R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-18-2014, 01:07 AM   #751
Tech Rookie
 
snailman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 13
Default uhmmmm

So i just put those measurements into the front end of my car and the amont of toe out and positive camber is ridiculous.
Will have to set up my toe and camber links but my ackerman and steering tie rods were pretty good!
snailman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-2014, 09:33 AM   #752
Tech Apprentice
 
WaftyCrank's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Windermere, Cumbria
Posts: 50
Default

Just checked my own measurements at home and they differ to the ones stated too Dale.
These are my measurements below, hopefully someone else may be able to clarify on their own set up too

TOE LINKS: 1.41"
FRONT CAMBER LINKS: 1.466"
REAR CAMBER LINKS: 1.465"
SERVO LINK: 1.82"
ACKERMAN LINK: 1.920"
__________________
http://www.youtube.com/user/TuccoBenedicto
WaftyCrank is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2014, 02:50 PM   #753
Tech Rookie
 
snailman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 13
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WaftyCrank View Post
Just checked my own measurements at home and they differ to the ones stated too Dale.
These are my measurements below, hopefully someone else may be able to clarify on their own set up too

TOE LINKS: 1.41"
FRONT CAMBER LINKS: 1.466"
REAR CAMBER LINKS: 1.465"
SERVO LINK: 1.82"
ACKERMAN LINK: 1.920"
Looks like that will pull my camber back towards the negative scale but the toe is very close to what was previously mentioned.
snailman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2014, 03:13 AM   #754
Tech Rookie
 
snailman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 13
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WaftyCrank View Post
Just checked my own measurements at home and they differ to the ones stated too Dale.
These are my measurements below, hopefully someone else may be able to clarify on their own set up too

TOE LINKS: 1.41"
FRONT CAMBER LINKS: 1.466"
REAR CAMBER LINKS: 1.465"
SERVO LINK: 1.82"
ACKERMAN LINK: 1.920"
Those camber link measurements are just about spot on!
very happy with that setup.
Thanks alot Wafty!
snailman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2014, 05:19 AM   #755
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 31
Default

Hi, thanks for the great thread!

Now to my question, me and a friend both bought used sprint 2 flux, mine had been used for drifting and had a locked rear diff, I got a new rear diff to make it grippier.

We have the same tires on both cars, but they behave very very differently.

If he is going fast and coming up to a corner lets off the gas and let it roll he has great grip throughout the corner and his car is grippier overall.

if i come up to a corner and try to let it roll it will lose grip and start sliding all over the place, to get it through the corners I have to have my finger on the throttle and not let up, then I have decent grip but nothing compared to my friend.

I dont think it can just be toe-in and suspension settings that is causing this effect, maybe it is something with the diffs?

his rear diff is almost locked, while mine is loose with 1000wt oil in it.

My front diff is alot harder, ithink previous owner used grease instead of oil.

Does this make sense to anyone? does my friend maybe have a different diff setup that is making his get grippier when he lets go of throttle and mine has the opposite effect?

My car got alot grippier after I got rid of the locked rear diff, but I want more!
Perfer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2014, 04:27 PM   #756
Tech Master
 
boudin4evr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Natchitoches, LA
Posts: 1,765
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

thinking about getting one of these to drift with I use a tc4 now
Im afraid my lipos will not fit! they are 25mm height
If I raise the battery compartment will belt hit top of case?
__________________
Marc Richard
If it smells burnt up.. it's more than likely hot.. you don't have to touch it!
Tekin, JConcepts, TEKNO RC, AVID Bearings, Schelle Racing Products, DialedRC Hobbies formerly (VP Pro USA), MAXAMPS, Kal Gard Lubricants, Tresrey USA, Panther RC, Sweep Racing USA, Team INTEGY, Hy-Traction Juice, Fioroni, SMC Batteries
boudin4evr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2014, 04:22 AM   #757
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 31
Default

I raised the battery compartment by putting shims under the posts holding it, it worked fine and I use 25-27mm lipos, the belt rubs abit but havent had any problems so far. Have maybe 10 batteries in it.

I also think I found out why it was acting so weird, the 15t pulley driving the belt for the front wheels was worn so much that it must have been slipping like crazy. I ordered a new one and hope it will fix my handling issues.
Perfer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2014, 09:17 AM   #758
Tech Master
 
boudin4evr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Natchitoches, LA
Posts: 1,765
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

what is the difference between the orange aluminum parts car and the purple?
__________________
Marc Richard
If it smells burnt up.. it's more than likely hot.. you don't have to touch it!
Tekin, JConcepts, TEKNO RC, AVID Bearings, Schelle Racing Products, DialedRC Hobbies formerly (VP Pro USA), MAXAMPS, Kal Gard Lubricants, Tresrey USA, Panther RC, Sweep Racing USA, Team INTEGY, Hy-Traction Juice, Fioroni, SMC Batteries
boudin4evr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2014, 03:54 PM   #759
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 14
Default

I've read through a lot of this thread... very helpful. I plan to start working on the steering slop soon. I see a few recommendations for servos, but was wondering if the HPI SB-5 or SF-50 would be anywhere close to some of the ones mentioned? I see that they're quite a bit cheaper so I'm guessing not. I just want something better than the stock SF-1 that comes with the S2 RTR but am not quite willing to jump up that high in price. $25-$40 sounds like a good range, and bolt-in sounds good too.
Ludachris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2014, 05:31 AM   #760
Tech Addict
 
ViperZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Saskatoon, SK. Canada
Posts: 625
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

One of these days I need to get through this thread and apply some of the good mods to my Sprint 2....

Anyone care to post a summary recap?
__________________
*
Who races a Mazda Sedan...? Honestly...? :D
ViperZ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2014, 05:55 AM   #761
Tech Champion
 
ThePanda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,914
Trader Rating: 64 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Perfer View Post
Hi, thanks for the great thread!

Now to my question, me and a friend both bought used sprint 2 flux, mine had been used for drifting and had a locked rear diff, I got a new rear diff to make it grippier.

We have the same tires on both cars, but they behave very very differently.

If he is going fast and coming up to a corner lets off the gas and let it roll he has great grip throughout the corner and his car is grippier overall.

if i come up to a corner and try to let it roll it will lose grip and start sliding all over the place, to get it through the corners I have to have my finger on the throttle and not let up, then I have decent grip but nothing compared to my friend.

I dont think it can just be toe-in and suspension settings that is causing this effect, maybe it is something with the diffs?

his rear diff is almost locked, while mine is loose with 1000wt oil in it.

My front diff is alot harder, ithink previous owner used grease instead of oil.

Does this make sense to anyone? does my friend maybe have a different diff setup that is making his get grippier when he lets go of throttle and mine has the opposite effect?

My car got alot grippier after I got rid of the locked rear diff, but I want more!
If you gently roll through the corners you want oil in both diffs, and lighter in the rear. If you power through the corners you want either a spool (locked) dif in the front, and a light oil weight in the rear. I would go with 2000-5000 rear, and >100000 front. Higher front weights or spools give great out of corner drive
For optimal performance you don't want grease. It provides very little diff action.
For traction driving a locked rear will be horrible.
Quote:
Originally Posted by boudin4evr View Post
what is the difference between the orange aluminum parts car and the purple?
Just the anodization color.
ThePanda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2014, 05:57 AM   #762
Tech Champion
 
ThePanda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 6,914
Trader Rating: 64 (100%+)
Default

Probably the number one upgrade that everyone should do is swap out all the self tapping screws for a basic metric machine set.
ThePanda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2014, 07:38 AM   #763
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 31
Default

I replaced the pulley driving the front tires and put some diff oiln in the front diff (80.000) and run 2000 in the rear, the front diff was almost bone dry :s

these 2 things fixed my handling problems and now its alot better. Only thing now is understeer but I guess a perfect handling car is impossible
Perfer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2014, 11:35 AM   #764
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 14
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WaftyCrank View Post
When I bought the s1 steering set HPI-86005 its was 12 and in reality it was the mainly the stand off I wanted it for, and some of the shims.
I added the parts from this set... http://www.asiatees.com/display?HPI-...4%203&id=44106 which had the right bearings to match the alloy gpm parts I already had as well as the stock parts I have on my second s2. Below is a picture of it the oem parts. I went overkill on the bearings but I wanted the height right...

However, a mate of mine was able to use just the rs4 set with the standoff inverted and it worked out well too, although I do recall him saying he had to shorten the larger shims to make it butt up against his top deck nicely, but it wasn't a major mod. I will ask him to send me a photo of it to show you as it will save you 20 dollars =)

edit.... Added the pictures of my friends set up using JUST the rs4 parts. As you can see he has chopped into his topdeck to accommodate the larger stand offs and shaved the lower shim shorter. I added pics of OEM and with the alloy parts too.
I found one of those S1 steering kits on eBay. Is the RS4 steering assembly required for the S2 steering set to be installed or will they work independently of each other? Just trying to see if I can wait on one or if I'll have to buy them together.
Ludachris is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2014, 07:12 AM   #765
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 14
Default

There are some posts in here that talk about the RS4 3 Steering assembly working with the Sprint 2. And someone confirmed that in a review on this page:
http://www.asiatees.com/display?id=1...&model=RS4%203

But I was wondering if the Nitro RS4 3 steering assembly will also work:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GPM-HPI-Nitr...-/271629367857

The eBay listing is from someone in the US, so I'd get it faster. Just want to make sure they're the same in terms of fitment.
Ludachris is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Tags
hpi, sprint 2


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:15 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net