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Old 08-06-2012, 02:09 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARCELO CAMPOS View Post
Hi Marv.

I read twice your topic.

I have a Sprint 2 Sport and i lke very much this chassis. But when you install a capacitor you didn't mention the capacitance of the capacitor. And how to install it!

Thanks a lot.

Marcelo
Not to step on Marv here but the cap he's referring to is a glitch buster which is sold by Novak or Spektrum and plugs into the reciever in the aux or bind or any open channel.
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Old 08-06-2012, 02:49 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARCELO CAMPOS View Post
Hi Marv.

I read twice your topic.
I have a Sprint 2 Sport and i lke very much this chassis. But when you install a capacitor you didn't mention the capacitance of the capacitor. And how to install it!
Thanks a lot.
Marcelo
Quote:
Originally Posted by nubie-wan View Post
Not to step on Marv here but the cap he's referring to is a glitch buster which is sold by Novak or Spektrum and plugs into the reciever in the aux or bind or any open channel.


All voodoo is welcome here nubie-wan!

I used the Associated LRP BEC Stabilizing Capacitor that I purchased at my LHS (Ad Venture Hobbies).

It's the same as the ones nubie-wan mentioned / just different maker.


HPI Sprint 2 Mods - Making a silk purse from a sow's ear.-dscn4379.jpg HPI Sprint 2 Mods - Making a silk purse from a sow's ear.-dscn4380.jpg

Here's a link in case you want to make your own -

The poster explains what you need and how to make one.

SPOILER ALERT =
Parts
A 10 to 16v 2000 to 6700+µf capacitor you can get these at radio shack.
A receiver input plug you can get these at the hobby shop.
Tools
A soldering iron and solder


http://www.instructables.com/id/How-...-buster-for-1/


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Old 08-06-2012, 06:46 PM   #78
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Default Receiver Capacitors / Glitch Busters

Here's a few of the more common / available (glitch buster) receiver capacitors.

Novak Glitch Buster Capacitor - #5626
http://www.shopatron.com/products/pr...=NOV5626/135.0

Spektrum Voltage Protector - SPM1600
http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/D...ProdID=SPM1600

LRP - BEC Stabilising Capacitor - #80135
http://www.lrp.cc/en/products/electr...sator/details/

Receiver Capacitor - PL1440
http://www.niko.com.my/webshaper/pcm/product/PL1440.asp

Glitch Buster Power Capacitor - RCE2474
http://www.racers-edge.com/Glitch_Bu..._p/rce2474.htm

Atomik Glitch Buster
http://www.venom-group.com/Store/Glitch-Buster

Here's a whole thread to peruse - Capacitor connected to receiver? What does it benefit?

Last edited by Marv; 08-07-2012 at 08:44 AM.
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Old 08-07-2012, 07:46 AM   #79
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Default RC Pedia - Setup Theory

RC Pedia - Setup Theory

Quote:
Setup Theory

At it's most basic level setting up an RC car involves making changes to the way the car reacts to weight transfer. Diving too much under braking ? Stop the weight going forwards.. Not able to make a turn coming out when you're on the throttle ? too much weight moving backwards.

Below are some of the changes that can be made to help you get a setup that not only works, but more importantly, works for YOUR DRIVING style.
■Camber:

This is the angle that the wheels lean left or right when looking at the car from in front or behind the car.
Camber can be POSITIVE (top of the wheel further away from the chassis than the bottom) or NEGATIVE (top of the wheel closer to the chassis than the bottom.
Note: Generally, you will NEVER need to use POSITIVE camber.
■Caster

This describes the forward/backward angle of the steering block in relation to a line perpendicular to the ground.
A higher caster angle has the effect of leaning the tyres into the direction of the corner.

More caster will result in:
■better straight line stability
■less steering on corner entry
■more steering mid corner and corner exit

Less caster will result in:
■decrease in straight line stability
■more steering on corner entry
■less steering mid corner and corner exit

To adjust caster, you would normally have the change the steering blocks out for ones with a different amount of caster on them.
■Toe Angle:

This is the angle that the wheels point left or right at when looking from above the chassis.
Toe can be IN (front of the wheels pointing towards the chassis) or OUT (front of the wheels pointing away from the chassis).

Front:
More Toe In:
■Increases understeer
■Less steering at corner entry
■Decreases straight line stability

More Toe Out:
■Increases oversteer
■More steering at corner entry
■Increases straight line stability

Rear:
More Toe In:
■Increases understeer
■Increases stability on power

Less Toe In:
■Decreases stability on power

Generally the Rear wheels should never have toe-out, but the Front wheels can have either toe-out or toe-in
■Shock Damping/Springing

Shock absorbers and the springs you use are one of the most critical elements of any setup.
Shock springs:
A Stiffer spring (higher rating):
■Make the car more responsive
■React quicker to steering
■Better suited to tracks where bumps are quite low

A Softer spring (lower rating):
■Allow the chassis to roll around a little more
■Tend to perform better on bumpy tracks
■Make the car less responsive

Damping:
Damping mainly helps with a change to the cars suspension, such as a bump or braking for a corner. It is managed through the use of a shock oil and a shock piston.

Shock oil is rated on how viscous it is with a higher rating meaning the oil is thicker and more viscous.
Shock pistons have a number of holes in them to control the flow of oil through them.

Front:
Softer Damping (either through thinner oil or a piston with more holes):
■Slower steering response
■Decrease initial steering
■Increase steering at corner exit

Hard damping: (either through thicker oil or a piston with less holes):
■Faster steering response
■Increase initial steering
■Decrease steering at corner exit

Rear:
Softer Damping:
■Faster steering
■Increase rear grip at corner exit
■Decrease rear grip under braking

Harder Damping:
■Slower steering
■Decrease rear grip at corner exit
■Increase rear grip under braking

Getting shock damping and springing right for the track conditions is something that can transform the way your car handles.
■Droop/Downstops

Droop is a much discussed topic (how to measure it, what it is etc) Put simply, droop is the amount of difference between the ride height and the limit for the suspension arms.
Downstops are found on most modern touring car chassis and are used to limit the amount of downtravel that the suspension arms have. When someone running a touring car says they are running "5 droop on the rear and 4 on the front" they actually mean that the suspension arms are measured at 5mm below the chassis level and NOT the actual droop measurement.

To measure droop, use a ride height gauge and take a measurement of ride height at one end of the vehicle. Now lift that end of the vehicle slowly until you get to the point where the tyres leave the ground. Measure the ride height again at this point. The difference between the first and second measurement is Droop.

To measure downstop travel, remove the shocks and any anti roll bars you may have installed on the vehicle. PLace the chassis on some droop blocks and make sure the suspension arms drop under their own weight. Now take your droop guage and take a measurement from the bottom of the suspension arm. This can be changed by turning the downstop screw in that suspension arm (higher number on the guage = less downtravel).

Note: Generally, the terms droop and downstops are used interchangeably when referring to a Touring Car setup change.
■Ride height

This is how far from the ground the chassis is when stationary. It is normally measured in mm. You can raise or lower the ride height depending on track conditions.
■Gearing:

You can change the gearing of the vehicle to tune the speed of it to the track you are running on. A good start point is to set the FDR so that the top speed is reached at about 3/4 of the way down the main straight. From there you can tune it to your liking.

FDR (Final Drive Ratio):
This term relates to the final drive ratio on an rc vehicle.
A lower FDR will generally increase the top speed of the vehicle, but make the acceleration slower.
A higher FDR will generally do the opposite.

Internal Ratio:
This varies between manufacturers and is a ratio between the pulleys in the transmission car. For example and Xray T2 '007 has 34 tooth pulleys for the front and rear differential locations, and a 20 tooth fixed pulley in the centre, giving an internal ratio of 1.7 (34/20). The internal ratio is used to help calculate your FDR.

Rollout:
This is another way to measure gearing based on how far the vehicle will roll in a single revolution of the motor.

Formulas:
FDR = Spur size / Pinion size * Internal Ratio
Rollout = Pinion * Tyre diameter * Pi / Spur
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Old 08-07-2012, 07:57 AM   #80
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Marv and Nubie, thanks a lot.

Sorry but i don'nt understand what is the function of this capacitor!

Thanks a lot.

Marcelo
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Old 08-07-2012, 08:25 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARCELO CAMPOS View Post
Marv and Nubie, thanks a lot.

Sorry but i don'nt understand what is the function of this capacitor!

Thanks a lot.

Marcelo
http://www.venom-group.com/Store/Glitch-Buster

FROM VENOM's web site =

Quote:
Atomik Glitch Buster

The Venom Glitch Buster is designed for use with todayŐs high power brushless systems to smooth out voltage dropouts in the Battery Eliminator Circuit (BEC). The Glitch Buster helps to smooth out the ŇbumpsÓ in the voltage and gives constant output, keeping your motor from cutting out and providing consistent power to the steering servo. This capacitor is pre-wired with a universal servo connector and simply plugs into an unused port on your receiver. Venom also recommends this with the use of 2.4GHz radio systems to prevent brown outs of the receiver due to voltage dropouts.

When I upgraded to a digital servo my receiver (servo) glitched, the car went left and smacked a steel pipe virtully head-on.

After installing the capcitor I have had no glitches.

Hope that helps.
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Old 08-07-2012, 08:58 AM   #82
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Can i use it with the original HPI receptor and servo?

Marcelo
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Old 08-07-2012, 09:35 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARCELO CAMPOS View Post
Can i use it with the original HPI receptor and servo?
Marcelo
Yes.


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Old 08-07-2012, 11:41 AM   #84
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Default TOUGH RACING - Replacement belts for the S2

Another S2 owner has just contributed some of his knowledge to "the belt wear" issue in the RC Universe forum...

The poster states in his post, "Try a Tough Racing belt on the rear,I find much stronger!" and, "Tough Racing from South Korea,kevlar/rubber belt. Makes stock belts look like junk which many are!"

The cost is $4.90 USD for each front or rear + shipping AND they accept PayPal.

You will have to copy & paste the url in your browser address bar = a direct link does not work.

TOUGH RACING - http://www.toughracing.com

Once there - SEARCH HPI belt / you're looking for #87006 (front) & #87007 (rear)

Last edited by Marv; 08-12-2012 at 09:02 AM.
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Old 08-07-2012, 12:18 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARCELO CAMPOS View Post
Marv and Nubie, thanks a lot.

Sorry but i don'nt understand what is the function of this capacitor!

Thanks a lot.

Marcelo
A high power servo can draw enough power through the receiver that it can cause the receiver to brown out or glitch. The capacitor "saves up" some power to try and prevent this from happening. Think of the capacitor as a very small battery that gives the receiver a boost when it's having a hard time keeping up with the draw from the servo.
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Old 08-08-2012, 08:44 AM   #86
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Hi guys.

Thank you very mucho for the informations. I buyed the capacitors but i don't have the connectors yet!

Well, actually i have three HPI Sprint chassis:

a) my first RC car is a used HPI Sprint 2 RTR full carbon chassis with a EZ-RUN 13,5T combo (motor and ESC). I do not regret the purchase but this car don't accept every bodies. For example: i build a Dodge Stratus HPI 7416 200mm body and when i put all together the front fenders was too high if you take the wheel as a reference. It's look like a offroad. After i look every inch of the body and the chassis i found the problem: after removing the front body posts i can see that the front shock tower is too high and did not allow a good fitting; body / chassis! So for this kind of chassis (full carbon) bodies with curved front ends does not fit well...For a vintage body it's ok!!!
This car is stopped for maintenance, i'll re-progaming the ESC, change the shocks and mke a super cleaning!


b) my second car is a new and totally original HPI Sprint 2 Sport. It's a wonderful car. I only do a simple change: i don't like the original body; a Skyline GTR and i put a brazilian body: Chevrolet Opala coupe 75! I don't have pics here....But the car is out of this world...I love this chassis...

c) my third car is a biiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiig project. I'll use a Protoform body, J71, because i want to make a vintage Trans-am. Your tips are very helpful todo this project. I don't have all the parts...It'll be a huge project and my best racing car....

Sorry about this replay Marv but i'll need all help to do this car.

So, ceramic bearings what do you think?
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Old 08-14-2012, 06:40 AM   #87
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Thumbs up More Good Voodoo on RC Tech

Practical Guide to Touring car Settings by artwork has some good voodoo for the what, how and why on car settings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by artwork View Post
I decided a few weeks ago to start building a document that can help explain the practical uses and effects of changes on a touring car. I see so many questions from simple to complex in almost every thread, but most of them are very repetitive. I spent some time researching each concept in the document and also solicited input from numerous sources, as well as my own personal experiences. I tried to focus on the practical changes and stayed away from theory and physics as that is covered very well by many other people. I think it is great to understand the physics of roll center for example, but when it comes right down to it...people just want to know how to fix their problem and not need the level of detail required to complete their senior thesis.

I am sure that as with anything posted in these forums that some people will disagree with the concepts and how they are explained, but keep in mind that everyone's experience is different and this guide is meant to help people that may not have as firm of an understanding as someone else.

I hope people find this useful and helpful to understanding the concepts required to make their cars work better on the surface they drive it. If people like it I will continue to improve it over time as new tuning options become available. But for now...I think this will be a good start!

Touring car settings v1.1.pdf
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Old 08-17-2012, 02:21 AM   #88
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Exclamation Carpet Setup For The S2 From R/CTech Memeber 2Xs

This info should be helpful to begin with setting up the S2 for VTA Racing -

Many (belated) thanks to 2xs for his post.


From August 2010: R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road VTA tuning Q&A
VTA tuning Q&A

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2xs View Post
OK Darkside here is my setup. This is for a small,50x30, track. This is a work in progress, but it hooks up well on our track. I have the CF chassis and shock towers installed. The main chassis was a huge improvement over the plastic chassis.

FRONT
Ride Height - 6mm
Droop - 2mm over ride height
Caster - 4*
Camber - -1.5*
Toe - 0*
Upper control arm - E
Shock location - 3B
Springs - HPI Pink (15.2#)
Oil/Piston - Trinity30/2 hole

REAR
Ride Height - 6mm
Droop - 1.5mm over ride height
Camber - -1*
Toe - -3*
Upper control arm - C2
Shock location - 3B
Springs - HPI Orange (12.1#)
Oil/Piston - Trinity30/2 hole
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2xs View Post
Made a couple changes to this setup and the car is a blast to drive now. Changes are in RED

FRONT
Ride Height - 5mm
Droop - 1.5mm over ride height
Caster - 4*
Camber - -1.5*
Toe - 0*
Upper control arm - E
Shock location - 3B
Springs - HPI Pink (15.2#)
Oil/Piston - Trinity30/2 hole

REAR
Ride Height - 5mm
Droop - 1.5mm over ride height
Camber - -1*
Toe - -3*
Upper control arm - C2
Shock location - 3A
Springs - HPI Orange (12.1#)
Oil/Piston - Trinity30/2 hole

Last edited by Marv; 08-18-2012 at 09:14 PM.
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Old 08-17-2012, 04:20 AM   #89
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Default BELT & TIRE TIP

BELT & TIRE TIP

It may or may not be common knowledge to remove your tires or to set the car on a stand so the tires hang freely when your car isn't in use = so the tires don't develop flat spots.

Here's one I didn't know until now - Relax the belt tensioners after use.

Recently, the ambient temps in my humble abode rose as high as 100 for several days running.

Although my tires were off - my belts were still under full tension = they stretched.

I now have two hardly used belts that are now stretched almost past use.

Last edited by Marv; 09-27-2012 at 07:28 PM.
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Old 08-18-2012, 07:43 AM   #90
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Default CHASSIS REVEAL

My S2 RTR is now ARR...

There's a few minor tinks and the itintial setup adjustments to make & then it's judgement day.






Last edited by Marv; 09-27-2012 at 07:34 PM.
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