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Old 05-09-2009, 08:32 AM   #16216
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I thought of that but the screw head doesn't seem to get to the edge of the out drive. I ll have to check again in better light. Thanks. By the way as far as the tub breaking i cut the back off all the way to the edge of the rear suspension mount. That extra area behind could give a fair amount of leverage on an area that does not have a lot of support. Trust me i stress tested it a lot last weekend and it is still ok
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Old 05-09-2009, 09:50 PM   #16217
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Yup see ya tomorrow
I was fast 2day
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Old 05-09-2009, 09:57 PM   #16218
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I was fast 2day
Lucky.....

I you sure everyone else wasn't slow.....
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Old 05-10-2009, 09:46 AM   #16219
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Korey, what is the latest and greatest shock towers we should be using ? I've come up with three different part numbers and don't know what the difference is between them other then one of them is 3.5 mm thick. Front and rear.

Also what is the part number for the shock o-ring we should be using ?
Have you ever tried Tamiya o-rings ?

Thanks.
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Old 05-10-2009, 10:47 AM   #16220
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jag-The WCE towers are very nice, lots of shock mounting options! The TC towers are very similiar but if im not mistaken may be a touch (1mm?) taller or shorter than the WCE towers.

Im using HPI #6820 Silicone O-ring with great success, I have been told it is the same silicone O-ring used in the Tamiya TRF dampers, but I will confirm this myself later this week!
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Old 05-10-2009, 05:21 PM   #16221
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Lucky.....

I you sure everyone else wasn't slow.....
I told everyone that when I was done testing motor and speedo's I was going to get the set up dialed
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Old 05-10-2009, 06:05 PM   #16222
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hey superior hobbies.com hve them i bought one last week im waiting may get it tomorrow
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Old 05-10-2009, 09:06 PM   #16223
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Korey, what is the latest and greatest shock towers we should be using ? I've come up with three different part numbers and don't know what the difference is between them other then one of them is 3.5 mm thick. Front and rear.

Also what is the part number for the shock o-ring we should be using ?
Have you ever tried Tamiya o-rings ?

Thanks.
There are two sets of shock towers that have the "half-hole" adjustments. Which one you choose just depends on what you are doing, and which upper bulkhead you have on you car.

If running the upper bulkheads with 4 camber link positions that come in every kit other than the Cyclone TC, then you want to use the 61090, and 61091. If you are running on foam tires, HB offers some lowered versions so you can slam your body down more, you'll want to use 61287 and 67705. These towers are 2mm lower.

If you are running a cyclone TC, or you are running the newest upper bulkheads that only have 2 camber link positions, then you want to run 61287 and 67705. The newer upper bulkheads are 2mm taller, so you need to use the lowered shock towers to get the correct geometry. I personally run this combo.

-Korey
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Old 05-11-2009, 06:05 AM   #16224
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hey superior hobbies.com hve them i bought one last week im waiting may get it tomorrow
thanks man but is out of stock :S
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Old 05-11-2009, 06:10 AM   #16225
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I have a setup question. what are some things you could try to get rid of a hook. I go around the corner and when I get on the gas the car just wants to spin the way I was just turned. It is not really loose. It just wants to keep going in a circle and not straighten up. This is on asphalt.

p.s. dont let lazerguy see this
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Old 05-11-2009, 07:03 AM   #16226
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I have a setup question. what are some things you could try to get rid of a hook. I go around the corner and when I get on the gas the car just wants to spin the way I was just turned. It is not really loose. It just wants to keep going in a circle and not straighten up. This is on asphalt.

p.s. dont let lazerguy see this
verify its diff not this very untied.
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Old 05-11-2009, 07:10 AM   #16227
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Well guys,

Finally ended buying for my already fully upgraded Cyclone S :

- 3Racing CF Chassis
- 3Racing CF shock towers (f/r)
- 3Racing CF Upper Deck

So, in about 2 weeks i will have a fully race ready CF Cyclone "S" ... right now i tested again my "S" tube chassis fully upgraded against couple TC5's at the track (asphalt, 13.5 brushless, nimh 6 cells, rubber tires) and im behind couple of ones and in front of another ones lol !, im a heavy chassis compared to the others, hope to get a little improvement once i install the full CF parts,

thanks for all for now guys, you have been very helpfull people !!, i have a race coming this weekend and i will attend it with tube chassis, hope to get some video of it !!, this is the track layout ! (back straight its about 60 meters long) :



cya !
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Old 05-11-2009, 07:24 AM   #16228
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Seems to me weight is not really an issue anymore as eveyone has to run extra anyway, unless you are not runnng Lipo.
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Old 05-11-2009, 08:51 AM   #16229
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verify its diff not this very untied.
It sounds like you need to transfer more weight to the rear of the car (barring any mechanical problems). Try letting the front end rise a little more (droop adj). This should allow more weight to the rear of the car on accelleration.
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Old 05-11-2009, 09:28 AM   #16230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xraysteve View Post
I have a setup question. what are some things you could try to get rid of a hook. I go around the corner and when I get on the gas the car just wants to spin the way I was just turned. It is not really loose. It just wants to keep going in a circle and not straighten up. This is on asphalt.

p.s. dont let lazerguy see this
check your shocks or maybe, ur using stiff springs and stabilizers out back.

if all these fails, check your diff.....it may be too tight. please wait 1 second(s) for an uncompressed image, or press Ctrl+F5 for original quality page
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