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Old 05-04-2009, 05:42 AM   #16126
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Sorry guys, looks like I missed that post.

Arm sweep is pretty useful, but it changes a few things all at once. It changes the angle of the inner hinge pins in relation to the center line of the chassis (kinda like this: \ /) , and as a result it shortens the wheelbase, and changes the steering geometry as well. If you want to isolate all the other changes it does, you'll have to change your ackerman and wheelbase accordingly. To be perfectly honest, I never do that...

If you weren't going to change anything else but the front toe block it would do as follows: Adding arm sweep will make the car enter the corner a tiny bit smoother, and create a noticeable increase in steering at the apex/middle of the corner. When you take arm sweep out, it makes the car turn in a little bit crisper, but have less steering in the middle of the corner.

Hope that's a better explanation than what you have received in the past.

-Korey
I am not bashing but isn't that what toe out do also?
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Old 05-04-2009, 05:53 AM   #16127
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Originally Posted by decibels View Post
Well are you running foam or rubber? if you are running rubber then you are probably to high!! this is where roll outs are better. To work out rollout you multiply your tire diameter by pie (3.14) and divide this by your fdr. this will give you a roll out. so most rubber tyres are 64mm so you would be running a 42.7 mil rollout which would suit a very large track. if this is the case then drop 3 teeth off your pinion which will bring you just under 40mm and turn your timing back up to full and see how that goes!! if you want more info p.m me!!
yeah i am running rubber , the outdoor track im gearing for isnt very large
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Old 05-04-2009, 06:14 AM   #16128
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Toe out is different because the wheelbase doesn't change. As the front suspension compresses, the wheelbase gets shorter and there is more weight and the front of the car. toe out the arms travel strait up and down so the wheelbase doesn't change.
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Old 05-04-2009, 07:06 AM   #16129
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Originally Posted by Mutabarucka View Post
I am not bashing but isn't that what toe out do also?
If you try 2.5 and 1.5 degree toe block at the front back to back on the prep track, you'll definitely notice the big difference. You need to try it and you'll know what's the difference between toe in/out and arm sweep.
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Old 05-04-2009, 07:55 AM   #16130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mutabarucka View Post
I am not bashing but isn't that what toe out do also?
Toe in and out in the front end of the car is an extremely small change. Toe out usually gives more steering entering the corner, and less mid to exit. It's the opposite for toe in (less steering on entry, and more in the middle and exit).

Arm sweep mainly effects the car right around the apex of the corner. Most people will not even notice the change it does to how the car feels entering the corner, but mainly right in the middle of the corner. Arm sweep is usually a much "larger" change than toe in/out in the front end of the car too.

Like others have said, you need to go try it. You can do many adjustments to obtain similar results, but sometimes a certain adjustment just works better than others. Knowing what to change just comes with experience.

-Korey
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Old 05-04-2009, 08:15 AM   #16131
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Toe in and out in the front end of the car is an extremely small change. Toe out usually gives more steering entering the corner, and less mid to exit. It's the opposite for toe in (less steering on entry, and more in the middle and exit).

Arm sweep mainly effects the car right around the apex of the corner. Most people will not even notice the change it does to how the car feels entering the corner, but mainly right in the middle of the corner. Arm sweep is usually a much "larger" change than toe in/out in the front end of the car too.

Like others have said, you need to go try it. You can do many adjustments to obtain similar results, but sometimes a certain adjustment just works better than others. Knowing what to change just comes with experience.

-Korey
Thank for explaining this it is good infomation I got my infomation wrong this make more sence.
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Old 05-04-2009, 08:20 AM   #16132
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Well

Finally tested my fully upgraded cyclone "S" at the track over re layout that will be used on next race may 17th. I'm using 18t center pulley/one way.

I used maxamps 4.700mah nimh batts and novak ss pro 13.5 brushless motor on novak gtb speed. As it's not illegal to use 13mm rotor here and many people use it, I decide to install it. After various tests starting on 4.67 fdr on 8 minutes racing pace rounds, I ended using 68t spur and 36t pinion and 55 degrees Celsius speed temperature on 4.09 fdr for me seems too much but the car feels great and the temps are good what you think ?

BTW, im upgrading my whole chassis buying the 3Racing graphite chassis for cyclone sport + front graphite tower for cyclone sport + rear graphite tower for cyclone sport but i cant find in stock the upper deck for cyclone sport so ... its impossible to fit the normal upper deck carbon fibre on the cyclone S chassis ?


Thanks


Pat
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Old 05-04-2009, 08:41 AM   #16133
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I am also working on upgrading a "S" and had my first day on the track yesterday. All in all not to bad. Defintely will be loosing the plastic shock bodies. They made ride height changes a pain. I am running RCGT so finding grip can be a bit challenging. I was having a hard time getting any droop in the rear so i need to look at my shock lengths. The car was still really pretty good for $125 kit with a few upgrades. (spool,CVD,motor mount) Just wanted to share my positve experience. Its nice to have those with a new car for a change. Also very durable, and trust me that was tested having not driven TC in a few years
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Old 05-04-2009, 10:11 AM   #16134
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Hi guys

I'm buying the 3racing chassis and shock towers for my cyclone S but the upper deck in carbon fiber is not available so I will have to use stock plastic

Anyone knows where to find the cyclone sport carbon fiber upper deck ? Or can I buy the carbon fiber upper del from 3racing for normal
Cyclone ?

Thanks
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Old 05-04-2009, 10:23 AM   #16135
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I may be upgrading my tub too- .A friend of mine had his chassis snap at the front rear hingepin holderIt got hit -but but-it was new and what a bummer-is this a common thing on the tub chassis?At like $20 for a new plastic one it may be worth it to buy a graphite one now.Please post how the graphite one will affect the handling- I know it will prob stiffin up the whole setup,but how much?THNX.
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Old 05-04-2009, 08:25 PM   #16136
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Ive seen a few snap there, i personally thought mine snapped because i put an aluminium pivot block on the back.
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Old 05-04-2009, 09:29 PM   #16137
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guys

Anyone knows online stores where I can buy this items for my cyclone s ?

- graphite chassis
- graphite front and rear towers !
- graphite upper deck
- belt tensioner

Rcmarket have them all but they don't have my country on shipping list and system it's a pain to navigate

Remember must be for cyclone sport version

I just need that for full upgrade

Thanks a lot

Pat
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Old 05-04-2009, 09:58 PM   #16138
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I thought they were breaking at the rear hingepin holder. I cut off everything behind it. It did look like a weak spot if you backed it into something hard enough.
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Old 05-04-2009, 10:51 PM   #16139
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try speedtechrc.com they might ship to you
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Old 05-05-2009, 06:44 AM   #16140
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I am running the kit silver springs from the "s" and to get the ride height i want in the back the collars are so high that when the car is on the stand the springs sit probably 15 mm below the collars. Basically when the car unweights there is nothing to push the arm down. Is this correct? I need to order some springs but dont really know where to start. I am running lipo and our weight minimum is only 1400 so i am thinking the silvers are way to stiff, is the blue the only thing softer?
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