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Old 08-12-2009, 09:22 AM   #17176
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If anyone is interested, there are 5 HB Cyclone TC kits at RC MART (I emailed them a couple of days ago to confirm stock). Strangely, none of the other mail order websites are reporting any stock.
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:37 AM   #17177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luic View Post
A trick to avoid being broken is boiled in water, it will make them more flexible.
About 10 minutes, is more sufficient.
Thanks for your tip about boiled in water.
But i want to know if this could work also on old version arms?
In fact i don't think is enough just changing suspension arms.
Our new track's corners is made by concrete, they are really tough, i saw a gas car broke arm in 1st lap, was just a slightly touch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil C View Post
Yes thats the correct part number for the old style arms.

The old front arms are swept back, so you will need to shim them differently to the TC arms in order to maintain the same wheelbase. With the TC arms I run 2.75mm at the front and 0mm behind. With the old style wisbones I run 0.75mm at the front and 2mm behind.

Hope this helps
Thanks for your help about the wheelbase!
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Old 08-14-2009, 06:15 PM   #17178
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anyone have the spring rates for all the hara springs?
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Old 08-14-2009, 06:26 PM   #17179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicko View Post
anyone have the spring rates for all the hara springs?
Here you go:

Brand/Colour......Comp./ Ratio
Hara Yellow..........12.89lb/ 230g
Hara White...........13.98lb/ 250g
Hara Black............15.11lb/ 270g
Hot Bodies Blue.....15.3lb/ 273g
Hara Purple...........16.24lb/ 290g
Hot Bodies Silver....16.9lb/ 302g
Hara Red..............17.36lb/ 310g
Hot Bodies Pink......18.0lb/320g
Hot Bodies Gold......19.0lb/340g
Hot Bodies White....20.3lb/363g
Hot Bodies Yellow...21.7lb/388g
Hot Bodies Red.......22.4lb/400g

Last edited by billythekid; 08-23-2009 at 12:55 AM.
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Old 08-14-2009, 06:39 PM   #17180
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thanks
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Old 08-15-2009, 07:43 AM   #17181
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Hi everyone, new owner of a second-hand Cyclone S...

Did a quick search and haven't found what I want to know, is there a DIY solution to protecting the diff outdrives (standard Cyclone ball diffs as far as I can tell) from the dogbones? My car doesn't have the CVD's, they're free-floating dogbones and I'm a little worried that over time they'll just kind of eat into the outdrive aluminum.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
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Old 08-15-2009, 11:42 AM   #17182
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Even universals aren't connected on the diff side, they float like dog bones.
It will wear in time, but it takes a long time unless you are running serious power!
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Old 08-15-2009, 12:20 PM   #17183
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Hi guys, in fact i couldn't find more genuine diff cushion for alum. diff. in any shop.
Could somebody tell me if that 1 of 3racing (CY-08A) could use on HB original pro spec alum. diff. of TC, please?

Best regards
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Old 08-15-2009, 01:20 PM   #17184
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Quote:
Thanks for your tip about boiled in water.
But i want to know if this could work also on old version arms?
In fact i don't think is enough just changing suspension arms.
Our new track's corners is made by concrete, they are really tough, i saw a gas car broke arm in 1st lap, was just a slightly touch.
Yes, it work, for all plastic parts, include the tyres, but without rubber, only rings, this make the plastic compound more flex, does not prevent you from being broken, but it is more shock-resistant.
This change the structure of compound, and the behavior, and is posssible you need a litle change in setup, because is a litle more soft suspension.

Greetings, Luis C.
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Old 08-15-2009, 01:35 PM   #17185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mac853 View Post
Hi guys, in fact i couldn't find more genuine diff cushion for alum. diff. in any shop.
Could somebody tell me if that 1 of 3racing (CY-08A) could use on HB original pro spec alum. diff. of TC, please?

Best regards
Yes can !
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Old 08-15-2009, 06:06 PM   #17186
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I'm thinking of bailing my B44 and going D4 just for kix. I know nothing about it, but had a few questions I hope the forum could direct me with........


How much money will I need to spend after I buy the kit? Like absolutley neccessary things. ie) Hara's spring kit. LiPo Tray?

This car looks just like a B44 but more expensive, and I'm a sucker for that crap. Ha!!
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Old 08-15-2009, 06:19 PM   #17187
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Hot Bodies Cyclone D4 EP buggy

try here for a quicker and better answer
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Old 08-15-2009, 07:09 PM   #17188
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Any of the experienced RCGT drivers have a setup for this class..running on parking lot surface... running a black cyclone. thanks!!

LMK thanks
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Old 08-15-2009, 09:07 PM   #17189
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I tried Korey's set up which works pretty well for me on parking lot races as well as indoor asphalt.

parking lot/low-medium asphalt setup now (90 deg air temp).

Front:

Spring: HPI Pro 4 Pink
Oil: Losi 70wt, zero rebound, no foam
Piston: 2 hole 1.2mm (the stock one)
Shock Position: 2 on arm, 3 on tower
Camber Link Position: long, 2mm under inner pivot
Camber: 2 deg
Caster: 4 deg
Toe block: 2.5 deg (try a 2.... it'll give a little bit crisper turn in)
Shims under suspension and toe blocks: 1.0mm
Droop: 5.5mm off of a gauge
Toe: 0
Wheelbase: .7mm behind arm, 2mm in front
Ackerman: 3mm on center bell crank
Front drive: spool
Swaybar: silver (1.4mm with 2mm gap in the links)

Rear:

Spring: HPI pro 4 blue
Oil: Losi 70wt, zero rebound, no foam
Piston: 1.2mm 2 hole
Shock position: 4 on tower, 3 on arm
Camber link position: long on bulkhead (1mm under pivot) and short on rear hub (0mm under it).
Toe block: 3 deg
Rear Hub: 0 deg (stock)
Swaybar: copper (1.2mm) with 3mm gap in link
Shims under toe and suspension blocks: 1.5mm
wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm,
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Old 08-16-2009, 08:55 AM   #17190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC MARKET View Post
Yes can !
But how about its reliability?
Even the HB 1 is weak, i don't believe the 3racing's 1 is better, isn't it?
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