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Old 07-07-2014, 10:30 PM   #736
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As I haven't got my Sprint 2 yet, I've been studying the manual and noticed that on the A-Arms near where they attach there is a 10mm grub screw that screws through the A-Arm and protudes 2.5mm on the rear, but no mention of how far they protude on the front A-Arms. Can anyone tell me what these are for. It looks like they limit how far down the A-Arms go. TIA
I think these adjust droop after doing a bit of research. Would/should the front droop be adjusted to the same 2.5mm as the rear?

Found this excellent reading for setup. It is a PDF file so may take a bit to load. brccc.co.za/Info/Main%20Chassis%20Setup%20Guide.pdf
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Old 07-08-2014, 02:43 PM   #737
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They are droop screws, they basically control ride height (the amount the suspension arms extend down, or droop below the chassis) they should be very close to the same height, but don't by any means have to be set the same front to rear, just left to right.
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:16 PM   #738
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Originally Posted by eospro View Post
As I haven't got my Sprint 2 yet, I've been studying the manual and noticed that on the A-Arms near where they attach there is a 10mm grub screw that screws through the A-Arm and protudes 2.5mm on the rear, but no mention of how far they protude on the front A-Arms. Can anyone tell me what these are for. It looks like they limit how far down the A-Arms go. TIA
They are the droop screws, they help you adjust how low the A-arms go, which tie into the control of weight transfer of the car.

There are a few setup guides available that are really good
RC Crew Chief - RC Crew Chief Software
Learn Setup.com - by Martin Crisp - http://learnsetup.com/
Alex Hagberg has a new app for Car setup too, i remember seeing a few websites as well.
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Old 07-11-2014, 10:35 PM   #739
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Got my sprint 2 Flux yesterday and just finished the belt lift. Fitted the Spektrum receiver and binded the DX3C, set it up to get it going for a test run and notice that slightly pulling on the throttle the car starts off at about 10kph, and appears to accelerate smoothly from there. Previous cars that i have had (brushless as well) could be driven at a snails pace when just touching the throttle.I dont know why this car jumps straight to 10kph. Does anyone have any ideas. I also noticed that where the front belt goes under the top plate it rubs (only just) on a post, and even more so without the belt lift. Anyone else notice this? TIA

Last edited by eospro; 07-11-2014 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 07-12-2014, 04:57 AM   #740
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Got my sprint 2 Flux yesterday and just finished the belt lift. Fitted the Spektrum receiver and binded the DX3C, set it up to get it going for a test run and notice that slightly pulling on the throttle the car starts off at about 10kph, and appears to accelerate smoothly from there. Previous cars that i have had (brushless as well) could be driven at a snails pace when just touching the throttle.I dont know why this car jumps straight to 10kph. Does anyone have any ideas.
Did you program your ESC or just bind the new rx? I am guessing your throttle range needs calibrating is all. The belts do rub a bit as stock, the kevlar belts from Tough Racing are well worth their money imo... http://toughracing.com/
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Old 07-12-2014, 06:45 AM   #741
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It was setup with the original HPI transmitter, because the DX3C receiver wasn't getting any power. Now it is working i will try to setup the ESC again with the DX3C and see what happens.
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Old 07-15-2014, 08:52 AM   #742
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help i have new sprint 2 flux i have problem with my motor after 15mins of playing it become very hot i m running 7.4v 5000mah lipo ang all stock 90spur 23pinion. y? help please
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Old 07-15-2014, 01:34 PM   #743
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help i have new sprint 2 flux i have problem with my motor after 15mins of playing it become very hot i m running 7.4v 5000mah lipo ang all stock 90spur 23pinion. y? help please
How hot? Do you have any means of measuring it?

Also, if its a brand new car, the diffs and motor can be a bit stiff to start with, which causes the drive to run less efficiently which causes the motor to strain and get hotter so it may be worth breaking it in a bit before worrying too much.

One thing worth mentioning is how good HPI are when it comes to returning faulty goods. I had a stock motor problem, sent it back with the ESC and within 5 days had a new motor and ESC foc.
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Old 07-20-2014, 02:33 PM   #744
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Maybe off topic, but does anybody know if you can use the front Falken Porsche tires on a regular touring car wheel? I can modify a standard touring car wheel and make it wider, but are the inside / outside diameters not workable? I think the the standard touring car wheel is 2.1" while the Falken is listed as 1.9". I quess that's about a 5mm difference? Has anybody tried this? Any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Got some - they fit the rim fine...just wider...

Last edited by jdob; 07-31-2014 at 04:47 PM. Reason: Update
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Old 08-10-2014, 10:33 PM   #745
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Great thread...

I'd like to add one more tip:
The original sprint 1 had a much nicer steering assembly. On that one the left side is sandwiched between the chassis and top deck (the pivot post where it rotates runs all the way from chassis to top deck, holding the assembly firmly) so it does not have the problem the sprint 2 assembly has (because sprint2 bearing has no support other than the lower chassis, with no upper support). You can still get them new on ebay. A few months ago they were on towerhobbies too, but it's no longer the case.
Part # is HPI 86005
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDHR8&P=7

here's the steering assembly exploded view for the sprint1 in case you're wondering, and a picture of that chassis. You can see how it fits in there. Part is a direct fit to the sprint2 chassis. In fact, sprint 2 uses a lot of the sprint 1 parts.

cheers all
hi I need the manual for the sprint 1 where can I get it????
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Old 08-14-2014, 07:08 PM   #746
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hi I need the manual for the sprint 1 where can I get it????
Try email HPI for a link, I haven't luck find one for you.
The links on page 1 are dead, likely due to a recent major site update. They also apparently haven't reupload all their old kits'n stuff somwhere.
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Old 08-14-2014, 08:20 PM   #747
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hi I need the manual for the sprint 1 where can I get it????
For the Sprint 2 Sport, or Flux

http://www.hpiracing.com/instructions/106165
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Old 08-15-2014, 05:01 PM   #748
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Ok guys, being the eager beaver that I am/was I never bothered to write down the measurements between each tie rod end when I got it a couple years ago.

I'm after the measurements from middle of tie rod end to the opposite tie rod end middle. There should be 2 up the rear end of the car and 6 from the front end of the car.
Anywhere there is a turnbuckle I'm chasing those measurements.

Thankyou so much if someone could take the time to do this for me. Just need an approximate stock setup!
Dale.
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Old 08-17-2014, 04:09 AM   #749
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Here you go..

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Originally Posted by Marv View Post



20/20 Hindsight voodoo

For those of you that may have forgotten to take and write down the measurements of your ball cup/link assemblies before you swapped over to the RPM Ball Cups - this may help...

From my notes before I took mine apart.

These are center to center - measured at the center of the cups - for each link.
Measured in INCHES.

The sign " following a number/numbers denotes INCH/INCHES.
The sign ' following a number/numbers denotes foot/feet.

They probably haven't taught this in schools for quite some time.

Measured center to center either inside or outside of the cups.

Attachment 982278

Attachment 982279

TOE LINKS: 1.40"
FRONT CAMBER LINKS: 1.585"
REAR CAMBER LINKS: 1.5"
SERVO LINK: 1.82"
ACKERMAN LINK: 1.915"
- I reccommend that you LEAVE THIS ONE ALONE - Leave the OEM cups on this one = It gives you some slop that is acceptable (IMO) after you do the zip lock bag shim fix to tighten these balls cups found in post #16 of this thread.

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Old 08-17-2014, 02:58 PM   #750
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Thanks a bunch Wafty.
I did do a search for it because I had a feeling I had seen it somewhere before.
Obviously didn't have a womans look.
Dale.
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