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Old 10-02-2009, 06:30 AM   #17536
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Default fastest cyclone

just something to think about but my car is one of the fastest cyclones in aus at the moment. And feels better than all my other cars!![/QUOTE]

Hey deci
What class do you race in Australia & whats your home track called.
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Old 10-02-2009, 09:36 AM   #17537
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hi guys,

I m currently building my cyclone TC and i have a little problem.

The center shaft with 2 pulley, if i push de pulleys to the center i have a big play left and right.

And if i push the pulleys to the bearing, the belt can touch the motor mount.

What i need to do?

Thanks
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Old 10-02-2009, 09:50 AM   #17538
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Originally Posted by Xchange View Post
hi guys,

I m currently building my cyclone TC and i have a little problem.

The center shaft with 2 pulley, if i push de pulleys to the center i have a big play left and right.

And if i push the pulleys to the bearing, the belt can touch the motor mount.

What i need to do?

Thanks
You need to shim the left pulley: a few shims (4mm ID) between the left pulley and the bearing in order to provide enough clearance for the belt to pass by the motor mount.
Once you set screw the left pulley and spur gear down, the final adjustment for side-to-side play is done using the right pulley. Set screw that pulley down so that you have just a tick of play.
Also, be sure your set screws are hitting the flatspots of the shaft and put some blue threadlock on them.
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Old 10-02-2009, 07:35 PM   #17539
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
I have not tried the new DCJ driveshafts though. When I get them, I will be using steel outdrives though.

-Korey
Hi Korey, what are the reasons for using the steel spool outdrives with DCJ?

How many runs can you get out of the POM spool outdrives with 13.5T?

Thanks.
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Old 10-02-2009, 10:56 PM   #17540
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Mainly just for durability. I figure I should stay on the safe side then try some more go fast stuff. Plus I have Hiro voice in my head from when he freaked out at the Reedy race. "NO!!!!! You must run steel cups!!! You can't break!!!" promptly after I hit a board and broke a POM outdrive on my spool haha. It was pretty hilarious.

If you don't break them and keep them clean, they last a good while.

-Korey
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Old 10-03-2009, 10:24 AM   #17541
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
If you don't break them and keep them clean, they last a good while.

-Korey
Don't most parts last a good while if you don't break them? j/k

I've never broken a POM outdrive, but I have experienced wear that turns into large amounts of slop. I can't help but think that some of that wear is caused by the binding and chatter created while at full lock. Since the DCJ's eliminate most of the chatter, now the POM's should hold up even longer.

I only run 13.5/17.5 classes. At Nexus Racing where I race, we will be focusing more on 17.5 this winter. I'll be running DCJ's & POM's at the next race. If I get time I will swap to the steel outdrives to see if I notice any differences between steel and POM outdrives when used with the DCJ's. If I ran Mod it would be steel outdrives only for reasons Korey sighted, DURABILITY.
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Old 10-03-2009, 10:59 AM   #17542
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Old 10-03-2009, 12:03 PM   #17543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Mainly just for durability. I figure I should stay on the safe side then try some more go fast stuff. Plus I have Hiro voice in my head from when he freaked out at the Reedy race. "NO!!!!! You must run steel cups!!! You can't break!!!" promptly after I hit a board and broke a POM outdrive on my spool haha. It was pretty hilarious.

If you don't break them and keep them clean, they last a good while.

-Korey
I don't know how you guys drive (to the boards ), but I've been using POM outdrives on the spool with only one failure in a big crash last season and none on this season. All I do is replace them every once in a while when they feel sloppy. I feel they ease up the load on the driveshafts so I don't have to rebuild them nearly as often as I should with steel cups. This is with mod rubber...
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Old 10-03-2009, 01:11 PM   #17544
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has anyone seen the new Exotec HBX lipo chassis for the Cyclone
http://exotekracing.com/EXOTEK_NEWS/.../9/30_HBX.html

What are your thoughts on this chassis? thinner chassis plate but less cut outs?
from what i can tell its not forsale to the public yet but wondered if anyone has seen this chassis or has done some testing for it?
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Old 10-03-2009, 05:21 PM   #17545
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How does the Sprint 2 compare to the cyclone. Is there a drift version of the cyclone?

I am thinking about getting one, how many cycl0one ersions are there? Easy to hopup like tt01s?
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Old 10-03-2009, 05:49 PM   #17546
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Does anyone know offhand if the smc 5000mah packs will fit the cyclone tc without having to modify the car in anyway? I think the pack is 24.5mm high.
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Old 10-03-2009, 05:59 PM   #17547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndysD8 View Post
Does anyone know offhand if the smc 5000mah packs will fit the cyclone tc without having to modify the car in anyway? I think the pack is 24.5mm high.
you will need to remove around 1.5 to 2mm off the r mount to get that lipo in
Cheers Malc
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Old 10-03-2009, 06:07 PM   #17548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jazza View Post
just something to think about but my car is one of the fastest cyclones in aus at the moment. And feels better than all my other cars!!
Hey deci
What class do you race in Australia & whats your home track called.[/QUOTE]

at the moment just staying cheap running in 17.5 but i race at S.M.A mostly but whenever i go somewhere else the car is extremely quick going under lap records at windsor race centre on practice days. Also at whalan my car is just as quick as any other when i put on a set of tyres that haven't had over 25 runs on it!!
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Old 10-03-2009, 07:52 PM   #17549
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Anyone looking for a nice starting set up with the TOP Solaris tire's my regionals set up is posted on www.gearchart.com Look for the set up uploaded on 10/03/09.

Thanks to Korey for the help. It was tweaked from his original set up to fit the track conditions and my driving style.
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Old 10-03-2009, 07:57 PM   #17550
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here is a good one guys.... while during the Paved Nats, extremely high bite, why would a standard hara rear shock tower (lower) opposed to standard moorespeed shock tower make a differance?? lower opposed to higher... i noticed moorespeed being taller had more preload on the springs like more suspension travel? my car wanted to lift a lot more, then noticed a buddy had been running the hara rear tower, by default, giving less rear shock travel, and didnt lift as much as mine was.............i did read with a lower tower, less camber gain? anyone?

btw, my car was a lot more easier to drive, and didnt lift anymore???
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