an increase in corner speed through the middle of the corner. It didn't really have any more steering in the middle, but it sure as heck rolled through the corner faster. So far I like them, I definitely had to make some setup changes when I put them in my car though. I like to have a lot of initial steering going into the corner, so I changed my ackerman setting and took some arm sweep out of the car.
-Korey
11-02-2009, 08:29 AM
Korey, do you run the Orca sensored speedo? If so, what settings do you run for 13.5? Love the Orca motors, haven't tried the speedo yet. My local Orca pusher might put one in my ride, but I want to have it setup right.
Thanks.
Thanks.
11-02-2009, 08:36 AM
Hey guys, i have a problem on my cyclone tc!
I ran 3 pack and i broke 2 front knuckle, 1 C hub and 1 hingepin!
It's me or the car is not very strong?
And i never go very fast when i broke part, but every time i touch the layout, i broke
I ran 3 pack and i broke 2 front knuckle, 1 C hub and 1 hingepin!
It's me or the car is not very strong?
And i never go very fast when i broke part, but every time i touch the layout, i broke
11-02-2009, 08:51 AM
xchange, the standard knuckles on the car or flawed. Have been for years. Everyone who races the cyclone in my area, same issue, cracked perfectly down the mold seam towards the front. Fix is to buy the aluminum ones. You will find this also helps anything else break, doesn't transfer the break point some place else, the caster blocks snap because your steering blocks twisted from breaking and of course twisting the caster block. As for the hinge pins, I've been driving the pro4 since day one and the cyclone and NEVER bent a pin so either your track is rough on cars or you might need to work on staying off the boards.
Some have used the hard bumpter from the T2 and some slight enlargements of the holes, fits on perfect and will help protect that front end.
Some have used the hard bumpter from the T2 and some slight enlargements of the holes, fits on perfect and will help protect that front end.
11-02-2009, 09:04 AM
Tech Adept
I have been having a nightmare with driveshfts in this car. I dont run alot of lock but i am going through them fast! Do the tamiya 44mm steel bones fit as i am hoping these will be stronger
thanks, john
thanks, john
11-02-2009, 09:47 AM
http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/searc...=61398&lang=en
11-02-2009, 10:07 AM
Tech Elite
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John, i had the same problem, although my local track had pretty harsh boards.. i actually found out the steel ones from the cyclone S was a drop in..didnt car about the BLING FACTOR.. and they were 2 bones in package, instead of one purple item in package.
11-02-2009, 11:10 AM
Throttle Range: manual
Neutral range: 6%
Throttle response: 1x
Running mode: Stock I
Timing mode: 30 deg
Punch: 10
PWM Mode: 8K
Drag brake: 6%
Brake force 100%
I geared it at a 5.22 final drive on a small carpet track... but I think I might gear down another tooth and see how that goes next time out.
Hope that helps
-Korey
11-02-2009, 12:29 PM
xchange, the standard knuckles on the car or flawed. Have been for years. Everyone who races the cyclone in my area, same issue, cracked perfectly down the mold seam towards the front. Fix is to buy the aluminum ones. You will find this also helps anything else break, doesn't transfer the break point some place else, the caster blocks snap because your steering blocks twisted from breaking and of course twisting the caster block. As for the hinge pins, I've been driving the pro4 since day one and the cyclone and NEVER bent a pin so either your track is rough on cars or you might need to work on staying off the boards.
Some have used the hard bumpter from the T2 and some slight enlargements of the holes, fits on perfect and will help protect that front end.
Some have used the hard bumpter from the T2 and some slight enlargements of the holes, fits on perfect and will help protect that front end.
11-02-2009, 12:36 PM
11-02-2009, 02:44 PM
no please don't.
get the hard version type. they hardly ever break, I have not broken one for months (no joke). And when they do break, they simply break unlike aluminum which could bend and screw up your setup and you may never know what it is.
/rant
on a better note, I tired the Exotek chassis; PURE AWESOMENESS.
My car has never handled better, it has much harder turn in characteristics (i dialed a little out but I like the fact it has the capability to give you that much turn in if you need it). It also has amazing transitioning from left to right turns vice versa, I really notice it in the chicanes and s's, I was overtaking absolutely everyone in those sections. In short, it feels like I am driving a foam car. Only without the twitchiness. The only criticism I have is the method of taping the battery in, it is a total pain in the ass. But it is worth it.
get the hard version type. they hardly ever break, I have not broken one for months (no joke). And when they do break, they simply break unlike aluminum which could bend and screw up your setup and you may never know what it is.
/rant
on a better note, I tired the Exotek chassis; PURE AWESOMENESS.
My car has never handled better, it has much harder turn in characteristics (i dialed a little out but I like the fact it has the capability to give you that much turn in if you need it). It also has amazing transitioning from left to right turns vice versa, I really notice it in the chicanes and s's, I was overtaking absolutely everyone in those sections. In short, it feels like I am driving a foam car. Only without the twitchiness.
The only criticism I have is the method of taping the battery in, it is a total pain in the ass. But it is worth it.
11-02-2009, 03:26 PM
xchange, the standard knuckles on the car or flawed. Have been for years. Everyone who races the cyclone in my area, same issue, cracked perfectly down the mold seam towards the front. Fix is to buy the aluminum ones. You will find this also helps anything else break, doesn't transfer the break point some place else, the caster blocks snap because your steering blocks twisted from breaking and of course twisting the caster block. As for the hinge pins, I've been driving the pro4 since day one and the cyclone and NEVER bent a pin so either your track is rough on cars or you might need to work on staying off the boards.
Some have used the hard bumpter from the T2 and some slight enlargements of the holes, fits on perfect and will help protect that front end.
Some have used the hard bumpter from the T2 and some slight enlargements of the holes, fits on perfect and will help protect that front end.
Thanks, so i do not have any issue to fix the breaking problem ... if i change the standard knuckle for aluminum, is the C-Hub are breaking
But i think the C hub are more resistant than the knuckle...
I dont understand because i stay away from the board but if i made one mistake, i broke parts ! Is frustrating!
Strange
11-02-2009, 05:03 PM
how many mm's are the titanium turnbuckles.....im gonna get a new turnbuckle wrench and idk what size to get
maybe a 3mm turnbuckle wrench but idk
maybe a 3mm turnbuckle wrench but idk