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Old 09-24-2009, 06:25 AM   #17461
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thanks but im looking for a standard carpet setup , as a good point to start off from
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Old 09-24-2009, 08:40 AM   #17462
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hmmm the setup says pink springs back and front , is this right ? ive always used gold/silver ?
You asked for a standard carpet setup... why not try what was posted? Dont understand what your lookin for? Standard setup? The setup would be the newest setup to try since it was used the other weekend at a major race?
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Old 09-24-2009, 08:50 AM   #17463
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Hi guys,

Just a question please, with a 6.5 motor, what is the best spur and pinion gear combination?

And is a good idea to use lightweight xray spur gear with precision racing lightweight pinion?
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Old 09-24-2009, 09:05 AM   #17464
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You asked for a standard carpet setup... why not try what was posted? Dont understand what your lookin for? Standard setup? The setup would be the newest setup to try since it was used the other weekend at a major race?
I'm with ARV!......... Try it and see where it takes you. Make small changes and go from there.......... I went with other changes that suited the track at hand and found great results quickly........ Only you will decide what works. So many variables, especially tires...(And sometimes you have to fun a spec tire)........ Good luck and have fun........... Hell, you might stumble onto something that might simply be golden and you can share that with us.
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Old 09-24-2009, 09:40 AM   #17465
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Shims under the camber link do change roll center, but it's a much finer adjustment of roll center. Personally, I don't think you are feeling this change. When you change the shims under the camber link, most people feel the change in the camber gain characteristics. On the cyclone, more shims under the pivot (flatter link) reduces camber change, so the camber setting stays mostly the same as the car rolls, but it gives a slightly lower roll center. Generally more shims will create slightly more initial grip (especially at high speed) and produce less overall grip through the middle and exit of the corner. Fewer shims (more angled link) does the opposite, and have more camber change (more negative camber as the suspension is compressed), but also gives a slightly higher roll center. Generally a more angled camber link will have less initial grip entering the corner, but more in the middle and exit.

Now for the suspension blocks. The suspension blocks do change roll center and camber change characteristics much like the camber link shims do... but the shims under the suspension blocks have a much greater effect on roll center than it does on the camber change characteristics. More shims under the suspension blocks raises the roll center. This gives more initial grip, less roll, but less overall grip in the middle and exit of the corner. Think of it as if the car feels... stiffer. Fewer shims will lower the roll center. The result is a car that rolls more and has more overall grip in the middle and exit of the corner. It does smooth out the car entering the corner though.

-Korey
Korey did excellent explanation! I agree with most, but i just wanted to add something on to his great explanation.

When you change the shims under the "inner" camber link only, it changes both roll center and the camber gain at a time. but if you change both "inner" and "outer" camber link (same amount), you can change only the roll center. (let's say if you add 1mm shim under the inner camber link, you add 1mm also under the outer camber link)

For the suspension block height change, it will also change both roll center and camber change and it's much greater effect than upper camber link change like Korey said. But again, you can change just roll center only if you change suspension block height and inner camber link shims at the same time.

For example, you add 1mm shim under the suspension blocks to raise up the roll center by 1mm. Then the inner camber link also needs to be raised up by 1mm so that the camber gain (change) will not be affected with this change. If you raise up the suspension block by 1mm only (no change for the inner camber link), that means you lowered the inner camber link by 1mm so you will have more camber gain (change) as well.

Hope it helps.
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Old 09-24-2009, 10:55 AM   #17466
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DCJ Next week back in stock !
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Old 09-24-2009, 12:58 PM   #17467
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I'm with ARV!......... Try it and see where it takes you. Make small changes and go from there.......... I went with other changes that suited the track at hand and found great results quickly........ Only you will decide what works. So many variables, especially tires...(And sometimes you have to fun a spec tire)........ Good luck and have fun........... Hell, you might stumble onto something that might simply be golden and you can share that with us.
Alex.. didnt know you were running a HB car? i thought it was just a "rent a ride" at the NJ race where i saw ya last?

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Old 09-24-2009, 01:06 PM   #17468
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No Sir!!............ Been running a HB now for 2 years and love it........Car is so good, I got another one. I run one in VTA and the other in Sedan Classes.

I also have a Tamiya 415 MRE that is simply dialed and run that from time to time, especially at Jackson............ The rent-a ride was me lending stuff out at times.......... BTW, good luck at the NATS, but then again, your running a HB.
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Old 09-24-2009, 02:13 PM   #17469
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Yeah Alex.. On-Road Nats are coming up less than a week....Why arent you coming? Looks like for now there is only 2 HB of the field(Me and Komkit). My TC is pretty good and his car has really come around. I just got done building a backup car also.

Was hoping HB USA was gonna make it out...(cough-cough...Korey.) I was gonna offer a place to stay!

but i guess we will have to just lay it down!!!

OH BTW.... i found out its gonna be on liverc.com........you can watch it. Hopefully i dont "break my neckbone" and screw up!!!

Korey, forgot to send ya my PM. will do it later.... perhaps some input for setups...

Barry has raced at this track also.... very smooth and extremely high bite!

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Old 09-24-2009, 02:25 PM   #17470
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I've been wanting a Cyclone TC for a long time now, and finally made the plunge! I've been racing an HPI Pro 2 up to now, so I can't wait to see the difference.

Quick question: Are most people using the lipo conversion, or are they just grinding the the rear mount? How much can you take off the rear mount and not hurt it? Finally, what are some good choices on lipos for the car?
Thanks!
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Old 09-24-2009, 02:30 PM   #17471
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I've been wanting a Cyclone TC for a long time now, and finally made the plunge! I've been racing an HPI Pro 2 up to now, so I can't wait to see the difference.

Quick question: Are most people using the lipo conversion, or are they just grinding the the rear mount? How much can you take off the rear mount and not hurt it? Finally, what are some good choices on lipos for the car?
Thanks!
Unless you are running 5k lipos, the Orion 3800's are fine and you don't need to grind anything. If you do, it wont affect the car at all.
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Old 09-24-2009, 05:19 PM   #17472
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I have been running cyclone for a while and really loved this car. I have been thinking of custom making a more rigid right middle block, because the original block flexes under load. I am talking about part number 67711.

I know a guy with CNC machines who may be willing do me a favor, but the cost is still pretty high. I probably need to make at least 20 pieces and each piece will probably cost around $50.

I like to know if anyone else may be interested in this part and share the cost. If I can gather enough people to share the cost, then I will have it done. Ideas and suggestion are welcome
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Old 09-24-2009, 05:27 PM   #17473
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I have been running cyclone for a while and really loved this car. I have been thinking of custom making a more rigid right middle block, because the original block flexes under load. I am talking about part number 67711.

I know a guy with CNC machines who may be willing do me a favor, but the cost is still pretty high. I probably need to make at least 20 pieces and each piece will probably cost around $50.

I like to know if anyone else may be interested in this part and share the cost. If I can gather enough people to share the cost, then I will have it done. Ideas and suggestion are welcome

you should look into the aluminum rear brace piece... dont know the part number..
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Old 09-24-2009, 07:15 PM   #17474
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Car is ready for the regionals this weekend. Korey and I are coming out the box with a surprise set up for this track but not new to him. Will keep everything a secret until I TQ I guess this race will be on live rc from what was posted. Scotty will be there holding it down in mod. His car in 13.5 is deadly though. Wish he would let me run it and he take my car for mod. Barry would have a hard time keeping up with me if I had Scotty's car. Hiro should demand that he let me run it to bring home the win
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Old 09-24-2009, 09:13 PM   #17475
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Car is ready for the regionals this weekend. Korey and I are coming out the box with a surprise set up for this track but not new to him. Will keep everything a secret until I TQ I guess this race will be on live rc from what was posted. Scotty will be there holding it down in mod. His car in 13.5 is deadly though. Wish he would let me run it and he take my car for mod. Barry would have a hard time keeping up with me if I had Scotty's car. Hiro should demand that he let me run it to bring home the win
I think you are crazy. Barry's car is great.
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