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Old 07-25-2009, 05:36 AM
  #16981  
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Yesterday I installed in my car the Li-Po Battery Upper Deck Conversion and looks and works perfect on the car. Let see how it runs now.
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Old 07-25-2009, 09:09 AM
  #16982  
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow
I think the cut middle deck also works great on "Super" high bite to free up the rear. May be we should have tried?


Would you suggest that this be tried with rubber on carpet ? I've been running the car all summer on mid to high grip carpet ( Jaco blues, Jack, 13.5, spool ). What's happening to me is that the car has no corner speed. It basically stops mid corner. I just switched to the lipo top deck and the overall chassis seems to have too much flex. I thought that the chassis was giving up in the corners and that's why it was stopping mid corner.
If I cut the middle deck wouldn't that make the problem worse ?

I realize that you guys run mostly on asphault but maybe you may have a thought.

Thanks.
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Old 07-25-2009, 11:51 AM
  #16983  
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Originally Posted by jag88
Would you suggest that this be tried with rubber on carpet ? I've been running the car all summer on mid to high grip carpet ( Jaco blues, Jack, 13.5, spool ). What's happening to me is that the car has no corner speed. It basically stops mid corner. I just switched to the lipo top deck and the overall chassis seems to have too much flex. I thought that the chassis was giving up in the corners and that's why it was stopping mid corner.
If I cut the middle deck wouldn't that make the problem worse ?

I realize that you guys run mostly on asphault but maybe you may have a thought.

Thanks.
I would leave it uncut... and run ATC posts up front if you have them (using 2mm shims instead of the orings). If you are running the chassis that came in the TC kit, it tends to flex a little too much in the front just under the diff, and just about right in the rear. You might even want to try a normal graphite rear plate as well if you can find them.

I would also suggest raising the roll center by adding shims under the suspension and toe blocks. If grip is good enough, you might be able to run as much as 2-3 mm under the suspension blocks. Just be careful though, I've noticed if you're not careful and raise the roll center too much on carpet, it can traction roll really easy when the grip gets high. I think it just makes the car transfer weight too fast side to side and makes the car grab really weird. You'll have to play with it to find a happy medium.

-Korey
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Old 07-25-2009, 11:55 AM
  #16984  
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Originally Posted by vazzo
Hey Guys

I'm looking at upgrading my WCE motor mount to the brushless one so I can run hardcore mod Just wanted to find out if there is anything tricky involved ie shimming etc I'm also lookin to upgrade to the lipo conversion upper deck at the same time.

Hey Billythekid if you're worried about lipos coming out of your car get yourself a Cyclone S as there is no way in hell they can come out.

RC Market dude when will you have the lipo conversion kit in stock for the Cyclone? You now how much I love shopping with you
Nope just drop it in! It's an easy direct install, just like the lipo upper deck conversion. The lipo conversion has a spacer that goes under the bulkhead to match the layshaft height up with the brushless motor mount.

-Korey
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Old 07-25-2009, 12:06 PM
  #16985  
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Originally Posted by vazzo
Hey Guys

I'm looking at upgrading my WCE motor mount to the brushless one so I can run hardcore mod Just wanted to find out if there is anything tricky involved ie shimming etc I'm also lookin to upgrade to the lipo conversion upper deck at the same time.

Hey Billythekid if you're worried about lipos coming out of your car get yourself a Cyclone S as there is no way in hell they can come out.

RC Market dude when will you have the lipo conversion kit in stock for the Cyclone? You now how much I love shopping with you
LiPo Conv. kit
Around 1-2 week !
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Old 07-25-2009, 12:40 PM
  #16986  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
I would leave it uncut... and run ATC posts up front if you have them (using 2mm shims instead of the orings). If you are running the chassis that came in the TC kit, it tends to flex a little too much in the front just under the diff, and just about right in the rear. You might even want to try a normal graphite rear plate as well if you can find them.

I would also suggest raising the roll center by adding shims under the suspension and toe blocks. If grip is good enough, you might be able to run as much as 2-3 mm under the suspension blocks. Just be careful though, I've noticed if you're not careful and raise the roll center too much on carpet, it can traction roll really easy when the grip gets high. I think it just makes the car transfer weight too fast side to side and makes the car grab really weird. You'll have to play with it to find a happy medium.

-Korey


Thanks Korey, that's the one thing I haven't tried yet ( raising the roll centers ).
I put the posts in and found an old graphite rear deck so lets hope the higher roll centers do the trick.
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Old 07-25-2009, 12:46 PM
  #16987  
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lipo conversion?
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Old 07-25-2009, 12:59 PM
  #16988  
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I am trying to find a good gift for a friend that he could race RTR in the novice 13.5 class at my local track with me. He doesn't have to be the TQ every time or anything lol, just something that he can upgrade later and that he might be a little competitive right now. I was looking at the HPI E10, but looked and researched harder, and didn't think it would be fast enough to even compete at the lower level. I started to think about the Cyclone S as it looked like the same basic format as the TC (or is it?) and the TC proves to be a good car at my track. Is there any real difference in the two in the means of performance?
Is it a good starter car? What do you all think about it? Thanks
Dan
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Old 07-25-2009, 01:33 PM
  #16989  
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Originally Posted by jag88
Thanks Korey, that's the one thing I haven't tried yet ( raising the roll centers ).
I put the posts in and found an old graphite rear deck so lets hope the higher roll centers do the trick.
I pretty much only run on high bite carpet...

1mm under all of the blocks for roll center...
Silver sway bar in the rear
60Wt (Losi) oil up front with 1.1 pistons
40Wt (Losi) oil in the rear with 1.1 pistons
camber links angled up front and pretty flat in the rear.
2deg camber all the way around.
1.5mm droop front and rear over ride height (sounds like a small amount but the car loves it)
3deg block in the rear
1.5mm front sweep (1.5 block up front)
Jaco blues
1-6-2-0 on my TC spec (The drag break has a big affect over corner speed, so play with this until you find something you like)
Jack the gripper Rear full; front 1/3 inside


hope this helps if you want more specific setup please let me know I can post one.
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Old 07-25-2009, 01:36 PM
  #16990  
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Originally Posted by B18C Turbo
lipo conversion?
after a fair amount of testing the LIPO top deck conversion seems to work very well. The overall affect to the car is nominal, but it sure does let SMC 5200 C-max batteries fit without any issue (with room to spare).
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Old 07-25-2009, 01:52 PM
  #16991  
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
Nope. Traction was pretty dang good despite using those horrid tires... So there wasn't much need to cut the rear deck.

-Korey

Better watch what you say about those tire's. I don't want you receiving the same pm's I got after the Reedy The Speedworld cup was the bomb bro. The tire's that were actually picked for the Reedy worked awesome. If people were happy with the other brand.....they would have loved these. Price was $7 cheaper and they can be used for normal club racing after the event. But don't listen to me since it was stated that I sabotage races by speaking the truth
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Old 07-25-2009, 04:01 PM
  #16992  
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Originally Posted by artwork
I pretty much only run on high bite carpet...

1mm under all of the blocks for roll center...
Silver sway bar in the rear
60Wt (Losi) oil up front with 1.1 pistons
40Wt (Losi) oil in the rear with 1.1 pistons
camber links angled up front and pretty flat in the rear.
2deg camber all the way around.
1.5mm droop front and rear over ride height (sounds like a small amount but the car loves it)
3deg block in the rear
1.5mm front sweep (1.5 block up front)
Jaco blues
1-6-2-0 on my TC spec (The drag break has a big affect over corner speed, so play with this until you find something you like)
Jack the gripper Rear full; front 1/3 inside


hope this helps if you want more specific setup please let me know I can post one.

Artwork, my set up :

1.5 mm frt roll center spacers, 1 mm rear
Silver bar front, no bar rear
50 frt / 45 rear AE oil, 1.1 pistons
2mm frt camber link spacer, inside inner hole
2mm rear camber link spacer, 1mm on hub ( rear link inner is in one hole from most inner position. outter rear link on outter most hole on hub )
1.5 mm droop all around
3 deg rear toe
1.5 front hindge pin sweep
Jaco blue, full Jack front and back

I ran the rear link in the inner most hole and outter most hole on hub with a 2mm spacer on the inside and a 1 mm on the outside. I did this as a desperation move to lock the back end in and BOY it did just that ... too much so that I moved the inner mount out one hole.
This seemed to help.

I think Korey's advise to raise the roll centers is good. I plan to go to 2.5 mm spacers in the front and 2 mm in the rear for staters.

Thanks for posting your set up.
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Old 07-25-2009, 08:06 PM
  #16993  
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I'm back-- After fighting with my xcar for the past month I'm done with it.Today after running(fighting)the xray for 2 rounds,
I said enough- put the cyclone (which hadn't seen the track for a while) down on old tires-for the 3rd- I just smiled-ended up winning my main=x ray now for saleHad a look a the photons also-- 2 cars went thru 4 spools==issues.Think I will stay in the cyclone for a while-- and smile again
Now where are the parts??lol
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Old 07-26-2009, 01:13 AM
  #16994  
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Thanks for your input Art. Its been a while since I have run on really high traction carpet, so any input from people that have experienced it more recently is always helpful.

Jag88- Let us know what you think of the change. I know a lot of people struggled with the car on extremely high bite carpet on rubber tires at some of the bigger races. I remember Sean Williams, another HB driver had success with a setup that used 3mm under the suspension blocks. So I figured it might be a sound suggestion to at least try it.

STLNLST - I guess "horrid" might be a little harsh. I feel they were less than ideal though. They worked fine the first run, but they sure did wear out fast. I think the race I liked most was 2007 Paved nats at SIR. The RP 36 was a DIALED tire at SIR. They usually got better as you used them!

-Korey
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Old 07-26-2009, 09:51 AM
  #16995  
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Hi Guys! I have been converted from 1/8th Truggy nitro to 1/10th on road with the Cyclone TC with a certain amount of success and loving it. My Dad is tearing his hair out (he dosen't have much to start with) trying to set up the steering curve, as the car is very sensitive and twitchy. We have tried all different settings but it would appear to not be working. Have reset the VR etc etc. We have spoken to other Helios users and they say they are experiencing the same problem. I also have my Dad's KO PROPO Mars 2000R limited edition (#0169) which works fine, although my hands are too big for it. I am using the Spektrum 2.4 Module and Receiver. Can anybody using this system please help with settings as here in the UK the main distributor is in the process of changing from Horizon Hobby to RC-Disco so it will take time to get the required info. Please HELP!!
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