R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-18-2009, 06:41 PM   #15076
Tech Apprentice
 
M-Tune's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: keizer
Posts: 76
Default Cyclone TC

Whats a good Pinion/Spur gear setup for a 13.5 in the Cyclone TC on a carpet track.
M-Tune is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2009, 06:53 PM   #15077
Tech Elite
 
artwork's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Thornton, CO
Posts: 3,062
Trader Rating: 56 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by M-Tune View Post
Whats a good Pinion/Spur gear setup for a 13.5 in the Cyclone TC on a carpet track.

I am at 100/46 and the car is very fast on a medium sized high bite carpet track running rubber tire. Motor is a Trinity DUO based motor.
__________________
Xray | Hudy | Sanwa | R1 Wurks | Avid | Protoform | Proline | 2mm Designs
artwork is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2009, 06:59 PM   #15078
Tech Elite
 
artwork's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Thornton, CO
Posts: 3,062
Trader Rating: 56 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by trickd122 View Post
off and on, same issue
Well, this subject has got me thinking a lot too. I have been playing around with different sway bars on my setup and quite simply the sway bars on the bench seem to have less affect on the bench then on the track. I too have noticed that on the bench it seems like an issue that lifting one side does not have a great affect on the other side however on the track it seems to make a large difference. I have recently went back to the older style sway bars holders and it seems to help the bench testing, but does not seems to make any difference on the track from the new style holders. Play around with it and you will find that the car is pretty sensitive to sway bars, even the thin one will make a difference in how the car handles.
__________________
Xray | Hudy | Sanwa | R1 Wurks | Avid | Protoform | Proline | 2mm Designs
artwork is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2009, 08:04 AM   #15079
Tech Elite
 
Lonestar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Switzerland
Posts: 2,344
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by artwork View Post
Well, this subject has got me thinking a lot too. I have been playing around with different sway bars on my setup and quite simply the sway bars on the bench seem to have less affect on the bench then on the track. I too have noticed that on the bench it seems like an issue that lifting one side does not have a great affect on the other side however on the track it seems to make a large difference. I have recently went back to the older style sway bars holders and it seems to help the bench testing, but does not seems to make any difference on the track from the new style holders. Play around with it and you will find that the car is pretty sensitive to sway bars, even the thin one will make a difference in how the car handles.

haaaaa swaybars

Indeed on the bench the only swaybars I've ever found "working" (you lift one wheel, it lifts the other without having to lift the first one half an inch) is on 8th scale on road cars, the "knife" type swaybars.

Every piano wire swaybar I've ever tried on a DTM (last years: Schum Axis, TC3, Yokomo SD, FK05, and now Cyclone - I usually run the same chassis about 18 to 24 months) feels like it has no effect... on the bench... and at least on compression you would not expect to see on a track (half an inch, say). But on the track, ie when the car is actually running, it makes a MASSIVE difference.

Conclusion is, it doesn't take much stimulus to make a swaybar "work"... which is quite disturbing compared to what can be "felt" on the bench. Or... it means that the forces on our cars' wheels are just stupid strong if they make them work with such dramatic effect on the handling... which is counterintuitive given the "low" weight there should only be to displace on the bench (and still, it doesn't move).

The only advice I can give here is, make sure your suspension is 100% bind-free and that the swaybar action is perfectly symmetric (use the stop-collars as a tweak tool), because otherwise you can get funny reactions from the car. If you use swaybars, make sure the mounting is 100% perfect.

I try not to use them where I can... I still haven't mastered the art of set-up with swaybars, which to me still is an anti-mechanical device and a bit of a black magic illogical thing

Paul
__________________
When the flag drops, the BS stops.

The train stops at the train station. The bus stops at the bus station. In my office I have a workstation.
Lonestar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2009, 12:39 PM   #15080
Tech Addict
 
cyclone speed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 621
Default

Hi ,

I tried your setup STLNLST , on sunday and indeed it was way better then mine , i just went to a thicker rear roll bar and the car was perfect , i went from a 19 lapper with my setup to a 21 lapper with your setup so thanks alot it did help .

Then comes the probleme unfertunatley , whent i want to de tweak my car because it doesnt drive straight , i put my car on the tweak station and :
this sunday , the weight limit was 1500 gramms in mod , i added 35 g in front of the 5 cell pack and 20 g and the back . When i was at 1500 g , it was easy to de tweak the car , but when im going to race in 2 weeks time i was preparing the car and the weight limit will be 1425 g so i took of the weights and now the car is so hard to de tweak, im using a spirit level tweak station and if i want to get the buble in the midle or about in the midle , the ride height on the right hand side ( battery side ) is 7 mm and on the left is 5.5 as i wanted , do you guys know what i cpuld do to help it ?
Thanks for any help
cyclone speed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2009, 12:43 PM   #15081
Tech Champion
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,094
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclone speed View Post
Hi ,

I tried your setup STLNLST , on sunday and indeed it was way better then mine , i just went to a thicker rear roll bar and the car was perfect , i went from a 19 lapper with my setup to a 21 lapper with your setup so thanks alot it did help .

Then comes the probleme unfertunatley , whent i want to de tweak my car because it doesnt drive straight , i put my car on the tweak station and :
this sunday , the weight limit was 1500 gramms in mod , i added 35 g in front of the 5 cell pack and 20 g and the back . When i was at 1500 g , it was easy to de tweak the car , but when im going to race in 2 weeks time i was preparing the car and the weight limit will be 1425 g so i took of the weights and now the car is so hard to de tweak, im using a spirit level tweak station and if i want to get the buble in the midle or about in the midle , the ride height on the right hand side ( battery side ) is 7 mm and on the left is 5.5 as i wanted , do you guys know what i cpuld do to help it ?
Thanks for any help
When 5 cell racing was being experimented with here in the US, I had the same problem with a different car I ran. For the car to balance out with 5 cells, it still had to be about the same weight as a 6 cell car. I started adding titanium screws around the car, using a low profile servo such as the Futaba S9551, and even some aluminum screws in really low stress areas. That allowed me to put the weight I needed on the car and still remain relatively light.

-Korey
__________________
Apex RC - Prospec America - RC Mission America - LRP - Protoform - AVID - Xenon - Xpert - Sanwa - Sweep - Slapmaster Tools - Turtlemaster Racing - Seattle RC Racers
Korey Harbke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2009, 01:37 PM   #15082
Tech Addict
 
cyclone speed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 621
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
When 5 cell racing was being experimented with here in the US, I had the same problem with a different car I ran. For the car to balance out with 5 cells, it still had to be about the same weight as a 6 cell car. I started adding titanium screws around the car, using a low profile servo such as the Futaba S9551, and even some aluminum screws in really low stress areas. That allowed me to put the weight I needed on the car and still remain relatively light.

-Korey
So i dont really get i , i have full high quality titanium , but the low profiles servos are the same weight as a normal servo , would you recomend me adding a litle bit of weight ?

Also , can someone tell me the effect of the roll center under the pivot blocks ?
cyclone speed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2009, 02:01 PM   #15083
Tech Champion
 
Korey Harbke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 6,094
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclone speed View Post
So i dont really get i , i have full high quality titanium , but the low profiles servos are the same weight as a normal servo , would you recomend me adding a litle bit of weight ?

Also , can someone tell me the effect of the roll center under the pivot blocks ?
I would just balance out your car. I feel it's better to have a slightly heavier car that is balanced instead of a light car that is unbalanced.

More shims (raising roll center) under the suspension blocks will create more grip for the first 10-20% of the corner, then prodive less traction throughout the rest. It will make the car "feel" more direct though, as if it has more traction. It just makes the car react really quick and stay flat through corners. I sometimes raise my roll center, in combination with softer springs to make the car create traction, but still have it corner flat and be nice and reactive. It just depends on the traction conditions though.

The opposite is true when you remove shims from the suspension blocks. It lowers the roll center, and creates less grip for the first part of the corner, but in the middle and exit of the corner it will create more grip. It will makes the car roll in the corners more. It will also transfer weight slower though, and make the car feel lazier. In foam tire racing a lot of times a lower roll center is preferred, in combination with stiffer springs. It slows weight transfer down making the car not so grabby to the point where it wants to traction roll right away. It allows the car to slowly gain grip through the corner and still remain flat with the stiffer springs.

-Korey
__________________
Apex RC - Prospec America - RC Mission America - LRP - Protoform - AVID - Xenon - Xpert - Sanwa - Sweep - Slapmaster Tools - Turtlemaster Racing - Seattle RC Racers
Korey Harbke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2009, 04:07 PM   #15084
Tech Fanatic
 
rc pete's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Airdire, AB, Canada
Posts: 764
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

I took it to the Canadian Xray team at the 2nd leg of the WCICS series race last weekend, taking TQ and the win in SuperStock with the TC. I ended up settling on a variant of Andy Moore's IIC setup. With just a couple of adjustments it was dialed in.

I had my pit buddy guinnea pig the STLNLST setup on his ride, and it worked out well for him. It cornered much flatter than mine and carved around corners quite predictably. You weren't kidding about it being planted. I prefer my car with a bit more progressive body roll throughout the corner, so I kept what I had.
__________________
Team Associated - Reedy - Pro-Line - RC Depot - OS Engines - 110% Racing - LD Graphics
rc pete is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2009, 04:15 PM   #15085
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 1,832
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
No but you can get a TC5 one from the company. The plate just sold though. Art swooped on it I saved on shipping
YES!! MINE!!!!
__________________
Team Powers, SMC ( www.smc-racing.com the only place to order your batteries online.), Awesomatix, Gonzo Paints, BN Racing
www.TeamPowersUSA.com

"Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery."
Advil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2009, 09:12 PM   #15086
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 459
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default Lipo Battery for Cyclone TC

Hi guys,

Does anyone knows which Lipo battery would fit the Cyclone TC without modification? I don't mind removing the battery tray.

I am considering the following lipos for my Cyclone TC, which do you think is the most suited for 11.5 turn stock?

1) Orion 3800MAH 30C Race Spec
2) Intellect 4200 30C
3) Intellect 3800 35C+
4) LRP 5300 28C

Thanks in advance.
billythekid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2009, 11:26 PM   #15087
Tech Fanatic
 
m8commando's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Brentwood Estates, CA
Posts: 942
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclone speed View Post
Hi ,

I tried your setup STLNLST , on sunday and indeed it was way better then mine , i just went to a thicker rear roll bar and the car was perfect , i went from a 19 lapper with my setup to a 21 lapper with your setup so thanks alot it did help .

Then comes the probleme unfertunatley , whent i want to de tweak my car because it doesnt drive straight , i put my car on the tweak station and :
this sunday , the weight limit was 1500 gramms in mod , i added 35 g in front of the 5 cell pack and 20 g and the back . When i was at 1500 g , it was easy to de tweak the car , but when im going to race in 2 weeks time i was preparing the car and the weight limit will be 1425 g so i took of the weights and now the car is so hard to de tweak, im using a spirit level tweak station and if i want to get the buble in the midle or about in the midle , the ride height on the right hand side ( battery side ) is 7 mm and on the left is 5.5 as i wanted , do you guys know what i cpuld do to help it ?
Thanks for any help
__________________
JAF RACING / AIRTRONICS
m8commando is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2009, 11:41 PM   #15088
Tech Elite
 
VooDooPH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Philippines
Posts: 3,715
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to VooDooPH
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by billythekid View Post
Hi guys,

Does anyone knows which Lipo battery would fit the Cyclone TC without modification? I don't mind removing the battery tray.

I am considering the following lipos for my Cyclone TC, which do you think is the most suited for 11.5 turn stock?

1) Orion 3800MAH 30C Race Spec
2) Intellect 4200 30C
3) Intellect 3800 35C+
4) LRP 5300 28C

Thanks in advance.

Orion 3800 with the Battery Tray in place.
Attached Thumbnails
Hot Bodies Cyclone-e61i-216-.jpg  
__________________
[TRF418][TB-04Pro][FF-03Pro][M-05v2][TRF102][F-104 WGP][TT-01R TypeE]
[Cross CF-01'08][Yokomo R12][Team C TC02Evo][Team C T8E v3]
VooDooPH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2009, 11:58 PM   #15089
Tech Addict
 
cyclone speed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 621
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
I would just balance out your car. I feel it's better to have a slightly heavier car that is balanced instead of a light car that is unbalanced.

More shims (raising roll center) under the suspension blocks will create more grip for the first 10-20% of the corner, then prodive less traction throughout the rest. It will make the car "feel" more direct though, as if it has more traction. It just makes the car react really quick and stay flat through corners. I sometimes raise my roll center, in combination with softer springs to make the car create traction, but still have it corner flat and be nice and reactive. It just depends on the traction conditions though.

The opposite is true when you remove shims from the suspension blocks. It lowers the roll center, and creates less grip for the first part of the corner, but in the middle and exit of the corner it will create more grip. It will makes the car roll in the corners more. It will also transfer weight slower though, and make the car feel lazier. In foam tire racing a lot of times a lower roll center is preferred, in combination with stiffer springs. It slows weight transfer down making the car not so grabby to the point where it wants to traction roll right away. It allows the car to slowly gain grip through the corner and still remain flat with the stiffer springs.

-Korey
OK , i will balance my car and the rol center information really helped .

Another question : what is the effect of laying or standing shocks ?
Thanks
cyclone speed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2009, 03:21 AM   #15090
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 459
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooPH View Post
Orion 3800 with the Battery Tray in place.
Hi VooDooPH, thanks for the pic. Do you know if the LRP 5300 28C would fit the Cyclone TC? Actually the LRP Lipo is what I really want
billythekid is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hot Bodies Cyclone S wardyl Electric On-Road 4 10-01-2008 07:01 AM
Hot bodies Cyclone 12 k7king R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 09-04-2008 07:09 AM
WTB Hot Bodies Cyclone/ cyclone Parts tenpins77 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 0 07-29-2008 07:48 AM
Hot Bodies Cyclone sdt1 Australia For Sale/Trade 6 07-13-2008 02:05 AM
WTB: Cyclone S/Cyclone Painted bodies vazzo Australia Wanted to Buy 0 02-05-2008 05:15 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:12 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net