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Hot Bodies Cyclone

Old 09-20-2009, 05:00 AM
  #17386  
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Originally Posted by abcd123
Hey Guys just got a cyclone TC. Have a small problem tho. When putting it together.

The manual say to put Z817 Aluminum Washers 3x6x2mm (Purple). Under all of the Pivot blocks. But if you do this on the front of the car. The A arms then rub
on the Bulkheads.


Did any one els find this ???
Rubbing on the pivot block, yes.
Once you have set the droop (via ride height and downstops) the arms should just clear the pivot block.
Cheers
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Old 09-20-2009, 05:47 AM
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Guys, I'm having a hard time to find 6* caster hub. Could you guys give me some link to the shop that have it in stock. First choice would be the shop in US.

Thanks,
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Old 09-20-2009, 08:00 AM
  #17388  
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Originally Posted by komkit
Guys, I'm having a hard time to find 6* caster hub. Could you guys give me some link to the shop that have it in stock. First choice would be the shop in US.
Tower! But I need a few more sets, so leave some for me.....

Mike Slaughter
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Old 09-20-2009, 08:28 AM
  #17389  
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Originally Posted by abcd123
Hey Guys just got a cyclone TC. Have a small problem tho. When putting it together.

The manual say to put Z817 Aluminum Washers 3x6x2mm (Purple). Under all of the Pivot blocks. But if you do this on the front of the car. The A arms then rub
on the Bulkheads.


Did any one els find this ???
If you look at most of the setups you will notice that they usually have only 1mm or 1.5mm under the blocks. This will help a lot.
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Old 09-20-2009, 09:41 AM
  #17390  
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What size shims under the Blocks will be best for Low grip Carpet Track?
You know the ones under the Toe Blocks...
Also I have WCE and has 2.5 front Toe Block is that ok or should I change it?
And Last one could you please Advice me a Good setup for Low grip small,Tight Carpet Track 13.5T Rubber
Thanx in advance
I want to try that Shelf Queen
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Old 09-21-2009, 03:55 AM
  #17391  
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My A arms on the front rub badly on the bottum of the bulkheads. With the 2mm washers. IF I take them out its fine. Its like they are to big and they raze the arms up to high.



Originally Posted by cosmo1974
Rubbing on the pivot block, yes.
Once you have set the droop (via ride height and downstops) the arms should just clear the pivot block.
Cheers
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Old 09-21-2009, 08:59 AM
  #17392  
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Originally Posted by yokemad
What size shims under the Blocks will be best for Low grip Carpet Track?
You know the ones under the Toe Blocks...
Also I have WCE and has 2.5 front Toe Block is that ok or should I change it?
And Last one could you please Advice me a Good setup for Low grip small,Tight Carpet Track 13.5T Rubber
Thanx in advance
I want to try that Shelf Queen
For low bite track, I would recommend you to start with 1mm under the suspension blocks all way around. You can go up to 1.5mm when the bite come up. Here is Andy Moore's setup at IIC vegas a couple weeks ago. I think it works well at your small tight carpet track too.

<Front>
Shock position- No2 on arms/No3 on the tower(from the inside)
Camber link- Inside hole/3mm shims
Droop- 5.5mm on the gauge
Hex Hubs- 5mm
Suspension Blocks- F/F1.5deg
Shocks- Spring/Pinks, Oil/45wt, Piston/1.1mm 3holes
Sway bar- 1.4mm (Silver)
Camber-1.5deg
Castor- 4deg
Front Drive- Spool
Ackerman- 3mm
1.5mm shims under the suspension blocks
Arm spacing- 2.75mm in front of arms/0mm back

<Rear>
Shock position- No3 on arms/No4 on the tower
Camber link- Inside hole/2mm shims
Droop- 5.0mm on the gauge
Hex Hubs- 5mm
Suspension Blocks- 3deg
Shocks- Spring/Pinks, Oil/45wt, Piston/1.1mm 3holes
Sway bar- 1.2mm (Copper)
Camber- 2.0deg
Rear hub Spacing- 2.0mm in front of the hub/0.75mm back
Arm Spacing- 2.0mm in front/0.75mm back
1.5mm shims under the suspension blocks

*Started with 1.0mm under the suspension blocks all around and raised up to 1.5mm as the traction came up.

Hope it helps.
-Hiro
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Old 09-21-2009, 09:31 AM
  #17393  
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Originally Posted by rc-zombies
all my cells are dead..they haven't been used in 2 years.. soon as I get some decent Lipos.. I'll come out and play... along with my F1!
Awesome! Running 13.5?
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Old 09-21-2009, 09:44 AM
  #17394  
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Thanx Hiro
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Old 09-21-2009, 05:32 PM
  #17395  
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Default can you chnge the original cyclone chassis to the new tc chassis for carpet

can you chnge the orginal chassis from the black version to the hotbodies tc well everything cross reference thxs reggie
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Old 09-21-2009, 05:56 PM
  #17396  
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The chassis' bolt patterns are the same for the O.G. Black Ver. and the newer TC. Everything will bolt right up to the new chassis.
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Old 09-21-2009, 06:07 PM
  #17397  
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Hi Korey, have you done any serious testing with the DCJ shafts? Can you share your experience with them?

I also like to know the weight of each DCJ shaft.

Thanks.
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Old 09-21-2009, 06:35 PM
  #17398  
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Hiro... Andy's setup that you just posted, is that running the TC car or the moorespeed? his front shock poition on number 2 means he is running the TC version arms...

BTW can anyone explain the differences in ackerman, For Example.. 4mm and lets just say 1mm... what will it cause in "Turn In" and "Exit" steering? or is it just for easier to drive? I know if the ackerman is changed, toe MUST be adjusted back to what you had....

Arv.
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Old 09-21-2009, 06:51 PM
  #17399  
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Billy- I have not tired them yet... yea I know I'm a failure lol. I will soon though. I'm just waiting on them in the mail.

RCFREAK- Ackerman adjustment can have some varied effects depending on how much grip the track has... but usually more shims (like 4mm) makes the car more reactive initially, and less steering through the middle and exit. Fewer shims (like 1mm) will generally smooth the car out a bit, but give more steering through the middle and exit.

Hope that helps
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Old 09-21-2009, 06:56 PM
  #17400  
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I know I'm going to get flamed a lot for asking this, but can anyone from HB confirm that the Cyclone will continue to be developed? I've been hearing quite a few 'rumors' that the car is either going to be dropped or replaced by a whole new model given its age.
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