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Old 02-28-2013, 11:08 AM   #406
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Originally Posted by ninjlao View Post
Sorry for the confusion. the shocks are stock, I just changed the weight of oil in it. Im running 40wt all the way around.

The springs fit perfect into the shocks. (perches)

The tires Im using are Sorex 36's. I dont know if it matters but Im running an HPI Silvia S15 body.

I have every single spring from the HPI Pro 4, plus every Hotbodies hara spring, as well as Team associated, so I have a plethora of springs to choose from. I was reading somewhere that this spring rate setup was a good base to start with, which doesnt work at all for my track. The stock spring setup def felt better.


Where are you racing that the weather is 92 for the tires you're using?
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Old 02-28-2013, 11:35 AM   #407
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Where are you racing that the weather is 92 for the tires you're using?
Sorry I misread it. Im running on the 32's. LOL. I have a set of old 36's on there when I store the car.
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Old 02-28-2013, 11:46 AM   #408
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Sorry I misread it. Im running on the 32's. LOL. I have a set of old 36's on there when I store the car.

That's still a warm weather tire...

Is that the "preferred" tire for the track you race on?
Is that what everyone else is using?


(IMAO) Your springs are too stiff =
Try LINEAR rate springs - NOT progressive rate springs

I run an aluminum chassis and upper deck and an armored body =
My S2 is way heavier (1655gr race ready w/current body & tires for the indoor TC class I'm running in) than yours and I don't run heavy springs

My USVTA setup is heavier still =

I tried heavier springs and my car just got fricken squirrelly -
I even preloaded the 14# rears (w/the 12#-ers up front) and that only made matters worse...

A good start point (again IMAO) =
12# front
14# rear

That's what I'm currently running on a texture, cushion vinyl floor indoors (almost like asphalt if you think about it) and I still PUSH once the Paragon wears off which is damned quick...

Softer up front =
Keeps more traction up front

As I recall (And I could be mistaken) =
One of the guys took the floor temp last week and it was 64

The "trick" tire on this particular indoor track is (supposed to be) the Sweeps OG Spec w/soft pink insert and flex rims =
http://www.sweepracingusa.com/110-Sedan_c_23.html

And Paragon Ground Effects Traction Compound

I run a different tire (Solaris) due to shallow pocket syndrome...

Hara Spring Rate Chart?


Last edited by Marv; 03-11-2013 at 03:54 PM.
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Old 02-28-2013, 12:05 PM   #409
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Yes that is the preferred tire we race on. But I will try the OG spec anyways. I have tested a few different tires out. I have even tried out the Yokomo Hot Laps Soft compound on there and it wasnt that bad either. Im still a noob so I cant really feel that much of a difference between the tires in such fine increments in tire compounds.

I will go for the premounted option the tires seem pretty cheap.

I will also try out those spring rates. Im going assume the #'s you gave me are the lbs/in numbers correct?

What do you have your front toe settings at?

I had it at zero, and that may be one of my problems for the understeer. I feel like if I toed it out a little more in the front I should be able to get a tad more steering out of the thing. I will however try the spring rates you recommended me now.

I will go testing again today and see how it does.

THanks!
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Old 02-28-2013, 12:56 PM   #410
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Originally Posted by ninjlao View Post
Yes that is the preferred tire we race on. But I will try the OG spec anyways. I have tested a few different tires out. I have even tried out the Yokomo Hot Laps Soft compound on there and it wasnt that bad either. Im still a noob so I cant really feel that much of a difference between the tires in such fine increments in tire compounds.

I will go for the premounted option the tires seem pretty cheap.

I will also try out those spring rates. Im going assume the #'s you gave me are the lbs/in numbers correct?

What do you have your front toe settings at?

I had it at zero, and that may be one of my problems for the understeer. I feel like if I toed it out a little more in the front I should be able to get a tad more steering out of the thing. I will however try the spring rates you recommended me now.

I will go testing again today and see how it does.

THanks!
PM sent

Quickly =

FRONT:
Toe = 0
Camber = 1
Camber Link = C
Caster Blocks = 6 Aluminum
OEM shocks = B2
30wt oil
HPI6843 (12.7 pound) Yellow Springs

REAR:
3 Toe Hubs Aluminum
Camber = 2
Camber Link = C2
OEM Shocks = A3
30wt oil
HPI6847 (14.8 pound) Blue Springs


Best thing for US noobs is to ask and watch the non-noobs -
Actually, I'm a re-noob ---

Once I get my setup sheet updated I'll post it + a blank (after I work one up)


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Old 02-28-2013, 01:31 PM   #411
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ninjlao View Post
Sorry I misread it. Im running on the 32's. LOL. I have a set of old 36's on there when I store the car.
TIPS:

When you "store" it =
Put it on a chassis stand so that the wheels drop free =
No load on shocks or tires

ALSO Loosen your belt tensioner(s) =
No load or stretch on the belt(s)

And switch to the Korean kevlar belts =
They last longer and are half the price of HPI belts

If you use foam body mount disks =
Take the body off when you store the car so that the foam can return to shape
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:23 AM   #412
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So I tested the new setup with the exact rates you recommended yesterday. The car ran awesome. It was very predictable, even for a nub like myself. The car was really controllable, and did everything I asked it to.

I feel like if I do a little bit more tuning of the suspension, I should be able to squeeze out a little bit more cornering speed out of the chassis.


My next step will be to fix the steering slop.
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:31 PM   #413
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Good to hear!

Last edited by Marv; 03-01-2013 at 12:45 PM.
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:09 PM   #414
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Default have queston on belts

were can i find kevlar belts for my hpi sprint 2
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:07 AM   #415
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Exclamation KEVLAR BELTS FOR S2

REAR BELT = http://www.toughracing.com/zc126d/in...oducts_id=2036


FRONT BELT = http://www.toughracing.com/zc126d/in...oducts_id=2037
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Old 03-02-2013, 04:42 PM   #416
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hey there @MARV or anyone can answer this for me please!... i have a question for you, my cup joints on my sprint 2 drift keeps getting chewed up by my dogbones....now i went and the universal dogbone and installed theose and it seems like a few times a month the cv cylinder that keeps the univ. dogbone in place slips out and apparently the univ. dogbone is getting chewed up too, where the cv cylinder is making the hole that it sits in wider?....anything that you can think of to remedy this problem?...either for the stock cup joints or the universal one....and if it helps i have a front one-way installed...and sadly enough that front cup joint on the one-way is showing signs of chewing...please help
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Old 03-03-2013, 03:02 PM   #417
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Default DIFF CUP DAMAGE

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Originally Posted by lowlevel21 View Post
hey there @MARV or anyone can answer this for me please!... i have a question for you, my cup joints on my sprint 2 drift keeps getting chewed up by my dogbones....now i went and the universal dogbone and installed theose and it seems like a few times a month the cv cylinder that keeps the univ. dogbone in place slips out and apparently the univ. dogbone is getting chewed up too, where the cv cylinder is making the hole that it sits in wider?....anything that you can think of to remedy this problem?...either for the stock cup joints or the universal one....and if it helps i have a front one-way installed...and sadly enough that front cup joint on the one-way is showing signs of chewing...please help

Ready or not ---

The steel "pins" in the dog bones and CVD axle shafts are harder steel than the diff cups -

IMAO - 99% of the problem =
Punching it from a dead stop, repeatedly...
Jamming on the brakes, repeatedly...
Ill fitting parts (too much slop)...

All of these are a recipe for unnecessary and premature wear/damage


I had the same problem(s) when I first started racing my HPI Nitro RS4 back in 1999
Unless you learn trigger control =
Replacing the parts just becomes an expensive routine


My humble suggestions would be to:
1) Stop punching the throttle and jamming on the brakes
2) Replace the worn parts
3) Eliminate the slop by doing the appropriate mods / fixes =
Diff shimming = http://www.rctech.net/forum/11400616-post149.html
Axle/Diff Cup Springs = http://www.rctech.net/forum/11311293-post124.html
4) Axle shimming (may not be posted yet...?)
5) Stop punching the throttle and jamming on the brakes



As far a the "cv cylinder that keeps the univ. dogbone in place" slipping out =
There's a fix for that =
"BULLETPROOFING" = http://www.hpiracing.com/walkthroughs/rebuild-cvd.htm

I hope that helps -

NOT MY CAR
HPI Sprint 2 Mods - Making a silk purse from a sow's ear.-nl28943.jpg
HPI Sprint 2 Mods - Making a silk purse from a sow's ear.-yw66911.jpg
HPI Sprint 2 Mods - Making a silk purse from a sow's ear.-yt61465.jpg
HPI Sprint 2 Mods - Making a silk purse from a sow's ear.-ge95168.jpg




Last edited by Marv; 03-03-2013 at 05:03 PM.
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Old 03-04-2013, 08:21 AM   #418
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marv View Post
Ready or not ---

The steel "pins" in the dog bones and CVD axle shafts are harder steel than the diff cups -

IMAO - 99% of the problem =
Punching it from a dead stop, repeatedly...
Jamming on the brakes, repeatedly...
Ill fitting parts (too much slop)...

All of these are a recipe for unnecessary and premature wear/damage


I had the same problem(s) when I first started racing my HPI Nitro RS4 back in 1999
Unless you learn trigger control =
Replacing the parts just becomes an expensive routine








Hey there marv thanks for the reply...but i think i regret to mention that i'm a drifter, so letting go of the throttle and accelerating after a corner is kinda my thing (throttle control) lol...and i have done the diff shimmering almost immediately when i got my s2, because i noticed that slop issue early on....but the bullet proofing i never thought of that but i will look into it!....also i remember seeing that theres a company that makes dogbone "rubber coverings" that go over the ends of the dogbones to eliminate the wear and tear on the cups....have you heard of this part?...i'm not sure if its RPM who makes them or not...



Edited: I found them marv, the part i was refering too are called shaft cushions...since i'm not as of yet allowed to post url's...you or anyone can look them up
there called "3Racing Universal Shaft Cusion"...there designed for a TA05IFS/TB03 chassis, but i'm wondering if they would fit ....if they do then i think that will eliminate alot of drivers problems when it comes to this issue!...let me know

Last edited by lowlevel21; 03-04-2013 at 08:41 AM. Reason: additional info
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Old 03-04-2013, 12:56 PM   #419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowlevel21 View Post
Hey there marv thanks for the reply...but i think i regret to mention that i'm a drifter, so letting go of the throttle and accelerating after a corner is kinda my thing (throttle control) lol...and i have done the diff shimmering almost immediately when i got my s2, because i noticed that slop issue early on....

Then I suppose it's just a matter of use and routine replacement of worn parts...

My diff cups aren't showing any wear (yet)...
But then again, I probably don't use my S2 nearly as often as you may use yours =
I've been just racing on an indoor track (sparse racing schedule) and not out doors...

I also use the spring mod =
Which (IMAO) helps stabilize the axles some...


but the bullet proofing i never thought of that but i will look into it!....also i remember seeing that theres a company that makes dogbone "rubber coverings" that go over the ends of the dogbones to eliminate the wear and tear on the cups....have you heard of this part?...i'm not sure if its RPM who makes them or not...


Edited: I found them marv, the part i was refering too are called shaft cushions...since i'm not as of yet allowed to post url's...you or anyone can look them up
there called "3Racing Universal Shaft Cusion"...there designed for a TA05IFS/TB03 chassis, but i'm wondering if they would fit ....if they do then i think that will eliminate alot of drivers problems when it comes to this issue!...let me know
I've seen shaft cushions, those may be the same ones =
Too small for the S2...

But - If you know a machinist and someone that does micro-welding you might be able to Frankenstein an axle/cup combo to use those shaft cushions...

3Racing Universal Shaft Cushion

Or I suppose you could contact 3Racing direct and ask them if they plan to make the shaft cushions for the S2...

Let us know how you work it out.




Last edited by Marv; 03-04-2013 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 03-04-2013, 06:00 PM   #420
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Hey guys,

New Sprint 2 Sport owner here.

I'm racing on a parking lot at my LHS and I need a good setup. Track setup has about half technical, half straight aways. I'm only losing ground in the technical parts.

What settings, springs, do you guys recommend?

Edit!! Never mind. I just read back and realized that setup posted is basically for asphalt. Ill start with that.

Last edited by Bryan29; 03-04-2013 at 06:44 PM.
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