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Old 12-24-2012, 02:38 AM   #211
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Thanks Marv!

What Brushless system should I get?
An Hpi Flux Vektor from a sprint 2 flux?
A Traxxas Velinion? (Hence my name)
A castle system (probably too expensive)


Too many unknowns here Vel...

Bashing?
Drifting solo?
Drifting club?
Drifting sanctioned?
Speed freaking?
Club racing?
Sanctioned racing?

Narrow it down a bit, please.


Anyways, I want a durable motor that requires little to no maintenence, smooth acceleration, under $130, and is easy to get parts for


Any brushless motor, that doesn't have cut/vented end bells, will be virtually maintenance free.
Cut/vented end bells allow more dust/debris inside (per Battman) and therefore require more cleaning/maintenance.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


Realistically speaking, you may get a decent brushless system for $130, but it isn't necessarily going to be a great brushless system.

Try to stick to the better known brands.

Longevity and after purchase service issues like warranty and replacement parts come into play.


Last edited by Marv; 12-25-2012 at 04:35 AM.
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Old 12-24-2012, 10:13 PM   #212
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If I am doing solo drifting/bashing, what are Kv's and how many KV's/Turns should I get?
What are some good motor brand and ones to stay away from?

And these fit my criteria, are they any good?
Castle Sindwinder SV2 5700kv

Duratrax Element 3900kv

LRP Super Spin

Last edited by Velineon; 12-24-2012 at 10:24 PM.
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Old 12-25-2012, 12:41 AM   #213
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Mann. The sprint two is long over due to be...due.
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Old 12-25-2012, 04:12 AM   #214
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Originally Posted by Velineon View Post
If I am doing solo drifting/bashing, what are Kv's

These should help.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


and how many KV's/Turns should I get?
What are some good motor brand and ones to stay away from?

This thread deals primarily with the short comings of the HPI Sprint 2 cars as a competitive and enjoyable car to drive and how to remedy same to render a more desirable experience and, perhaps, make the S2 a bit more competitive in a racing environment.

That's not to say that bashers, drifters, grippers and others don't visit the thread and/or contribute.

Drifting:
There are 254 Drift threads
Motor & ESC:
There are 154 threads with motor & esc in the title

As strange as it may seem, there is no "Official Bashing Thread" for anything here on R/C Tech!

Now may be a good time to grab your 15 minutes of fame...

That being said, some questions can be better answered in their relative threads by the people that have already walked a particular walk.

In plainer speak - I can't answer these questions.


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Old 12-25-2012, 04:16 AM   #215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Velineon View Post
If I am doing solo drifting/bashing, what are Kv's and how many KV's/Turns should I get?
What are some good motor brand and ones to stay away from?

And these fit my criteria, are they any good?
Castle Sindwinder SV2 5700kv

Duratrax Element 3900kv

LRP Super Spin

All are well known brands.

You may consider doing a forum search for each and a Google search as well to see if there are any outstanding issues that you should be aware of.

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Old 12-25-2012, 05:33 AM   #216
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Originally Posted by JKL1031 View Post
Mann. The sprint two is long over due to be...due.
What makes you say that? Look at my build up, a few mods and upgrades and i was racing against Xray T4s and TC6.1 cars, and competitive!

A good driver that knows how to tune his car is always competitive, regardless of what car he has, because he knows it's strengths and weaknesses.
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Old 12-25-2012, 09:21 AM   #217
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Its just that hpi themselves should have done some updates.
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Old 12-26-2012, 03:11 PM   #218
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Default NERF

My ESC/switch "nerf" -

HPI Sprint 2 Mods - Making a silk purse from a sow's ear.-dscn4553.jpgHPI Sprint 2 Mods - Making a silk purse from a sow's ear.-dscn4552.jpg

When I upgrade my ESC and radio I may move it all to the upper deck.
Depends on what works best...

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Old 12-26-2012, 07:19 PM   #219
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For my ESC switch, i put it deeper into the chassis, i need to stick my finger half an inch in between my ESC and reciever for me to be able to turn it off or on.

Marv, you mentioned you have Universals in the front, do they help with the handling if i just change to those? or i need to do all the other parts to reduce the wheel hop i have in a turn? As it is now, all my parts are nice and tight, no slop or looseness, so i think you are right, the dog bone binding could be causing that. I have to look and see my wheels are even turning that far. In a tight turn, does the inside wheel tend to get pushed out? or pushed back straight?
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Old 12-27-2012, 05:44 AM   #220
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For my ESC switch, i put it deeper into the chassis, i need to stick my finger half an inch in between my ESC and reciever for me to be able to turn it off or on.

Marv, you mentioned you have Universals in the front, do they help with the handling if i just change to those? or i need to do all the other parts to reduce the wheel hop i have in a turn? As it is now, all my parts are nice and tight, no slop or looseness, so i think you are right, the dog bone binding could be causing that. I have to look and see my wheels are even turning that far. In a tight turn, does the inside wheel tend to get pushed out? or pushed back straight?

Go back and read post #150.

Yes, the UDBs helped, but what also helped was shimming the flange pipes to the C blocks, shimming the C blocks to control arms and changing out the 4-40 ball stud on the C block to an M3 ball stud.

No more hop.

My servo saver & left crank are pretty much parallel =
I can't see that an inside turn wheel "pushes" anywhere.

However, before I did what I did in post #150 my inside wheel hopped like a three legged bunny on crack when turning tight.

That sounds like a loose fit and shim issue.
Ball stud/C block, flange pipe/C block, C block/control arm...

Any vibration, oscillation, tremor, etc., from the point of origin gets more exaggerated as it travels outward from the source.


Off topic a bit, but relevant -
My right rear took a hard hit last Friday as previously stated.
My right rear wheel now rocks quite loosely =
It appears that the axle is rocking in the inner bearing race and the bearing itself is rocking in the hub.
I won't know for sure until the new hubs get here.
The hit very well could have pushed the axle so far over that it caused the bearing to make an impression in the hub =
The bearing no longer sits flush in the hub and/or trashed the bearing.


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Old 12-27-2012, 07:19 AM   #221
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Mann. The sprint two is long over due to be...due.
Soon...
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Old 12-27-2012, 10:22 PM   #222
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Your hub is probably bent from the hit, i've seen bearings make the holes oval after a good smack.

I'll study post #150...
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Old 12-27-2012, 11:16 PM   #223
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very nice thanks for sharing
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Old 12-28-2012, 04:54 AM   #224
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Your hub is probably bent from the hit, i've seen bearings make the holes oval after a good smack.

Good to know - Thanks!
The only spare that I have is one that I took off because it too got smack a few times when I hit the rails @ Winthrop.

Yeah, it was a good smack... If my S2 had an ass it woulda been wearing it for a hat.

But its always comforting to hear, "Sorry...".


I'll study post #150...

I can't tell you which single thing, if any single thing, took care of the hop...
Because I did it all in one shot.
My guess is ALL of it was necessary.

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Old 12-28-2012, 01:28 PM   #225
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Will hpi come out with a sprint3 ???
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