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Old 01-25-2013, 05:58 PM   #331
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How much trouble have you all noticed with the belts?.....and I've heard rocks and pebbles can get caught in the belts and gears, etc..
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Old 01-25-2013, 06:25 PM   #332
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My first week of owning it I caught a rock in the rear belt, it lodged between the belt, diff, and shock towers... Stretched my belt but I adjusted the tension on it and am still running the belt, I got it for Christmas fyi.

As a side note, these coupled with spacers... Will it work?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...P?I=LXBPDZ&P=8
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Old 01-26-2013, 04:59 AM   #333
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3 of us at work got sprint 2's a few moths ago and one broke a rear belt from an object getting between the belt and the diff.
Mine broke a front belt but on mine i saw a week spot going from side to side in between the teeth before a parking lot run then it broke after a few passes and not shure what caused that flimsy weak spot.

Our cars being run in a parking lot and not on a nice surface clean track, i think will cause "us" some extra maintenance but we are new to this and have caused ourselves some maintenance from being newbees and crashing

we now have spare belts.
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Old 01-26-2013, 05:05 AM   #334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marv View Post
I used a different body post set and came off the top of the shock tower

I'll see if I can't find / get some pictures and part numbers

Those 13mm wheel spacers a couple of posts back will work for the Willys

BUT you have to open up the axle hole in you rims to 5mm to accommodate the BARREL NUTS that is used on the axles


i ordered those 13mm wideners you had the link to

seems like the parma body wheel wells center to center are just a scosh longer than an hpi body so i have to do a bit of adjusting to get the willys body to sit just right front to rear and hieght on the chassis.

to bad they dont make a wider wheel for the rear that could make the willys look tubbed out and the wheel diameters front and rear the same due to the 4wd set up. (maybe they do and i havent found them yet)
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Old 01-26-2013, 09:49 AM   #335
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PEBBLES & ROCKS

Keep a close watch on your pulleys =
Front, rear and the smaller main shaft drive pulleys =
If a pebble/rock gets jammed up =
You could tear up these plastic pulleys

The main shaft drive pulleys can be upgraded to aluminum
The diff pulleys =
Replace the diff case(s)


You could use a leaf blower to clear your driving area before hand...

You could duct tape the chassis cavities

Or use window screen & Shoo Goo

But the wheels will still spit pebbles & rocks up into the car workings

digitalsmithy went one step further =




Belts

The Korean Kevlar belts are the way to go for durability and price
The link is in this thread (somewhere)


41 Willys

Consider using the HPI Vintage wheels & tires =
These are larger in diameter and width (rear) than standard TC wheels & tires =
It will look nicer and you put more rubber down


You can fudge the body better with the Vintage wheels & tires
to match the wheel base
An you could "rake" the rear one or two holes as well

RJ SPEED makes a 40 Ford and other 1/0th scale classics
On the 40 the wheel wells are undefined by ridges molded in like the Willys =
It's easier to adjust for the wheel base
And you don't need the wideners
You can use the RPM 6mm hex nuts or aluminum 6mm hex nuts to stand the wheels out further
But don't go beyond the 6mm =
You'll lose thread precious contact with the nylon locks in the wheel nuts
Scroll down about 4/5 of the page =

http://www.rccarkings.net/bodies.htm


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Old 01-26-2013, 01:01 PM   #336
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Marv, that car in the above photo looks interesting with the debris shield protecting the rear mechanical area. Plus......I'm sure you all have noticed the HPI VAPOR brushless ESC looks like a re-badged castle creations sidewinder.......which is probably a good thing.


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Old 01-26-2013, 01:33 PM   #337
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Thumbs up ADDING WEIGHT

Good link to TUNGSTEN (Pinewood Derby) WEIGHTS =
TUNGSTEN is heavier than LEAD size wise =

U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2


Last edited by Marv; 02-18-2013 at 05:38 PM.
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Old 01-26-2013, 02:13 PM   #338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marv View Post
Slap on a set of these / The 19mm might work (?) or those 24mm HPI ones that Slobalt7 mentioned>>>



And a set of these >>>



Waterproof your electrics and play in the snow!

Or get a set of tires and rims build them & spike them and go for one of those 10,000 lakes that Minnesota is famous for!


I'm not sure those wheels would clear the RX-7 body I've been running, but I bet it would look like the ultimate redneck drifter if I could make it work.
Might have to try the spiked tire idea. I wouldn't even have to head to the lake, my driveway is one huge, smooth, sheet of ice right now.
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:53 PM   #339
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So has anyone on here thought of doing a front motor swap or countersteering mods?
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Old 01-26-2013, 09:35 PM   #340
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I'll humbly add another..........what is the stock setup in the front and rear differentials? I think I read that one of them is a planetary gear type.....and maybe the other is a ball diff?.....but which is front? Which is rear?...
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:56 PM   #341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitro Ace View Post
I'll humbly add another..........what is the stock setup in the front and rear differentials? I think I read that one of them is a planetary gear type.....and maybe the other is a ball diff?.....but which is front? Which is rear?...

OEM HPI S2 (NOT THE DRIFT MODELS) comes with geared (planetary) diffs front & rear.

My understanding is:

Drifters generally lock the rear diff.

Grippers will either stick to the two geared diffs and use springs or heavy weight oil to tighten the front (and possibly the rear but not as much as the front), go with a ball diff up front and geared in the rear, one way diff up front and geared in the rear, one way up front and a ball diff in the rear, or lock the front diff and use either a geared diff or ball diff in the rear.

This all depends on personal driving style, preference, type, size and / or course layout of the track(s).

If I misunderstood this, I'm sure someone will chime in.

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Old 01-26-2013, 11:44 PM   #342
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both diffs in all the sprint 2 cars are gear type diffs. some of them have 2 spider gears, some have 3 spider gears (from what i can tell, purple cars have 3, orange have 2, although i could be wrong).

drifters often lock the rear diff, locking the front even in a drift car causes poor turn in. locking the rear helps the back end slide around with more control, precision and predictability. some guys like to run a one way front diff, this allows the front to freewheel under braking and coasting. stabbing the brakes with a one way acts like pulling the parking brake on a real car, itll cause the back end to kick out. this however can be very hard on the drivetrain, i watched last night as one guy stripped 3 spur gears doing this.

tuning the diffs for racing greatly depends on the track and driver.
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Old 01-27-2013, 07:57 AM   #343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marv View Post
PEBBLES & ROCKS


RJ SPEED makes a 40 Ford and other 1/0th scale classics
On the 40 the wheel wells are undefined by ridges molded in like the Willys =
It's easier to adjust for the wheel base
And you don't need the wideners
You can use the RPM 6mm hex nuts or aluminum 6mm hex nuts to stand the wheels out further
But don't go beyond the 6mm =
You'll lose thread precious contact with the nylon locks in the wheel nuts
Scroll down about 4/5 of the page =

Man now i see more bodies i would like, 33 willys, 49 ford pickup, 40 ford and 55 chevy DOH!!! have to many bodies now LOL

i look forward to getting the wideners and see how that works out on the 41 willys, i painted it Atomic rust and did preliminary body trimming but waiting for the wideners to complete the body fitting and finish trimming.

going to record some chassis measurements and do some changes, ran the willys last night for an hour or so and she was spinning out alot but i also have wiped out my front vintage tires already since the end of december so
it's time to start looking into the chassis setup and see what i can do for cleaner laps around the big parking lot we use and find a new spot for the ESC so i can zip tie it similar to that pic above, i have done 4 or so double sided tape reapairs that just dont last

i lowered the body after this pic i took when i first finished painting and cutting it out and what tread you can see on the front tires is gone now after last nights run.
Attached Thumbnails
HPI Sprint 2 Mods - Making a silk purse from a sow's ear.-41willys.jpg  
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Old 01-27-2013, 09:33 AM   #344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sharkey_t View Post
both diffs in all the sprint 2 cars are gear type diffs. some of them have 2 spider gears, some have 3 spider gears (from what i can tell, purple cars have 3, orange have 2, although i could be wrong).

drifters often lock the rear diff, locking the front even in a drift car causes poor turn in. locking the rear helps the back end slide around with more control, precision and predictability. some guys like to run a one way front diff, this allows the front to freewheel under braking and coasting. stabbing the brakes with a one way acts like pulling the parking brake on a real car, itll cause the back end to kick out. this however can be very hard on the drivetrain, i watched last night as one guy stripped 3 spur gears doing this.

tuning the diffs for racing greatly depends on the track and driver.

Here's what's in my diffs...

HPI86014






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Old 01-27-2013, 09:47 AM   #345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxThrottle View Post
Man now i see more bodies i would like, 33 willys, 49 ford pickup, 40 ford and 55 chevy DOH!!! have to many bodies now LOL

i look forward to getting the wideners and see how that works out on the 41 willys, i painted it Atomic rust and did preliminary body trimming but waiting for the wideners to complete the body fitting and finish trimming.

going to record some chassis measurements and do some changes, ran the willys last night for an hour or so and she was spinning out alot but i also have wiped out my front vintage tires already since the end of december so
it's time to start looking into the chassis setup and see what i can do for cleaner laps around the big parking lot we use and find a new spot for the ESC so i can zip tie it similar to that pic above, i have done 4 or so double sided tape reapairs that just dont last

Try using THIS stuff = http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...P?I=LXMRA9&P=8

Nasty to work with but holds like a baby ape clinging to it's mama.


i lowered the body after this pic i took when i first finished painting and cutting it out and what tread you can see on the front tires is gone now after last nights run.
The S2 is ass heavy.

Depending on your battery pack(s) =
You can move the posts in front of the battery forward to the next set of holes in the chassis, as well as moving the battery holders forward, to balance front to rear weight better.

I use ROAR approved 2S 7.4v 5000mAH hard case LiPos so I'm married to the OEM mounting holes.

Side to side weight can be adjusted with the battery holders =
Do the holder mod in this thread and you have more adjustment range.

After that =
Shocks, springs, more weight up front,camber, toe, etc...
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