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Old 09-23-2009, 12:25 AM   #17431
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Originally Posted by danny7878 View Post
Hi guys, what pinion gear do i run on a bone stock cyclone? I'm thinking of running a 13.5 brushless motor thanks.
DATS MY NAGA DANNY^.
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Old 09-23-2009, 01:09 AM   #17432
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Originally Posted by RCFREAK View Post
awesome Korey!! as im typing, im installing new TC arms on my moorespeed!!

as for topdeck mods, never tried any... how about the "Mid" top deck....most likely they are running the FRP plate?

Another question.... Did Barry Baker run the setups like Andy? or did he run his own........Man was he Blazin, till he "BROKE HIS NECKBONE!!!"
He tried a variety of things from what I understand. It sounds like he ended back to something like Andy's 2008 IIC setup with wide hex adapters.

-Korey
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Old 09-23-2009, 01:20 AM   #17433
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
He tried a variety of things from what I understand. It sounds like he ended back to something like Andy's 2008 IIC setup with wide hex adapters.

-Korey
G/day Korey

When is it best to use the wide hex's verses
the thin type hex's. Do either make a difference & would you notice the difference.

Cheers Jazza
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Old 09-23-2009, 01:47 AM   #17434
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G/day Korey

When is it best to use the wide hex's verses
the thin type hex's. Do either make a difference & would you notice the difference.

Cheers Jazza
Narrow hex's generally create more grip. The car becomes more reactive and more aggressive when entering the corner. There is a drawback though... The car isn't as stable overall. When it breaks traction, it will do it very abruptly. You will have to use narrow hex's in combination with other changes to make the car easier to drive and create the right amount of traction. I usually use them on tighter and more technical layouts.

Wide hex's are basically the opposite. They generally create less overall grip, but the car is very smooth and stable. I know some people use narrow hex's when the grip is very low... but I tend to go wider sometimes. Since it makes the car smoother, I find it easier to control. I also use wider hex's when the track conditions are VERY high grip. It prevents the car from lifting, or traction rolling. It just calms the car down as a whole.
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Old 09-23-2009, 02:18 AM   #17435
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Default Roll Centre

Hi,

(1) I am curious about RC changes via the pivot block shims and the upper arm shims. Do either of these changes affect something other than RC?

(2) I've found changing the pivot block shims to be tedious and time consuming, while changing the upper arm shims to be easy and quick. Could I leave the pivot block shims at 1.5mm (say), and adjust the RC only via the upper arm shims? What am I missing?

Thanks in advance
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Old 09-23-2009, 02:21 AM   #17436
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Default Hex's

Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Narrow hex's generally create more grip. The car becomes more reactive and more aggressive when entering the corner. There is a drawback though... The car isn't as stable overall. When it breaks traction, it will do it very abruptly. You will have to use narrow hex's in combination with other changes to make the car easier to drive and create the right amount of traction. I usually use them on tighter and more technical layouts.

Wide hex's are basically the opposite. They generally create less overall grip, but the car is very smooth and stable. I know some people use narrow hex's when the grip is very low... but I tend to go wider sometimes. Since it makes the car smoother, I find it easier to control. I also use wider hex's when the track conditions are VERY high grip. It prevents the car from lifting, or traction rolling. It just calms the car down as a whole.
Korey, thank you for that great explanation.
You are a genious at explaining exactly what happens & in a way that we can understand it.

Cheers & thanks Jazza
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Old 09-23-2009, 03:11 AM   #17437
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Ok dont worry guys. I have sorted this out :P The lower bulk heads where around the wrong way



Quote:
Originally Posted by abcd123 View Post
Hey Guys just got a cyclone TC. Have a small problem tho. When putting it together.

The manual say to put Z817 Aluminum Washers 3x6x2mm (Purple). Under all of the Pivot blocks. But if you do this on the front of the car. The A arms then rub
on the Bulkheads.


Did any one els find this ???
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Old 09-23-2009, 09:15 AM   #17438
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Originally Posted by RCFREAK View Post
awesome Korey!! as im typing, im installing new TC arms on my moorespeed!!

as for topdeck mods, never tried any... how about the "Mid" top deck....most likely they are running the FRP plate?

Another question.... Did Barry Baker run the setups like Andy? or did he run his own........Man was he Blazin, till he "BROKE HIS NECKBONE!!!"
As Korey said, I did try many things thoughout the weekend, in fact Andy, Hiro and myself were working very hard to find the right set up. It turned out that the set up that ran the best for me was the one I showed up to the race with(Andy's IIC 2008 set up) the only change that was made to this was the 6mm wide hexes, this was to make the car drive easier and it made it way more stable.

I did feel that I had a top 3 car in Mod and a car that could have won the 13.5 class. But as you said when the neckbone is not connected to the head it seems to fall off!

Barry
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Old 09-23-2009, 10:18 AM   #17439
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Originally Posted by Barry Baker View Post
As Korey said, I did try many things thoughout the weekend, in fact Andy, Hiro and myself were working very hard to find the right set up. It turned out that the set up that ran the best for me was the one I showed up to the race with(Andy's IIC 2008 set up) the only change that was made to this was the 6mm wide hexes, this was to make the car drive easier and it made it way more stable.

I did feel that I had a top 3 car in Mod and a car that could have won the 13.5 class. But as you said when the neckbone is not connected to the head it seems to fall off!

Barry
Did you guys ran the DCJ up front?
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Old 09-23-2009, 11:03 AM   #17440
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Originally Posted by billythekid View Post
Did you guys ran the DCJ up front?
I know Barry was running them... I am pretty sure Andy was too.
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Old 09-23-2009, 11:09 AM   #17441
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Great job Barry!! will you be posting here every so often??

BTW.. last time i saw ya was with Andrew Gray and his wife, Ray Derroch hanging out at Frederick MD after the races.... DRINKIN!

BTW "G" made an appearance at MIMIs last saturday.... i guess he missed racing. You gotta stop by and say Hi to MIMI.she misses ya! I told her to call Novak since you work there now.

Arv.
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Old 09-23-2009, 11:16 AM   #17442
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Originally Posted by cosmo1974 View Post
Hi,

(1) I am curious about RC changes via the pivot block shims and the upper arm shims. Do either of these changes affect something other than RC?

(2) I've found changing the pivot block shims to be tedious and time consuming, while changing the upper arm shims to be easy and quick. Could I leave the pivot block shims at 1.5mm (say), and adjust the RC only via the upper arm shims? What am I missing?

Thanks in advance
Sometimes this is a little weird to explain, but I'll give it my best shot. I think of the shims under the camber link and the shims under the suspension blocks as two totally different things. It makes it a lot easier to understand, apply, and see the results on the track.

Shims under the camber link do change roll center, but it's a much finer adjustment of roll center. Personally, I don't think you are feeling this change. When you change the shims under the camber link, most people feel the change in the camber gain characteristics. On the cyclone, more shims under the pivot (flatter link) reduces camber change, so the camber setting stays mostly the same as the car rolls, but it gives a slightly lower roll center. Generally more shims will create slightly more initial grip (especially at high speed) and produce less overall grip through the middle and exit of the corner. Fewer shims (more angled link) does the opposite, and have more camber change (more negative camber as the suspension is compressed), but also gives a slightly higher roll center. Generally a more angled camber link will have less initial grip entering the corner, but more in the middle and exit.

Now for the suspension blocks. The suspension blocks do change roll center and camber change characteristics much like the camber link shims do... but the shims under the suspension blocks have a much greater effect on roll center than it does on the camber change characteristics. More shims under the suspension blocks raises the roll center. This gives more initial grip, less roll, but less overall grip in the middle and exit of the corner. Think of it as if the car feels... stiffer. Fewer shims will lower the roll center. The result is a car that rolls more and has more overall grip in the middle and exit of the corner. It does smooth out the car entering the corner though.

I hope that wasn't too confusing. Sometimes these adjustments can have varied effects depending on the track conditions and the rest of your setup. But it is a good guideline to work from. Hope this helped!

-Korey
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Old 09-23-2009, 11:17 AM   #17443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry Baker View Post
As Korey said, I did try many things thoughout the weekend, in fact Andy, Hiro and myself were working very hard to find the right set up. It turned out that the set up that ran the best for me was the one I showed up to the race with(Andy's IIC 2008 set up) the only change that was made to this was the 6mm wide hexes, this was to make the car drive easier and it made it way more stable.

I did feel that I had a top 3 car in Mod and a car that could have won the 13.5 class. But as you said when the neckbone is not connected to the head it seems to fall off!

Barry
Awesome run in Vegas Barry! Hope to see you at more big races in the future.

-Korey
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Old 09-23-2009, 11:23 AM   #17444
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Whooooops.... Double post!
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Last edited by Korey Harbke; 09-23-2009 at 11:56 AM.
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Old 09-23-2009, 11:29 AM   #17445
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I know Barry was running them... I am pretty sure Andy was too.
Thanks. Do you know the weight of DCJ?
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