just recently bought the bottom of the range cyclone (u no the full plastic pre built kit) just as a thrasher for when im not at the track and for some reason cant get any gear mesh wat so ever
the motor is a 540 the spur is that which came with the car and i first tried a 33 tooth pinion.... no mesh now just bought a bigger pinion....NO MESH and no matter how i position twist and turn the motor im still mm's away
ive also dremeled the housing to move the motor a lil closer and still NO MESH!!!!!!
can anyone please help
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just recently bought the bottom of the range cyclone (u no the full plastic pre built kit) just as a thrasher for when im not at the track and for some reason cant get any gear mesh wat so ever
the motor is a 540 the spur is that which came with the car and i first tried a 33 tooth pinion.... no mesh now just bought a bigger pinion....NO MESH and no matter how i position twist and turn the motor im still mm's away
ive also dremeled the housing to move the motor a lil closer and still NO MESH!!!!!!
can anyone please help
Hi there
the internal ratio of the cyclone S is 2.44 if I aint mistaken.... that should help you reach anywhere between more or less 5.0 (yes I've done it) to 10-ish+ fdr if you use the proper spur/pinion combo. For my 10.5-powered hara Ed (same architecture as your S) I run 6.8 fdr, which if I remember well is obtained thru a 28 pinion and a 78 spur (yes I'm an old fart who runs 48DP because I absolutely HATE adjusting mesh with 64DP)... and there is a lot of space to mesh tighter or disconnect the pinion from the spur.
Check your spur's size. maybe you got like an 85 or something as a mistake... But I'm more enclined to think you use the wrong holes in the motor can. You should use diametrally opposed holes (there are two sets of them). This is likely the source of your problem (on top of using a relatively small pinion).
Paul
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Lonestar has the right idea. The closer the upper arm (camber link in our case) gets to being equal length with the lower arm, the less camber regression (going more negative) there will be. When the upper and lower arms are of equal length it gives pretty much zero camber change. When you go shorter, it increases camber change (it goes more negative) as the suspension is compressed.
How does this effect the car? Longer will typically create more overall traction in the middle and exit of the corner, but it makes the car react slower intially. When you make the links shorter it increases initial grip and has less traction in the middle and exit of a corner. Higher traction tracks with a twisty layout will favor shorter camber links and lower traction tracks with a longer sweeping layout will favor longer links.
It does depend a little on where you are making the change though. What I just outlined is specifically when you change the camber link length from the bulkhead. The outer mounting position will have some different overall results when changed. On the HB Cyclone we have two different camber link mounting positions on the rear hub carrier. The inner one will make the rear end react really quick initially and have more overall grip through the turn. The outer mounting position makes the rear end of the car react a little slower, but it also reduces grip in the middle and exit of the corner. I use the inner position in most conditions, but with my foam tire carpet racing I've been testing a lot of, I have been liking the outer position a lot.
The angle of camber links also messes with camber change as well. Flatter links will give less overall camber change. They produce a little bit more initial grip, but for the most part they produce less overall grip through the middle and exit of a corner. More angled links will produce slightly less initial grip, but more grip in the middle and exit of a corner.
Hope that helps!!!
-Korey
Yes Korey it does help!
Now next question is the swaybar action or lack there of. I generally set my car up using the 1.2mm in the rear, the thin copper one. Now lifting one arm up almost has no effect on the other. Isn't this swaybar the pointless or am I missing something?
Now next question is the swaybar action or lack there of. I generally set my car up using the 1.2mm in the rear, the thin copper one. Now lifting one arm up almost has no effect on the other. Isn't this swaybar the pointless or am I missing something?
-Tino
Are you testing it with shocks and tires off?
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what a good setting to start on carpet for droop setting, for just starting on a fresh track to a well groove carpet track such as snow birds etc thxs let hear info
just recently bought the bottom of the range cyclone (u no the full plastic pre built kit) just as a thrasher for when im not at the track and for some reason cant get any gear mesh wat so ever
the motor is a 540 the spur is that which came with the car and i first tried a 33 tooth pinion.... no mesh now just bought a bigger pinion....NO MESH and no matter how i position twist and turn the motor im still mm's away
ive also dremeled the housing to move the motor a lil closer and still NO MESH!!!!!!
can anyone please help
dremeled the housing ... thats extreme!
i'm guessing the Cyclone S came with the standard 64p 100T spur, according to the Cyclone manual i have, you should be able to get it meshed properly if you use 34T to 40T pinions. i think to get smaller pinions installed get the BL motor mount, it also allows you to use larger 110T spurs.
anyone have a good low bite carpet setup and i mean low grip
we have a spec tire of jaco greens also
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