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Old 08-01-2009, 12:41 AM   #17101
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anyone upgrade their driveline to the LCD type?
If you have, someone sell me a pair your old universals.
PM me please
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Old 08-01-2009, 03:20 AM   #17102
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Originally Posted by balistic View Post

As concise as the data here is on what speed (0.10) the servo should be there is still a 100% variance on what torque should be? I plan to err on the high side just to see.

thanks guys.
I think you can only use the torque to a certain extend due to the strength of the servo saver.

Anyway, the most bad ass high speed, high torque servos are the new Associated (Thunder Tiger) and Orion Vortex servos, which has very high speed and very high torque. They are not too pricy as well, both are below $100 I believe. But they are not brushless.

Anyway, if the too is too fast, you can always turn it down on your transmitter.
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Old 08-01-2009, 06:03 PM   #17103
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Default TC and Moore edition

I recently picked up a TC and in the process of trading for a Moore edition. My question is what are the differences? I assume the TC is the current model with a different internal ratio. Can I stock up on parts for one and use on the either.

I plan on running the TC 13.5 brusless and the Moore Black can both rubber.
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Old 08-01-2009, 06:07 PM   #17104
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Originally Posted by zleader_99 View Post
I recently picked up a TC and in the process of trading for a Moore edition. My question is what are the differences? I assume the TC is the current model with a different internal ratio. Can I stock up on parts for one and use on the either.

I plan on running the TC 13.5 brusless and the Moore Black can both rubber.
I would probably stay with the TC. It has the better diff. Both cars are equally fast though...

Add a Version 3 spool to the TC or add the TC diff to the Moore. and you should be set.
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Old 08-01-2009, 08:51 PM   #17105
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So I just picked up the Lipo Upper Deck kit 67695 and was wondering what the smaller of the two purple aluminum pieces are for? I would think it is to make up the difference between the rear rear bulkhead and the upper deck but I would think it would be a washer instead of a rectangular piece. The hole pattern matches up with the bottom of the rear bulkhead but if I installed it underneath it, then the layshaft would sit ant an angle. Help Hiro, Korey, Art, Race Nuts, anyone with this kit?
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Old 08-01-2009, 08:58 PM   #17106
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Originally Posted by Tony Vega View Post
So I just picked up the Lipo Upper Deck kit 67695 and was wondering what the smaller of the two purple aluminum pieces are for? I would think it is to make up the difference between the rear rear bulkhead and the upper deck but I would think it would be a washer instead of a rectangular piece. The hole pattern matches up with the bottom of the rear bulkhead but if I installed it underneath it, then the layshaft would sit ant an angle. Help Hiro, Korey, Art, Race Nuts, anyone with this kit?
Someone posted about this earlier...I think it is for one of the older cyclones and is not needed for the TC. You do however need the 2mm round shim that comes with the kit. As long as it looks level you should be good to go.
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Old 08-01-2009, 09:26 PM   #17107
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Someone posted about this earlier...I think it is for one of the older cyclones and is not needed for the TC. You do however need the 2mm round shim that comes with the kit. As long as it looks level you should be good to go.
Got it figured out. The spacer is if you use the BL motor mount. I didn't get a round 2mm spacer in my conversion. Is it just one of the spacers used throughout the kit? 2mm?
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Old 08-01-2009, 09:31 PM   #17108
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Originally Posted by Tony Vega View Post
Got it figured out. The spacer is if you use the BL motor mount. I didn't get a round 2mm spacer in my conversion. Is it just one of the spacers used throughout the kit? 2mm?
yep...
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Old 08-01-2009, 11:35 PM   #17109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Advil View Post
I would probably stay with the TC. It has the better diff. Both cars are equally fast though...

Add a Version 3 spool to the TC or add the TC diff to the Moore. and you should be set.
Giving advice and helping out others huh........I guess you're not just a good cook Ate the other tri-tip yestersay. Thanks again for everything. See ya in two weeks bro. I love my purple car
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Old 08-02-2009, 12:55 AM   #17110
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Well, looks like everyone covered what needed to be covered lol. See what happens when I actually go racing? Speaking of, I have a pretty decent parking lot/low-medium asphalt setup now (90 deg air temp).

Front:

Spring: HPI Pro 4 Pink
Oil: Losi 70wt, zero rebound, no foam
Piston: 2 hole 1.2mm (the stock one)
Shock Position: 2 on arm, 3 on tower
Camber Link Position: long, 2mm under inner pivot
Camber: 2 deg
Caster: 4 deg
Toe block: 2.5 deg (try a 2.... it'll give a little bit crisper turn in)
Shims under suspension and toe blocks: 1.0mm
Droop: 5.5mm off of a gauge
Toe: 0
Wheelbase: .7mm behind arm, 2mm in front
Ackerman: 3mm on center bell crank
Front drive: spool
Swaybar: silver (1.4mm with 2mm gap in the links)

Rear:

Spring: HPI pro 4 blue
Oil: Losi 70wt, zero rebound, no foam
Piston: 1.2mm 2 hole
Shock position: 4 on tower, 3 on arm
Camber link position: long on bulkhead (1mm under pivot) and short on rear hub (0mm under it).
Toe block: 3 deg
Rear Hub: 0 deg (stock)
Swaybar: copper (1.2mm) with 3mm gap in link
Shims under toe and suspension blocks: 1.5mm
wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7 behind it, 2mm in front of hub, .7mm behind it.

Body: LW Mazdaspeed 6
Wing: HB, mounted back to legal limit

Tires: Sorex 36, black hara v2 insert, schumacher rev lite rims.
Traction compound: Clean with buggy grip, let tire tweak sit as long as possible.

-Korey
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Old 08-02-2009, 01:52 AM   #17111
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Thanks Korey for sharing your setup. Did you measure the droop to the center of the hinge pin or to the bottom of the arms?

What motor/speedo/ratio were you running?

Thanks.
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Old 08-02-2009, 05:20 AM   #17112
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Hey Korey - how well would this setup work with X-Patterns or HPI's vintage D-compounds?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Well, looks like everyone covered what needed to be covered lol. See what happens when I actually go racing? Speaking of, I have a pretty decent parking lot/low-medium asphalt setup now (90 deg air temp).

Front:

Spring: HPI Pro 4 Pink
Oil: Losi 70wt, zero rebound, no foam
Piston: 2 hole 1.2mm (the stock one)
Shock Position: 2 on arm, 3 on tower
Camber Link Position: long, 2mm under inner pivot
Camber: 2 deg
Caster: 4 deg
Toe block: 2.5 deg (try a 2.... it'll give a little bit crisper turn in)
Shims under suspension and toe blocks: 1.0mm
Droop: 5.5mm off of a gauge
Toe: 0
Wheelbase: .7mm behind arm, 2mm in front
Ackerman: 3mm on center bell crank
Front drive: spool
Swaybar: silver (1.4mm with 2mm gap in the links)

Rear:

Spring: HPI pro 4 blue
Oil: Losi 70wt, zero rebound, no foam
Piston: 1.2mm 2 hole
Shock position: 4 on tower, 3 on arm
Camber link position: long on bulkhead (1mm under pivot) and short on rear hub (0mm under it).
Toe block: 3 deg
Rear Hub: 0 deg (stock)
Swaybar: copper (1.2mm) with 3mm gap in link
Shims under toe and suspension blocks: 1.5mm
wheelbase: 2mm in front of arm, .7 behind it, 2mm in front of hub, .7mm behind it.

Body: LW Mazdaspeed 6
Wing: HB, mounted back to legal limit

Tires: Sorex 36, black hara v2 insert, schumacher rev lite rims.
Traction compound: Clean with buggy grip, let tire tweak sit as long as possible.

-Korey
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Old 08-02-2009, 05:42 AM   #17113
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This was with a LRP SPX on profile 7, Trinity Duo 13.5 (middle timing hole) geared at a 5.6 final Drive (smaller track). Droop was measured off the bottom of the arm, just under the outer hinge pin.

Not sure how it would work with those tires. Typically those tires make your car push a little more I would think? I've actually never tried them. The setup makes a lot of grip overall, so I think it should be pretty good. If you find you want the car to be more aggressive overall, try a little bit less arm sweep, or run 3 hole 1.1mm pistons with Losi 40-50wt shock oil.

-Korey
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Old 08-02-2009, 07:42 AM   #17114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
This was with a LRP SPX on profile 7, Trinity Duo 13.5 (middle timing hole) geared at a 5.6 final Drive (smaller track). Droop was measured off the bottom of the arm, just under the outer hinge pin.

Not sure how it would work with those tires. Typically those tires make your car push a little more I would think? I've actually never tried them. The setup makes a lot of grip overall, so I think it should be pretty good. If you find you want the car to be more aggressive overall, try a little bit less arm sweep, or run 3 hole 1.1mm pistons with Losi 40-50wt shock oil.

-Korey
If you use stock motor , can try Tekin RS or Team Wav RB50 ESC same your motor gear ratio ,
can get more punch & full speed ,
if RB50 had Tubro mode !
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Old 08-02-2009, 09:14 AM   #17115
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You guys see this?
http://events.redrc.net/event-galler...ros/?nggpage=4
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