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Old 10-09-2009, 02:47 AM
  #17611  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
It will raise the upper shock mounting locations... And change where the piston is in the shock basically. It will bring the piston lower into the shock. Personally... I have not messed with this much. I've always run the TC kit almost just as if it came out of the box. Plus you wont be able to slam your bodies as much!

Ballistic - Dont worry about it man. I just use 64mm because thats what Hara and Andy usually always start with. As far as I know, they almost never mess with it much anymore.

-Korey
Hi Korey,

Do you place an o-ring inside the shock body?
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Old 10-09-2009, 04:03 AM
  #17612  
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Originally Posted by Lonestar
Which means I'm good to go woo-hoo!!!!
The biggest improvement for me was cutting the both top decks.

I also have the DCJ's waiting.. They look cool...
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Old 10-09-2009, 05:36 AM
  #17613  
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Originally Posted by jarkkom
The biggest improvement for me was cutting the both top decks.

I also have the DCJ's waiting.. They look cool...
DCJ's look awesome indeed, just would feel like crap if I threw away the "normal" cvd's I have in stock as spares

Cutting "both" top decks? I cut the "rear" one (the CWF between the motor mount and the other bulkhead) last year already. What about the "other" top deck (I assume a cut that would help torsion flex)? Would you have a pic? Thanks!

Paul
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Old 10-09-2009, 10:48 AM
  #17614  
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Originally Posted by Lonestar
Cutting "both" top decks? I cut the "rear" one (the CWF between the motor mount and the other bulkhead) last year already. What about the "other" top deck (I assume a cut that would help torsion flex)? Would you have a pic? Thanks!

Paul
It has been explained in detail with a pic in here: http://www.rctech.net/forum/6195165-post17172.html

I tried them all a couple of months ago. The older style topdeck (thinner) was better than TC one but the cut TC topdeck with a cut FRP rear topdeck was the missing piece for this car. The solid rear topdeck just felt wrong always.
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Old 10-09-2009, 11:04 AM
  #17615  
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Originally Posted by ali_g
Hi Korey,

Do you place an o-ring inside the shock body?
Nope. 64mm is easy to achieve without them. Its about 3/4 of a turn from all the way threaded in I think... not 100% sure. Honestly, the adjustment of where the piston is in relation to the shock body has a very very small effect on how the car drives (in my opinion). There are other changes I worry about that have a greater effect on how the car works.

-Korey
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Old 10-09-2009, 11:24 AM
  #17616  
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Is it possible to Rebuild the new DCJ driveshafts, if so how?
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Old 10-09-2009, 11:40 AM
  #17617  
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Originally Posted by Lonestar
DCJ's look awesome indeed, just would feel like crap if I threw away the "normal" cvd's I have in stock as spares

Cutting "both" top decks? I cut the "rear" one (the CWF between the motor mount and the other bulkhead) last year already. What about the "other" top deck (I assume a cut that would help torsion flex)? Would you have a pic? Thanks!

Paul
DCJ instock !
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Old 10-09-2009, 11:49 AM
  #17618  
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Hey guys I just picked up a TC and I'm looking for setup information for a med bite outdoor ashpalt and a high bite indoor ashpalt setup. Thx. in advance
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Old 10-09-2009, 01:11 PM
  #17619  
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One more question. The TC I bought is a used one and it came with all these spring combos. Which springs do you guys used for asphalt racing.
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Old 10-09-2009, 01:22 PM
  #17620  
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Has anyone else got a set of DCJ's yet? Reason I ask is that I've seen two different versions depicted online with the same 67699 part number. One with inline pins (like Xray's ECS) and one with offset pins.

I got a set a few days ago and they were both of the inline variety.
Attached Thumbnails Hot Bodies Cyclone-dcj-62.jpg  
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Old 10-09-2009, 01:26 PM
  #17621  
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Originally Posted by ShaunMac
Has anyone else got a set of DCJ's yet? Reason I ask is that I've seen two different versions depicted online with the same 67699 part number. One with inline pins (like Xray's ECS) and one with offset pins.

I got a set a few days ago and they were both of the inline variety.
I'm pretty sure the inline ones were pre-production pictures. I remember I posted those haha. The newer productions ones should be opposed 90 deg. This allows for even smoother action.

-Korey
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Old 10-09-2009, 01:37 PM
  #17622  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
I'm pretty sure the inline ones were pre-production pictures. I remember I posted those haha. The newer productions ones should be opposed 90 deg. This allows for even smoother action.

-Korey
I figured the opposed 90 degree design would make for smoother operation. Now I have to wonder why the inline design would have even be packaged and sent out to stores? The DCJ's that I have are still very smooth. NO chatter at full lock, even with the car off the ground. So they should be fine on the track.

I was just curious to see if I was the only one that got this version of the DCJ.
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Old 10-09-2009, 01:49 PM
  #17623  
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Not sure man. It might have been a running change on the 2nd batch that came in.

-Korey
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Old 10-09-2009, 02:11 PM
  #17624  
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Originally Posted by ShaunMac
Has anyone else got a set of DCJ's yet? Reason I ask is that I've seen two different versions depicted online with the same 67699 part number. One with inline pins (like Xray's ECS) and one with offset pins.

I got a set a few days ago and they were both of the inline variety.
I have 4 pieces of the offset ones. Looks like the offset version is the latest as I just purchased them.
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Old 10-09-2009, 02:45 PM
  #17625  
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Originally Posted by billythekid
I have 4 pieces of the offset ones. Looks like the offset version is the latest as I just purchased them.
I guess I got the Special Limited Edition Ver.1 DCJ driveshafts.

As I said before these are still very smooth. The angle that each joint on the DCJ sees at full lock is minimal and doesn't seem to create any binding. Plus, I don't run my car with FULL LOCK so it's all good.

I always try to be different from the crowd. These "one of a kind" driveshafts will only help further that effort.
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