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Hot Bodies Cyclone

Old 09-22-2009, 05:27 PM
  #17416  
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A question for you guys, I bought an andy moore edition about a year ago second hand and was wondering if the rear alloy hub carriers are the same ones as these #67697 or are these revised. cheers
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Old 09-22-2009, 05:59 PM
  #17417  
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Originally Posted by ark
A question for you guys, I bought an andy moore edition about a year ago second hand and was wondering if the rear alloy hub carriers are the same ones as these #67697 or are these revised. cheers
Hello Darrell, Andy Moore Edition is not come with the alum. rear hub carriers. The ones from HB #67697 was just released about a couple months ago.
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Old 09-22-2009, 06:02 PM
  #17418  
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Thanks for that. I must have aftermarket ones.
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Old 09-22-2009, 07:13 PM
  #17419  
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For all these setups being posted... Can everyone please note if the specific setups are for the TC version cars or Moorespeed or the standard black edition.

I have gone through a few and got confused if the specific setup is for the TC which i run. But then again i also have the Moorespeed. I have talked to HB drivers and they mentioned there a slight differences in the cars...

For Example: standard front arms have 2 positions... option 1 or 2.
TC version front arms have 4 positions, 2 are added in
between the original postions..making total of 4. Position 2
is different from old car to new TC.

New TC rear arms have a total of 5! Position 3 on new arms
is different position on old arms...

Also setup sheets are different on each version cars...

Thanks!!! i know it would help with more info and details.....

I know Korey runs the TC. How about Hiro, Andy Moore (did he finally run the full TC car?) or is he still running his version car?


thank again!!
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Old 09-22-2009, 07:25 PM
  #17420  
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As far as I know, everyone uses the newer TC arms on the team, including Hiro and Andy. The old ones are pretty heavy.

Positions 1, 3 and 5 are the same holes as the old rear arms. Numbers are probably different... but 3 from the new rear arm, is equivilent to the middle position on the old arm (not sure what number they use... probably 2). 2 on the new arm is right inbetween the middle and outer hole on the old arms.

position 2 and 4 on the new arms is equivalent to the holes on the old arms. 3 is right inbetween the old arms holes, and 1 is half a hole further out than the outermost hole.

Not sure if that helps any... Maybe I'll make some sort of a diagram/cheat sheet later on if I have time. Pretty much everyone uses the newer arms on their setups though.

-Korey
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Old 09-22-2009, 07:26 PM
  #17421  
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Oh, almost forgot. Andy and Hiro ran standard top decks that were cut to give a little more flex. Other than that... they were pretty standard.

-Korey
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Old 09-22-2009, 08:02 PM
  #17422  
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awesome Korey!! as im typing, im installing new TC arms on my moorespeed!!

as for topdeck mods, never tried any... how about the "Mid" top deck....most likely they are running the FRP plate?

Another question.... Did Barry Baker run the setups like Andy? or did he run his own........Man was he Blazin, till he "BROKE HIS NECKBONE!!!"
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Old 09-22-2009, 10:53 PM
  #17423  
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Hi guys, what pinion gear do i run on a bone stock cyclone? I'm thinking of running a 13.5 brushless motor thanks.
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Old 09-22-2009, 11:25 PM
  #17424  
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Originally Posted by danny7878
Hi guys, what pinion gear do i run on a bone stock cyclone? I'm thinking of running a 13.5 brushless motor thanks.
DATS MY NAGA DANNY^.
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Old 09-23-2009, 12:09 AM
  #17425  
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Originally Posted by RCFREAK
awesome Korey!! as im typing, im installing new TC arms on my moorespeed!!

as for topdeck mods, never tried any... how about the "Mid" top deck....most likely they are running the FRP plate?

Another question.... Did Barry Baker run the setups like Andy? or did he run his own........Man was he Blazin, till he "BROKE HIS NECKBONE!!!"
He tried a variety of things from what I understand. It sounds like he ended back to something like Andy's 2008 IIC setup with wide hex adapters.

-Korey
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Old 09-23-2009, 12:20 AM
  #17426  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
He tried a variety of things from what I understand. It sounds like he ended back to something like Andy's 2008 IIC setup with wide hex adapters.

-Korey
G/day Korey

When is it best to use the wide hex's verses
the thin type hex's. Do either make a difference & would you notice the difference.

Cheers Jazza
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Old 09-23-2009, 12:47 AM
  #17427  
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Originally Posted by Jazza
G/day Korey

When is it best to use the wide hex's verses
the thin type hex's. Do either make a difference & would you notice the difference.

Cheers Jazza
Narrow hex's generally create more grip. The car becomes more reactive and more aggressive when entering the corner. There is a drawback though... The car isn't as stable overall. When it breaks traction, it will do it very abruptly. You will have to use narrow hex's in combination with other changes to make the car easier to drive and create the right amount of traction. I usually use them on tighter and more technical layouts.

Wide hex's are basically the opposite. They generally create less overall grip, but the car is very smooth and stable. I know some people use narrow hex's when the grip is very low... but I tend to go wider sometimes. Since it makes the car smoother, I find it easier to control. I also use wider hex's when the track conditions are VERY high grip. It prevents the car from lifting, or traction rolling. It just calms the car down as a whole.
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Old 09-23-2009, 01:18 AM
  #17428  
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Hi,

(1) I am curious about RC changes via the pivot block shims and the upper arm shims. Do either of these changes affect something other than RC?

(2) I've found changing the pivot block shims to be tedious and time consuming, while changing the upper arm shims to be easy and quick. Could I leave the pivot block shims at 1.5mm (say), and adjust the RC only via the upper arm shims? What am I missing?

Thanks in advance
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Old 09-23-2009, 01:21 AM
  #17429  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
Narrow hex's generally create more grip. The car becomes more reactive and more aggressive when entering the corner. There is a drawback though... The car isn't as stable overall. When it breaks traction, it will do it very abruptly. You will have to use narrow hex's in combination with other changes to make the car easier to drive and create the right amount of traction. I usually use them on tighter and more technical layouts.

Wide hex's are basically the opposite. They generally create less overall grip, but the car is very smooth and stable. I know some people use narrow hex's when the grip is very low... but I tend to go wider sometimes. Since it makes the car smoother, I find it easier to control. I also use wider hex's when the track conditions are VERY high grip. It prevents the car from lifting, or traction rolling. It just calms the car down as a whole.
Korey, thank you for that great explanation.
You are a genious at explaining exactly what happens & in a way that we can understand it.

Cheers & thanks Jazza
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Old 09-23-2009, 02:11 AM
  #17430  
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Ok dont worry guys. I have sorted this out :P The lower bulk heads where around the wrong way



Originally Posted by abcd123
Hey Guys just got a cyclone TC. Have a small problem tho. When putting it together.

The manual say to put Z817 Aluminum Washers 3x6x2mm (Purple). Under all of the Pivot blocks. But if you do this on the front of the car. The A arms then rub
on the Bulkheads.


Did any one els find this ???
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