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Old 07-30-2009, 10:47 PM   #17086
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Can anyone recommend a good quality Metal Gear servo for my TC?
I have a Sanwa MX-3FG radio.

Maybe a Futaba of some sort?

The Sanwa servo's that came with the radio were functionally ok, but the teeth strip too easily.

Thanks
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Old 07-30-2009, 11:34 PM   #17087
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Originally Posted by cosmo1974 View Post
Can anyone recommend a good quality Metal Gear servo for my TC?
I have a Sanwa MX-3FG radio.

Maybe a Futaba of some sort?

The Sanwa servo's that came with the radio were functionally ok, but the teeth strip too easily.

Thanks
Futaba 9550, or 9551

All the way!
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Old 07-31-2009, 02:06 AM   #17088
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Originally Posted by cosmo1974 View Post
Can anyone recommend a good quality Metal Gear servo for my TC?
I have a Sanwa MX-3FG radio.

Maybe a Futaba of some sort?

The Sanwa servo's that came with the radio were functionally ok, but the teeth strip too easily.

Thanks
Futaba BLS 551
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Old 07-31-2009, 07:41 AM   #17089
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Futaba 9550, or 9551

All the way!
"The Futaba S9551 digital low profile servo."

What does the "digital" attribute mean in practice (as opposed to those that are not digital)?
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Old 07-31-2009, 08:31 AM   #17090
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Yea, I think it's because the HPI springs are very very linear. This will make the car feel more aggressive and reactive overall, even for about the same spring rate. I personally prefer linear springs because they make the car feel very direct and precise to inputs. Progressive springs, like the Atsushi Hara springs tend to make the car feel very mellow and easy to drive.

-Korey
Have you tried the XRay spring? and if you did what is your take on it.
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Old 07-31-2009, 10:27 AM   #17091
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Originally Posted by cosmo1974 View Post
"The Futaba S9551 digital low profile servo."

What does the "digital" attribute mean in practice (as opposed to those that are not digital)?
Digital servos "check" their position many more times per second than an analog servo does. They have much greater centering, and holding power. In my opinion, digital servos are all you should run anymore.

I do run for Ko Propo, but the Futaba 9551 is a low profile servo with a good price point. The Ko Propo 3245, and the low profile 2413 are good servos from KO that aren't too much money. If you are looking for something cheaper, they have a line of mid sized servos that is right in between the size of a full standard servo and a low profile servo. The 2511 is a metal geared, digital "mid sized" that works great, and on a budget ($60).
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Old 07-31-2009, 10:28 AM   #17092
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Originally Posted by Mutabarucka View Post
Have you tried the XRay spring? and if you did what is your take on it.
I did when I ran for xray, but not specifically on this car. The colored springs are pretty linear, but those black springs they use a lot more now I've never tried.

-Korey
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Old 07-31-2009, 02:01 PM   #17093
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Hello

I drive a Losi car and have few of Brand new LCD set left, a freind of mine told me cyclone users also run a Losi LCD as conversion kit, If I put kit together like the attachment would it be good for $50.00 ?

Thanks
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Hot Bodies Cyclone-lcd_conversion2.jpg  

Last edited by SweepRacingUSA; 07-31-2009 at 02:17 PM.
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Old 07-31-2009, 05:39 PM   #17094
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Digital servos "check" their position many more times per second than an analog servo does. They have much greater centering, and holding power. In my opinion, digital servos are all you should run anymore.

I do run for Ko Propo, but the Futaba 9551 is a low profile servo with a good price point. The Ko Propo 3245, and the low profile 2413 are good servos from KO that aren't too much money. If you are looking for something cheaper, they have a line of mid sized servos that is right in between the size of a full standard servo and a low profile servo. The 2511 is a metal geared, digital "mid sized" that works great, and on a budget ($60).
Hi Korey

I was having a hard time getting an answer on what servo to run and I called HB. I was told what was recommended was 200oz at .10, how does that work with what is being said here? I have been running hitec 645mg that is like 130oz at .17.

What is the spec that would be best if the price point isn't in the equation?
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Old 07-31-2009, 05:47 PM   #17095
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The speed sounds about right, but the torque is a little overkill I think. I don't think you need a servo with quite that much torque for a touring car, but it's doesn't hurt either. At the reedy race, I was using a Futaba S9550, which has about 90 oz of torque and has a speed of about .11 second. I now use a Ko propo 2413 and love it, it's about the same speed but has 120 oz of torque. So I would say something with around 100z of torque would be great, and around a .10 transit speed. I use those servos mainly because they of the low profile type, and give the chassis a little more room to put stuff (like a transponder). I know Hiro likes the 2367 from KO (full size), which is around 200 oz of torque, and a .10 transit time.

If price or size isn't a factor, then I feel you can never have too much torque. It's better to have too much than too little. Speed... Some might disagree with me on this, but I have found anything faster than .08-.10 to be almost pointless. If you turn the wheel that fast to full lock, a lot of times the front tires will actually slip and cause the car to understeer. If you have a trained hand then it's great, but it can be a handful for some. Keep in mind, having a servo that is too slow can hurt you just as much. I have problems running a servo any slower than .15 in a touring car because they don't come back to center as fast as I like.

If price isn't a factor HB has also released some very high quality servos that have some impressive specs. Ko Propo also has many fantastic offerings for all budget levels now as well.

-Korey
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Last edited by Korey Harbke; 07-31-2009 at 06:02 PM.
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Old 07-31-2009, 05:57 PM   #17096
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Originally Posted by balistic View Post
Hi Korey

I was having a hard time getting an answer on what servo to run and I called HB. I was told what was recommended was 200oz at .10, how does that work with what is being said here? I have been running hitec 645mg that is like 130oz at .17.

What is the spec that would be best if the price point isn't in the equation?
Hi balistic, I have used S9551 and BLS 551 in my cyclone and I have to say BLS 551 is probably the best choice. It is smoother than S9551 and have much less play at neutral position. It also seems to center better and has more throw as well. I have not tried KO2413, I am sure it is a pretty good servo too. My recommendation is still BLS 551, since it uses brushless motor and is built on the very latest technology.

I have also performed some tests on various servos and I found anything quicker than 0.1S is overkilled, because there is no way I could turn the steering wheel lock to lock quicker than a servo with 0.1S speed.

I have to add that when you switch from a 0.17s to a 0.1s servo, your driving style may need to change a little, simply because the servo is so much quicker. For example, with the slower servo, you can simply turn at full speed at a corner, but with a quicker servo, you have to control how quickly you turn the steering wheel, so that the car is not pitched too hard into the corner.
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Old 07-31-2009, 08:09 PM   #17097
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Originally Posted by billythekid View Post
For example, with the slower servo, you can simply turn at full speed at a corner, but with a quicker servo, you have to control how quickly you turn the steering wheel, so that the car is not pitched too hard into the corner.
I may be over thinking here but I always try to turn at a controlled rate. I don't see the speed as an entry problem as much as back to center to catch a slide. I want to try at least once a badass high torque high speed servo just to see if I am letting the servo drive the car or if I am?

As concise as the data here is on what speed (0.10) the servo should be there is still a 100% variance on what torque should be? I plan to err on the high side just to see.

thanks guys.
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Old 07-31-2009, 08:38 PM   #17098
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Digital servos "check" their position many more times per second than an analog servo does. They have much greater centering, and holding power. In my opinion, digital servos are all you should run anymore.

I do run for Ko Propo, but the Futaba 9551 is a low profile servo with a good price point. The Ko Propo 3245, and the low profile 2413 are good servos from KO that aren't too much money. If you are looking for something cheaper, they have a line of mid sized servos that is right in between the size of a full standard servo and a low profile servo. The 2511 is a metal geared, digital "mid sized" that works great, and on a budget ($60).
(1) I think the Futaba 9551 sounds reasonable.
Only available online from A Main at present (everyone else is out of stock).
Selling for around US$85.

(2) Also, I just discovered a Hitec 645 in an old off road buggy at home.
Torque is 133 and speed is 0.2; slow-ish but I'm not sure how critical this is.
Not digital either.

Cheers
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Old 07-31-2009, 08:59 PM   #17099
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Still after a starting set-up for outdoor asphalt if anyone has one

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Originally Posted by JR007 View Post
OK, so the RCTech search function sucks.

I'm after a starting set-up as I have only raced my (fairly) standard TA-05 to date, and this is in a different class (meant in both ways).

I have a Cyclone Surikarn coming in a few days and i'll be racing it in stock. Stock in NZ is silver cans with NiCd batteries, so not high speed stuff.

The track is a very large outdoor asphalt track (used for nitro as well as electric), and the weather down here ATM is fairly cold. Not sure if i'll use rubber or foams. I'll see what the others are using, but I have a variety of both.

Thanks for the help
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Old 07-31-2009, 11:53 PM   #17100
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Still after a starting set-up for outdoor asphalt if anyone has one
I've mentioned a few times in the last few pages that Atsushi Hara's 2008 Reedy Race setup is a good starting point. Hope that helps.

-Korey
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