thanks that was wat i was looking 4 ill prob use ae springs as that all i got right now till i can fund a deal on some x rax one
just trying 2 get everything straing as im going 2 b swiching bank 2 my belovid cyclone after takin a another maufactures car thru the paces for a few months but i miss my cyclone
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Set up posted at www.gearchart.com Take a look and let me know what you think. It's posted under Sean Williams.
Wow, definitely a different way to get the balance:
- Higher roll centers (3 vs. my 1 to 1.5 shims) and geometry (inboard toe 0 front and 2 rear vs. my 1.5-2.5 front and 3 rear) should make the car a little more twitchy and corner flatter
- Slower damping (5-10W higher than mine), 1 rate softer springs, longer rear upper link and ackerman (3mm vs my 4) should then smoothen out the car and give back some mid corner roll.
In the end, it might balance out to something similar to what I'm running. But it's the first setup that's quite different from everything else I've seen.
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Wow, definitely a different way to get the balance:
- Higher roll centers (3 vs. my 1 to 1.5 shims) and geometry (inboard toe 0 front and 2 rear vs. my 1.5-2.5 front and 3 rear) should make the car a little more twitchy and corner flatter
- Slower damping (5-10W higher than mine), 1 rate softer springs, longer rear upper link and ackerman (3mm vs my 4) should then smoothen out the car and give back some mid corner roll.
In the end, it might balance out to something similar to what I'm running. But it's the first setup that's quite different from everything else I've seen.
I was thinking the exact same thing when the set up was given to me. I questioned it even while putting it on my car It never felt twitchy IMO. The car was planted. The only different thing I'm going to try the next time out is switching to the 3 hole pistons but leave everything else the same. I'm curious to see if the laptimes are slower, faster, the same. If you get the time try it out and see how it handles compared to your current set up.
I was thinking the exact same thing when the set up was given to me. I questioned it even while putting it on my car It never felt twitchy IMO. The car was planted. The only different thing I'm going to try the next time out is switching to the 3 hole pistons but leave everything else the same. I'm curious to see if the laptimes are slower, faster, the same. If you get the time try it out and see how it handles compared to your current set up.
Yes, the time might be an issue at the event, with pretty limited practice. But I'll see how it goes. Worth trying, I think.
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They list the pinks at 17.9 and the blue's at 15.3 As far as actual I have no clue. If you don't have the exact springs try using something close in what ever brand you choose. Me personally I like the Xray springs because they are fully colored and not just the ends where they can flake off. If i decide to run my Xray springs on this set up I would go white front (17.5) and blue/green rear (15)
Here is a spring chart that I made, please take a look! Hope this helps
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What is the difference between addind shims on the outer part of the camber links as opposed to the inside? Also makinf the rear part of the hinge pin higher than the front does this give mor traction, please explain as detailed as possible.
What is the difference between addind shims on the outer part of the camber links as opposed to the inside? Also makinf the rear part of the hinge pin higher than the front does this give mor traction, please explain as detailed as possible.
-Thanks
where's Korey Harbke when you need him?
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What is the difference between addind shims on the outer part of the camber links as opposed to the inside? Also makinf the rear part of the hinge pin higher than the front does this give mor traction, please explain as detailed as possible.
-Thanks
I adjust the links on either the inside or the out side based on what I am trying to accomplish with the links. If I want them to be flat then I will add shims on the inside (because the hub sits a lot higher the the inside ball stud). If I want more angle (outside ball stud sits higher then the inside ballstud) then you can add them to the outside.
...If I want the chassis to roll more I will make sure the links are angled (outside sits higher then the inside). If I want to reduce roll then I make sure they are flat. Obviously there is a lot of in between options.
I almost never add shims above the c-hub. There seems to be enough difference to accommodate any links changes on the inside.
Length of the link also matters...Short links makes the chassis rolls deeper into a corner thus increasing grip. Long the car rolls less.
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There's going to be a black cyclone with hop up's and spares for sale by the weekend. If anyone is interested in a PPD tweak plate I'll have that for sale as well.
There's going to be a black cyclone with hop up's and spares for sale by the weekend. If anyone is interested in a PPD tweak plate I'll have that for sale as well.
There's going to be a black cyclone with hop up's and spares for sale by the weekend. If anyone is interested in a PPD tweak plate I'll have that for sale as well.
oh?!?!
I'm interested
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Length of the link also matters...long links makes the chassis rolls deeper into a corner thus increasing grip. Short the car rolls less (not as much camber gain).
Funny - I always thought the opposite? longer links = less camber intake = less roll (all other things being equal, esp angling)... additionnally, longer links mean less IC changes with compression changes, so the IC remains higher, wich means even less roll... or am I mistaken?
thanks
Paul
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Funny - I always thought the opposite? longer links = less camber intake = less roll (all other things being equal, esp angling)... additionnally, longer links mean less IC changes with compression changes, so the IC remains higher, wich means even less roll... or am I mistaken?
thanks
Paul
Yep typed those backwards...I will update. Thanks for catching that
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