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Old 07-30-2009, 12:09 AM   #17071
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Hi Hiro, Korey, I'm currently tried the TC front shocks tower w/ WCE shocks tower mount and I can't tell the difference yet. Can you explain a little bit more about that?

Thanks.

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Old 07-30-2009, 12:26 AM   #17072
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Hi Hiro, Korey, I'm currently tried the TC front shocks tower w/ WCE shocks tower mount and I can't tell the difference yet. Can you explain a little bit more about that?

Thanks.
I haven't tried it yet actually. It's probably a very small change if any really.

-Korey
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Old 07-30-2009, 12:31 AM   #17073
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Hi Korey, I'm currently used the set up from Hara's TITC 2009 at Speedworld w/ spec tire (Top's hard compound) and the lay out still exactly same as Reedy, but have few changes on the set up: 40wt front and 35wt rear, no foam w/about 70% rebound on both and I'm using TC shocks tower with WCE shocks tower mount. (front and rear). I feel the car got little off power push. Do you think I should try lower the roll center up front from 1.5mm to 1mm? (both FF & FR toe block) Or the problem is the front shocks tower? I did try to raise up the ride height to 5, 5.5 and the droop is 5.5, 5 and it does help little but still got little push.

Thanks.
I'm not Korey, but let me suggest a few things because i have tried the same setup at the reedy and had the same problem. LoL

I would definitely go to the #2 shock position on the front arm instead of #1 then go up the front spring to pink.
If you have to use the WCE bulkheads and TC shock tower combo, i would reduce the rebound as this combo has more pack when the shock is compressed. Other wise i suggest to use TC bulkheads w/TC shock tower, or WCE bulkheads w/WCE shock tower.

I'm sure Korey will give you better solution but i hope this helps too.

-Hiro
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Old 07-30-2009, 12:44 AM   #17074
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Thank you Hiro, that's what I thought. So since on that combo I has now, the piston will be at higher position (2mm?), will it slower the Left & Right transition also?

Thanks.
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Old 07-30-2009, 06:07 AM   #17075
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
How would you say the grip is? I've tried Andy Moore's IIC rubber setup thats a better decent starting point in modified, or if the grip is lower for spec racing. In spec racing you'll need to free up the car more. Sean Williams has a pretty decent setup that is good for higher bite carpet with spec motors from what I understand. Here's a link to each setup.

Andy's
http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/pdfs/...IIC_rubber.pdf

Sean's
http://www.gearchart.com/setup/setup...0SET%20UP3.pdf

-Korey
U guys prefer to use Tamiya springs then HPI springs?
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Old 07-30-2009, 08:05 AM   #17076
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Thank you Hiro, that's what I thought. So since on that combo I has now, the piston will be at higher position (2mm?), will it slower the Left & Right transition also?

Thanks.
I don't think it sowers the transition but it generates a bit more pack (more damping). So it should feel like you have a lot of rebound. It makes the car very responsive and stable on the high speed corner, but when your is pushing at coming in to the corner (off throttle), i would not use this combo.

But once again, try #2 shock mounting hole on the a-arm first with pink springs. I'm almost sure you will have better turn in.

Thanks,
-Hiro
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Old 07-30-2009, 08:44 AM   #17077
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Originally Posted by ali_g View Post
U guys prefer to use Tamiya springs then HPI springs?
Weeelllll.... I've actually never tried this setup with tamiya springs. I think tamiya springs might be a little more progressive (not 100% sure on that) because I know HPI springs are super linear. I actually substituted HPI silver front, and HPI blue rear on this setup, and it was a pretty good starting point. Very smooth and easy to drive.

I might do some testing on tamiya springs vs hpi here soon. We'll see if I can get my hands on some. I've run tamiya yellows on a parking lot track a few times with success, but the only reason I ran those is they are softer than our HPI blue spring.

-Korey
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Old 07-30-2009, 08:47 AM   #17078
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
I don't think it sowers the transition but it generates a bit more pack (more damping). So it should feel like you have a lot of rebound. It makes the car very responsive and stable on the high speed corner, but when your is pushing at coming in to the corner (off throttle), i would not use this combo.

But once again, try #2 shock mounting hole on the a-arm first with pink springs. I'm almost sure you will have better turn in.

Thanks,
-Hiro
I agree. Usually whenever I use a shock position further in on the arm, combined with a siffer spring it becomes more reactive overall (especially at lower speeds). When the shock is further out on the arm with a softer spring, it's generally very smooth and creates a little more high speed grip. It tends to suffer in some of the lower speed corners though.

-Korey
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Old 07-30-2009, 10:12 AM   #17079
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Thank you Hiro, Korey. I'll going to try that on next race - ( Top Gun Challenge at Norcal ). That's a really good info. Thanks again.
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Old 07-30-2009, 10:19 AM   #17080
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Weeelllll.... I've actually never tried this setup with tamiya springs. I think tamiya springs might be a little more progressive (not 100% sure on that) because I know HPI springs are super linear. I actually substituted HPI silver front, and HPI blue rear on this setup, and it was a pretty good starting point. Very smooth and easy to drive.

I might do some testing on tamiya springs vs hpi here soon. We'll see if I can get my hands on some. I've run tamiya yellows on a parking lot track a few times with success, but the only reason I ran those is they are softer than our HPI blue spring.

-Korey
What's funny is that a lot of Tamiya drivers are running HB springs.
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Old 07-30-2009, 12:22 PM   #17081
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What's funny is that a lot of Tamiya drivers are running HB springs.
Yea, I think it's because the HPI springs are very very linear. This will make the car feel more aggressive and reactive overall, even for about the same spring rate. I personally prefer linear springs because they make the car feel very direct and precise to inputs. Progressive springs, like the Atsushi Hara springs tend to make the car feel very mellow and easy to drive.

-Korey
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Old 07-30-2009, 01:06 PM   #17082
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Progressive springs, like the Atsushi Hara springs tend to make the car feel very mellow and easy to drive.

-Korey
Why on earth would you NOT want that? Sounds great
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Old 07-30-2009, 01:16 PM   #17083
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Why on earth would you NOT want that? Sounds great
Well... sometimes it's a little too much haha. It's pretty drastic. If your car is REALLY edgy and hard to drive, you can try these springs. I've noticed they heat up the tires a lot less too, so you if you having overheating issues they are also good to try. You can almost always accomplish these things with other tuning options though.

-Korey
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Old 07-30-2009, 04:22 PM   #17084
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OK, so the RCTech search function sucks.

I'm after a starting set-up as I have only raced my (fairly) standard TA-05 to date, and this is in a different class (meant in both ways).

I have a Cyclone Surikarn coming in a few days and i'll be racing it in stock. Stock in NZ is silver cans with NiCd batteries, so not high speed stuff.

The track is a very large outdoor asphalt track (used for nitro as well as electric), and the weather down here ATM is fairly cold. Not sure if i'll use rubber or foams. I'll see what the others are using, but I have a variety of both.

Thanks for the help
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Old 07-30-2009, 06:00 PM   #17085
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Why on earth would you NOT want that? Sounds great
I understand what you mean. You have to try both. Sometimes i hate the Hara springs because they make the car feel superslugish, other times they are a setup saver :P

Usually for base setup i use the hara ones with muchmore and rp tires. For sorex and sweep the HPI give that litle edge
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