EJ20

Hi zleader, you could find some battery tape from your local r/c shop. Those battery tape is really sticky, you'll be able to re-tape your lipo again to your chassis. Those battery tape usually cost around $12 and 1 roll could last me a yr or so, try it and it's definately the best way to secure your lipo with no hastle at all.

What I did to prevent the side impact is like the other's mentioned. Find the plastic servo mount(2), mount it on the center of the bottom deck, it can prevent the lipo move in and hit the gears by the side impact. You don't really need to worry about the lipo itself, the case (trackpower) is strong enough for that. Hope these help.

mr fit

if your chassis has the holes for the battery brace.then you can get the lipo battery adapter tray that corally sells. their ph# is 407-681-5908. ask them if it would fit .or you can contact www.exotekracing.com they make lipo trays too. T.O.P. racing has a lipo tray for their tc as well.

vazzo

iTrader: (101)

I just bought the new zero degree rear hubs and the ball stud seems to long. Is there a particular ball stud I need to buy for the new hubs?

Cheers
Adrian

artwork

iTrader: (88)

There are two different sizes...I would try these they are only 10.3mm instead of 13mm.

http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/products/en/75115.html

They also make an aluminum version as well.

cosmo1974

iTrader: (3)

The kit Cyclone TC setup uses a 1.0mm gap on the swaybar linkage for both front and rear.

Hara RROC setup uses a gap of 2.5mm on the front, and 3.0mm on the rear.

What does increasing and decreasing this gap actually affect ?

Cheers

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

This is actually a really cool adjustment. The bigger that gap is, the more the swaybar is slanted. The more slant it has, the less "direct" it will feel. It becomes more progressive, so it will give the feeling of a softer swaybar initially, then get stiffer further into the turn.

I run 2.0mm up front, and 3.0mm in the back almost everywhere. You might need to use a longer ball stud to make sure it has enough thread in the swaybar link.

-Korey

cosmo1974

iTrader: (3)

(1) This sounds similar to the effect caused by slanting the top shock position (ie: softer initially, then harder as compressed = progressive).

(2) Another query. The downstop values used by Hara and yourself are 9.0mm front and 8.5mm rear. I'm setting up my car at the moment and find that this causes the downstop screws to hit the chassis under static load. Is this correct (I guess not), or am I measuring something wrong (more likely)?

Cheers

balistic

iTrader: (113)

The big droop numbers are measured to the center of the pin, not under the arm.

cosmo1974

iTrader: (3)

Thanks.
That measuring technique is much nicer.

Hi-LowBlow

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Korey for posting this. This is exactly what i explained to you about the gap between the sway bar links BUT it is just from my experiences so others may feel differently. I just wanted to share my thought. (I didn't know Korey will post this to tell everyone!!)

Thanks,

Syber Serulean

iTrader: (28)

internal secrets being leaked zomggggg

EJ20

Hi Hiro San, Korey, actually I have another experience want to share beside your's which is really good option for setting up the swaybar. On mine's (and friends) other thought is we could use it for tunning the sway bar raise up more evenly on both side. That is a lot easier for us to tune it compare to the old style's.

Out of the topic, I personally really please for everybody if we can share our experiences more often on here so we could improve alot not only driving but also tunning and building it acuate especially for some new Cyclone drivers.

THANKS.

DG Designs

iTrader: (14)

I am sorry but there are just way to many ways to tune myself into a hole on current Touring cars!.

cosmo1974

iTrader: (3)

Understanding the theory a little better will help improve setup, and then driving. I've taken a lot more interest in the last couple of months since I purchased my TC. There are only two major references you need:

(1) Hudy Setup Book. However, the Xray T2 Setup Book is 98% in common and is available for download from the Xray site (pdf).

(2) RC Car Handling - theory (http://home.scarlet.be/~be067749/58/)

Read and understand these two references and you will be the local pro

Cheers

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Well, I did test it myself and I felt the same thing. So... they can blame me if it's wrong . Since the swaybar is not at a 90 deg angle to the motion of the arm, it will act softer when it is angled. Maybe if I get bored I'll draw some diagrams and some math equations to explain... actually... never mind. I don't feel like doing math in the summer .

So more gap in the rear seemed to make the rotate better in the rear going into the corner. When I reduced that gap, it actually locked in the rear end a little more. It will have varied results depending on how much grip is on the track though. For everyone, I'd say it's a worthwhile adjustment to at least try, and see what it does. Post your results here and let us know.

EJ20- I'm assuming that was actually the REAL intent of the design. It's to make slight tweaks to the swaybar to make sure it acts evenly on both sides of the car. Plus you can make much finer adjustments with the new mounting system, compared with the old.

-Korey