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Old 08-11-2009, 12:33 AM   #17161
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(1) Thanks, excellent feedback.
I can relate 100% to the rear end issue when exiting a corner.
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I was reffering to position 5 on the rear shocktower, Im not sure I can totally explain why this works but it definately gave more rear traction on corner exit. Myself and one of my team mates both made the change and agreed on the outcome (both running 5 cell mod). I almost always run position 3 on the rear wishbones by the way .
to just add to this loose rear problem. two weeks ago i was running my spare car to try a different motor esc combo in a setup i thought was near enough to my race car. on my race car i had just gone to harder dampers and softer springs so i did change those to match the race car but then i left the 1.4/1.2 arb settings on the spare car cause i thought it wouldn't be that important.
but when running it the rear was really loose again like old days.
so i changed the rear arb from 1.2 to 1.4 and problem was solved.

next time out i will try the difference between the arb change and standing up the rear shocks with keeping the 1.2 arb at the rear.
it will be interesting to see the change in wheel rate combined with roll rate v.s just the roll rate of the car.
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Old 08-11-2009, 01:37 AM   #17162
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Thanks, for the responses guys.
Phill C, i run with 5 cells mod, too, and Lipo 10.5 motors, and i feel the same effect, but i use the 4 hole in shocktower, because in the 5 i feel, limit more rear roll.
When i test the rear cut deck, in the very low grip conditions, i feel the rear more loose, i have the old graphite rear deck cut off, and the new FRP uncut, is possible for the difference in material.
My car is loose, only when is more hot day, but, i think is for shock oil, when in the same day the weather is variable, when is cool the car run excelent.

Greetings, Luis C.
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Old 08-11-2009, 02:38 AM   #17163
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Originally Posted by tomracing View Post
to just add to this loose rear problem. two weeks ago i was running my spare car to try a different motor esc combo in a setup i thought was near enough to my race car. on my race car i had just gone to harder dampers and softer springs so i did change those to match the race car but then i left the 1.4/1.2 arb settings on the spare car cause i thought it wouldn't be that important.
but when running it the rear was really loose again like old days.
so i changed the rear arb from 1.2 to 1.4 and problem was solved.

next time out i will try the difference between the arb change and standing up the rear shocks with keeping the 1.2 arb at the rear.
it will be interesting to see the change in wheel rate combined with roll rate v.s just the roll rate of the car.
What linkage gap are you running on the front & rear swaybar

There is no mail order stock of the 1.2mm swaybars, so I have not been able to try them. I have increased the rear linkage gap as an alternative.
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Old 08-11-2009, 02:49 AM   #17164
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Originally Posted by cosmo1974 View Post
What linkage gap are you running on the front & rear swaybar
at the moment i put a 1.5mm shim between all arb linkages
but i do run the full plastic ball links, with the screw hole from the kit, at the top instead of the alloy end piece with the plastic ball link.
for me when i used the alloy combination at that spacing it rubbed against my cvd bone
besides that the plastic is lighter and i still need to save weight for the 10.5 or 13.5 class rules.
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Old 08-11-2009, 09:05 AM   #17165
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Exclamation Trinity DUO 10.5 Brushless

Help,

(1) I'm currently wiring a Trinity DUO 10.5 Brushless motor to a speedy in my TC.
Looking at the green endbell, do the A,B,C posts on the motor go from left to right (there are no markings)

(2) Also with this motor, how do I change from hole one to (say) hole two
There's a green endbell (with three groups, of three holes) but I dont know how to move it.

I've only used a Tekin 10.5 up to this point.
Thanks in advance
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Old 08-11-2009, 09:10 AM   #17166
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Originally Posted by cosmo1974 View Post
Help,

(1) I'm currently wiring a Trinity DUO 10.5 Brushless motor to a speedy in my TC.
Looking at the green endbell, do the A,B,C posts on the motor go from left to right (there are no markings)

(2) Also with this motor, how do I change from hole one to (say) hole two
There's a green endbell (with three groups, of three holes) but I dont know how to move it.

I've only used a Tekin 10.5 up to this point.
Thanks in advance
A is the most left from the back; B in the middle; C on the right

To change the timing you remove the three screws on the pinion side and then twist the rear plat to line up with the other holes. All the way to the left is 0 static timing; the middle in 10deg of timing; the right hole is 20deg of timing. I always use the middle hole.
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Old 08-11-2009, 09:32 AM   #17167
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A is the most left from the back; B in the middle; C on the right

To change the timing you remove the three screws on the pinion side and then twist the rear plat to line up with the other holes. All the way to the left is 0 static timing; the middle in 10deg of timing; the right hole is 20deg of timing. I always use the middle hole.
Thanks
Screws were a LOT longer than I thought.
Looks like it is on hole one (zero degrees) from the factory.
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Old 08-11-2009, 09:43 AM   #17168
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Yup, go to the middle hole. I think thats approx 10-15 deg of timing depending on manufacturing tolerances. I'm not 100% sure on that, but I AM 100% sure it's fast

-Korey
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Old 08-11-2009, 10:45 PM   #17169
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Yup, go to the middle hole. I think thats approx 10-15 deg of timing depending on manufacturing tolerances. I'm not 100% sure on that, but I AM 100% sure it's fast

-Korey

Check your vm. It's almost time for some Korey magic to be worked in Cali this weekend.
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Old 08-11-2009, 11:29 PM   #17170
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hi, will it be ok to install POM diff ring locks instead of the usual retainer that is included with the POM spool outdrives? they are hard to remove come maintenance time.
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Old 08-12-2009, 12:39 AM   #17171
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
Check your vm. It's almost time for some Korey magic to be worked in Cali this weekend.
Korey magic has been sent your way. I should make a new traction compound and call it that....
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:28 AM   #17172
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Originally Posted by cosmo1974 View Post
Phil,

(1) Thanks, excellent feedback.
I can relate 100% to the rear end issue when exiting a corner.

(2) I'm getting things a lot better than the kit setup but have not had much club track time since I purchased my TC (will make up for this when the new club opens around the corner from my place).

(3) Yes, my diff has been loose, so your diff comment is very relevant (and might explain a lot). I check my rear diff tension by holding both the rear wheels and trying to turn the centre pulley with my thumb. Just to confirm, this needs NO slip whatsoever. Also, I have just installed ceramic diff balls (not had the chance to run yet).

(4) Some photos would be greatly appreciated
I should be able to mount the belt tensioner somewhere else (if needed).

(5) I have two TC cars, so I can try cutting stuff, and still have an original as well.

(6) If you could post your setup that would be great I analyse them so I get a better understanding of what works under certain conditions (eg: lo, med, hi, & carpet tracks)

Thanks again
Hi Cosmo,

No problem at all, sorry its taken so long for me to reply...

Here is a pic of how I have cut the topdecks and a base setup sheet for asphalt which I usually work from.

I will be testing with Andy M from Friday-Sunday at Snetterton Park track in the UK as it is the venue for the next UK national. I will post the setup I end up on if you like, as it is low-medium grip and could also be a good setup to work from.

Hope this helps,

Phil.
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Hot Bodies Cyclone-1-piece-topdeck.jpg   Hot Bodies Cyclone-cut-topdecks.jpg   Hot Bodies Cyclone-phil-chambers-cyclone-tc-base-setup-asphalt.jpg  
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Old 08-12-2009, 09:57 AM   #17173
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Hi Cosmo,

No problem at all, sorry its taken so long for me to reply...

Here is a pic of how I have cut the topdecks and a base setup sheet for asphalt which I usually work from.

I will be testing with Andy M from Friday-Sunday at Snetterton Park track in the UK as it is the venue for the next UK national. I will post the setup I end up on if you like, as it is low-medium grip and could also be a good setup to work from.

Hope this helps,

Phil.
Thanks.

Now I understand about the "one piece" top deck - looks interesting.
Do you have photo with the one piece top deck removed (I'm curious about the new motor mount)

Posting your setups, and why you changed things, would benefit all drivers.

I've noticed that a lot of the top drivers have a much lower front RC, AND a lot of weight over the front (relative to the kit setup).

Thanks again.
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Old 08-12-2009, 10:03 AM   #17174
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Originally Posted by Phil C View Post
Hi Cosmo,

No problem at all, sorry its taken so long for me to reply...

Here is a pic of how I have cut the topdecks and a base setup sheet for asphalt which I usually work from.

I will be testing with Andy M from Friday-Sunday at Snetterton Park track in the UK as it is the venue for the next UK national. I will post the setup I end up on if you like, as it is low-medium grip and could also be a good setup to work from.

Hope this helps,

Phil.
Phil,

Is HB gonna release this new topdeck any sooner & have you compared it with the new lipo top deck?
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Old 08-12-2009, 10:21 AM   #17175
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Hi Cosmo,

The motormount started off as a std part and has been machined down so that the topdeck fits. I do not have a photo at this time sorry .

I will take notes over the weekend and post setup changes/reasons which I hope could help everyone .


Hi Ali,

I can confirm that the topdeck/motormount are not geniuine HB prototype parts and have been designed and manufactured by a member of the UK team for testing purposes. I have heard that HB will be working on developing their TC platform, but will not be releasing anything similar to the parts we have been testing in the UK.


I have not ran the lipo topdeck as I don't race with lipo, we run 5 cell mod in the UK/Europe , I do feel that cutting the topdecks as I have pictured above gives a very similar effect to the 1 piece topdeck, and is a much easier solution! One thing I forgot to mention is that I flip the topdeck and use button head screws at the front instead of countersunk, this helps give a little more flex also.

Cheers,
Phil.
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Last edited by Phil C; 08-12-2009 at 06:13 PM. Reason: Partly missleading
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