Funny - I always thought the opposite? longer links = less camber intake = less roll (all other things being equal, esp angling)... additionnally, longer links mean less IC changes with compression changes, so the IC remains higher, wich means even less roll... or am I mistaken?
thanks
Paul
From my understanding it is the angle of the link that affect camber gain, rather than the link width. The link width affects how the car rolls or negotiates the corner, if the chassis is soft and you have a short link the car will setup the corner and start to roll then come to the end rather quickly causing it to traction roll, bottom out, slide out etc. Due to the lack of side bite. See below from one of the many setup guides I have....
C
AMBER LINK
more PARALLEL - lower roll center and increase roll of the car. More traction at that end of the car. Less camber change.
more ANGLED - raise roll center and less roll of the car. Less traction at that end of the car. Can use softer shock settings. More camber change.
SHORTER - less traction. Car rolls less. Reacts quicker initially and less overall.
REAR
: more steering (but can cause rear to lift)
FRONT
: less steering
LONGER - more traction. Car rolls more to outer edge of tire and gives you more side bite. Reacts slower initially but will react more.
REAR
: less steering - need more camber
FRONT
: more steering
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From my understanding it is the angle of the link that affect camber gain, rather than the link width.
it's both - actually, from a purely geometric standpoint, the length of the upper link has an even higher effect of camber intake on the wheel than its angle vs. the lower A-arm. Take a piece of paper, draw it with a circle drawer and you will figure it out easily
Now, when it comes to figuring out how camber intake affects the car, it's a completely different question... regarding this one, it depends on the rest of the car setup and the tires you use. "it depends"
Paul
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Lonestar has the right idea. The closer the upper arm (camber link in our case) gets to being equal length with the lower arm, the less camber regression (going more negative) there will be. When the upper and lower arms are of equal length it gives pretty much zero camber change. When you go shorter, it increases camber change (it goes more negative) as the suspension is compressed.
How does this effect the car? Longer will typically create more overall traction in the middle and exit of the corner, but it makes the car react slower intially. When you make the links shorter it increases initial grip and has less traction in the middle and exit of a corner. Higher traction tracks with a twisty layout will favor shorter camber links and lower traction tracks with a longer sweeping layout will favor longer links.
It does depend a little on where you are making the change though. What I just outlined is specifically when you change the camber link length from the bulkhead. The outer mounting position will have some different overall results when changed. On the HB Cyclone we have two different camber link mounting positions on the rear hub carrier. The inner one will make the rear end react really quick initially and have more overall grip through the turn. The outer mounting position makes the rear end of the car react a little slower, but it also reduces grip in the middle and exit of the corner. I use the inner position in most conditions, but with my foam tire carpet racing I've been testing a lot of, I have been liking the outer position a lot.
The angle of camber links also messes with camber change as well. Flatter links will give less overall camber change. They produce a little bit more initial grip, but for the most part they produce less overall grip through the middle and exit of a corner. More angled links will produce slightly less initial grip, but more grip in the middle and exit of a corner.
Hope that helps!!!
-Korey
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ok gusy iv got a TC coming i was womdering id there is anythin i shud watch 4 as i build it
the last cyclone i built was the Original black car and i know there were a few minor sports that needed attention just wondering it there is anythin dramatic 2 watch 4
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Set up posted at www.gearchart.com Take a look and let me know what you think. It's posted under Sean Williams.
Hi STLNLST ,
Do you have a picture of the track you ran on , because the setup is under a open track and im running on a meduim-tight track , and also , was the rear end of your car sliding a bit trough chicanes or at the exit of the corner , thanks if you could answer me , i appreciate , thank you.
Do you have a picture of the track you ran on , because the setup is under a open track and im running on a meduim-tight track , and also , was the rear end of your car sliding a bit trough chicanes or at the exit of the corner , thanks if you could answer me , i appreciate , thank you.
Car was planted. No sliding. You can find pics of the track at www.amainhobbies.com click on the track portion of the website. The pics on there are not of the current layout though.
Car was planted. No sliding. You can find pics of the track at www.amainhobbies.com click on the track portion of the website. The pics on there are not of the current layout though.
So i might try the setup at the track on sunday but ive been told that less shims under the pivot blocks will produce more grip , is it true , because if it is the track must have been really really really high grip , and also what is the effect of more shims under the pivot blocks ?
Thanks
So i might try the setup at the track on sunday but ive been told that less shims under the pivot blocks will produce more grip , is it true , because if it is the track must have been really really really high grip , and also what is the effect of more shims under the pivot blocks ?
Thanks
The track was high grip. Try the set up out first before you make changes.
There's going to be a black cyclone with hop up's and spares for sale by the weekend. If anyone is interested in a PPD tweak plate I'll have that for sale as well.
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