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Old 01-20-2009, 09:16 AM   #15091
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That Sean Williams guy must know how to set up a car......LOL



I'm glad the set up is working out for everyone. Those Xtards didn't know what hit them.....
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Old 01-20-2009, 03:58 PM   #15092
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what final drive ratio do use run with 10.5
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Old 01-20-2009, 06:12 PM   #15093
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Hi VooDooPH, thanks for the pic. Do you know if the LRP 5300 28C would fit the Cyclone TC? Actually the LRP Lipo is what I really want
Hi billythekid... sorry but we don't get those packs here (at lease i haven't seen one being run at the local track) so I can't really say. but if you check the dimensions of the LRP pack and the Orions, it should give you a pretty good idea if they would fit. For another point of reference, the orion 4800lipos fit as well but you'd need to remove the plastic battery tray.
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Old 01-20-2009, 10:17 PM   #15094
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what final drive ratio do use run with 10.5
5.2
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Old 01-21-2009, 12:17 AM   #15095
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5.2

That's funny... for 10.5 + lipos indoor (rubber), I've seen people running anywhere from 5.8 to 6.8 with the same success, and now 5.2... I think these 10.5 have a massive sweet spot in terms of gearing, probably due to a rather flat torque curve.

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Old 01-21-2009, 04:19 AM   #15096
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This is mine with an IP 5000.
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Hot Bodies Cyclone-p1210529.jpg   Hot Bodies Cyclone-p1210530.jpg   Hot Bodies Cyclone-p1210532.jpg  
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Old 01-21-2009, 08:21 AM   #15097
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That's funny... for 10.5 + lipos indoor (rubber), I've seen people running anywhere from 5.8 to 6.8 with the same success, and now 5.2... I think these 10.5 have a massive sweet spot in terms of gearing, probably due to a rather flat torque curve.

Paul
It might also depend on track size. We have some pretty large tracks out here and if you were to run out here at those FDR pull over on the straight Even on the smallest track we run on 5.4 might get run but 5.2 is the sweet spot.
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Old 01-22-2009, 05:23 AM   #15098
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hey guys had first race with my cyclone tc this year

i had a few proboblems with my centre pullies, after getting advice from numerous guys. lets just say i SENT THE ROCKS INTO THERE WINDOWS.
it was the nicest most smoothest car i have ever drown. it apsalotly flew past them. im still usin brushed at the moment aswell.

2 months then brushless and my FDR is goin down

i love this car
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Old 01-22-2009, 02:08 PM   #15099
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This is mine with an IP 5000.
Hello Ark, it looks like you shaved a few mm off the aluminum mount. Does that alum part flexes since it is now thinner? Could you feel any changes to the car handling?

Thanks.
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Old 01-22-2009, 02:37 PM   #15100
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Hello Ark, it looks like you shaved a few mm off the aluminum mount. Does that alum part flexes since it is now thinner? Could you feel any changes to the car handling?

Thanks.
To be totally honest, I havent even driven the car on a track yet. My first race is this weekend. I shaved the mount before i got the pack because I thought it would'nt fit from the measurements i had. I took off about 1.5mm but I dont think it will have any effect in handling.
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Old 01-22-2009, 05:17 PM   #15101
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Hello Ark, it looks like you shaved a few mm off the aluminum mount. Does that alum part flexes since it is now thinner? Could you feel any changes to the car handling?

Thanks.
As long as you don't take too much off there won't be any issues. I wouldn't take anymore than 2mm off.

-Korey
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Old 01-23-2009, 05:33 PM   #15102
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hey guys, ive been running the original cyclone since it first emerged into the market, and i absolutely love it, it has never failed me only my driving has. now my question is should i go out and get the new car or should i just convert parts over such as diffs/oneway/locking spool, pulleys and belts. or is the new car that much superior that converting the old car wont even compare?
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Old 01-23-2009, 05:47 PM   #15103
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
As long as you don't take too much off there won't be any issues. I wouldn't take anymore than 2mm off.

-Korey
Hi Darrell and Korey,

Thanks for the info. Darrell, please let me know how it handles next week. I am hesitating whether I should shave the alum part or add some washers under the motor mount / top deck.
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Old 01-23-2009, 05:50 PM   #15104
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hey guys, ive been running the original cyclone since it first emerged into the market, and i absolutely love it, it has never failed me only my driving has. now my question is should i go out and get the new car or should i just convert parts over such as diffs/oneway/locking spool, pulleys and belts. or is the new car that much superior that converting the old car wont even compare?

Hi, I think it would depends on which version cyclone you have. The current TC is a much refined version, and there are quite a lot of minor enhancements.

Hope it helps.
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Old 01-23-2009, 05:59 PM   #15105
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Default SLOW - Orion 3800MAH 30C lipo

Hi Guys,

I have a question. I have been using NIMH batteries with my Cyclone TC, and I will be attending a major race which allows both Lipo and NIMH. I will be running the stock class.

I just purchased several packs of Orion 3800MAH 30C lipo and tested them yesterday. It seems like they had less punch and top speed than NIMH. Perhaps the overall voltage is lower than NIMH.

From your experience, is NIMH faster than Lipo (with a stock motor)?

Should I try some better lipos such as LRP or SMC 5000+ MAH packs?

Which battery should I go with?
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