Man I am fighting temptation very hard right now. I need to raise some cash for a project and im trying my best to not sell my sedan before I even run it.
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I would think less arm sweep would give more ackerman. It would be like moving the inner pivot points of the steering rod back (less shims).
...
-Korey
(1) The T2 setup book recommends the following:
-- More Ackermann for low to medium grip conditions
-- Less Ackermann for medium to high grip conditions
Why is this so
Does this always hold true
(2) The outdoor asphalt track I am running on is considered to be a low grip track.
Therefore more Ackermann should be better
(3) I also noticed that the Hara setup has the front and rear shocks more inclined than the kit setup.
(a) The Hudy setup book indicates the following for this setup:
-- Makes the spring and damping softer
-- Makes the car more progressive, giving a smoother feel and more lateral grip
-- When all 4 shocks are inclined it makes the car very easy to drive, and it feels like the car has more grip, but it is not always the fastest.
(b) The Hudy setup book also states the following when the rear is more inclined than the front:
-- Makes the car feel aggressive turning into a corner, but most of the time the car will have slightly less steering.
-- Car will have abundant lateral grip in the rear, so turning radius wont be very tight
(c) What does "more progressive" actually mean in practice
(4) The track I am running on with the TC is about 1000' in length, has a 210' straight, and has another high speed section which goes abruptly into a very tight "S" section (everyone has to stand on the brakes and drive very slowing in the first part of the "S"). It is considered a low grip track by Australian standards. Takeoff 32 tires, with medium/blue inserts are popular. The 10.5 BL are quite fast (especially with TEKIN RS Pro + Boost), and only slightly slower than the modified 4/4.5T BL class.
(5) I like the idea of running the shocks more inclined, and probably rear more inclined than front.
Does this make sense for this track
I'm also curious about other required changes that are directly related to using more inclined shocks (if any)
(1) The T2 setup book recommends the following:
-- More Ackermann for low to medium grip conditions
-- Less Ackermann for medium to high grip conditions
Why is this so
Does this always hold true
(2) The outdoor asphalt track I am running on is considered to be a low grip track.
Therefore more Ackermann should be better
(3) I also noticed that the Hara setup has the front and rear shocks more inclined than the kit setup.
(a) The Hudy setup book indicates the following for this setup:
-- Makes the spring and damping softer
-- Makes the car more progressive, giving a smoother feel and more lateral grip
-- When all 4 shocks are inclined it makes the car very easy to drive, and it feels like the car has more grip, but it is not always the fastest.
(b) The Hudy setup book also states the following when the rear is more inclined than the front:
-- Makes the car feel aggressive turning into a corner, but most of the time the car will have slightly less steering.
-- Car will have abundant lateral grip in the rear, so turning radius wont be very tight
(c) What does "more progressive" actually mean in practice
(4) The track I am running on with the TC is about 1000' in length, has a 210' straight, and has another high speed section which goes abruptly into a very tight "S" section (everyone has to stand on the brakes and drive very slowing in the first part of the "S"). It is considered a low grip track by Australian standards. Takeoff 32 tires, with medium/blue inserts are popular. The 10.5 BL are quite fast (especially with TEKIN RS Pro + Boost), and only slightly slower than the modified 4/4.5T BL class.
(5) I like the idea of running the shocks more inclined, and probably rear more inclined than front.
Does this make sense for this track
I'm also curious about other required changes that are directly related to using more inclined shocks (if any)
Many thanks in advance
u got a very very very big track ther... 1000' long..?
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There are more in racing than winning.
(1) The T2 setup book recommends the following:
-- More Ackermann for low to medium grip conditions
-- Less Ackermann for medium to high grip conditions
Why is this so
Does this always hold true
(2) The outdoor asphalt track I am running on is considered to be a low grip track.
Therefore more Ackermann should be better
(3) I also noticed that the Hara setup has the front and rear shocks more inclined than the kit setup.
(a) The Hudy setup book indicates the following for this setup:
-- Makes the spring and damping softer
-- Makes the car more progressive, giving a smoother feel and more lateral grip
-- When all 4 shocks are inclined it makes the car very easy to drive, and it feels like the car has more grip, but it is not always the fastest.
(b) The Hudy setup book also states the following when the rear is more inclined than the front:
-- Makes the car feel aggressive turning into a corner, but most of the time the car will have slightly less steering.
-- Car will have abundant lateral grip in the rear, so turning radius wont be very tight
(c) What does "more progressive" actually mean in practice
(4) The track I am running on with the TC is about 1000' in length, has a 210' straight, and has another high speed section which goes abruptly into a very tight "S" section (everyone has to stand on the brakes and drive very slowing in the first part of the "S"). It is considered a low grip track by Australian standards. Takeoff 32 tires, with medium/blue inserts are popular. The 10.5 BL are quite fast (especially with TEKIN RS Pro + Boost), and only slightly slower than the modified 4/4.5T BL class.
(5) I like the idea of running the shocks more inclined, and probably rear more inclined than front.
Does this make sense for this track
I'm also curious about other required changes that are directly related to using more inclined shocks (if any)
Many thanks in advance
Shock position is a very interesting thing. Something I have been testing lately is how shock position changes tend to act differently when using a spool on asphalt. I have found that when the shocks are layed down a lot in the rear, in certain conditions, will actually free up the car through the middle of the corner and on power. When I stood the shocks up from that point, the car created more forward grip, but was a little more edgy.
As a general statement, what the xray book says is correct. But is it correct all the time? Not always. Sometimes you'll just have to try something, and forget what setup books say. I've had a lot of problems with that lately, but I'm starting to get used to it now LMAO.
Steering geometry is something I haven't messed with a whole lot on this car because I've liked the way it felt with 4mm on the center bell crank. Typically if you went to 2mm on the center bell crank, it will smooth steering out initially, but give a little more steering in the middle of the corner. This is because of the angle in the steering links. The straighter they are, the more aggressive the car will be initially, then smooth out through the rest of the corner. It can get more complicated though. It also depends on how much arm sweep you are running, and your wheelbase setting.
As a general statement, the more angled the steering links are, the smoother the car is initially, and can create a little more steering in the middle and exit of the corner. The straighter the links are, the more aggressive the car is right off center. If it feels a little too... "twitchy" you can remove some shims from the center bellcrank on our car. Different cars can react differently to this, and it all depends how the steering geometry is setup. The way I'm describing it here is what I have found on the cyclone, so it may or may not be applicable to other cars.
Hope that helps!
-Korey
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Last edited by Korey Harbke; 07-01-2009 at 11:37 AM.
Shock position is a very interesting thing. Something I have been testing lately is how shock position changes tend to act differently when using a spool on asphalt. I have found that when the shocks are layed down a lot in the rear, in certain conditions, will actually free up the car through the middle of the corner and on power. When I stood the shocks up from that point, the car created more forward grip, but was a little more edgy.
As a general statement, what the xray book says is correct. But is it correct all the time? Not always. Sometimes you'll just have to try something, and forget what setup books say. I've had a lot of problems with that lately, but I'm starting to get used to it now LMAO.
Steering geometry is something I haven't messed with a whole lot on this car because I've liked the way it felt with 4mm on the center bell crank. Typically if you went to 2mm on the center bell crank, it will smooth steering out initially, but give a little more steering in the middle of the corner. This is because of the angle in the steering links. The straighter they are, the more aggressive the car will be initially, then smooth out through the rest of the corner. It can get more complicated though. It also depends on how much arm sweep you are running, and your wheelbase setting.
As a general statement, the more angled the steering links are, the smoother the car is initially, and can create a little more steering in the middle and exit of the corner. The straighter the links are, the more aggressive the car is right off center. If it feels a little too... "twitchy" you can remove some shims from the center bellcrank on our car. Different cars can react differently to this, and it all depends how the steering geometry is setup. The way I'm describing it here is what I have found on the cyclone, so it may or may not be applicable to other cars.
Hope that helps!
-Korey
Front arm spacing will be affected so be careful with that too when you play with the ackerman thing...
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Shock position is a very interesting thing. Something I have been testing lately is how shock position changes tend to act differently when using a spool on asphalt. I have found that when the shocks are layed down a lot in the rear, in certain conditions, will actually free up the car through the middle of the corner and on power. When I stood the shocks up from that point, the car created more forward grip, but was a little more edgy.
As a general statement, what the xray book says is correct. But is it correct all the time? Not always. Sometimes you'll just have to try something, and forget what setup books say. I've had a lot of problems with that lately, but I'm starting to get used to it now LMAO.
Steering geometry is something I haven't messed with a whole lot on this car because I've liked the way it felt with 4mm on the center bell crank. Typically if you went to 2mm on the center bell crank, it will smooth steering out initially, but give a little more steering in the middle of the corner. This is because of the angle in the steering links. The straighter they are, the more aggressive the car will be initially, then smooth out through the rest of the corner. It can get more complicated though. It also depends on how much arm sweep you are running, and your wheelbase setting.
As a general statement, the more angled the steering links are, the smoother the car is initially, and can create a little more steering in the middle and exit of the corner. The straighter the links are, the more aggressive the car is right off center. If it feels a little too... "twitchy" you can remove some shims from the center bellcrank on our car. Different cars can react differently to this, and it all depends how the steering geometry is setup. The way I'm describing it here is what I have found on the cyclone, so it may or may not be applicable to other cars.
Hope that helps!
-Korey
Yes, thanks.
If I understand the theory a bit better I should (hopefully) be able to make more sensible changes at the track !!
Steering geometry is something I haven't messed with a whole lot on this car because I've liked the way it felt with 4mm on the center bell crank. Typically if you went to 2mm on the center bell crank, it will smooth steering out initially, but give a little more steering in the middle of the corner. This is because of the angle in the steering links. The straighter they are, the more aggressive the car will be initially, then smooth out through the rest of the corner. It can get more complicated though. It also depends on how much arm sweep you are running, and your wheelbase setting.
As a general statement, the more angled the steering links are, the smoother the car is initially, and can create a little more steering in the middle and exit of the corner. The straighter the links are, the more aggressive the car is right off center. If it feels a little too... "twitchy" you can remove some shims from the center bellcrank on our car. Different cars can react differently to this, and it all depends how the steering geometry is setup. The way I'm describing it here is what I have found on the cyclone, so it may or may not be applicable to other cars.
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