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Old 08-25-2009, 03:48 PM   #17251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy_F View Post
Hi all. Long time lurker, first time poster here. I used to race quite a lot around 5 years ago, then dropped out of the hobby to take up real car racing (drifting). I've since been gaining interest back in RC, to the point now where I'm really enthusiastic and I'm dying to take it up again. After a lot of research, I've got my heart set on a Cyclone. I was all set to buy a TC at next payday, but I've recently just located a brand new Hara edition for sale. I'm now confused about what to do. Both cars have their positives and negatives for me from what I can see, but I still can't decide. Which logically would you guys say the better car is on paper? Can anyone with experience give me an insight into the best choice? I'm currently thinking of buying the Hara now (being discontinued and all), then maybe picking up a TC later when I can afford it. What would you reccomend?

Also (off topic of Cyclones, sorry) I've still got a lot of my old gear, including a Novak TC Cyclone 2, and an LRP IPC V7.1, which were pretty much the best speedo's available back when I was active. Obviously these only work with brushed motors. At the very least I'll have to buy myself a new motor (along with a new set of batteries, but thats a different story) but would I be handicapping myself by not getting a brushless setup? Is there much difference between a brushed motor and an equivilant brushless? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm hopelessly out of date with all this stuff now. Starting to pick it all up again slowly though. Thanks very much for any replies guys.
Hi Andy
Well 5 years is a very long time being out of the game but its good to hear you have the bug again, once an RC Racer always an RC Racer eh

Well you speak of buying the Hara edition, and would be a good starting point to get back into the sport, and is reletivley easy to get spares. The trouble atm is finding a TC anyway, so go with the Hara for now.
Re, the electrics, well now we go into a whole new eara on this one, but I guess it depends on what class your talking about doing, but I would go for the GM120 esc, very reliable, and has stacks of power, and best of all,'Timming advance' for your motors, especially for 13.5 and 10.5
Well I hope ive helped you make your mind up, and I see you are UK driver, not sure where though, but maybe you would like to come try your hand at the 09/2010 Much More Rug Racer series
Cheers Malc TCCFM
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Old 08-25-2009, 04:57 PM   #17252
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Default Spur / Pinion combo

For the IIC, 17.5 foam class w/60mm tires. I just got the car and need a suggestion about spur/pinion gears for this race.
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Old 08-26-2009, 11:19 PM   #17253
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For the IIC, 17.5 foam class w/60mm tires. I just got the car and need a suggestion about spur/pinion gears for this race.
Hello Kazzamoto,

The good starting point for 17.5 is around 4.2 FDR if you have 18 teeth center pulleys ( 92 spur / 47 pinion x 2.16666 internal ). But it's depends on what ESC and motor combo you gonna use.
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Old 08-27-2009, 06:53 AM   #17254
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Thank you.... KEWL! Yes, 18T.
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:33 AM   #17255
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Hi guys, im thinkin of buying a cyclone S what is is capable of can it hit the track? Im not a racer but would like to hit the track from time to time.

Can the cyclone s handle brushless if so what set up would be good?

Thank guys
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Old 08-28-2009, 09:36 AM   #17256
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Default XRay T2 parts

I was racing my Cyclone S for the first time last night and broke one of my C-hubs. a fellow racer offered me a C-hub from an Xray T2 and it worked fine. Has anyone else had experience using Xray parts and if so which ones. I've found that the original plastic parts are not very strong or durable. I have decided that I will upgrade parts on a need by need basis. Should I try to stay with the HB/HPI Carbon Graphite parts or use the Xray Composite parts where I can?

Also, I need to do something with the front drive. I'm running VTA on asphalt. Should I go with a Solid Spool Axle or a One-way Differential (or are they the same thing?) I see them listed in different places with both names but, they look functionally the same. Hot Bodies also sells it in 3 different versions, One Way Diff - HBS61402 and Solid Spool Axle - HBS61334 and then just Solid Axle - HBS61086.

Can anyone help with any of this?
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Old 08-28-2009, 10:35 AM   #17257
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Originally Posted by Phil C View Post
Hi Tom,

The BRCA national at Snetteton went ok, we had the most number of cars in the main (3). Andy Moore finished 2nd, Ben Cosgrove finished 5th and I finished 8th.

I personally wasn't very happy with the setup I ended up on as it was super aggresive which made it difficult to be consistant. Tyre strategies really came into play as well!

I ended up running my car with the 1 piece topdeck, but tried a std car in one of the finals and have a feeling with some setup work it would have been better lol. I would recommend trying the cut topdecks in lower grip conditions and sticking with the std ones when the grip is medium/high.

As others have said the RC track is on the same site as the full size circuit yes .

Hi Phil, can you please post the setups you guys ran at the euros?
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Old 08-28-2009, 10:45 AM   #17258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Protus View Post
I was racing my Cyclone S for the first time last night and broke one of my C-hubs. a fellow racer offered me a C-hub from an Xray T2 and it worked fine. Has anyone else had experience using Xray parts and if so which ones. I've found that the original plastic parts are not very strong or durable. I have decided that I will upgrade parts on a need by need basis. Should I try to stay with the HB/HPI Carbon Graphite parts or use the Xray Composite parts where I can?

Also, I need to do something with the front drive. I'm running VTA on asphalt. Should I go with a Solid Spool Axle or a One-way Differential (or are they the same thing?) I see them listed in different places with both names but, they look functionally the same. Hot Bodies also sells it in 3 different versions, One Way Diff - HBS61402 and Solid Spool Axle - HBS61334 and then just Solid Axle - HBS61086.

Can anyone help with any of this?
1. The plastic parts are going to be more durable.
2. On asphalt with rubber tires most people run a spool.
3. 61402 is a o-way and a spool. You put a pin through the axel to make it a spool.
4. 61334 is just a spool.
5. 61086 is a solid axel with different drive cups.

Spool = Solid axel
one-way = Front tires are not affected by the brakes
Diff = Tires react to both acceleration and brakes but can also spin backwards ( not a good thing.)

Hope this helps.
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Old 08-28-2009, 10:48 AM   #17259
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Originally Posted by Protus View Post
I was racing my Cyclone S for the first time last night and broke one of my C-hubs. a fellow racer offered me a C-hub from an Xray T2 and it worked fine. Has anyone else had experience using Xray parts and if so which ones. I've found that the original plastic parts are not very strong or durable. I have decided that I will upgrade parts on a need by need basis. Should I try to stay with the HB/HPI Carbon Graphite parts or use the Xray Composite parts where I can?

Also, I need to do something with the front drive. I'm running VTA on asphalt. Should I go with a Solid Spool Axle or a One-way Differential (or are they the same thing?) I see them listed in different places with both names but, they look functionally the same. Hot Bodies also sells it in 3 different versions, One Way Diff - HBS61402 and Solid Spool Axle - HBS61334 and then just Solid Axle - HBS61086.

Can anyone help with any of this?
Hi Protus, I would recommend that you stay with original Hot Bodies parts, so that you won't mess up the suspension geometry.

Regarding your questions on Spool or One Way. Normally, spool is much easier to drive, but One Way provides you with more steering off power. I would summarize the Pros and Cons for Spool below, so you can make the appropriate decisions:

Spool - Pros
==============
1) Easier to drive. It provides less off power steering than One Way, but more controllable.
2) You can effectively use brake. This could be important during head to head racing, where you want to control your lines when battling with other cars.
3) Works well on lower traction surface and with motors lower than 10T. You generally do not want to run One Way with less than 10T on rubber/asphalt because it would be too difficult to drive.

Spool - Cons
==============
1) Front tires and driveshafts wear out quicker.
2) Slightly less corner speed than One Way.


I would recommend that you get the universal one way/spool from Cyclone TC, which you can switch between One Way and Spool extremely easily. This way, you can do your own tests and see which suits you the best. Sorry, I can't remember the part number.

Hope the above helps
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Old 08-28-2009, 01:55 PM   #17260
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Great info guys, thanks a million.
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Old 08-30-2009, 08:49 AM   #17261
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Korey, what front axle would you recomend for a carpet track (36 x100) ? We're running Jaco blues. Layout is technical. Would the double carden axle be good ?
Have you noticed a difference between the two axles ?
Thanks.
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Old 08-30-2009, 09:19 AM   #17262
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It depends on what spool, and which outdrives you are running. With the 2 way that comes in the cyclone TC kit, I like to use the ver 2 universals.

For the most overall initial steering, the Ver 3 spool with POM outdrives and the ver 2 universals will be awesome. I'm not sure why, but I think it might have something to do with less gyroscopic effect from the heavy components that most spools come with, so it allows the car to roll more, and quicker. It isn't so durable on tracks with boards though, the outdrives can break. The POM outdrives have more slop in them than the other options for outdrives or spools. so the ver 2 universals help get rid of some of the slop in the whole system. They fit tighter inside the wheel hub bearings. Having the right amount of slop seems to help reduce chatter.

For better durability use the ver 3 spool with the steel outdrives, and MIP CVD's. The steel outdrives have almost no slop in them at all, so you need to create slop somewhere else in the system. The MIP CVD's don't fit as tight in the bearings, so then that introduces a little more slop into the system. I use this as a default usually because it provides a good compromise of steering and durability. I think it's what Hara usually uses as well.

The DCJs will generally provide less overall turn in, but give more steering throughout the rest of the corner in comparison to standard drive shafts. On paper, they should always be better as they are much more efficient, but they sometimes don't give you the right "feel". It's another tuning aid to keep in your box. If you can run the DCJ's and just get initial turn in through the suspension setup, then I think they will be the way to go.

I hope that wasn't too confusing. If you have any more questions, please feel free to ask.

-Korey
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Old 08-31-2009, 08:38 AM   #17263
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lipo upper deck conv. set
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Old 08-31-2009, 08:44 AM   #17264
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Thanks for the info Korey !
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Old 08-31-2009, 09:04 AM   #17265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
The DCJs will generally provide less overall turn in, but give more steering throughout the rest of the corner in comparison to standard drive shafts. On paper, they should always be better as they are much more efficient, but they sometimes don't give you the right "feel". It's another tuning aid to keep in your box. If you can run the DCJ's and just get initial turn in through the suspension setup, then I think they will be the way to go.

-Korey
DCJ shafts actually give you way more overall steering.

More turn-in, more later it feels like running with one-way car. I have also heard that other brand's double joint drive shafts provide less overall turn in, but our 90 degrees double joint style is different. I don't think Korey has tried our HB DCJ yet but i'm sure he will soon.

i really recommend to try them if you are looking for more steering.

Thanks,
-Hiro
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