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Old 07-20-2009, 08:52 PM   #16891
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Problem is, the TC comes with a 4 hole (90 degree spacing) spur gear hub and all the spur gears offered are 6 hole (60 degree spacing).

If they exist, TC compatible alternatives would be :

a) 4 hole spur gears

OR

b) 6 hole spur gear hub

Any advice would be appreciated.
PM me if you can help.
I don't want to tie up this thread with silly questions.
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Old 07-20-2009, 09:52 PM   #16892
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Originally Posted by B18C Turbo View Post
The problem isn't getting natural steering from the suspension, I have achieved that. The problem is I enjoy the tight circles I can make with the Dual rate at 90% like you have it.

I noticed even if i turn down dual rate to about 60% its still chattery, only when turned of course.

Its actually so bad during high speed cornering with max throw i can feel the car slow down even if i dont let off the throttle because the chatter is so bad.
Not sure what to tell you then. When I put the Ver 3 spool in my car, it chattered less than the 2 way diff that comes in the TC kit. The only thing I can tell you from there is make sure all of your driveshafts and outdrives are in good/new condition. I only put light oil on my cv joints as well. Just a drop or two every run and it seems to work very well. I'm not sure if that would help or make your problem worse, but it may be worth a try.

-Korey
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Old 07-20-2009, 10:05 PM   #16893
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I don't know what to do. I tried swapping the spool for a ball diff, same problem.

So all thats left are the ballbearings, changed those...nope problem still exists.

Ok so what? CVD's? Fine, i put new ones in, bone, axle, coupler, both sides.
Problem remains.

I will make a video and upload it tomorrow?
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Old 07-21-2009, 05:12 PM   #16894
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How much rebound do you guys use for the shocks on a med to high grip asphalt?
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Old 07-21-2009, 05:24 PM   #16895
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Originally Posted by B18C Turbo View Post
I don't know what to do. I tried swapping the spool for a ball diff, same problem.

So all thats left are the ballbearings, changed those...nope problem still exists.

Ok so what? CVD's? Fine, i put new ones in, bone, axle, coupler, both sides.
Problem remains.

I will make a video and upload it tomorrow?

I think HB has released their double cardan joint which would eliminate the problem for sure .

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...id=475&id=8509
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Old 07-21-2009, 05:33 PM   #16896
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Default LIPO Help

I was wondering if someone can point me in the direction to safely securing a lipo into my (new to me) cyclone TC. I have scene all sort of lipo braces for other TC's. I have tried the search bar on this forum and googled it but have not found what I am looking for. I understand there is a new lipo upper deck kit offered my HB, I was looking more for a side impact type brace and hold down kit, other then tape. At my local track we require lipos to be charged in fire bags, so taping them in is a hastle.
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Old 07-21-2009, 07:40 PM   #16897
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Originally Posted by bukil View Post
How much rebound do you guys use for the shocks on a med to high grip asphalt?
I usually run more rebound now on high grip asphalt. It makes it react a little quicker. for lower traction conditions I use less rebound since it seems to smooth the car out and create a little more grip. If the car is too edgy in your conditions, try running a little less rebound.

-Korey
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Old 07-21-2009, 08:14 PM   #16898
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Originally Posted by zleader_99 View Post
I was wondering if someone can point me in the direction to safely securing a lipo into my (new to me) cyclone TC. I have scene all sort of lipo braces for other TC's. I have tried the search bar on this forum and googled it but have not found what I am looking for. I understand there is a new lipo upper deck kit offered my HB, I was looking more for a side impact type brace and hold down kit, other then tape. At my local track we require lipos to be charged in fire bags, so taping them in is a hastle.
Hi zleader, you could find some battery tape from your local r/c shop. Those battery tape is really sticky, you'll be able to re-tape your lipo again to your chassis. Those battery tape usually cost around $12 and 1 roll could last me a yr or so, try it and it's definately the best way to secure your lipo with no hastle at all.

What I did to prevent the side impact is like the other's mentioned. Find the plastic servo mount(2), mount it on the center of the bottom deck, it can prevent the lipo move in and hit the gears by the side impact. You don't really need to worry about the lipo itself, the case (trackpower) is strong enough for that. Hope these help.
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Old 07-21-2009, 08:25 PM   #16899
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Originally Posted by zleader_99 View Post
I was wondering if someone can point me in the direction to safely securing a lipo into my (new to me) cyclone TC. I have scene all sort of lipo braces for other TC's. I have tried the search bar on this forum and googled it but have not found what I am looking for. I understand there is a new lipo upper deck kit offered my HB, I was looking more for a side impact type brace and hold down kit, other then tape. At my local track we require lipos to be charged in fire bags, so taping them in is a hastle.
if your chassis has the holes for the battery brace.then you can get the lipo battery adapter tray that corally sells. their ph# is 407-681-5908. ask them if it would fit .or you can contact www.exotekracing.com they make lipo trays too. T.O.P. racing has a lipo tray for their tc as well.
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Old 07-22-2009, 05:25 AM   #16900
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I just bought the new zero degree rear hubs and the ball stud seems to long. Is there a particular ball stud I need to buy for the new hubs?

Cheers
Adrian
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Old 07-22-2009, 06:55 AM   #16901
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I just bought the new zero degree rear hubs and the ball stud seems to long. Is there a particular ball stud I need to buy for the new hubs?

Cheers
Adrian

There are two different sizes...I would try these they are only 10.3mm instead of 13mm.

http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/products/en/75115.html

They also make an aluminum version as well.
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Old 07-22-2009, 11:15 AM   #16902
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Exclamation swaybar gap

The kit Cyclone TC setup uses a 1.0mm gap on the swaybar linkage for both front and rear.

Hara RROC setup uses a gap of 2.5mm on the front, and 3.0mm on the rear.

What does increasing and decreasing this gap actually affect ?

Cheers
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Old 07-22-2009, 11:34 AM   #16903
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Originally Posted by cosmo1974 View Post
The kit Cyclone TC setup uses a 1.0mm gap on the swaybar linkage for both front and rear.

Hara RROC setup uses a gap of 2.5mm on the front, and 3.0mm on the rear.

What does increasing and decreasing this gap actually affect ?

Cheers
This is actually a really cool adjustment. The bigger that gap is, the more the swaybar is slanted. The more slant it has, the less "direct" it will feel. It becomes more progressive, so it will give the feeling of a softer swaybar initially, then get stiffer further into the turn.

I run 2.0mm up front, and 3.0mm in the back almost everywhere. You might need to use a longer ball stud to make sure it has enough thread in the swaybar link.

-Korey
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Old 07-22-2009, 11:59 AM   #16904
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
This is actually a really cool adjustment. The bigger that gap is, the more the swaybar is slanted. The more slant it has, the less "direct" it will feel. It becomes more progressive, so it will give the feeling of a softer swaybar initially, then get stiffer further into the turn.

I run 2.0mm up front, and 3.0mm in the back almost everywhere. You might need to use a longer ball stud to make sure it has enough thread in the swaybar link.

-Korey
(1) This sounds similar to the effect caused by slanting the top shock position (ie: softer initially, then harder as compressed = progressive).

(2) Another query. The downstop values used by Hara and yourself are 9.0mm front and 8.5mm rear. I'm setting up my car at the moment and find that this causes the downstop screws to hit the chassis under static load. Is this correct (I guess not), or am I measuring something wrong (more likely)?

Cheers
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Old 07-22-2009, 12:08 PM   #16905
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Originally Posted by cosmo1974 View Post
(1) This sounds similar to the effect caused by slanting the top shock position (ie: softer initially, then harder as compressed = progressive).

(2) Another query. The downstop values used by Hara and yourself are 9.0mm front and 8.5mm rear. I'm setting up my car at the moment and find that this causes the downstop screws to hit the chassis under static load. Is this correct (I guess not), or am I measuring something wrong (more likely)?

Cheers
The big droop numbers are measured to the center of the pin, not under the arm.
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