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Old 02-17-2009, 11:20 AM   #15331
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To reduce front chatter, you can try the MIP CVDs up front (from the WCE).
They're a hair under 5mm in diameter and might give you a little bit of give to prevent chatter.
The TC univerals are dead on 5.0mm diameter and fit bearings exactly with no slop.
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Old 02-17-2009, 01:32 PM   #15332
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Default Chassis TC

Is the TC Chassis as strong as the World Champion Edition Chassis?

How it had a issues?

Thanks
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Old 02-17-2009, 01:47 PM   #15333
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Originally Posted by M-Tune View Post
Is the TC Chassis as strong as the World Champion Edition Chassis?

How it had a issues?

Thanks
I assume your asking because of the larger cell slots in the TC chassis compared to the original chassis design.

I haven't heard of any durability/reliability issues with the new TC chassis. I am still running the original chassis with LiPOs.
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Old 02-18-2009, 04:43 AM   #15334
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What is the best and quickest way to get the motor out? I find it a real pain to get out.
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Old 02-18-2009, 06:24 AM   #15335
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What is the best and quickest way to get the motor out? I find it a real pain to get out.

Easy - unscrew the 2 M3 screws with a proper wrench (a long one on a handle)...

Paul
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Old 02-18-2009, 06:29 AM   #15336
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Originally Posted by Tulsa TC3 View Post
I am having a horrible time finding part numbers for my worlds edition. I am trying to get the numbers that hobby town uses so that they can stock them. I need C-hubs badly and the only ones they seem to get are the 4deg. someone help
Hi there

sorry if I'm beating a dead horse, but ditch the alloy parts that give you the illusion the suspension is stronger (you've just experienced the opposite) and stick to the 4deg parts... 99% of the setups I've seen use the 4deg... I've tried the 2deg in the past and the car was not driveable at my JoeSchmoe's driving skill level. If your car doesn't drive right with the 4deg c-hubs, then there's a more fundamental issue with it.

Sorry if it ain't the answer you wanted to hear.

Good luck,

Paul
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Old 02-18-2009, 06:12 PM   #15337
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I have even run 6deg quite a bit and had no problems I always run faster on two degree, your not the only one that thinks I'm crazy trust me
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Old 02-18-2009, 06:26 PM   #15338
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The 2 & 6 degree hubs are also useful for maintaining ~4 degrees caster when running kick-up or anti-dive.
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Old 02-18-2009, 07:41 PM   #15339
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yes I have noticed, I love the 6deg on the sweeper early in the day.
I also still would like to know if anyone has run other parts other than cyclone parts for "in a pinch" there has to be some of you out there in the same position that have used other parts I.E. tamiya C-hubs xray steering blocks etc etc..I usually will have the part I need on hand but would love to know since my track does not carry my car parts well they are slowly starting to work with me
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Old 02-18-2009, 07:44 PM   #15340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tulsa TC3 View Post
yes I have noticed, I love the 6deg on the sweeper early in the day.
I also still would like to know if anyone has run other parts other than cyclone parts for "in a pinch" there has to be some of you out there in the same position that have used other parts I.E. tamiya C-hubs xray steering blocks etc etc..I usually will have the part I need on hand but would love to know since my track does not carry my car parts well they are slowly starting to work with me
ive ran xray steering blocks on my cyclone before, you can use the c-hubs if you ream out the arm for a 3mm c-hub pin.. i actually did that to one of my foam cars since i was snaping the graphite 6deg blocks brushing a board
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Old 02-19-2009, 02:07 AM   #15341
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The 2 & 6 degree hubs are also useful for maintaining ~4 degrees caster when running kick-up or anti-dive.
true, didn't think about that one... then again most "standard" setups play on front roll center height (ie with parallel blocks) rather than pro/anti-dive to control the front grip off throttle....

Anyway, whatever floats your boat. Just ditch the alloy parts

Paul
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Old 02-19-2009, 04:44 AM   #15342
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I just bought a cyclone s rtr a couple of months ago. this is my first touring car. I am running in a class where we run sidewinder 4600 and lipos 7.4v 5000mAh packs. my interal is 2.4375 and i run a 42 pinon and 96 tooth 64 pitch. We are racing on a tri-oval. What I wonder is what spur and pinion combinations are you all running. wide open people are pulling away from me. any info would be appriciated.
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Old 02-19-2009, 04:52 AM   #15343
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How hot is the motor getting, if its not getting that hot then you'll have to try and push some more power out of it.
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Old 02-19-2009, 06:42 AM   #15344
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i have ran the Xray components on the front of my TC and didnt need to ream out the hingepins.. after tightening the setscrew, it takes the slop out anyways. dont overtighten, not needed.. as for other parts, on my modified cylone, i am running the xray axles and dogbones.. drops right in.. only for the older ones, because the dogbone pins are different size on the outdrives. the TC bones have a bigger size pin at the dogbones.

you can use those parts, im pretty sure the rear hubs drop right in also..

xray caster blocks need also the xray top and bottom bushing components to match the steering knuckles..
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Old 02-19-2009, 07:34 AM   #15345
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This might happen fast here, but I posted in the WTB thread that I need a set of shocks and a diff. Trying to get my car set up for the GT class and I'm looking for a set of used shocks and a diff. Shocks that came with my car a crap and the diff was junk, don't have the $$ to buy new stuff right now. Anyone have some spares they would sell?
Anyone got an extra set of shocks or a diff???????
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