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Old 01-12-2009, 10:27 AM   #15001
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
It was on carpet with rubber tire's. I don't know what set up Scotty was running. He is running the BMI chassis though. I wi;; post my set up on www.gearchart.com sometime tomorrow.
Clint - did you want that BMI kit? Check back a page or two about what I have for you if you really wanted it.
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Old 01-12-2009, 11:29 AM   #15002
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Lonestar- Seems you figured things out. The HPI red cap grease is a lot thinner than Tamiya anti-wear. Honestly any really thick, heavy duty grease will work fine. I currently have MMR black grease in mine right now, but I've used tamiya anti wear in the past on other cars with really good results as well. I just use what I have a lot of at the time for the most part haha.

Also, I understand the issues with most other plastic outdrives, and I worried about them at first with this car as well. I remember when I had my Tamiya evo 3 with those ridiculous white outdrives that notched in 3 runs. But I must say, I had 70-80 battery packs on my POM outdrives with a mix of stock and modified racing and I can't even tell they wore at all.

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Old 01-12-2009, 12:36 PM   #15003
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Clint - did you want that BMI kit? Check back a page or two about what I have for you if you really wanted it.
I would get it but I'm only going to race carpet about 2 more times. I don't think I'd run it on asphalt.
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Old 01-12-2009, 02:27 PM   #15004
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Just wanted to tell you guys about a new product specifically designed for the Cyclone TC. It is a brass LIPO plate that slides in under the LIPO. It weights about 190Grams and fits perfectly in the car. I worked with Chris over at Manutech to ensure that it fits and meets the weight requirements required to support some of the LIPOs on the market. It weights in at about 190grams but could be lightened to support heavier LIPOs.

In order to make it fit you have to remove some of the material on the bulked that covers the battery, but I think this is the case trying to fit any LIPO in the TC.

The LIPOs that I know fit are:
Orion 3200, 3600, 3800
IP 3800 35C (this is the one I use)
3Racing 3700
SMC4000

Check it out here: http://manutech.info/rcracinghome/racingproducts.html

Please check it out...Chris over at Manutech Racing is really cool and can help answer any questions you may have.

FYI- I am running this plate and need no extra weight to get the car balanced on and off the track. It works great and fits perfectly!

I am not sure if it will work with the other Cyclones because I do not have one to test with. If the regular cyclone has the larger slots then there is a good chance it will fit.
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Old 01-12-2009, 02:45 PM   #15005
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How much of the bulkhead did you have to remove? We stock the trays, and I'm trying to update the fitments list.

Easiest thing to know is that the TC5 tray is .1" thick. Then measure the space between your chassis and top deck. See what's there, and subtract the .1" for the tray. Most of the low deck cars can get the shorter packs 4000mah and lower stuffed in.

Most of the 5000 stuff at this time, seems to be about 24.5mm thick, by itself.

If any of you guys need help with fitments or pack dimensions, check our site. If a dimension isn't listed, drop us a note and we'll get it for you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by artwork View Post
Just wanted to tell you guys about a new product specifically designed for the Cyclone TC. It is a brass LIPO plate that slides in under the LIPO. It weights about 190Grams and fits perfectly in the car. I worked with Chris over at Manutech to ensure that it fits and meets the weight requirements required to support some of the LIPOs on the market. It weights in at about 190grams but could be lightened to support heavier LIPOs.

In order to make it fit you have to remove some of the material on the bulked that covers the battery, but I think this is the case trying to fit any LIPO in the TC.

The LIPOs that I know fit are:
Orion 3200, 3600, 3800
IP 3800 35C (this is the one I use)
3Racing 3700
SMC4000

Check it out here: http://manutech.info/rcracinghome/racingproducts.html

Please check it out...Chris over at Manutech Racing is really cool and can help answer any questions you may have.

FYI- I am running this plate and need no extra weight to get the car balanced on and off the track. It works great and fits perfectly!

I am not sure if it will work with the other Cyclones because I do not have one to test with. If the regular cyclone has the larger slots then there is a good chance it will fit.
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Old 01-12-2009, 03:03 PM   #15006
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Here is a gearchart for all the Cyclone/Orion Fans.

Hope this helps!
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Hot Bodies Gear Chart 2009a.pdf (57.5 KB, 597 views)
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Old 01-12-2009, 03:15 PM   #15007
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Bob-

All good questions...So here is what I got for ya!

Because this plate has pockets for the hump packs you can fit two different types of LIPO packs.

Max height of a hump pack (including the humps) is 23.20MM
Max height of a flat pack is 22.15MM

I have ground off just enough for the pack to fit without rubbing under load. I think it was about 2mm or so. You can take off more but you have to be careful not to take off too much!

My bulked is now 2mm thick above the battery. I am using a M3x6mm screw with a 2mm spacer above the top deck and the screw does not protrude below the bulked.

Hope this helps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob-Stormer View Post
How much of the bulkhead did you have to remove? We stock the trays, and I'm trying to update the fitments list.

Easiest thing to know is that the TC5 tray is .1" thick. Then measure the space between your chassis and top deck. See what's there, and subtract the .1" for the tray. Most of the low deck cars can get the shorter packs 4000mah and lower stuffed in.

Most of the 5000 stuff at this time, seems to be about 24.5mm thick, by itself.

If any of you guys need help with fitments or pack dimensions, check our site. If a dimension isn't listed, drop us a note and we'll get it for you.
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Last edited by artwork; 01-12-2009 at 04:02 PM.
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Old 01-12-2009, 05:48 PM   #15008
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Default C' Hub slop

How Do I get rid of the C' Hub slop? All the screws appear to be tight, Also where the outer hinge pin goes thru the C' hub there is NO slop. So where is the slop coming from, is it the C Hub itself and do you recommend changing to the ALU C hubs?
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Old 01-12-2009, 06:07 PM   #15009
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Originally Posted by trickd122 View Post
How Do I get rid of the C' Hub slop? All the screws appear to be tight, Also where the outer hinge pin goes thru the C' hub there is NO slop. So where is the slop coming from, is it the C Hub itself and do you recommend changing to the ALU C hubs?
is there slop between the arms and the chub(side to side slop) also, could be your turnbuckle ends, they might need replacing.
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Old 01-12-2009, 07:33 PM   #15010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trickd122 View Post
How Do I get rid of the C' Hub slop? All the screws appear to be tight, Also where the outer hinge pin goes thru the C' hub there is NO slop. So where is the slop coming from, is it the C Hub itself and do you recommend changing to the ALU C hubs?
If you're talking about up/down slop in the C-hub, you should shim it: between 0.1 and 0.3mm is what you'll need.

I have a 0.2mm shim over both of my upper C-hub bushings to eliminate up/down slop. I'm using Kyosho clutch shims: 5mm ID, 7mm OD, and you get a bunch of 0.1mm, 0.2mm and 0.3mm in the bag. This shim tip is in Hara's Cyclone build guide.

I wouldn't recommend Alum C-hubs, because if you bend them, you'll never know if they are off by a degree or so... I haven't seen a good guage for checking them that is super-precise. But the car will feel funny as you will end up running uneven caster left-right.
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Old 01-12-2009, 09:01 PM   #15011
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Originally Posted by rc pete View Post
If you're talking about up/down slop in the C-hub, you should shim it: between 0.1 and 0.3mm is what you'll need.

I have a 0.2mm shim over both of my upper C-hub bushings to eliminate up/down slop. I'm using Kyosho clutch shims: 5mm ID, 7mm OD, and you get a bunch of 0.1mm, 0.2mm and 0.3mm in the bag. This shim tip is in Hara's Cyclone build guide.

I wouldn't recommend Alum C-hubs, because if you bend them, you'll never know if they are off by a degree or so... I haven't seen a good guage for checking them that is super-precise. But the car will feel funny as you will end up running uneven caster left-right.
RC Pete-

Do you have a link or a copy of the Hara build guide? I have looked but never found it.

Thanks
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Old 01-12-2009, 09:15 PM   #15012
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RC Pete-

Do you have a link or a copy of the Hara build guide? I have looked but never found it.

Thanks
http://www.google.com/translate?u=ht...F8&sl=ja&tl=en
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Old 01-13-2009, 12:47 AM   #15013
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Can we see a picture of the plate mounted on the Cyclone TC? Thanks.

Edit: I use the IP3800 as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by artwork View Post
Bob-

All good questions...So here is what I got for ya!

Because this plate has pockets for the hump packs you can fit two different types of LIPO packs.

Max height of a hump pack (including the humps) is 23.20MM
Max height of a flat pack is 22.15MM

I have ground off just enough for the pack to fit without rubbing under load. I think it was about 2mm or so. You can take off more but you have to be careful not to take off too much!

My bulked is now 2mm thick above the battery. I am using a M3x6mm screw with a 2mm spacer above the top deck and the screw does not protrude below the bulked.

Hope this helps.
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Last edited by TFR; 01-13-2009 at 01:13 AM.
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Old 01-13-2009, 02:34 AM   #15014
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@ artwork, Korey

thanks for the help gentlemen. I'll stick to the existing trust bearing and AE black graphite grease and stealth lube... if it ain't broke, don't fix it. who cares about $3 lube tubes in the greater scheme of a racing season's budget haha?

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Old 01-13-2009, 08:03 AM   #15015
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See... I cheat and I put things like that in the "Track Food" budget haha. Then you don't feel as bad.

-Korey
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