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Old 07-27-2009, 10:13 PM   #17041
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Save your $$$ and just keep the stuff you have. The main bulkheads are the same as the TC bulkheads. The TC bulkheads just don't have the rounded edges. The upper bulkheads on the Tc are a little stronger, but they have fewer camber link position options. The TC bulkheads also require you to run lowered shock towers to maintain the same geometry as they are a little taller.

Hope that helps!

-Korey
yeah that does.. i thought the hole on the tc bulk heads were 3 mm lower , well thats wat i heard


thanks
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Old 07-27-2009, 11:47 PM   #17042
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i drift a cyclone WCE, i want to use a open diff in front end to save my cvd's and decrease understeer, however, when i use one in the front, it always unscrews itself and becomes loose so all the power goes to just one wheel and the other stays still, is there any way i can fix this?
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Old 07-28-2009, 12:19 AM   #17043
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
a lot of the changes I see on Hara's car are to tone it down so he doesn't overheat the tires. That's why he's running such thick shock oil, and the shocks are layed way down,
can I just ask about this comment as i think that the wheel rate controls the load on the tire but shock oil thickness helps to control the amount of roll the body makes and how the tires moves over bumps. the very thick oil used in thailand is for the heat in silicone oil degrading it's viscosity.

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Originally Posted by mwoods View Post
i thought the hole on the tc bulk heads were 3 mm lower , well thats wat i heard
the TC carbon shocktowers are 2mm lower and the TC alu bulkheads are 2mm taller to keep the shock position the same as the WCE version.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshy T
i drift a cyclone WCE, i want to use a open diff in front end to save my cvd's and decrease understeer, however, when i use one in the front, it always unscrews itself and becomes loose so all the power goes to just one wheel and the other stays still, is there any way i can fix this?
Today 07:13 AM
a drop of threadlock in the black diff nut normally keeps it tight
though i am not sure what you mean by "open" diff.
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Old 07-28-2009, 06:18 AM   #17044
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Originally Posted by cosmo1974 View Post
...

(2) Is it fair to say (at least relatively):
-- Speedworld is lo-med grip ?
-- RCS is med-hi grip ?

I'm guessing thats the main factor for the setup differences.

...

Cheers
Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Speedworld's grip was pretty high. But Hara's setup reflects that he didnt use any traction compound on his tires. They weren't even allowed tire warmers.
...
...
His TITC setup is better suited for a high grip track, in extremely hot weather, with a pretty flowing layout.

-Korey
(1) So I think what your saying fits in with my assumptions but for a slightly different reason at Speedworld.

(2) Therefore,
-- lo-med grip track > start with RROC at Speedworld setup
-- med-hi grip track > start with TITC at RCS setup

(3) I'm using a modified RROC setup, on a lo-med grip track, and it works well.

(4) I'll also be running on a med-hi grip outdoor asphalt track (emphasis on hi grip initially) in a month or so. I have a "spare parts" TC which is now going to become my "TC #2" car. I'll be able to keep one car for each track (I think I have enough spares to go around). So, if I start with TITC at RCS setup, what changes should I make given that:
-- Winter = 13-20 degrees C
-- Summer = 30-40 degrees C
-- Other Seasons = 20-30 degrees C

Note: I have ordered some Trinity Tire Tweak, and some Paragon FXII tire traction compounds (have not used either before). I already have some Muchmore tire warmers. I'm running Sorex 32R tires + B medium inserts, on Speedmind rims (which I will have to live with, as I have quite a few sets).

(5) Oh, and what 10.5T Brushless motor do you recommend
-- I need to get another one (currently own Tekin 10.5 Redline)
-- I like the Tekin 10.5 Redline, but am not so keen on the LRP X11 Stock Spec 10.5 (purely based on forum readings).

Thanks in advance
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Old 07-28-2009, 07:41 AM   #17045
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomracing View Post
can I just ask about this comment as i think that the wheel rate controls the load on the tire but shock oil thickness helps to control the amount of roll the body makes and how the tires moves over bumps. the very thick oil used in thailand is for the heat in silicone oil degrading it's viscosity.


the TC carbon shocktowers are 2mm lower and the TC alu bulkheads are 2mm taller to keep the shock position the same as the WCE version.


a drop of threadlock in the black diff nut normally keeps it tight
though i am not sure what you mean by "open" diff.
That's some of it, but if you are using good shock oil it should never really be an issue. The thicker oil slows the reaction of the car, and doesn't put huge, sudden loads on the tires due to really fast weight transfer. Smoother weight transfer will generally help keep the tires cooler. In modified, thats one of the most important things to consider. Once the tires are overheated, the car becomes extremely hard to drive.

-Korey
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Old 07-28-2009, 07:44 AM   #17046
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Originally Posted by mwoods View Post
yeah that does.. i thought the hole on the tc bulk heads were 3 mm lower , well thats wat i heard


thanks
Thats actually the upper bulkheads, or the "shock tower mounts" is what I call them. They are 2mm taller due to the extra reinforcement. Thats why the cyclone TC comes with the lowered shock towers that are an option for the WCE edition to maintain the same overall geometry for shock positions. Camber link positions haven't changed any vertically, but they do have fewer holes for tuning options on the TC upper bulkheads. HB has just found that the 2 longest camber link positions are all most people need.

-Korey
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Old 07-28-2009, 07:47 AM   #17047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmo1974 View Post
(1) So I think what your saying fits in with my assumptions but for a slightly different reason at Speedworld.

(2) Therefore,
-- lo-med grip track > start with RROC at Speedworld setup
-- med-hi grip track > start with TITC at RCS setup

(3) I'm using a modified RROC setup, on a lo-med grip track, and it works well.

(4) I'll also be running on a med-hi grip outdoor asphalt track (emphasis on hi grip initially) in a month or so. I have a "spare parts" TC which is now going to become my "TC #2" car. I'll be able to keep one car for each track (I think I have enough spares to go around). So, if I start with TITC at RCS setup, what changes should I make given that:
-- Winter = 13-20 degrees C
-- Summer = 30-40 degrees C
-- Other Seasons = 20-30 degrees C

Note: I have ordered some Trinity Tire Tweak, and some Paragon FXII tire traction compounds (have not used either before). I already have some Muchmore tire warmers. I'm running Sorex 32R tires + B medium inserts, on Speedmind rims (which I will have to live with, as I have quite a few sets).

(5) Oh, and what 10.5T Brushless motor do you recommend
-- I need to get another one (currently own Tekin 10.5 Redline)
-- I like the Tekin 10.5 Redline, but am not so keen on the LRP X11 Stock Spec 10.5 (purely based on forum readings).

Thanks in advance
That's a pretty sound judgment. For different temperatures, I usually keep the same general setup. I only change shock oil and tires to work with the setup. Usually thinner shock oil for colder conditions, and thicker for warmer. I've been starting with Losi 50wt for the most part now, then working from there. I've always been a fan of the Novak 10.5 because it has a ton of bottom end grunt, but the rotors seem to go bad fast. The Trinity Duo 10.5 is VERY fast, just a little more RPM based. It's great if you nail the gearing on it, and the rotors are awesome too.

-Korey
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Old 07-28-2009, 08:19 AM   #17048
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
That's a pretty sound judgment. For different temperatures, I usually keep the same general setup. I only change shock oil and tires to work with the setup. Usually thinner shock oil for colder conditions, and thicker for warmer. I've been starting with Losi 50wt for the most part now, then working from there. I've always been a fan of the Novak 10.5 because it has a ton of bottom end grunt, but the rotors seem to go bad fast. The Trinity Duo 10.5 is VERY fast, just a little more RPM based. It's great if you nail the gearing on it, and the rotors are awesome too.

-Korey
Trinity Duo 10.5 it is
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Old 07-28-2009, 08:22 AM   #17049
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Korey, I am at a point with my TC where I tried almost every setup for the track I race and still I don't have the steering I am looking for, I tried two other cars and the steering they have compare to the TC is amazingly different with the same tires and track, the track is small and tight low to med traction is there any suggestion.
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Old 07-28-2009, 08:43 AM   #17050
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Originally Posted by tomracing View Post
can I just ask about this comment as i think that the wheel rate controls the load on the tire but shock oil thickness helps to control the amount of roll the body makes and how the tires moves over bumps. the very thick oil used in thailand is for the heat in silicone oil degrading it's viscosity.
I think you're right most of the part. But i would say that thicker shock oil just makes more traction simply. Yes, it works good in hot condition, but i use thicker oil when i need more traction and big open track layout. At the small/tight layout track, i generally use thinner (i.e: 30-50wt) to get quicker reaction. In this case i also change the piston from 2 holes to 3 holes. (3 hole piston has more pack when it gets faster input so works really well with thinner oil)

Thanks,
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Old 07-28-2009, 08:57 AM   #17051
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
I think you're right most of the part. But i would say that thicker shock oil just makes more traction simply. Yes, it works good in hot condition, but i use thicker oil when i need more traction and big open track layout. At the small/tight layout track, i generally use thinner (i.e: 30-50wt) to get quicker reaction. In this case i also change the piston from 2 holes to 3 holes. (3 hole piston has more pack when it gets faster input so works really well with thinner oil)

Thanks,
I have tested shock damping from extremely soft to extremely hard and you are correct about heavier oil. Generally, heavier oil slows down the chassis movement and weight transfer. But if I increase the damping to very hard, then traction would be lost intead. Is this consistent with your testing, Hiro?
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Old 07-28-2009, 09:25 AM   #17052
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so traction will be purely based on set up and tires when using thicker oil? been using thin oil in races on a fair track and been liking it. if my car's rear end tend to get loose should i switch to thinner oil? temp is around 80 to 90 F. suggestions please. i want to be fast but it seems using thinner oil makes my car roll a lot. but traction is superb. by the way, im using 3 hole pistons all around.
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Old 07-28-2009, 09:36 AM   #17053
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so traction will be purely based on set up and tires when using thicker oil? been using thin oil in races on a fair track and been liking it. if my car's rear end tend to get loose should i switch to thinner oil? temp is around 80 to 90 F. suggestions please. i want to be fast but it seems using thinner oil makes my car roll a lot. but traction is superb. by the way, im using 3 hole pistons all around.
It's hard to say. There could be another flaw in your setup causing the problem. We will have to see the whole setup (in detail) to really understand what your car might be doing. Then we can give better suggestions on what you can try.

-Korey
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Old 07-28-2009, 08:38 PM   #17054
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
It's hard to say. There could be another flaw in your setup causing the problem. We will have to see the whole setup (in detail) to really understand what your car might be doing. Then we can give better suggestions on what you can try.

-Korey
im using 3 deg toe blocks at the rear with -2 camber and up front 2.5 deg -1 camber and 0deg in the steering. 2mm shims all around. shock pos up front 3 and 4 at the back. ride height is at 5 and 4 droop front and rear. spool for the front. tires are sorex 36 with med hara insert,.

thanks.
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Old 07-28-2009, 10:18 PM   #17055
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Originally Posted by Joshy T View Post
i drift a cyclone WCE, i want to use a open diff in front end to save my cvd's and decrease understeer, however, when i use one in the front, it always unscrews itself and becomes loose so all the power goes to just one wheel and the other stays still, is there any way i can fix this?
I run a center one way and a front diff in my drifter and have never had diff come lose? New nut and some locktight?
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