HPI Sprint 2 Mods
#346
I'm glad to hear both front and rear diffs on the the sprint 2 sport are the geared type! Those are what I like, what I'm used to, and more like 1:1 vehicles than spools or ball diffs. I'm more into speed and racing verses drifting. And right after I buy one.....they are sure to release an awesome new version!
#347
The S2 is ass heavy.
Depending on your battery pack(s) =
You can move the posts in front of the battery forward to the next set of holes in the chassis, as well as moving the battery holders forward, to balance front to rear weight better.
I use ROAR approved 2S 7.4v 5000mAH hard case LiPos so I'm married to the OEM mounting holes.
Side to side weight can be adjusted with the battery holders =
Do the holder mod in this thread and you have more adjustment range.
After that =
Shocks, springs, more weight up front,camber, toe, etc...
Depending on your battery pack(s) =
You can move the posts in front of the battery forward to the next set of holes in the chassis, as well as moving the battery holders forward, to balance front to rear weight better.
I use ROAR approved 2S 7.4v 5000mAH hard case LiPos so I'm married to the OEM mounting holes.
Side to side weight can be adjusted with the battery holders =
Do the holder mod in this thread and you have more adjustment range.
After that =
Shocks, springs, more weight up front,camber, toe, etc...
#348
Don't rely on just the OEM battery holders (clawed pieces) to secure the battery =
They won't
You'd be wise to come up with a "spacer" idea so that once you find the balance point you can fix the position
I use pop sickle sticks and a lock down bolt through the upper deck to secure my battery.
They won't
You'd be wise to come up with a "spacer" idea so that once you find the balance point you can fix the position
I use pop sickle sticks and a lock down bolt through the upper deck to secure my battery.
Last edited by Marv; 01-28-2013 at 12:55 PM.
#349
Tech Apprentice
#350
You found 'em
The only game on the planet
They've been out of stock for a couple of months
Nice to see they are back making & selling them
Orange ones are plentiful at 46 = http://www.radshapercshop.com/hpi-sp...-prod-480.html
But they could go fast!
I'd jump on one of those myself if I wasn't already allocating my grocery $ for 2013 Westgate Spring Series
And the (USVTA) 2013 Scale Nationals @ Winthrop in April
The Silk Purse needs a new dress for that dance and one of them fancy 'spensive lap counter thingees...
Maybe some new shoes, too...
#351
Here's a decent post about what to get for strengthening your car bodies =
http://www.rctech.net/forum/11758844-post4012.html
PERSONAL NOTE:
I've tried several silicon glues including windshield silicon & liquid nails =
They don't work for crap & don't hold the mesh properly (IMAO)
And the silicon peels off too easily
To fill the gap between your current bumper & body you can also use HPI6273 self-adhesive foam bumper strips =
http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/6273/
TIP:
Use contact cement like Weldwood on the main bumper before sticking the strips on - http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=47
If you need to customize a bumper Parma PSE makes a universal bumper (block of foam) =
http://parmapse.shptron.com/p/ultima...rs?pp=15&pp=15
http://www.rctech.net/forum/11758844-post4012.html
PERSONAL NOTE:
I've tried several silicon glues including windshield silicon & liquid nails =
They don't work for crap & don't hold the mesh properly (IMAO)
And the silicon peels off too easily
To fill the gap between your current bumper & body you can also use HPI6273 self-adhesive foam bumper strips =
http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/6273/
TIP:
Use contact cement like Weldwood on the main bumper before sticking the strips on - http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=47
If you need to customize a bumper Parma PSE makes a universal bumper (block of foam) =
http://parmapse.shptron.com/p/ultima...rs?pp=15&pp=15
Last edited by Marv; 02-01-2013 at 09:24 PM. Reason: Content Added
#352
Tech Apprentice
So I bent both of my aluminum back wheels... One from hitting a plastic cone and one from hitting a curb... I have shit luck...
#354
Tech Apprentice
Yeah, so far I have lost screws, bent 2 axles, broke 2 axles, stretched a belt, and bent 3 wheels... Not even had the car for 2 months yet...
#355
#357
One time I crashed my thunder tiger nitro tomahawk at top speed straight into the end of a concrete parking block.......geeeezz!.......the crunching noise was truly remarkable. People were looking at me from two blocks away like "you idiot!!".......lol. So many entire systems on that car were completely destroyed......I just saved a few parts and that was the end!
Mike
Mike
#358
#359
When you upgrade to aluminum parts =
Aluminum bends & breaks eventually =
Some other plastic composite part that your aluminum part is attached to is likely to break =
Example:
If you upgrade the C blocks & front hubs to aluminum =
Chances are that:
A) They will bend =
You're boned...
OR
B) The control arm (which is the next weakest ling in the chain) will break, most likely after the aluminum parts bend =
You're really boned...
This info I got from very knowledgeable track owner/racer, but explained in my own words...
#360
Example:
I have a set of aluminum rear hubs in my track box...
(They're 3° hubs - can't get aluminum in 2° // I use 2° hubs...)
HOWEVER, if I was to install them before I learn to stop smacking the barriers and walls =
There's a 99% chance that the rear control arms would break on impact and these take more time to replace than a rear hub does...
The cost is the same for arms and hubs, unless the bearing gets trashed...
But time wise replacing hubs is a lot faster (IMAO)
And I don't have to mess with those damned E clips...