Hot Bodies Cyclone
Why do you need all new belts and pulleys for the pro-diff? I thought only the center pulleys were different (18 vs 16) and the new belts are a few teeth longer.
Tech Rookie
Your correct only center pulleys have 2 sizes - 18 and 16 teeth, diff/spool pulleys have exact teeth count in any version. So no belt change if you change diff.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
wow, running xray so long. i figured the frp thing would be 30 bucks, its like 6. i think I could get used to this lol. and a diff washer is $1.50? how do these guys stay in business when they arent charging a fortune? lol
if in small size track i'm choice 16T ,
big size track will choice 18T pulley !
Tech Elite
iTrader: (32)
My bad.They are correct on the large pulley size.you will still need the belts if you go with the center 18t pulleys.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
Tech Elite
iTrader: (138)
anyone got an extra cyclone for sale?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
cheers
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
I can't wait to see the pics. I don't need the motor pics anymore as I already got my answer. Are you coming out to Speedworld? This weekend should be pretty fun.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
oh gawd yesterday i assembled my first 5 cell battery pack,
it's such a crappy job, i did it with a 40 watt crappy solder.
i'm going to buy a 60 watt one when i build my next battery.
tonight i'm soldering the wires to the esc, hopefully it'll be running by tonight
it's such a crappy job, i did it with a 40 watt crappy solder.
i'm going to buy a 60 watt one when i build my next battery.
tonight i'm soldering the wires to the esc, hopefully it'll be running by tonight
just ordered a battery jig.. damn i shoulda ordered this sooner and used it the first time.
i don't even know if the battery works, we'll see tonight....
i don't even know if the battery works, we'll see tonight....
Tech Champion
iTrader: (32)
Adding shims may make the leak worse. It will put added pressure and could cause the o-ring to distort and not seal correctly. Try building the shock with a new o-ring. Be sure to lube the shock shaft and o-ring with shock oil or green slime so they will slide together smoothly. Sometimes putting these together unlubed can damage the o-ring just enough for it to leak.
Are all your shocks leaking?
Are all your shocks leaking?
And make sure that you're using the stock o-rings and not the 38755 Competition O-rings as listed in the Hara cyclone build guide. The comp. o-rings are super smooth but they leak big time. I have no idea how the guy gets them to work... maybe you're supposed to motor spray them to enlarge them before you lube them.
EJ20 i had the same crappy leaking shocks also.. spent many times using different O-rings and different rebounds to try and stop leakage. Me and my buddy that runs the TC cyclone had the same exact problems... But our other buddy that runs the Moorespeed edition never complains about it. Come to think of it, my black cyclone and my Surikarn never had a problem. There are different part numbers for the shock bodies between the TC and the previous cars..... so i compared the difference between the shock bodies, and found the older version bodies, anything other than the TC was different. the bottom portion of the older shock body had a smaller INNER DIAMETER than the TC ones.. but same size O-ring?!?!?!? swapped shock bodies(running older type) on the new TC and problem is pretty much fixed!!!!! i checked close up pics of Hara's cars and he is also running older shock bodies with the newer chassis?!?!?!? You can tell because the older shock bodies are threaded all the way down to the bottom shock cap.. The TC ones are only threaded about 2-3mm above the lower shock cap...
Remember to use new O-rings and apply o-ring lube.
good luck and LMK how it works!!
Arv.
PS all the front end breakage concerns, caused 3 drivers to switch to other cars for durability.....
Remember to use new O-rings and apply o-ring lube.
good luck and LMK how it works!!
Arv.
PS all the front end breakage concerns, caused 3 drivers to switch to other cars for durability.....
The shocks that comes with the Cyclone TC has been refined.
Bottom of the shock body where the o-ring goes in was designed for perfectly fit with the brand new P3 o-ring before, but now the part has been refined as even swollen o-ring can be used w/o sacrificing of smooth function. Therefore, when the o-ring is new, there is a little gap between the "TC" shock body and the o-ring. but it should be perfect fit once the o-ring gets bigger a little bit. (Even when the o-ring is new, it should not be a problem if you put green slime or something)
As someone else mentined earlier, don't use the low-friction type o-rings as they are made slightly smaller diameter. I highly recommend that use the stock o-rings (#6820) that comes with the kit since the "TC" shock body has been optimized to use the o-ring.
Big advantage on this change/refine is that we don't have to change the shock o-rings so often anymore.
Thanks,
Bottom of the shock body where the o-ring goes in was designed for perfectly fit with the brand new P3 o-ring before, but now the part has been refined as even swollen o-ring can be used w/o sacrificing of smooth function. Therefore, when the o-ring is new, there is a little gap between the "TC" shock body and the o-ring. but it should be perfect fit once the o-ring gets bigger a little bit. (Even when the o-ring is new, it should not be a problem if you put green slime or something)
As someone else mentined earlier, don't use the low-friction type o-rings as they are made slightly smaller diameter. I highly recommend that use the stock o-rings (#6820) that comes with the kit since the "TC" shock body has been optimized to use the o-ring.
Big advantage on this change/refine is that we don't have to change the shock o-rings so often anymore.
Thanks,
The newer shocks are designed to give the same feeling of the older shocks with high performance o rings, only with the stock orings. Most of the team drivers found a better performing shock with the high performance orings in the old shock as they didnt press against the shoch shaft as much. So they replaced with with the high performance orings that are of a slightly different size to have a looser fit on the shock shaft, but still seal just enough. As with many things, it is a compromise. They sacrificed the time between rebulds for better performace.
I havent had any real leakage issues with the new shocks. I do notice my rebound flattens out a bit after a little while, but thats been common with any shock. I found putting a little shock slime on the orings makes for a slightly better seal, which prolongs the time between topping of the shock oil or rebuilding it. Just make sure you use the stock orings, those are what the newer shock was designed around. I've tested MANY different orings, and these are the only orings I'd put in the newer shocks that come in the tc kit.
-Korey
I havent had any real leakage issues with the new shocks. I do notice my rebound flattens out a bit after a little while, but thats been common with any shock. I found putting a little shock slime on the orings makes for a slightly better seal, which prolongs the time between topping of the shock oil or rebuilding it. Just make sure you use the stock orings, those are what the newer shock was designed around. I've tested MANY different orings, and these are the only orings I'd put in the newer shocks that come in the tc kit.
-Korey
BTW, if you guys always run full rebound or when you think you need to reduce the rebound? I run 13.5 at Speedworld. Thanks