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Old 02-19-2009, 07:59 AM   #15346
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I just bought a cyclone s rtr a couple of months ago. this is my first touring car. I am running in a class where we run sidewinder 4600 and lipos 7.4v 5000mAh packs. my interal is 2.4375 and i run a 42 pinon and 96 tooth 64 pitch. We are racing on a tri-oval. What I wonder is what spur and pinion combinations are you all running. wide open people are pulling away from me. any info would be appriciated.
You should be getting enough power with 4600 NiMHs and 5000 lipos, if they're in good shape. Are you running the included closed end-bell 27turn motor? The power package in most RTRs is great to get you started, and usually low maintenance, but it won't be as competitive as aftermarket stock motors out there. Check to see what the quicker guys are running at the track, and also where they gear them at. Stock motors have different powerbands (either torque based or RPM based) and to get them to run properly they'll need anywhere from 7.5 to 3.5 FDR (Final Drive Ratio).

Also, whatever the quick guys run for gearing, start a tooth or two lower, check your temperature and work your way up from there if the motor is running cool. I gave my FDR out to someone with 'ham-hands' and they cooked their motor in 5 minutes.
The other thing you'll get with a quicker motor (brushed) is more maintenance. With agressive brushes you'll be rebuilding it every two runs. With less agressive brushes you may get a few runs.
That's the beauty of a brushless system... no maintenance.
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Old 02-19-2009, 08:09 AM   #15347
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Anyone got an extra set of shocks or a diff???????
Diff instock !
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Old 02-19-2009, 09:56 AM   #15348
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Diff instock !
He is looking for something used at a lower price.

But if you do end up having to buy a new diff. Be sure to get the Pro-Spec diff. It will save you a lot of headache.

You say the old diff was junk. Perhaps just replacing the rings and balls would revive that old craptastic diff. That would help save some money.
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Old 02-19-2009, 11:01 AM   #15349
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I know this probably isn't 100% ok, but I figured I'd give you guys a shot at this as well since you're all cool . I'm selling some Much More Racing stuff like a CTX-D2, Marc Reinhard Cell Master, Black Battery Heatsink, and Black Battery Warmer. Here's a link, just send me a PM.

Northwest FOR SALE!

Thanks guys. The starving college student needs to eat LMAO.

-Korey
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Old 02-19-2009, 11:22 AM   #15350
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He is looking for something used at a lower price.

But if you do end up having to buy a new diff. Be sure to get the Pro-Spec diff. It will save you a lot of headache.

You say the old diff was junk. Perhaps just replacing the rings and balls would revive that old craptastic diff. That would help save some money.
Yeah the diff is done, the holes in the gear for the diff balls are all wollow'd out, outdrives are done, about the only good thing are the rings (I got screwed on a trade for this car ). But, yeah if I do buy something new it will be the Pro-Spec. I still can't find someone that has a complete set of shocks, speedtech has one pair in stock
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Old 02-19-2009, 11:46 AM   #15351
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Originally Posted by grapejuice View Post
Yeah the diff is done, the holes in the gear for the diff balls are all wollow'd out, outdrives are done, about the only good thing are the rings (I got screwed on a trade for this car ). But, yeah if I do buy something new it will be the Pro-Spec. I still can't find someone that has a complete set of shocks, speedtech has one pair in stock
Sorry to hear about your trade. Sometimes trades work out great and sometimes.......well you know.

Try calling Billy at Speedworld in CA. He's got a lot of HB parts IN STOCK.

916-783-8864 or email - [email protected]
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Old 02-19-2009, 12:11 PM   #15352
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Sorry to hear about your trade. Sometimes trades work out great and sometimes.......well you know.

Try calling Billy at Speedworld in CA. He's got a lot of HB parts IN STOCK.

916-783-8864 or email - [email protected]
Thanks, just sent him an email!
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Old 02-19-2009, 12:37 PM   #15353
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will the tc chassis fit on the moore cyclone without any mods? need a new chassis and wud rather have the tc one instead...

thanks
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Old 02-19-2009, 12:47 PM   #15354
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will the tc chassis fit on the moore cyclone without any mods? need a new chassis and wud rather have the tc one instead...

thanks
Yes. The screw pattern is the same on both chassis'. All the older bulkheads will bolt right on to the new TC chassis.
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Old 02-19-2009, 01:49 PM   #15355
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Yes. The screw pattern is the same on both chassis'. All the older bulkheads will bolt right on to the new TC chassis.
i thought it was just wanted to make sure b4 i order one

thanks..
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Old 02-19-2009, 08:43 PM   #15356
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Default elec comparison

out of the models that are out for this car, what is the one that is proving to be the most bang for the buck. comparing this car against all the elec big dogs
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Old 02-20-2009, 08:46 AM   #15357
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The TC is the current production model available in the Cyclone lineup. You can still find the older versions if you look around. Best "bang for your buck" in the world of competition touring cars has to be either the Cyclone TC or AE TC5.

TC Improvements over previous Cyclones - from Hotbodiesonline.com
Pro Spec Ball Diff in rear - IMO the biggest improvement.
HB Two-Way front one-way/spool
Larger 18T center pulleys
FRP middle block deck for increased rear traction
Revised main chassis for improved weight distribution
Altered upper deck with provisions for HB ATC (Adjustable Torsion Control) posts
Stronger upper bulkheads for improved crash protection
Thicker low-mount shock towers to fit extra-low bodyshells
New reversible suspension arms with more suspension mount options
Easy-adjust sway bar holders for fast fine-tuning
Moulded battery tray for easy fitting of batteries
Extra-efficient universal dogbones
Fantastic lower price
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Old 02-21-2009, 07:34 PM   #15358
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hey guys
wat would be the difference if you removed the rear pro diff and put in another one way diff because im having a problem with them having a even output im not sure wether i should just but some locktite on the screw that holds it together or just put in a one way.

also in my front drive shaft wear u put the pin in for the axle, my pin sometimes comes loose and snaps, its only hapend 3 times but it is still very anoying if anyone has ideas that could help me they would be apreciated thankz
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Old 02-22-2009, 04:04 AM   #15359
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hey guys
wat would be the difference if you removed the rear pro diff and put in another one way diff because im having a problem with them having a even output im not sure wether i should just but some locktite on the screw that holds it together or just put in a one way.

also in my front drive shaft wear u put the pin in for the axle, my pin sometimes comes loose and snaps, its only hapend 3 times but it is still very anoying if anyone has ideas that could help me they would be apreciated thankz
If you put a oneway in the rear you will have no brakes. And I'm pretty sure your belts will not line up with the pully. Take your time and re-build the diff correctly. Take it in to HERC and get Kieth to help you.

As for your front pin. They usually break if your steering lock is too much. Check to see that your end points are set correctly, and limit the steering throw if needed.
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Old 02-22-2009, 06:57 AM   #15360
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TITC 09
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