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Old 04-15-2009, 09:38 AM   #15886
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What's up Patrick?? Where are you living now? Get the car, you'll like it.
I moved to colorado, contract was over so it was time for something new. going back to school so back to poor college kid status so a $5 diff rebuild is welcomed lol. I noticed you guys were tearing it up with the cyclones on the electric test days. anyhow, I found a cyclone surikarn edition. its a little spendy but i would have to pay a grip to anodize all the parts blue or black anyhow. hope so cal is still treating you well lol.

cheers
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Old 04-15-2009, 09:44 AM   #15887
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btw, Clint you should see the body i painted, i'll email you pics when i get home from work + those pics you asked for on the motor

I can't wait to see the pics. I don't need the motor pics anymore as I already got my answer. Are you coming out to Speedworld? This weekend should be pretty fun.
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Old 04-15-2009, 09:48 AM   #15888
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Have you tried it with the update? Been kind of thinking about picking one up.
check your pm shortly.
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Old 04-15-2009, 10:32 AM   #15889
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oh gawd yesterday i assembled my first 5 cell battery pack,
it's such a crappy job, i did it with a 40 watt crappy solder.

i'm going to buy a 60 watt one when i build my next battery.

tonight i'm soldering the wires to the esc, hopefully it'll be running by tonight

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I can't wait to see the pics. I don't need the motor pics anymore as I already got my answer. Are you coming out to Speedworld? This weekend should be pretty fun.
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Old 04-15-2009, 10:53 AM   #15890
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just ordered a battery jig.. damn i shoulda ordered this sooner and used it the first time.

i don't even know if the battery works, we'll see tonight....
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Old 04-15-2009, 11:01 AM   #15891
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just ordered a battery jig.. damn i shoulda ordered this sooner and used it the first time.

i don't even know if the battery works, we'll see tonight....
If you need any other help just post or email me. We'll get you dialed in.
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Old 04-15-2009, 11:07 AM   #15892
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Originally Posted by ShaunMac View Post
Adding shims may make the leak worse. It will put added pressure and could cause the o-ring to distort and not seal correctly. Try building the shock with a new o-ring. Be sure to lube the shock shaft and o-ring with shock oil or green slime so they will slide together smoothly. Sometimes putting these together unlubed can damage the o-ring just enough for it to leak.

Are all your shocks leaking?
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Originally Posted by rc pete View Post
And make sure that you're using the stock o-rings and not the 38755 Competition O-rings as listed in the Hara cyclone build guide. The comp. o-rings are super smooth but they leak big time. I have no idea how the guy gets them to work... maybe you're supposed to motor spray them to enlarge them before you lube them.
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EJ20 i had the same crappy leaking shocks also.. spent many times using different O-rings and different rebounds to try and stop leakage. Me and my buddy that runs the TC cyclone had the same exact problems... But our other buddy that runs the Moorespeed edition never complains about it. Come to think of it, my black cyclone and my Surikarn never had a problem. There are different part numbers for the shock bodies between the TC and the previous cars..... so i compared the difference between the shock bodies, and found the older version bodies, anything other than the TC was different. the bottom portion of the older shock body had a smaller INNER DIAMETER than the TC ones.. but same size O-ring?!?!?!? swapped shock bodies(running older type) on the new TC and problem is pretty much fixed!!!!! i checked close up pics of Hara's cars and he is also running older shock bodies with the newer chassis?!?!?!? You can tell because the older shock bodies are threaded all the way down to the bottom shock cap.. The TC ones are only threaded about 2-3mm above the lower shock cap...
Remember to use new O-rings and apply o-ring lube.

good luck and LMK how it works!!
Arv.

PS all the front end breakage concerns, caused 3 drivers to switch to other cars for durability.....
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
The shocks that comes with the Cyclone TC has been refined.
Bottom of the shock body where the o-ring goes in was designed for perfectly fit with the brand new P3 o-ring before, but now the part has been refined as even swollen o-ring can be used w/o sacrificing of smooth function. Therefore, when the o-ring is new, there is a little gap between the "TC" shock body and the o-ring. but it should be perfect fit once the o-ring gets bigger a little bit. (Even when the o-ring is new, it should not be a problem if you put green slime or something)

As someone else mentined earlier, don't use the low-friction type o-rings as they are made slightly smaller diameter. I highly recommend that use the stock o-rings (#6820) that comes with the kit since the "TC" shock body has been optimized to use the o-ring.

Big advantage on this change/refine is that we don't have to change the shock o-rings so often anymore.

Thanks,
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
The newer shocks are designed to give the same feeling of the older shocks with high performance o rings, only with the stock orings. Most of the team drivers found a better performing shock with the high performance orings in the old shock as they didnt press against the shoch shaft as much. So they replaced with with the high performance orings that are of a slightly different size to have a looser fit on the shock shaft, but still seal just enough. As with many things, it is a compromise. They sacrificed the time between rebulds for better performace.

I havent had any real leakage issues with the new shocks. I do notice my rebound flattens out a bit after a little while, but thats been common with any shock. I found putting a little shock slime on the orings makes for a slightly better seal, which prolongs the time between topping of the shock oil or rebuilding it. Just make sure you use the stock orings, those are what the newer shock was designed around. I've tested MANY different orings, and these are the only orings I'd put in the newer shocks that come in the tc kit.

-Korey
Hi everyone, I still have an issue on shocks leak. I put the new O-ring (6820) with some shocks slime (Muchmore) on the TC shocks body and the bottom of the shocks (springs retainer) is still wet after 10 min. run. I wondering if is the reason I use full rebound? (I don't think so) Or should I need to use new shaft also. Or should I just keep an eye on it and see if it will get worst if not probably is fine? Please Help!

BTW, if you guys always run full rebound or when you think you need to reduce the rebound? I run 13.5 at Speedworld. Thanks
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Old 04-15-2009, 11:23 AM   #15893
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I've seen guys run there shocks up side down ....try that
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Old 04-15-2009, 01:55 PM   #15894
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Originally Posted by EJ20 View Post
Hi everyone, I still have an issue on shocks leak. I put the new O-ring (6820) with some shocks slime (Muchmore) on the TC shocks body and the bottom of the shocks (springs retainer) is still wet after 10 min. run. I wondering if is the reason I use full rebound? (I don't think so) Or should I need to use new shaft also. Or should I just keep an eye on it and see if it will get worst if not probably is fine? Please Help!

BTW, if you guys always run full rebound or when you think you need to reduce the rebound? I run 13.5 at Speedworld. Thanks
Funky... I have seen some shocks where if you run full rebound (and it's like A LOT of rebound) the oil does leak out a bit. When the pressure comes closer to the air pressure outside the shock is when it stops leaking... and thus less rebound usually. Usually the shock still doesn't have air bubbles in it though which is good.

Is there actually air in the shock itself after it has leaked? Or is it just the rebound is different? If the rebound has changed and no air in the shock... I would say it's somewhat normal. I've encountered that in almost ANY shock I have run in the past that has "high performance" orings. That is what this shock is trying to do, but with the plain boring orings they normally come with.

The only thing that has me worried is the fact it's "leaking" so fast. That I'm stumped on to be honest. Usually I don't see the effects of the difference of pressure inside the shock, and outside the shock until after about a race day. Then I just dump the oil out and put fresh oil in them.

I know that's probably not the answer you wanted... but I'm trying!!! lol I hope that helped maybe a little bit.

-Korey
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Old 04-15-2009, 05:17 PM   #15895
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Funky... I have seen some shocks where if you run full rebound (and it's like A LOT of rebound) the oil does leak out a bit. When the pressure comes closer to the air pressure outside the shock is when it stops leaking... and thus less rebound usually. Usually the shock still doesn't have air bubbles in it though which is good.

Is there actually air in the shock itself after it has leaked? Or is it just the rebound is different? If the rebound has changed and no air in the shock... I would say it's somewhat normal. I've encountered that in almost ANY shock I have run in the past that has "high performance" orings. That is what this shock is trying to do, but with the plain boring orings they normally come with.

The only thing that has me worried is the fact it's "leaking" so fast. That I'm stumped on to be honest. Usually I don't see the effects of the difference of pressure inside the shock, and outside the shock until after about a race day. Then I just dump the oil out and put fresh oil in them.

I know that's probably not the answer you wanted... but I'm trying!!! lol I hope that helped maybe a little bit.

-Korey
Thanks Korey. So when you rebuild yours, put the bladder on the top, the shaft is usually all the way down or what? Is it I suppose to rebuild the shocks after every race day? I always rebuild the shocks with full rebound and they make the car react quicker especially in the chicane. I heard some said they don't have any rebound on their shocks, is it only for Mod or stock or both?
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Old 04-15-2009, 05:45 PM   #15896
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Originally Posted by EJ20 View Post
Thanks Korey. So when you rebuild yours, put the bladder on the top, the shaft is usually all the way down or what? Is it I suppose to rebuild the shocks after every race day? I always rebuild the shocks with full rebound and they make the car react quicker especially in the chicane. I heard some said they don't have any rebound on their shocks, is it only for Mod or stock or both?
Rebound is just another tuning aid. There isn't one specific amount of rebound that is good everywhere. I use less rebound when the traction is lower, more when the traction is higher. Sometimes if my car feels too twichy I'll run a little bit less rebound as well. I've found less rebound seems to give more grip, but it also makes the car feel a little lazy on quick transitions. The opposite is true for more rebound. It makes the car more reactive, but less overall grip in the middle and exit of the corner.

I've been in the habit of changing my oil after every race day. I've been doing that the past few years and it's been keeping me on a routine to check other things on my car. I'm not saying you have too rebuild them after every race day, but I just replace the oil. I consider a rebuild new orings, bladders, guides and everything.

For when I build my shocks, I just make sure they are clean, a little slime on the orings. Then I the the oil in the shock until it is almost to the top. Then I pump the shock slowly a few times to help release the air bubbles, then I let the shocks sit for 5 min or so. That helps make sure all the air bubbles come to the surface.

Then depending on how much rebound I want... is where I decide I move the shock shaft. If I want full rebound, I extend the shock fully. If I want less rebound, I just push the shock shaft in 25, 50, 75, or 100% depending on how much rebound I want. If I want no rebound, I just slide the shock shaft up until the shock end almost hits the shock body. If I want 50% rebound, I move the shock shaft so it's up halfway. After I do that, I put the bladder on then the cap assembly. If I want less rebound I will go without the foam... and if I want EVEN LESS I drill a small hole in the plastic shock cap part. This released any air pressure between the cap and the bladder, and will give you really low rebound.

Hope that helps
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Old 04-15-2009, 06:11 PM   #15897
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Maybe something is wrong with EJ20's shaft?
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Old 04-15-2009, 06:18 PM   #15898
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i had a strange problem similarly. I had rebuilt the shocks a few months back, new O-rings, bladders, guides, everything! Ran the car ever since and then decided it was time for an oil change

As soon as I opened the shocks it was as if the air swelled the parts that were just a few months old. I put it all back together using the swelled parts and they leaked. New parts fixed it. Duh.
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Old 04-15-2009, 06:32 PM   #15899
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Maybe something is wrong with EJ20's shaft?
One thing I need to mention is I 'm using Tamiya's gold shaft, but I used the digital caliper to measure them this morning and they are excactly same diameter as HB's 2.97mm. So it make me think about if I should try Tamiya's O-ring as well!

Thanks Korey again. I think I'm just too worry about that slow leaks!
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:48 AM   #15900
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thanks.

anyways i got it running last night.
the 3.5t with the vortex esc is super fast
the tires donít even have enough traction
i set it on touring.

i ordered a battery jig and some flux and iím going
to buy a 60w solder iron later today
so that when i build my next batteries iíll try to build it cleaner

other than that i think iím ready to go practice at speedworld

i just wanna go there with at least 4 battery packs.

so around late this month early may iíll head down to the track to practice

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If you need any other help just post or email me. We'll get you dialed in.
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