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Old 09-02-2009, 12:13 AM   #17281
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Hey guys you don't have to get the dcj drive shafts. i don't have any chatter at all with my worlds edition mip cvd's. But i also have shortened the wheel base at front. I do this for 2 reasons!! 1st reason is to move weight over the front of the car ( i also adjust rear spacers so that they are all in front giving it some wheel base back and shifting more weight forward). 2nd reason is to eliminate excess chatter. when you do this you create a small angle which means when the inside wheel is hard over there is less angle on it and a bit more on the outside creating less chatter. Now this is my theory for most cars but with the mip cvd's i have no chatter at all. but i never run over 90% steering lock as i don't beleive you need it. But from i didn't have chatter at 100% either!! Just some food for thought and i recommend to try! as i would not pay 70 when i can run the losi ones for 35 a pair and get rebuild parts. sorry hb!!
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Old 09-02-2009, 04:32 AM   #17282
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Hi guys
Not new to TC racing, but new to hot bodies cars.....i've been offered a Cyclone TC, black aluminum edition...which if it's in good condition i'll be taking it. just wondering what the differences are between the black aluminum and the current car ?

any help would be greatly appreciated
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Old 09-02-2009, 05:17 AM   #17283
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Hi guys
Not new to TC racing, but new to hot bodies cars.....i've been offered a Cyclone TC, black aluminum edition...which if it's in good condition i'll be taking it. just wondering what the differences are between the black aluminum and the current car ?

any help would be greatly appreciated
I don't think there is anything different but the 16T pully. I like the look of the black car the best!

As as far as the wheel chatter. It is dut to the cvd's being locked out all the way until the start to bind up. Thats what causes it. Extreme wheel lock in turns is the problem. It's like that in a lot of cars. The old sedan I das had it so bad, the whhel would LOCK up totaly stopped...

Last edited by Kazzamoto; 09-02-2009 at 05:20 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 09-02-2009, 06:14 AM   #17284
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Now that everyone is talking about foam here is my Asphalt set-up. I've been working on it for the past 2 months and seem to endup where I started. I haven't tryed any of the option parts but I can't seem to desire anything more out of the car. It has a great amount of stearing but will not loose the rear end. The car just feels like it rotates so well that I don't need to try any option parts. Let me know what you think or if you see anthing that I should try.
Rear toe isn't marked.
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Old 09-02-2009, 09:03 AM   #17285
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Now that everyone is talking about foam here is my Asphalt set-up. I've been working on it for the past 2 months and seem to endup where I started. I haven't tryed any of the option parts but I can't seem to desire anything more out of the car. It has a great amount of stearing but will not loose the rear end. The car just feels like it rotates so well that I don't need to try any option parts. Let me know what you think or if you see anthing that I should try.
I don't get your droop note? it sounds like you are measuring sag instead of droop?
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Old 09-02-2009, 09:51 AM   #17286
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I don't get your droop note? it sounds like you are measuring sag instead of droop?
I'm pretty sure he meant for the droop to have 3mm more up travel over the ride height.
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Old 09-02-2009, 10:18 AM   #17287
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I'm pretty sure he meant for the droop to have 3mm more up travel over the ride height.
That's what I think too but that is called sag. I don't see how to measure that consistantly as unloading the car the tire contact patch would unload and change the measured diameter.

I measure droop with the wheels off and ride height with them on.
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Old 09-02-2009, 12:53 PM   #17288
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Rear toe isn't marked.
Sorry 3*
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I don't get your droop note? it sounds like you are measuring sag instead of droop?
Set ride height at 5mm. Put the chassis at 8 and adjust it till you have a full contact patch. I've never heard f it referd to as sag.
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I'm pretty sure he meant for the droop to have 3mm more up travel over the ride height.
Yep

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Originally Posted by balistic View Post
That's what I think too but that is called sag. I don't see how to measure that consistantly as unloading the car the tire contact patch would unload and change the measured diameter.

I measure droop with the wheels off and ride height with them on.
I first put the car on blocks and measure the axel height. On 20mm blocks it's 45.5mm to the board. That is how I get close. Then I check "actual droop" whitch is measured with the tires on. Usually It's super close. This will also depend on your camber.
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Old 09-02-2009, 02:51 PM   #17289
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Sorry 3*

Set ride height at 5mm. Put the chassis at 8 and adjust it till you have a full contact patch. I've never heard f it referd to as sag.
Yep
That is what it's called on bikes. The amount the bike will droop (sag) with the weight of itself and the rider from topped out suspension, typically 1/3 of the travel.

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I first put the car on blocks and measure the axel height. On 20mm blocks it's 45.5mm to the board. That is how I get close. Then I check "actual droop" whitch is measured with the tires on. Usually It's super close. This will also depend on your camber.
That makes sense, I have been laying the car on the setup board and measuring the outside suspension pin for droop.

The way you do it you are getting the actual sag number.

How are you checking droop with the tires on?

Now you got me thinking I should be doing something different.
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Old 09-02-2009, 03:22 PM   #17290
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I know of 3 ways.
1 Measuring about ride height with the tires on. (I do this)
2 Measuring the axel height with wheels off. (I do this also)
3 Measuring bottom of the arm with a droop gague. (Most setups use this)

I don't think anyone is right or wrong but they all measure different things.

I do it with the tires on because the size of the tire will change where the arm will be. Just like it does with the ride height. A good example is Sorex Vs. RP. The sorex tire is a little taller whitch will add ride height and take away droop. So if you use a different way just make sure that you know what tire the person is using.
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Old 09-02-2009, 03:29 PM   #17291
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As a HB"s agreement, why don't we all measure the droop by the center of the outer hinge pin to the setup board? isn't it easier to share the info?
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Old 09-02-2009, 04:03 PM   #17292
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
As a HB"s agreement, why don't we all measure the droop by the center of the outer hinge pin to the setup board? isn't it easier to share the info?
That's entirely out of the question. We need to each make a NEW way of measuring droop to confuse you further!
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Old 09-02-2009, 04:52 PM   #17293
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So i have to find my own way then.....
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Old 09-02-2009, 04:59 PM   #17294
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I don't know anything. I just drive the car. Ask my pit man.
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Old 09-02-2009, 09:17 PM   #17295
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Originally Posted by POUNDITRACING View Post
I know of 3 ways.
1 Measuring about ride height with the tires on. (I do this)
2 Measuring the axel height with wheels off. (I do this also)
3 Measuring bottom of the arm with a droop gague. (Most setups use this)

I don't think anyone is right or wrong but they all measure different things.

I do it with the tires on because the size of the tire will change where the arm will be. Just like it does with the ride height. A good example is Sorex Vs. RP. The sorex tire is a little taller whitch will add ride height and take away droop. So if you use a different way just make sure that you know what tire the person is using.
I still don't see the "how" to measure droop with the wheels on?
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