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Old 06-29-2009, 07:45 AM   #16696
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Again !
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Old 06-29-2009, 08:11 AM   #16697
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does anybody know where i can find The Jet aluminum steering knuckles
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Old 06-29-2009, 08:20 AM   #16698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Stamper View Post
Sorry to sound like a moron here, but sifting through over 1000 pages has been fun and time consuming. I need a lil help from the masses on something. I have never raced a Lipo/BL setup and the 2006 IIC was my last big race becuase of family/funding issues. I think a 3 year retirement is too long, I wanna play again.

I have a BMI hara kit that I raced in the 2006 IIC. It's still setup for foam and I luckily kept all of my stuff.

The questions I have are:

1. Lipo, do I need anything special to get it to fit
2. Brushless, are the pulleys and the motor plate needed? Will the plate fit?

I am planning on buying the diffs, and the newer front universals. Also plan on updating to the TC suspension parts.

I plan to get a 13.5 BL setup going and I might not be able to get going in this year's IIC, I am looking into hitting some of the other races this year.

Sucks that I have about 15 built and ready 19T motors and around 12 nimh packs that are paper weights now.

Thanks in advance if anyone can help,

Tim
Hey Tim.
1. The stock chassis/blocks fit up to a 4K pack. I can fit a ThunderPower 5K 40c pack by dremmeling part of the upper plat's bulkhead(takes 1 min to do.)
2. You can run brushless with teh stock 16T pulleys as well. Basically, with the cyclone, you can run brushless and lipo with no issues.
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Old 06-29-2009, 09:56 AM   #16699
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Hey Tim.
1. The stock chassis/blocks fit up to a 4K pack. I can fit a ThunderPower 5K 40c pack by dremmeling part of the upper plat's bulkhead(takes 1 min to do.)
2. You can run brushless with teh stock 16T pulleys as well. Basically, with the cyclone, you can run brushless and lipo with no issues.
Thank you, those were the answers I was hoping for.

I figured I might have to bust out the dremel for somethin, so no worries.

Thanks again,

Tim
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Old 06-30-2009, 09:38 AM   #16700
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Hi,

I'm after some feedback after 2 race meets with my Cyclone TC.

Background information:
==================
Gear >> TEKIN RS Pro + 10.5 Redline + Cyclone TC + EP 5200 35C + Mx3 Radio + TC1030
Track >> outdoor asphalt, 1000' length, 210' straight, hi-speed into tight "S"

I started with the Cyclone TC "standard" setup.
I have attached the standard setup sheet (pdf format) just in case there is any confusion.

First race meet:
============
I forgot to apply black grease to the CVD joints, and broke a CVD pin each race.

Second race meet:
==============
I purchased some Muchmore 32 Absolute pre-mounts. As the first race progressed the car became more and more taily, and then started to do 180+ degree spins. When I came off I found that all the tires were coming unglued from the rims. The left-rear tire was 100% unglued. The other guys at the track indicated that this was a known problem with the MM pre-mounts. Advice was to get loose tires and do your own gluing. The only other tires I had were used Takeoff CS-32s (with medium/blue inserts).

With the Takeoffs, high speed cornering and medium speed direction changes seemed reasonable. However, coming out of a slow speed corner and applying power, the car would spin out very easily. When I looked at the Takeoffs they had some slight tire peeling (nothing like the Muchmore tires) but I'm not sure if this was enough to cause problems.

Preparing for Third race meet:
=======================
I have purchased loose Takeoff CS-32 tires, medium/blue insets, yokomo rims, and prepared / glued myself. So if anything goes wrong with the tires, I only have myself to blame.

Challenge for Third race meet:
=======================
So lets say that I get to the track for my 3rd race meet, the tires donít come unglued, but I'm still having tailyness issues when applying power coming out of slow speed corners.
** I would appreciate a list of changes I should try, and their ordering, in an attempt to help resolve the tailyness issue.

Other Query.
==========
As I was looking at some of the other drivers setup sheets on the web, I started to wonder how the SAME angled pivot blocks (2.5 and 3.0 degs in kit) can be used on the front AND rear of the car. I initially assumed they were used to set anti-dive and anti-squat, but I'm not so sure after reading a thread discussion which indicates that the purple shims are (can be) used to do these adjustments.

I have the Hudy setup theory book and the sections on anti-dive and anti-squat make sense. That is, the more the arms lean backwards the larger the angle. The angle can be increased by raising the FRONT of the suspension arm (lowering rear would be equivalent). This applies to the front and rear arms. All makes sense.

However, that is where I have an issue with the Cyclone TC angled pivot blocks (assuming they are used for anti-dive and anti-squat). They are mounted in front of the front suspension arm, but at the REAR of the rear suspension arm. The same block used at one end would increase the angle, while at the other end it would DECREASE the angle. This does not make sense to me, as the pivot blocks are labelled with fixed angles, and can be used at the front or rear of the car.
** What am I missing ?

Thanks in advance
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Old 06-30-2009, 09:47 AM   #16701
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how many CVD pins did you break? I never grease my CVD"s, just keep them clean and I've only broke 1 on my yokomo.
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Old 06-30-2009, 10:21 AM   #16702
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Those blocks adjust toe in in the rear, and arm sweep up front. What they do is angle the arms forward or back depending on what end of the car you are adjusting (look at the arms/inner hinge pins from the top of the car and you'll see what I mean).

You adjust antisquat, prosquat, antidive, and kickup all by adding or removing shims from under those "toe blocks".

I'll be honest, I'm not a fan of the kit setup. I would start with either Hara's 2008 reedy race setup, or try Andy Moore's 2006 worlds winning setup. Either one of those is a good starting point for setup. You can find these on http://www.hotbodiesonline.com in the setup sheet section.

-Korey
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Old 06-30-2009, 11:03 AM   #16703
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I would also suggest you get some SJR racing tires from Speedworld. Tires can make a BIG difference in a setup.
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Old 06-30-2009, 11:41 AM   #16704
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I know this has been ask before but my shock leak, change all seals but still leak at the shock shaft is there a remedy for the leaky shaft.
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Old 06-30-2009, 12:54 PM   #16705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramyuras View Post
I know this has been ask before but my shock leak, change all seals but still leak at the shock shaft is there a remedy for the leaky shaft.
I've been has the same issue till now, use shock slim, it still the same but little better. But what I know is it's happen on almost every other brand, they always got little wet on the Spring retainer. So, I just keep an eye on it if I notice any rebound changed, just rebuild it or refill it. It just a minor issue for me now.
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Old 06-30-2009, 04:51 PM   #16706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Those blocks adjust toe in in the rear, and arm sweep up front. What they do is angle the arms forward or back depending on what end of the car you are adjusting (look at the arms/inner hinge pins from the top of the car and you'll see what I mean).

You adjust antisquat, prosquat, antidive, and kickup all by adding or removing shims from under those "toe blocks".

I'll be honest, I'm not a fan of the kit setup. I would start with either Hara's 2008 reedy race setup, or try Andy Moore's 2006 worlds winning setup. Either one of those is a good starting point for setup. You can find these on http://www.hotbodiesonline.com in the setup sheet section.

-Korey

(1) Shims for anti-dive and anti-squat makes more sense (for any given arm, raise front block with shim, to increase value).

(2) Pivot blocks for horizontal plain adjustment also makes more sense.
(a) Toe in at rear I get.
(b) I'm not so sure about "arm sweep" at front. Obviously not front toe-in, as that is adjusted at the steering knuckle only. The "arm sweep" adjusts the whole suspension arm. The kit setup uses 2.5 degrees at front, while Atsushi Hara, Hiro Kasuya, Scott Barnes, all use 1 degree up front (they all stick with 3 degrees at rear). Is there a simple explanation of arm sweep (especialy compared to toe in)
(c) If I change arm sweep, is there anything else I must adjust as well (and why)

(3) The Atsushi Hara setup I have is from Speedworld 05/28/08. Is this the Reedy Race setup mentioned above
The kit standard setup uses 2mm shims all round. The Hara setup uses 1mm all round at front, and 1.5mm all round at rear. What is the logic behind this (as it is not changing anti-dive or squat just "height")

(4) I cut the centre from the FRP plate. Just wondering if this is a good or bad idea

Cheers
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Old 06-30-2009, 05:13 PM   #16707
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Arm sweep is a pretty cool adjustment. What it does is sweep the front arms back. Technically, it changes ackerman and wheelbase as well but I just sweep that under the rug and don't think about it . Usually you'll just have to re check your front toe in and steering end points after you make a front arm sweep change.

Now, more arm sweep (say... 2.5 deg), will give you a slightly smoother car entering the corner, but will make the car steer a lot more around the apex of the corner. Less arm sweep (like 1 or 1.5 deg) will do the opposite. You'll have a slightly more aggressive car entering the corner, and smoother through the middle and exit of the corner.

Shims under the suspension blocks changes the roll center of the car. Generally in touring cars when you lower the hinge pins, it lowers the roll center. Raise them up, it raises the roll center.

A Higher roll center will generally create more initial grip into the corner, but less in the middle and exit. It also makes it feel as though the car transfers weight side to side much faster as well. Probably because it doesn't roll as much.

A Lower roll center will smooth out the car initially, but give more traction in the middle and exit of the corner. Generally it gives the car more roll, and makes it feel like weight transfers slower side to side.

So like in Hara's setup, he's running 1.0mm up front. The speedmind/sorex premounts have been notorious for making your car have an odd push compared to some other combos. This setup will bring back some of that steering at the apex of the corner. I run 1.0mm up front a lot, and it seems to work well. I usually always start with 1.5mm under all the suspension and toe blocks as a good baseline.

Hope that helps!!!

-Korey
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Old 06-30-2009, 06:25 PM   #16708
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Arm sweep is a pretty cool adjustment. What it does is sweep the front arms back. Technically, it changes ackerman and wheelbase as well but I just sweep that under the rug and don't think about it . Usually you'll just have to re check your front toe in and steering end points after you make a front arm sweep change.

Now, more arm sweep (say... 2.5 deg), will give you a slightly smoother car entering the corner, but will make the car steer a lot more around the apex of the corner. Less arm sweep (like 1 or 1.5 deg) will do the opposite. You'll have a slightly more aggressive car entering the corner, and smoother through the middle and exit of the corner.

Shims under the suspension blocks changes the roll center of the car. Generally in touring cars when you lower the hinge pins, it lowers the roll center. Raise them up, it raises the roll center.

A Higher roll center will generally create more initial grip into the corner, but less in the middle and exit. It also makes it feel as though the car transfers weight side to side much faster as well. Probably because it doesn't roll as much.

A Lower roll center will smooth out the car initially, but give more traction in the middle and exit of the corner. Generally it gives the car more roll, and makes it feel like weight transfers slower side to side.

So like in Hara's setup, he's running 1.0mm up front. The speedmind/sorex premounts have been notorious for making your car have an odd push compared to some other combos. This setup will bring back some of that steering at the apex of the corner. I run 1.0mm up front a lot, and it seems to work well. I usually always start with 1.5mm under all the suspension and toe blocks as a good baseline.

Hope that helps!!!

-Korey
Lets see if I have got this correct.

(1) The 1.0mm shims up front will lower the hinge pins and therefore lower the roll centre (relative to the kit setup). This will give more traction in the middle and exit of the corner.
The Hudy setup guide says the following when lowering the front roll centre:
-- More on-throttle steering
-- Car is less responsive
-- More weight transfer at front of car
-- Better on smooth, high grip tracks with long fast corners

(2) The 1 degree pivot block up front will sweep the front arms back less than the kit setup (at 2.5 degrees). This will give a slightly more aggressive car entering the corner, and smoother through the middle and exit of the corner.

(3) Nothing on Ackermann in the Hudy setup book. However, the T2 setup book does. I can adjust Ackermann by changing the angle of the steering rods (eg: at the connection point with the servo saver). At the inner Ackermann position (ie: servo saver point), moving steering rods more forward gives less Ackermann and moving steering rods rearward (straighter) gives more Ackermann. I notice that Hara has moved steering rods rearward (2mm shim instead of kit 4mm shim) giving more Ackermann.

(4) Does less arm sweep (1 degree) give more, or less, Ackermann

I'm gradually learning - which is good
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Old 06-30-2009, 06:58 PM   #16709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmo1974 View Post
Lets see if I have got this correct.

(1) The 1.0mm shims up front will lower the hinge pins and therefore lower the roll centre (relative to the kit setup). This will give more traction in the middle and exit of the corner.
The Hudy setup guide says the following when lowering the front roll centre:
-- More on-throttle steering
-- Car is less responsive
-- More weight transfer at front of car
-- Better on smooth, high grip tracks with long fast corners

(2) The 1 degree pivot block up front will sweep the front arms back less than the kit setup (at 2.5 degrees). This will give a slightly more aggressive car entering the corner, and smoother through the middle and exit of the corner.

(3) Nothing on Ackermann in the Hudy setup book. However, the T2 setup book does. I can adjust Ackermann by changing the angle of the steering rods (eg: at the connection point with the servo saver). At the inner Ackermann position (ie: servo saver point), moving steering rods more forward gives less Ackermann and moving steering rods rearward (straighter) gives more Ackermann. I notice that Hara has moved steering rods rearward (2mm shim instead of kit 4mm shim) giving more Ackermann.

(4) Does less arm sweep (1 degree) give more, or less, Ackermann

I'm gradually learning - which is good
I would think less arm sweep would give more ackerman. It would be like moving the inner pivot points of the steering rod back (less shims).

Everything else you said seems sound.

-Korey
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:03 PM   #16710
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I'm shear some where in this thread i have been asked. but im running a 2 cyclone s chassis with gecko tires mid to hard compound. depending on what heat we are in. i keep braking the belt gear going to the front in my super stock one. the pin is holding up find. i dont know if im just getting by belt gears or not. i wont to know if there is a alum gears i can get.

as for my other one im running 7800kv with a 26t p and a 84t s (drag car), is there any way to get more power out of it with out changing my my pinon and spur. someone told me that you can get deff belt gears with diff teeth i seen the belts with more teeth but i have not seen the gears, any the local hobby should cant seem to find any.
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