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Old 09-23-2009, 01:11 PM   #17446
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Guys, I'm having a hard time to find 6* caster hub. Could you guys give me some link to the shop that have it in stock. First choice would be the shop in US.

Thanks,
I got a set at Mimi's the last time I was there.
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Old 09-23-2009, 04:56 PM   #17447
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Great job Barry!! will you be posting here every so often??

BTW.. last time i saw ya was with Andrew Gray and his wife, Ray Derroch hanging out at Frederick MD after the races.... DRINKIN!

BTW "G" made an appearance at MIMIs last saturday.... i guess he missed racing. You gotta stop by and say Hi to MIMI.she misses ya! I told her to call Novak since you work there now.

Arv.
I will try to come on here and post a few times a week..I may even start a new thread...It depends on the demand...LOL

Tell Mimi I said Hi the next time you talk to her!

Barry
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Old 09-23-2009, 04:59 PM   #17448
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I know Barry was running them... I am pretty sure Andy was too.
I did have them in my car...I dont remember if Andy did or not. I know that when I put them in my car it felt like my car was much smoother going around the track. The DCJ's are AWESOME and very durable....as you can tell from the main when I hit a bunch of stuff and they still look great in my car.....LOL

Barry
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Old 09-23-2009, 05:01 PM   #17449
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Awesome run in Vegas Barry! Hope to see you at more big races in the future.

-Korey
Thanks Korey...I hope to make more races..It all depends on the powers that be!
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Old 09-23-2009, 05:40 PM   #17450
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I looking to get into a Cyclone S for racing 17.5 turn at my local track. Is there anything specific I should know about the kit as far as motor fitment? I know some motors are longer then others. I'm thinking that I'm going to go with the Novak Ballistic 17.5 motor any issues that I should be aware of? Also how does the S fare with Lipo fitments? I have an Orion 3400 mAh pack. Any mods need to be done to fit lipo packs?

Last edited by MonkeyFist; 09-23-2009 at 09:02 PM.
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Old 09-23-2009, 07:14 PM   #17451
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I will try to come on here and post a few times a week..I may even start a new thread...It depends on the demand...LOL

Tell Mimi I said Hi the next time you talk to her!

Barry
Barry, good to see you back racing. At Mimi Arv and I are only 2 hardcore Cyclone left in fact 7 cyclone between two of us

We need to go golfing in Thailand sometime
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Old 09-23-2009, 09:40 PM   #17452
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I did have them in my car...I dont remember if Andy did or not. I know that when I put them in my car it felt like my car was much smoother going around the track. The DCJ's are AWESOME and very durable....as you can tell from the main when I hit a bunch of stuff and they still look great in my car.....LOL

Barry
Andy ran regular universal all way around. (not MIP CVD)
He was running with the POM out drive combo but Andy had to change them to regular steel out drives after some breakage.
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Old 09-23-2009, 10:01 PM   #17453
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Originally Posted by MonkeyFist View Post
I looking to get into a Cyclone S for racing 17.5 turn at my local track. Is there anything specific I should know about the kit as far as motor fitment? I know some motors are longer then others. I'm thinking that I'm going to go with the Novak Ballistic 17.5 motor any issues that I should be aware of? Also how does the S fare with Lipo fitments? I have an Orion 3400 mAh pack. Any mods need to be done to fit lipo packs?
You will not have to make any mods to the Cyclone S to fit in a Novak 17.5 and the Orion 3400. You might have to take off the motor guard though.
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Old 09-23-2009, 10:04 PM   #17454
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You will not have to make any mods to the Cyclone S to fit in a Novak 17.5 and the Orion 3400. You might have to take off the motor guard though.
Thanks. I'm not too worried about the motor guard. I can always make a new one.
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Old 09-23-2009, 10:07 PM   #17455
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Thanks. I'm not too worried about the motor guard. I can always make a new one.
It's not needed.
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Old 09-24-2009, 05:18 AM   #17456
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Sometimes this is a little weird to explain, but I'll give it my best shot. I think of the shims under the camber link and the shims under the suspension blocks as two totally different things. It makes it a lot easier to understand, apply, and see the results on the track.

Shims under the camber link do change roll center, but it's a much finer adjustment of roll center. Personally, I don't think you are feeling this change. When you change the shims under the camber link, most people feel the change in the camber gain characteristics. On the cyclone, more shims under the pivot (flatter link) reduces camber change, so the camber setting stays mostly the same as the car rolls, but it gives a slightly lower roll center. Generally more shims will create slightly more initial grip (especially at high speed) and produce less overall grip through the middle and exit of the corner. Fewer shims (more angled link) does the opposite, and have more camber change (more negative camber as the suspension is compressed), but also gives a slightly higher roll center. Generally a more angled camber link will have less initial grip entering the corner, but more in the middle and exit.

Now for the suspension blocks. The suspension blocks do change roll center and camber change characteristics much like the camber link shims do... but the shims under the suspension blocks have a much greater effect on roll center than it does on the camber change characteristics. More shims under the suspension blocks raises the roll center. This gives more initial grip, less roll, but less overall grip in the middle and exit of the corner. Think of it as if the car feels... stiffer. Fewer shims will lower the roll center. The result is a car that rolls more and has more overall grip in the middle and exit of the corner. It does smooth out the car entering the corner though.

I hope that wasn't too confusing. Sometimes these adjustments can have varied effects depending on the track conditions and the rest of your setup. But it is a good guideline to work from. Hope this helped!

-Korey
Korey,

Thanks for the feedback.

What I have not been considering is the camber change (gain). I have been looking at the change purely from an RC perspective and assuming that a 0.5mm change on the upper arm shims is about the same as a 0.5mm change on the pivot block shims (noting that kit setting uses 2mm shims as default for pivot block shims and upper arm shims).

In the past, just as an experiment, I have tried zero and 3mm shims on the rear upper arm shims, and the handling does what one might expect from an RC perspective.

Heres one problem and solution, that I may need to rethink based on your new feedback.
My car was pushing in a high speed sweeper and being very taily in the tight technical sections of the track. A single change, which fixed both problems, was to make the rear camber LESS THAN (more upright than) the front camber. Settings were as follows:
-- Pivot Block Front Shims = Pivot Block Rear Shims = 1.5mm all round.
-- Front Upper Arm Shim = 0.75mm
-- Rear Upper Arm Shim = 2.0mm
-- Front Camber = 2.0 degs (BEFORE front = 1.0 degs)
-- Rear Camber = 1.0 degs (BEFORE rear = 1.5 degs)

The logic goes something like the following BEFORE the change. Too much rear tire touching track on high speed sweeper (as tire rolls under), and not enough tire touching track on slower technical section (tire camber too angled and not enough of tire contacting track). Solution was to reduce rear camber (more upright) and increase front camber (more angled) just for luck. Seemed to work, but maybe there is a better setup solution.

One of the very top drivers (who also runs a TC) mentioned that he uses zero shims under the rear pivot blocks, but I am unsure about his other settings.

Track is outdoor, asphalt, low grip, 1000' length, on side of hill.
An off camber corner.
Using Sorex 32 rubbers.

I'll need to take some time to think about this more.
Any comments appreciated.

Cheers
PS: I have attached my complete setup in tabular form.
Attached Thumbnails
Hot Bodies Cyclone-hobby-rc-hb-tc-setup-tables.gif  
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Old 09-24-2009, 06:04 AM   #17457
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Hiya,

Im trying to find a standard carpet (rubber tyre) setup sheet for my Cyclone TC but cant seem to find any , all i can find are for the moore-speed cyclone...

Any help is apprieciated
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Old 09-24-2009, 06:10 AM   #17458
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Hiya,

Im trying to find a standard carpet (rubber tyre) setup sheet for my Cyclone TC but cant seem to find any , all i can find are for the moore-speed cyclone...

Any help is apprieciated
Go a page or two back and you should see a attatchment from hi blow that i just asked for
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Old 09-24-2009, 06:16 AM   #17459
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Go a page or two back and you should see a attatchment from hi blow that i just asked for
hmmm the setup says pink springs back and front , is this right ? ive always used gold/silver ?
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Old 09-24-2009, 06:21 AM   #17460
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hmmm the setup says pink springs back and front , is this right ? ive always used gold/silver ?
Sorry i guess it was artwork there are so many HB drivers with the same avatar

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