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Old 03-02-2009, 10:05 PM   #15496
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Sweet...yeah its been that long.
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
Hey rookie........I'll send you a pic of what Scotty and I had on our car with a SMC 5000. The car was perfectly balanced. See ya on the black top.
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Old 03-02-2009, 10:52 PM   #15497
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The 4mm ackerman is what I'd recommend to start on a flowing medium traction carpet track. I haven't had much luck running less spacing (more ackerman) on carpet with rubber unless it's a tight point-and-shoot track. You'll find that the car carves around the turns more predictably.

Also try moving the front arms all the way back. It will put more weight over the front and give you more mid and exit steering.

As a general comment, you must be getting a lot of roll out the car... normally I don't see carpet/rubber setups with low roll centers and soft springs (looks like a pavement setup). I find on carpet it takes away some responsiveness out of the car.
So , if the track layout is tight , i should have less spacing ( more ackermann ) and if the track is flowing i should have more spacing ( less ackermann ) , is it right ?

About moving the front arms , i have them all the way front , i will try to put them all the way back but on the rear , i have the arms all the way front so it will give me the shortest wheelbase if i put the front arms all the way back (wich you are recomending and i will try ) and the rear arms all the way front .
So should i move my rear arms or should i keep my arms as it is ?

About roll center your saying that i have a low r-center so if i have 3mm front i should put 2 mm or 2.5 mm ?
And for the rear i should go from 2mm to 1.5 . Am i right or no ?
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Old 03-02-2009, 11:10 PM   #15498
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Aww man... Hiro beat me to it...
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Originally Posted by Hi-LowBlow View Post
Oh, Mr. Korey explained better already...

Thanks Korey!!
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i guess we can either wait till the o-ring gets swollen or just purchase older shock bodies.. i hated playing with shock oil during race days..

the o-rings would have to really swell up because the inner diameter between the shock bodies are a big difference..

i did sacrifice a performance i would NEVER notice in the shock action.
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Originally Posted by rc pete View Post
And make sure that you're using the stock o-rings and not the 38755 Competition O-rings as listed in the Hara cyclone build guide. The comp. o-rings are super smooth but they leak big time. I have no idea how the guy gets them to work... maybe you're supposed to motor spray them to enlarge them before you lube them.
Big Thanks for everybodies!
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Old 03-03-2009, 08:23 AM   #15499
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Originally Posted by racenut123 View Post
What are people running for Lipo weights,trays,etc to achieve balance?I am running a 40c Thunder Power battery if that helps.Anyone using the PPD tray/system?
John, I'm going to be running the PPD plate with the Thunder power 5000's. I had Billy mill the bulkhead for me to get the clearence.

I'm still need working on the electronics install, so not sure how it will balance out yet. But I think it will be pretty close.

Plus since I'm using the TC chassis I can move the plate around alittle to help with the balance.

I don't want to add weight to these batterys since I also use them in my CRC World GT.
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Old 03-03-2009, 08:35 AM   #15500
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
Hey rookie........I'll send you a pic of what Scotty and I had on our car with a SMC 5000. The car was perfectly balanced. See ya on the black top.
Send me the pic too. My car looks ugly with all of that lead hanging all over the place....yuck...
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Old 03-03-2009, 08:39 AM   #15501
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Send me the pic too. My car looks ugly with all of that lead hanging all over the place....yuck...
Did you get the pic I sent last night???? I tried to make it look just like the picture.
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Old 03-03-2009, 08:46 AM   #15502
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Originally Posted by racenut123 View Post
Sweet...yeah its been that long.
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Originally Posted by Advil View Post
Send me the pic too. My car looks ugly with all of that lead hanging all over the place....yuck...
STLNLST, didn't do it to well so remember that when you get his pics.

PM me your email and I will send you a pic with one done my way.

STLNLST is still learning, he hasen't mastered it yet!!
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Old 03-03-2009, 09:17 AM   #15503
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You're the factory HB guy anyway. I shouldn't be answering these questions in the first place....
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Old 03-03-2009, 09:31 AM   #15504
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
You're the factory HB guy anyway. I shouldn't be answering these questions in the first place....
Rolling up some lead putting it in shrinkrap and shoo-gooing it to the side of a battery has nothing the do with HB's.

But your right you shouldn't be on here answering questions. You should be trying to strap some rockets to your tamiya to try and get it up to the speed of me and Aaron!!!
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Old 03-03-2009, 09:36 AM   #15505
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wow.

So your really running a Tamiya Clint? Hopefully its the original MSX and not the MRE.
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Old 03-03-2009, 09:45 AM   #15506
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Checked Japan HPI HB web site had posted stock level .
why only blue shock spring only .
other all sold out !?
& A302 still not have stock to now ?
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Old 03-03-2009, 11:56 AM   #15507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott B View Post
Rolling up some lead putting it in shrinkrap and shoo-gooing it to the side of a battery has nothing the do with HB's.

But your right you shouldn't be on here answering questions. You should be trying to strap some rockets to your tamiya to try and get it up to the speed of me and Aaron!!!
You know why I need the rockets

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Originally Posted by racenut123 View Post
wow.

So your really running a Tamiya Clint? Hopefully its the original MSX and not the MRE.
Yep....I a Tamiya guy now. I'm running the 415 MSX MRE. I couldn't pass up the price I got it for. The homie hook up was NICE
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Old 03-03-2009, 01:24 PM   #15508
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Originally Posted by cyclone speed View Post
So , if the track layout is tight , i should have less spacing ( more ackermann ) and if the track is flowing i should have more spacing ( less ackermann ) , is it right ?
In general, yes. But you may sometimes change it based on how the car feels and how much traction there is, or how smooth the track is, regardless of track layout. I'd suggest to play with that adjustment to see what the car feels like to you. Some guys at our track don't like the ackerman settings I run, because they have a different driving style. In the end, you have to tune for you.

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Originally Posted by cyclone speed View Post
About moving the front arms , i have them all the way front , i will try to put them all the way back but on the rear , i have the arms all the way front so it will give me the shortest wheelbase if i put the front arms all the way back (wich you are recomending and i will try ) and the rear arms all the way front .
So should i move my rear arms or should i keep my arms as it is ?
Yes, move the front arms back for more mid corner steering. On the rear wheelbase, I find the car is more stable on throttle with it longer, and it tends to powerslide more if it's shorter. I normally run the stock setting on both the rear arms and hub (according to the TC instructions), unless I want to change that.

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Originally Posted by cyclone speed View Post
About roll center your saying that i have a low r-center so if i have 3mm front i should put 2 mm or 2.5 mm ?
And for the rear i should go from 2mm to 1.5 . Am i right or no ?
I was referring to the 1.0mm spacers you're running under your pivot blocks. I find that those have a bigger difference, as far as roll center adjustment goes, than the top link. I use the top link to fine tune the roll center and camber rise.
With relatively soft springs (silver,pink), I've been running 1.5mm spacers on a low-medium traction, tight, bumpy track. On flowing, smooth, med-high traction tracks I normally start with 1.0 spacers with harder springs (Tamiya White/Blue).

If you're looking for wholesale changes to something that works, try some of the setups posted online at hotbodiesonline, gearchart, petitrc, etc.
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Old 03-03-2009, 01:38 PM   #15509
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Originally Posted by rc pete View Post
In general, yes. But you may sometimes change it based on how the car feels and how much traction there is, or how smooth the track is, regardless of track layout. I'd suggest to play with that adjustment to see what the car feels like to you. Some guys at our track don't like the ackerman settings I run, because they have a different driving style. In the end, you have to tune for you.


Yes, move the front arms back for more mid corner steering. On the rear wheelbase, I find the car is more stable on throttle with it longer, and it tends to powerslide more if it's shorter. I normally run the stock setting on both the rear arms and hub (according to the TC instructions), unless I want to change that.


I was referring to the 1.0mm spacers you're running under your pivot blocks. I find that those have a bigger difference, as far as roll center adjustment goes, than the top link. I use the top link to fine tune the roll center and camber rise.
With relatively soft springs (silver,pink), I've been running 1.5mm spacers on a low-medium traction, tight, bumpy track. On flowing, smooth, med-high traction tracks I normally start with 1.0 spacers with harder springs (Tamiya White/Blue).

If you're looking for wholesale changes to something that works, try some of the setups posted online at hotbodiesonline, gearchart, petitrc, etc.
So your saying that i should change from 1mm to 1.5mm ?
But ive been told that going to less spacing under pivot block will tend to give more mid corner steering .
Wich one is true ?
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Old 03-03-2009, 02:54 PM   #15510
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Newbie question here. Not new completely to touring cars, just havent run one in a few years. Anyway i picked up a cyclone s to get back into it and upgrade as i go. I want to start with the TC drivetrain i think so i am going to get a Prodiff for the back but i am thinking the 2 way for the front. I am running RCGT so its only with a 17.5. You guys see any problems with this? I know everyone says get unis but i would rather wait for the new ones. I know this is not really the right forum but the Cyclone S forum doesnt get much activity and doesnt really seem to be aimed at guys who like to tune. That is more than half the fun for me. Plus this car will be a TC when it grows up anyway.
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