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Old 01-10-2009, 09:35 AM   #14986
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Originally Posted by cyclone speed View Post
Hi guys , im going racing tomorow on a carpet track and im going to run mod 5.5 and 3.5 to get used to the track. The track i went racing last week , i ran 3.5 with a FDR of 9.6 wch was perfect , everybody was between 9.4 and 9.8 .
This was with 5 cell packs and 3.5 but i would like to know what gearing i should use ( on the hb cyclone WCE ) with a LRP or NOSRAM 5.5 BL 5 cell.
Thanks for any advice guys and if possible could i get an answer before tomorow , thanks.
how about running a slower motor?? i cant see running a 3.5-5.5 brushless indoor.. we have a fairly big track and the most i may run in Foam maybe just under a 10.5... In rubber, if wanted to go faster, it would probably just be a 10.5.. currently 13.5 is fast enough for rubber which is what majority runs locally... and its a blast, the cars are fast, driveable and will not cause too much breakage.......

sometimes at first slower is definately faster.... try it you may see the difference in your personal best lap times.......
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Old 01-11-2009, 05:12 PM   #14987
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hey all just wondering

is the cyclone tc equal weight on both sides without electrics?

cause a few comments back im pretty sure weight disrebution is a very important thing, because my car keeps rolling aswell so im just wondering and also i have to add 300 grams to it so if some cud fill me in about it thankz
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Old 01-11-2009, 06:09 PM   #14988
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It is maybe a tiiiiny bit heavier on the motor side without electronics because of the servo mounts, the steering arm pointing on that side of the car, and the fact the motor mount/bulkhead piece is a little more hefty.

As a whole, you really should balance your car left to right with all your electronics in the car. I honestly can't give you a set amount of weight to slap on the car because it depends on what electronics you have in your car, and even wiring layout/how much wire to a certain extent.

What I do is weigh all of my electronics on a scale, then weigh my battery. I look at the difference between each side, and add weight accordingly. That will at least get you in the ballpark. At that point I think about where the weight should be put on that side of the car. Usually I put a little more in the rear because I need to make that side equal with the motor on the opposite side. After the car is all balanced, I usually just add weight equalll aroudn the car untill I reach the min weight as specified at the track I'm racing at. If the min isn't specified I always just go to roar minimum weight (which I never seem to remember anymore).

One of these days when I get a killer camera I'll put up a sort of killer tuning guide with pictures for you guys. It's sometimes hard to explain these things without pictures haha.

I hope that helps, if youhave any more questions, feel free to post them.

-Korey
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Old 01-11-2009, 07:21 PM   #14989
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yep thankz korey im really hopin it fixs the really harsh rolling in my car

its pretty mad the rolling it does im wondering if thats just a grip problem
back when i was running my plastic traxxas i was thought it was crazy that there was guys at my track that had to add 100s of grams to there cars. but now i see that with the cyclone the carbon makes abig difference

anyway thankz heaps
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Old 01-11-2009, 07:43 PM   #14990
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This car rocks. Had a great time this weekend and can't wait to do it all again soon. Scotty and I had a blast and if any of you ever meet him.....ask to take his car for a spin. I CAN BEAT HARA with his car Man that thing felt great. I would have TQ'ed and won if Scotty would have been a team player and let me run his car all day
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Old 01-11-2009, 08:37 PM   #14991
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Just raced my newly built cyclone TC kit everything went together great. However there is a lot of play in the spur gear I dont know if that's normal. The car ran really well for the first race at the colisium which is extremely high grip indoor asphalt.

,Anyone know of a good setup on high bit asphalt with a front one-way in front?
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Old 01-11-2009, 10:04 PM   #14992
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ah that reminds me

is it smart to get a better rear dif for the cyclone if there is one

and are these
http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....roducts_id=205

better then the stock shafts?
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Old 01-11-2009, 10:47 PM   #14993
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
This car rocks. Had a great time this weekend and can't wait to do it all again soon. Scotty and I had a blast and if any of you ever meet him.....ask to take his car for a spin. I CAN BEAT HARA with his car Man that thing felt great. I would have TQ'ed and won if Scotty would have been a team player and let me run his car all day
You guys should maybe post that setup *cough Cough* so all can see and try it . What surface was it on?

-Korey
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Old 01-11-2009, 10:51 PM   #14994
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Originally Posted by deanomgwhiteguy View Post
ah that reminds me

is it smart to get a better rear dif for the cyclone if there is one

and are these
http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....roducts_id=205

better then the stock shafts?
If you got the Cyclone TC, then you already have the best diff for the car! You could get the aluminum outdrives if you wanted too, but I don't feel they are needed unless you run on carpet with foam tires, or with modified motors.
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Old 01-11-2009, 10:54 PM   #14995
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Originally Posted by TJames987 View Post
Just raced my newly built cyclone TC kit everything went together great. However there is a lot of play in the spur gear I dont know if that's normal. The car ran really well for the first race at the colisium which is extremely high grip indoor asphalt.

,Anyone know of a good setup on high bit asphalt with a front one-way in front?
I did post a good setup for super high bite asphalt with a spool a while back. PM me if you want to give it a shot.

About the spur gear, if it's side to side... just loosen the pulleys upo a bit and move them to take the slack from the layshaft up between the bulkheads. the spur gear adapter itself could be loose from the shaft. Make sure you tighten the set screws down good on the flat spots of the shaft and use some medium thread lock (the blue stuff).

-Korey
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Old 01-12-2009, 01:06 AM   #14996
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
You guys should maybe post that setup *cough Cough* so all can see and try it . What surface was it on?

-Korey
It was on carpet with rubber tire's. I don't know what set up Scotty was running. He is running the BMI chassis though. I wi;; post my set up on www.gearchart.com sometime tomorrow.
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Old 01-12-2009, 05:37 AM   #14997
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Originally Posted by deanomgwhiteguy View Post
hey all just wondering

is the cyclone tc equal weight on both sides without electrics?

cause a few comments back im pretty sure weight disrebution is a very important thing, because my car keeps rolling aswell so im just wondering and also i have to add 300 grams to it so if some cud fill me in about it thankz

Also remember when balancing, it is not the weight balance only from side to side. If you hang 300 grams out the side of the battery the car will roll harder to that side than if you place it under, behind or infront. Balancing a car is finding the right placement as well for the weight. There has been a few times where I thought I had perfect balance using the HUDY balance buttons but to only find out on the track the cars roll center was way off. So the best scale to find out if your car is balanced is the track, and how it handles from side to side.

-j
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Old 01-12-2009, 05:50 AM   #14998
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yep i just removed all electronics from the car

weighed everything in the orders they needed

i calculated how much weight wud be needed for the battery side to be equal to the motor side and just evenly added the rest of the weight to get to the minimum for racing

thankz guys
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Old 01-12-2009, 08:41 AM   #14999
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Thats really odd Lonestar (I just laughed a little on the inside thinking of the movie Spaceballs). Anyway, the pro diff has been the easiest diff I've ever built. Usually I go through and sand diff rings to make sure they are flat, but I never even had to touch the diff rings on the pro diff.

Did you by any chance try to build it with the POM outdrives that are supplied with it to see if the problem persists??? It might be you had a funky aluminum outdrives, even though I don't know of any current problems with them. I use the aluminum ones personally for foam tire carpet racing. Don't be afraid to use the POM outdrives either. I thought that were amazing as far as durability goes. I had 60 battery packs on mine with next to no wear. I just have the aluminum ones because they look pretty cool haha.

Too much grease can be a problem as well. I tend to just add a tiny bit in each of the diff ball holes in the pulley then drop the balls right in. I personally use Corally diff grease right now, since I have 8 bazzillion of them from my previous ride with Corally. If I use associated diff grease I use the silicone diff grease (has red colored text on the tube instead of black), or my personal favorite is schumacher diff grease. PACK the thrust with associated black grease or tamiya anti-wear grease.

Also, another thing most people don't think about is when compressing the diff spring, you MUST make sure you do it squarely. 9 times out of 10, pliers won't do it perfect. If you have a small vice, compress the spring in a vice. It will make the spring much truer, and remove a lot of the tight/loose syndrome that some people get in their diffs.

Hopefully that gives you some food for thought!

-Korey

Korey and all,

thanks for the help and answering my silly diff questions. Great tip re the initial compression of the spring... never thought about it but will use a vice from now on. Is this step really needed in the end?

After break-in the diff was better but way to gritty for a new built one. After qualifier one, it hadn't improved a bit (haaaa... wishful thinking). I took it to one of our setup gurus and he said the trust bearing assembly was shot, even if it was new... to the bin it went, and with the new trust bearing, the diff felt great.

I also learnt something interesting. Diff felt great in hand, but was gritty when tested with the wheels on... four brand new 5x10x4 bearings in the rear hubs didn't help much. A good, knowledgeable buddy of mine mentioned that he noticed the bearings sold by the shop we both buy from tended to be out of spec sometimes, a bit on the wide side (read that the 4 might be 4.1mm or so...) hence with proper shimming between the outer bearing and the wheel hex (I use lightened yokomo ones), the bearings might end being "compressed" and bind. I removed one of the shims... and the assembly now feels great. Too bad I ended qual'ing 4th in the B one lap down from the A-mainers (some of it due to the weird reactions of the car on-throttle coming from the diff... most coming from driving mistakes I must admit ). I worked my way to 2nd in the first B-main round despite starting dead last after corner 1 crash. In the second one we start in the reverse order of arrival from the first round (that's a local "specificity" to prevent routine-esque races where TQ'er wins most of the time and provide a more lively "show" to the audience). After a couple of lap I was back to the mid of the pack, then started working my way to the top when the outside rear wheelnut decided to come off at 4mns when I was 2nd. Couldn't help but laughing but I was pretty PO'ed. I used the serrated, non-nylstop wheels on my Hara Edition. Oh well. I'll CA them next time

All in all, diff feels good even after both mains. No way I will use the composite outdrives, I have too many bad memories of changing them every race or so on my MR4TC-SD-SSG-SP (you can breathe now), plus I still have a stock of blades I need to go through before I change rides With a proper diff, this car might now be a more forgiving ride, I was beginning to get a bit tired of rebuilding the diff every three runs during raceday to be honest.

I also experimented with Pro-Squat this time... seems to be working well in low-grip conditions, I could power out of the chicane at the beginning of the straight much easier than some of the other folks.

Still have the following questions:
- Any brand makes monobloc trust bearings that can be used with the new 3mm diff screw? (the spare tamiya ones I have only fit on the old diff)
- Is HB's pot of red grease the same as Tamiya AWG and a good use for the stock trust bearing?


Thanks for the help,
Paul
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Old 01-12-2009, 08:52 AM   #15000
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Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
Still have the following questions:
- Any brand makes monobloc trust bearings that can be used with the new 3mm diff screw? (the spare tamiya ones I have only fit on the old diff)
- Is HB's pot of red grease the same as Tamiya AWG and a good use for the stock trust bearing?


Thanks for the help,
Paul
No one piece thrust out there for this diff.
I use the AE black grease for the thrust bearing. Seems to be the best, and one tube should last a long time.
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